alanrichey

Vinyl covered MDF

Knowing the work you have put into the build and seeing the car a couple of times during the build I would expect it to sail through. Best of luck. (Mine was also SVAd through GBS)

Minor point, but the 'Load More Activity' button appears even if there is nothing left to load, i.e. if you are looking at all unread messages and only one is displayed. Can it be greyed out/removed if there is nothing left to display ?

Looks fine for me now, thanks

Desktop and 1600 x 900 (Default for most 17" laptops I think ?)

I'm getting an overlap of the title and my details in top right corner. This is in Firefox and Chrome, it is OK in EDGE,

The latter. I normally have my iPhone mounted with a Satnav app running for speed limits. I must admit it also has the drawback that there is no built in odometer.

I fitted one of these (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Digital-GPS-Speedometer-HUD-Head-Up-Display-Overspeed-Warning-UK/153123570619) over a year ago as a temporary fix when my speedo cable broke. The sensor is built in, it just needs a 12V supply. It's still going strong over a year later (and 2 MOTs) and I love it. Best £18 I ever spent.

No, at idle both the rev counter and the logging software read 1000 rpm. Are you saying there is a 1000 rpm difference ?

Fit wind deflectors. No more cold elbow and in fact I never use the doors any more either.

Always happy to get log files

Ok, got the file thanks. It does have some odd things in it though. We can see from the trace that the engine stops running at 2:41 and the ECU stops at 3:20. We can see that 2:38 you have the throttle wide open trying to keep the engine running, but the RPM drops to zero 3 seconds later. 1. There is something wrong with the alternator. All of my logs (and AndyW's) we get a fixed voltage around 13.7V +/- 0.1V until the engine stops, at which point it drops down to 12.6V, the sign of a charged battery. Yours looks very poor, starts at 13.1V dropping to 12.4V before stabilising at 13.0V. But at 2:25, 16 seconds before the engine stops, something very weird happens, the voltage starts to drop and it is at 12.4V when the engine stops but continues down to 11V before the ECU switches off. Very suspicious. 2. When the engine stops the stepper motor should reset the IAC (Inlet Air Control) position back to the idle. As you can see from the side-by-side pictures, mine does that but yours doesn't. Might explain your difficulty in restarting. However, this may be because you do not turn off the ignition so that might be a red herring. If you close the engine down normally do you hear the clicking of the stepper motor? 3. Not sure what to make of this one, but we have one of the parameters that we aren't sure of, but it has been suggested it is the fuel/air ratio. On my car that has never varied from 145 (14.5 to 1.0 ?) but as you can see from the picture, at the instant your problem occured it suddenly took a sharp dip. No idea what that means. 4. There is a byte that we refer to as Long Term Fuel Trim, although I am not personally convinced. The default setting is 128 (256/2). Mine used to be 119 but over the years has gradually drifted down to 112. I see yours is 108, which seems a bit low. And finally we have your Air Temp Sensor failure light. It seems a bit odd, as we can see that the ECU is actually registering a temperature. However, on all my log files the Intake Air Temperature and the Fuel Temperature generally follow each other. On yours they are radically different. In fact at the start of the run the Intake Air Temperature is showing as 95 deg C and then comes down instead of up. I think that is highly unlikely But I assume you see the same behaviour with the sensor disconnected ? Everything else seems OK. So not much help really although I find the alternator behaviour a bit worrying and I know you have had problems with it before. Send me any more log files you do so we can see if there is a pattern. Cheers Al

As Lewis suggested, I really would like to see a current MEMSAnalyser logfile that covers the engine stopping. Amongst other things it would show if the crank sensor or the coil was failing.

That's a bit of a nuclear option to solve your problem And as it all started when you rewired the car, I guess it's a fair assumption that this is a wiring problem. What does MEMSAnalyser show at the point where the engine stops ? And what does it show when you try and start it again ?

I had the identical situation where the smell was strongest in the tunnel. Turns out the connection between the red/yellow pipes that came from the tank and the much bigger green ones that went to the engine were faulty. There was no insert in the thinner pipe so tightening up the clips simply squashed them.