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Robbie 2B

RHOCaR Member
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About Robbie 2B

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 10/28/1954

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B wishbones
  • Full name
    Robbie Sillars

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Budleigh Salterton, Devon

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  1. Hi to all, its been a while since my last post. Lock-down modification have started with gearbox swap underway. Due to the location of the Duratec engine being fixed, installing a Mazda MX5 NC (N7) gearbox puts the gear lever location in line with the dash panel. The Mazda MX5 NB gearbox positions the gear lever correctly as the lever is an extra 90 mm away from the bell housing flange. Has anyone changed over the tail part of the gearbox between a NC and NB gearbox or know if it is possible? Any advice gratefully received. Many thanks in advance Robbie
  2. Tim Many thanks for the wishbone and cups of tea. Wire brush and paint now needed. You have got me thinking - supercharged Duratec? Having found this it looks interesting. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=156816 Thanks again Robbie
  3. Tim Many thanks for the reply - Postage problem noted. Any chance of collecting one from Duxford? By car, this Sunday is good for me. After work on a weekday I could make it by train, is Whittlesford Parkway near? PM me details of the best time to suit you Many thanks Robbie
  4. I did a Duratec convesion on my 2B a couple of years ago. Have kept the Ford Mondeo set up with standard inlet manifold Ford 'Blackrock' ECU. Kept the Type 9 gearbox but changed to a hydraulic clutch. Had to mod the prop' shaft and gearlever linkage but engine fits within the bull bar provided you use a shorten sump. If you want a bit more info or photos pm me your email. Good luck Robbie
  5. Alan Did you ever get a driver's side wishbone? I am after the passenger side one for my 2B. If Tim or Rob have come across them then I would be interested Tokens for beer and postage readily available. Thanks for looking Robbie
  6. Thanks to Al Milton replacement glass collected and ready to be installed! Hope that the bucket and spade run went well. Thanks again Robbie
  7. Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that a laminate replacement is the preferred option. Al, if you have an original one going spare how much do you want for it? At least I can use this as a template. Please sent me a PM. Thanks again. Robbie
  8. I am after a windscreen glass for my 2B after original one shattered today. If you have one can you please confirm cost and location to allow collection. Many thanks Robbie
  9. Thanks for the posts. Concur with the thinking about using the original sensor. The problem is with how will the sensor picking up or generate a suitable signal? Mk3 Mondeo's use the transverse 75 gearbox with the sensor pick up wheel located on the differential output shaft. A Type 9 gearbox does not have this ability nor a location for the sensor. The option of fixing a suitable crenelated wheel to a drive shaft and fixing the sensor to the differential chassis housing would appear to be the best mechanical option. My knowledge of electronics is based around twin valve super-het
  10. Simon Thanks for the reply. The original Mondeo VSS is a pulse type, a serrated disc on the drive shaft activates a sensor, which is magnetised, fitted through the differential casing. The one fitted is from a Ford Ka which is a rotating magnet driven by the Type 9 gearbox speedo drive, photos attached. The possibility of fitting an ABS sensor to the rear wheels is the next option to explore if a sensor driven from the gearbox is not possible. Where any Sierra's fitted with rear drums and ABS? Any other options to explore? Robbie
  11. Finally got the car back on the road with the Duratec HE just about fettled. One of the problems still to overcome is that the speedo is indicating a little on the low side. As I have used the Mondeo instrument cluster the speedo requires a signal from a vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I have used a sensor from a Ford Ka and fitted this to the Type 9 gearbox using an adapter. The signal from the sensor goes via the ECU to the speedo. The system works fine but an indicated 15 mph is way over 30 mph. Looking at pass posts there was a discussion that a 'sequencer' was available which ca
  12. Longborder Thanks for the reply. One added advantage of using the Ford PCM is that I have also wired in the OBD II port so can plug in a ELM 327 cable and using a laptop get a print out and reset any faults as well as reseting the MIL light. Will post some photos if interested. Robbie
  13. Well I said I would keep you posted. I know its been a few weeks since my last post but I have been busy with the Ford TIS, solder iron and shrink sleeve and its paid off - its finally runs!!! After connecting up the PCM (ECU), instrument cluster (IC) and generic control module (GCM) the PATS lights finally went out and it started first time! Next job is to weed out all the unrequired interconnects to see what is actually needed and what can be cropped. There are a few items which now need to be dealt with such as the door ajar light showing on the IC, where to locate the drive
  14. Oliver Its not at the moment. The mechanical aspects are a doddle the electrics, using the original Ford loom, inlet manifold sensors and ECU is a nightmare. I have now tried another ECU (same code and part number), key and transceiver and still no joy. The dreaded 2.2 flash is still happening. If you go for the conversion it would be easier to go down the route of throttle bodies, return fuel rail and after market ECU. I have ordered a diagnostic cable so will try and cobble together a 16 pin ISO plug to see if their are any fault codes recorded in the original ECU. The next
  15. The conversion is completed but I am having no joy getting the thing to run. Fuel pump is operating, priming the fuel rail and stopping. All relays are energising but the engine will not turm over. All connects have been checked and double checked and the starter motor works fine when fed directly from the batery. It seems that the ECU (Central Junction Box) does not appear to be giving the correct signals. After the rapid LED flashes a PATS fault of 2 times 2 flashes is being indicated through the attached LED. Its a long shot, but does anyone know what a 2.2 fault means on a Mk 3
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