AndyW

Yes I’m still using that Halfords car cover. Into its 3rd year now, but it is showing signs of deterioration. It’s not fully waterproof now as I notice water on the bonnet after taking the cover off after heavy rain. The material seems fine, not flaking like some others I’ve had, the seams are still intact, and it hasn’t cracked or torn, so not sure where the water is getting in. I do notice the cover seems to have stretched a bit over 3 years. It now drapes on the ground at the sides which it never used to. For the price it’s lasted well. I’d like to see how a Stormforce cover at twice the price would do.

I've just taken the prop out of my Superspec (similar to a 2B). I don't think I could cut a hole in the floor panel that Derek has marked, as there is a large (6"x2") L shaped angle iron crossing the whole width of the car in that area. The seats, seat belts, and handbrake adjusters are all bolted through this for strength. Don't know if that's unique to the builder of my Superspec, or if they all have it? To remove my propshaft, I had to undo the 3 bolts on the gearbox UJ, and the 4 bolts on the diff UJ, pull the 2 sections apart at the spline joint, and remove the tube from the rear and the spline joint from the top of the tunnel. All to replace a missing rubber dust seal on the spline joint!

You meant this Wednesday 5th ?

As a 2B Superspec owner I can confirm the stainless tubular chassis is incredibly strong and to my knowledge no-one has ever had a problem with cracking of welds on the main structure. The only welds that are known to have cracked on a couple of cars, including mine, are the cross plate that holds the steering rack to the chassis tubes, and the L-shaped bracket for the Rover engine front engine mount. Both easy to spot and fix.

Yes add me please Peter

Supposed to be able to turn it with an oil filter type chain wrench if you have one. Needs about a 30 deg anticlockwise turn to unlock from the bayonet tabs.

Thanks Chris, yes I’m aware of those previous issues. The Superspec steering shaft was made by RH to fit between the Escort Mk1/2 rack and the Mondeo column, with 9/16 x36 splines at the bottom and Ford triangle at the top. It’s 875mm long and spares are no longer available, but I can get a 250mm shaft with splines from CBS. I’ve already got a replacement UJ, so now need to get the old shaft cut down and the short end welded on together with a strengthening tube. There’s lots of conflicting information on the internet! Some say steering columns shouldn’t be repaired or welded and others give differing methods, roll pins, bolts, plug welds etc. Difficult to know what’s right and wrong sometimes!

Richy, did you mean cut my existing shaft and weld a new splined shaft on the end? Or weld a new UJ directly onto the worn splines of my shaft? And wouldn’t the heat cause damage to the UJ bearings?

That would be my preference Richy. I've searched and no-one sells splined shafts as long as the 875mm needed for the Superspec, so I would have to cut it and weld a new short spline length onto my shaft, and probably weld a sleeve over as well. Trying to find someone locally that is willing to do that sort of welding is proving difficult. Companies I've found so far only do car body repairs, panel fabrication, or large scale industrial stuff. I'm still trying to track down a proper engineering company that could handle one-off work.

Good suggestions thanks. I did think about getting a pressed steel UJ as less rigid. Would giive better clamping especially if I also used a larger high tensile bolt. As you can see, the splines on the inner end of the shaft are well worn, but I might also be able to cut them a bit deeper with a triangular file to help the UJ grip.

Wonder how strong that stuff is and whether it can really remake splines? I’m not sure I want to risk my safety with the steering failing while driving. I think I’d rather have a mechanical fix with a new splined shaft.

Thanks Steve. Looks interesting. I hadn't thought of using a compound to fill the gap. Looks expensive though and only available in US.

Does anyone know where I can get a steering shaft to fit a RH Superspec? Or maybe one from a 2B would also fit. I’ve had to replace the lower universal joint on the Escort steering rack, but the new forged UJ won’t clamp tight enough on the original splined steering shaft. Looks like the splines are too worn (or not cut well in the first place). The shaft and UJ are both supposed to be 9/16” but it’s a very loose fit and rotates easily. I’ve tried to close the pinch gap on the new UJ in a vise, but the forged steel is just too hard, and I’ve stripped one high tensile bolt trying to get it clamped tightly. The shaft is 880 or maybe 900 mm long (can’t measure it accurately in the car), 5/8” diameter, with 9/16” x 36 splines and bolt groove machined on one end, and cut to a V shape on the other end. Top end fits into a V-clamp on the steering column UJ above the pedals. Alternatively is there any engineering method of “packing out” splines to fill the gap and enabling the UJ to clamp tightly? Any other ideas? I don’t have any welding options. Cheers Andy

Woolies have a huge range of materials and trims. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

Thanks everyone for making it another fantastic weekend. Great weather, some cracking roads to drive on the Saturday afternoon run, good company and perfect food and hospitality from Craig and his family. Here's to the next one.

Yes please for me Peter. Always a great show to look around.

I replaced both seized rear cylinders on the Sierra drums on my Superspec a couple of years ago. Without even knowing any specs my local motor parts supplier provided them off the shelf. Apec BCY1210 labelled to fit Ford Consul, Cortina, Escort, Focus, Granada, Orion, Sierra & LR Freelander. They don’t mention a size but I believe they are 20.6 mm bore.

Yes please. Add me to the list.

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I bought my Lucas wiper motor used off eBay, but both SVC and Car Builder Solutions do a complete kit new for about £160 +vat. Comes with the motor, mounting strap, bundy tubes and 2 wheel box gears with wiper spindles. You can choose different gearing to get the correct sweep angle.

Which wiper motor do you have? The Superspec was supplied with a Sierra motor with cut and modified linkage rods. As this is quite bulky behind the dashboard lots of people fitted the Lucas 14W wiper motor instead. This is quite compact and simple with a push-pull cable drive to the wiper axle boxes. I can’t help if you have the Sierra motor, as I fitted the Lucas motor to my Superspec. Parts can be obtained from SVC and they have the 5 pin connector available… https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/wiper-motor-connector-kit/ and a wiring diagram is at https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/wiper-systems/ Let me know if you need more help.

When I fitted the Lucas Mini wiper motor to my Superspec (similar to 2B) I mounted it on the inside of the firewall in the passenger footwell. Used 2 short bolts to hold the U bracket securely to the firewall. It’s at 45degrees so the drive tube curves smoothly up to the spindle gearbox on the scuttle. Has been secure and worked fine for the last 4 years.

I’ve always found Woolies good for all trim materials https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

I corner weighted my RH Superspec (similar to a 2B) last year, mainly to sort out the handling and ride height. I found the car weighed 814 kg including approx half a tank of fuel and the spare wheel, but without driver or anything in the boot. I'm not saying what it weighed fully laden and with me in the driver's seat!