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owlman2222

RHOCaR Member
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    408
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owlman2222 last won the day on February 17 2016

owlman2222 had the most liked content!

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52 Excellent

About owlman2222

  • Rank
    southern love birds John and Chrissie
  • Birthday 11/08/1984

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    super spec 05 supercharged 2.0l zetec
  • Full name
    jonathan wright

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    warlingham, surrey
  1. Would require deep cycle batteries if you want them too last a long time, car batteries are designed to give a big instance load of current then be topped up, where you require long charge time and long current drain, as a short term solution a car battery would work. When setting up battery size, length of time lights will be on for X current draw off lights will = X, is dose not mean you need X as the battery size, X is your float value which is about 20% of the total battery (depends on batteries), so you had 2 amp draw on lights and you would have them on for 2 hours, you require 4 amps to run them, so not to destroy and shorten the life of you batteries you will need at least a 20amp battery. but this will only allow for 1 day, during the winter this would cause a problem as lack of light to charge the batteries, As I don't know your set you whether your using a gird tie system or a back feed system. deeming how much solar to point to the battery's depends of type and voltage arrangement of your solar set up but a good rule is 20% to 50% of the power of panels generated in winter time. If it was me and you had a 12v solar rig, I would point all of the solar panels at the batteries allowing you to use a smaller size battery then use a charger controller to divert the solar panels back into the house once the battery's are fully charged. This means you keep the battery's toped up and once there full it goes back into the set up you have at the moment.
  2. +1 for coolexerts just got my new rad from them, top quality rad with top customer service, and really quick turn arround of custom 70mm rad, they even waited for me to send them my fan so they could fit it where i wanted it on brackets they made.
  3. got a wining twin screw IHI or if you want to join me i have a spare AMG C32 and charger cooler that i am bolting to mine :crazy:
  4. yep 200v or 400v dont know how the power feed and dro are wired but normally they are all connected into the termanal box on the side wich will then feed the power feed and dro and motor. then adjustments in the motor termanal box to alow for 400v or 200v. when you get the serial number of the machine will be able to get wiring dirgrams. depends if you want a motor spinning a generator in the cornor to create 415v, yes more then 1 device can be installed to a rotary but there is no controll over the output. ditigal can only really have one machine conected to it as you set it up to that machine, but you have a lot more control over that machine.plus are more energy efficant.
  5. Rich need to know more about the machine before we can tell you what 3 phase converter to get, as said above most 3 phase is 415v but you can get several other voltage specs. most new 3 phase motors will run on 415 or 240v 3 phase. if memory serves me corectly, will have to check when i am at work tonight but the conector box to the motor needs 6 termals in it, if you only have 3 termals its a 415v motor only. if you have 6 termals in the termanator box the converter above will work. when looking at convertors make sure it has a soft start, this will start up the motor in a way to limit in-rush current, so you dont get a spike of current and keep blowing breakers and a instance high torque curve on the belt and bearings. other option is to fit a single phase motor so theres no need to get a 3 phase convertor.
  6. I don't get theses calls no more, might have something to do with a virus being infected on there computer. I use team viewer all the time, great program for helping mates outs from my own home.
  7. The screwdriver type test light will only light up when it is put onto the positive leg, the reason why its lighting up in the negative leg is because there is no negative supply and you are getting the positive through the light bulb, take the light bulb out and the screwdriver light will go out, Please do me a favour and throw that screwdriver away and buy a volt meter don't need to get an expensive one, The reason I say that is, if the screwdriver creates a fault internally from misuse ( hit with hammer or thrown into tool box) you could be on the end of a nice shock. I suspect you have got a broken core on the negative, look around where the lights are fitted for brittle or hard to bend wiring caused from the heat off the lights. If you use a muilt meter you will probable see 40 to 50 volts indicating a loss of one of the legs negative or positive. If you are unsure get a sparky in.
  8. owlman2222

    Joining Wires

    Good qualitly through crimps, that are see through so you can see wire position in the crimp, crimped with corect crimping tool not a universal, then heat srink with corect size heat srink, this alows for the wire to be left straight without any bends. Best pratics it not to crimp or solder but to have continus wire. Bomb crimps are designed to insolate a cable core that can not be removed, not to joint 2 wires togesther.
  9. owlman2222

    House Woes

    angle grinder every time, you can get some lovely wavy cuts, so the bonding grips it better, well that's my excuse
  10. owlman2222

    House Woes

    going through the same problem in my house at the mo, having to plaster every room. on the plus side it comes off nice and easy.
  11. If you want someone to cast an eye over one you think your going to buy just drop us a message.
  12. give these guys a ring they sorted mine but i am using emerald http://www.austec.co.uk/ They did a mates running bike carbs but cant remeber managment, think it was megajolt
  13. If your looking for big power expect to spend £££ if you want to turn a N/A to supercharger or turbo. if supercharging you will need either a twin screw or centrifugal, eaton cant deliver big boost without lots of heat. theres load of bolt on part for turboing but will still cost big money if your looking for big BHP Far easier and cheeper root would be put a cossy lump or vauxhaul turbo lump in from the start and tune that from there. unless you want a V8 then bolt a supercharger to it and go buy alot of underwear I wont add, what mine has cost to supercharge my zetec, but its thousdands, i am after 350 to 400bhp its never the big parts that seam to cost the money its all the little extras you need that just add up to alot. as said above speak to richard (red seven enginnering) or PM me and i will list eveything i have done (minius the 4 pot water feature)
  14. Alan I will be going in tin top if you want me to take anything or if anyone wants me to pick up anything on the way up. See you all there jon
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