alanrichey

85C is a reasonable., although with 80C generally accepted as the minimum I like to run a bit hotter than that. Like you, when the car is stationary in traffic with the fan on my car struggles not to overheat. One thing I didn't mention is I upped the pressure cap on the expansion bottle from 13psi to 21psi thereby allowing the coolant to run a greater pressure, hence higher boiling point. However, I can't really compare your car to mine, as yours is turbo with the intercooler, and if you have a heater fitted that is also non-standard for the Superspec. As to replacing the radiator, I find the SD1 one is OK, with the severe mounting angle offset by the large surface area. As you mostly suffer at low speed you might consider a more powerful fan as the one that came with the kit is very cheap & cheerful.

Has the car actually been overheating ? Most Superspecs seem to run on the cool side, mainly because of the enormous SD1 radiator. I only managed to get mine up to a decent temperature by blanking off part of the grill.

Be interested to hear how you get on, but are you going to run into problems because the Rover T16 is designed to run with a pressurised cooling system ? Like you I have always found the top hose to be empty when the engine is cold, but it hasn't had any effect on the cooling system and fills up when the engine is hot. My Superspec happily runs at 90-93C and I haven't had to top up the expansion bottle for over a year.

I think Geordie is a bit confused here. The Throttle Position Sensor is sensed by the ECU but that is for general use right across the rev range. The Idle system in the MEMS ECU is a completely separate set of parameters. It is incredibly complicated and the ECU actually tracks 6 different parameters: Idle switch Idle Set Point Idle Hot Idle Error Idle Base Position IAC Position I have yet to find anyone (apart from the Rover engineers who designed it) who actually understands what all these do and how the idle is affected. Even all the documentation we have on the MEMS is a bit vague. What I do know is that when you shut down the engine the ECU runs on for about 10 seconds. During that time it resets the stepper motor to the proper position for starting and then idling then continually adjusts the stepper motor based on engine temperature. So if the different ECU is not carrying out that action as well, it might explain the low idle. I suggest you PM Jeremy Richardson (jmspec), as he is the only other person I know who has used a different ECU on a turbo Rover T16. He might be able to advise you on the wiring. Al

Which engine do you have ? If it's the standard Rover T16 that is rated at 136 bhp for the normally aspirated version and 200 bhp for the turbo, so you are definitely in the ball park. Interested to see you have a proper ECU fitted. Like Geordie I still have the non-programmable MEMS 1.6 ECU fitted and I suspect the engine might have been tuned down a bit when they changed the software to disable the immobiliser. I also suspect they tweaked the idle speed as we all seem to idle about 950-1000 rpm whereas the T16 is supposed to idle at 850 rpm. No idea why they would do that. Also glad to get confirmation that blocking off one of the exhaust outlets helps the system. I just had a feeling in the water that mine ran a lot better with a bung in (Update: it blew out yesterday so I have to get a new one ). To every one's surprise, unlike the last 5 MOTs where the emissions were marginal, my car sailed through the emissions test at last MOT. I had run through a bottle of injector cleaner and the day before the MOT I did a 40 min run using just 3rd gear and keeping the RPM above 4000. Might be a coincidence but I will do the same for the next one. Can't hear the clunk on the video but Geordie's suggestion on the UV joints is a good one. Like him, I find it incredibly difficult to grease the front one as you have to go from the top of the tunnel around the gear change. A job I have now delegated to my friendly mechanic I also have a small amount of play in the transmission somewhere, maybe 5-10 degs of rear wheel rotation when I have her on axle stands. But it's been like that for 23,000 miles so I don't let it worry me.

Whatever the official gear (it came with the kit) is made from. Vinyl ? Plastic ?

My Robin Hood wet weather roof has spent 99.9% of it's 12-year life scrunched up on the back of the car (see picture on the right of my signature). Put it up today to check and apart from needing the perspex windows cleaned it is still in remarkably good condition. But I did wonder if I should be treating it with something to ensure it remains relatively supple and doesn't crack ? (It is stored in a garage so rarely sees the sun).

3mm Been like that for 8 years. Excuse the dirt, just been out for a long run. Glorious.

Mine is vinyl covered MDF I actually added some foam as well as I prefer a thicker profile to rest my elbow on.

Looks nice. Be interested to see how she now performs at the emissions test.

OK, a few points first: 1. Your statement that the sensor is reading something is not correct. When you start the engine the ECU puts a voltage of 0.435 V across the sensor so that it subsequently swings between 0.1V and 0.9V to signify lean and rich mixtures. So what you are seeing is the sensor NOT reading anything. 2. it's no surprise that the car is running OK. The car will run perfectly with a failed sensor, in fact it will run better without a sensor than with a working sensor because the Rover engineers set the default mixture to slightly rich if there is no reading from the sensor. The downside is that will fail any emissions test. 3. Once the engine starts the ECU gives the sensor anywhere between 1:00 min and 2:00 mins to start working. If it doesn't get a signal by then it enters the 'limp home' mode and uses the default settings. 4. I need to see your log file to check, but if it never starts to work then either the sensor is not working or the wiring has failed. If, however it stutters (see picture) then it could be interference, you may have disturbed the wiring while fitting the new exhaust. I had similar readings until I replaced the lambda signal wire (between the lambda sensor and the loom up around the alternator/water pump with shielded cable, making sure it was earthed at only one end. Can you send me the logfile ? Al

I could not reach all the electrics mounted on the firewall on the passenger side, so I went for a more flexible solution. I removed all of the dash but left about 3/4" all round the scuttle. I then built 3 sections out of MDF, put some captive bolts on to go through holes in the remaining metal rim and then covered them with vinyl. The centre panel is solidly mounted and the side panels are just push fits. In that way I can just take out either of the 2 side panels if I need to access the electrics or the brake system or the back of the instrument panel.

+1 for Showroom Shine (from Greased Lightning) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Greased-Lightning-Showroom-Waterless-Polish/dp/B006MDJM0I/ref=asc_df_B006MDJM0I/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310744208542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=636147846911812438&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006745&hvtargid=pla-566103496318&psc=1

I was also unable to find a set of blades with that fitment to the arm. I eventually managed to find a set I could attach with the 2 screws but I had to grind off the side bars as they were too narrow to fit over the spade. So I think you will have to do some surgery whatever you get. I actually managed to fit 10" ones as well, not a lot of clearance but a much better sweep than the previous 7" ones.

Just for interest, I found that when I added a loud buzzer and a high intensity LED light to my system (I don’t have a self cancel and was forever leaving an indicator on) then, because of the extra current drain, the normal diagnosis of indicator frequency doubling if a bulb failed, didn’t work anymore. So I have to regularly check they are still working while in the garage.