alanrichey

Beautiful day for a run out and picnic. Just a select few, with even the cars doing social distancing Thinking of doing it again on Thursday, one slot still available.

Had a practice run to Burghley last week which worked out well so having the second meet tomorrow. Again, 12:00 at Burghley House for a lunchtime picnic. Weather looking perfect. So far we have 4 attendees so still have 2 spaces left if anyone wants to come along and join us.

Now we are released back into the community, time to start getting together again. I'm going to run at least a couple of my usual picnic lunches either at Burghley House, Rutland Water or one of the local County Parks. Obviously limited to 6 people, so if anyone wants to come let me know your availability and if you will be accompanied and I will try to work out a programme.

I think actually have a slightly different wiring setup to Andy so I'll let him comment on his. As I see it, on his diagram he has both the signal & earth (Black/Grey) inside a shield. I actually have them totally separate and keep them physically apart, and in turn physically separate from the heater wires. So only the signal wire is a shielded cable and the shielding is earthed to the chassis at the Lambda end and NOT connected at the loom end. I suspect both methods are OK, but all I can say is mine works

As have I

I can't do one close to the pump, it is mainly within the engine block. But it makes sense to put one at the point where I disconnect the hose at the top of the radiator. Would be easier to bleed the system regularly,

Sorry, don't understand the question.

Just to close off this thread, the problem has gone away, but I have little or no idea what caused it in the first place. I checked all the component parts and everything was working as advertised, but still no apparent circulation. So I took some hoses off and reverse flushed the whole system. But nothing came out that might have caused a blockage, every part of the system was clear. I then refilled the system, but using a slightly different method than before, by removing the pipe that goes from the original heater feed to the top centre of the radiator (A Superspec feature , and the

I have cut mine so they fold horizontally along the bottom of the clear Perspex. That way they fit behind the seats.

Some people I know forget to take photos of the parts that won’t be accessible at the IVA. Lower seat belts mounting spring to mind.

Like Kevin I cut my vent holes with an angle grinder and a 1mm disc. Very straightforward.

The Superspec has 2 independent temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The ECU feed gives me an exact temperature reading, and over the last few years I have been able to use that to calibrate the gauge. Before this event I could see that the fan switched on at 95C, which equates to the ‘O’ of the word NORMAL on the gauge. So these 3 independent sources give me a very good handle on how the cooling system I’d doing.

Trouble is I can’t guarantee the water pump has failed. As you know, on our cars the belt pulley drives the power steering pump which then drives the water pump. So the problem could be anywhere in the train. When it warms up a bit I will be investigating. I’m hopeful it isn’t the head gasket, as there is no loss of coolant and the oil is still clear.

Always a possibility in the weird Superspec cooling system design, but I did everything to get rid of any air. And this was a sudden occurrence after 2 years of working perfectly, so I think it's safe to say something has broken.

Thanks for that. No heater fitted so that isn't a problem.