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agent_zed last won the day on October 27 2018

agent_zed had the most liked content!

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About agent_zed

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    Wheely good builder!

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    2B with double wishbones
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    forest of dean

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  1. something i planned on doing when i finally get around to putting mine on was adding a bracket from the bike carbs to the top of the rocker cover. You can clearly see on your pic the threaded hole that was originally used for the sierra air box on the rocker cover if i remember correctly, which can secure one end with the other onto one of the screws on the carb. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but i figure it should stop the carbs bouncing up and down only on the joining hoses. Again i haven't actually got it on yet but i bought some marine reinforced rubber hose that is fuel rat
  2. agent_zed

    viscous fan

    Yeah that's what i figured so i've just left it, been like it since 2007 so unlikely to change it anytime soon
  3. thanks all. I'm still not sure. I've had a quick search for mx5 ones from the mk2.5 I think it is, but can't see any that are that good at the moment so will just hold out until i find some that i really want. Will still look at other tin top seats to see what will fit in the meantime as might come across something good, as said above i also prefer comfort over style in most cases. The sierra seats were great although not the best looking. You sank into them so held me pretty well with the four points. Want something a bit more sporty/stylish this time though.
  4. agent_zed

    viscous fan

    I'm running a 1.6 with the coolman radiator and an electric fan in front of the rad. (no viscous fan) and never had a problem with cooling. What is suprising is that i removed the plastic cowling from the fan and made a frame that the fan sits in instead so it looks a bit like it floating but doesn't seem to have effected the cooling in any way. The only problem i get is that i put the thermo switch into the end of the thermostat housing so when i stop the residual heat from the engine sometimes turns it on. Never really caused an issue it just starts up as i walk away. I also have a
  5. Hi, I am assuming this is the bar that is affectionately called the 'plough bar' as it generally hits things due to it's proximity to the road. I think some people have removed it altogether and i think some have even made it removable, which can be useful for sump removal. If everything is that far out you might need some jigging to pull the chassis back inline depending on how it's bent and what it has pushed. Do you have a shortened sump? I'm assuming its a pinto engine. The bar doesn't need to be as low as it is with a shortened sump. i've been contemplating removing or repo
  6. Hi, my sierra seats of 27years old have finally given up (don't make things to last do they ) and i've been looking at seat options. I could go the tried and tested mx5 route etc but those seats are perhaps a bit old now so was looking on ebay at various tintop seats and two that have caught my eye are the renault clio 2014+ and the aygo 2015+ seats I wonder if the clio seats are too wide that base though eg this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-MK4-FRONT-DRIVER-SEAT-CLOTH-2013-2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-Complete/264707573877?hash=item3da1cd0875:g:bKsAAOSwhMFen2hH or t
  7. As you say it's likely your new car has fly by wire so it's not got that mechanical feel. Also brakes on a new car are going to be running ABS so can be significantly sharper. Do you run a servo? I've got one on my 2b and it does make the brakes sharp but i have to be careful as doesn't take much to lock them. One of the things i've read (and hopefully not talking nonsense) is that the accelerator on RWD cars tends to be a longer movement. The reason being that an accidental slip of the throttle will potentially result in a spin. If you have a longer movement you reduce that risk. I've ce
  8. agent_zed

    Vin Plate

    When i SVA'd my 2b i made a vin plate out of ally and stamped the numbers myself. The only problem was that there also needed to be a non-removeable vin stamped somewhere. That might have been dvla requiring that though as i remember getting my local garage to sign a paper stating it had been done. I stamped a piece of stainless and welded it to the floor pan.
  9. agent_zed


    many years ago when i first built my 2b i put 26-27psi in and it felt like i was on a bouncy castle. I run at about 20psi now on the rainsport 3's although haven't driven it in such a long time i couldnt tell you much at the moment. I did have cheap V treads when i got the alloys and they were rubbish compared to the rainsports. Once drove home in the rain on the V's and was so unstable on standing water. I don't drive particularly fast (1.6 pinto here too ) but with such light cars i want to be able to cut through any standing water without aquaplaning. I've been looking on blackcircles
  10. got age related plate back in 2007. Don't know how much has changed since then though. Was relatively easy although a bit nerve racking as they were checking over the car and asking which bits came from where etc. I thought they weren't going to give it me and was surprised when they said it was fine. Again things might have changed but this seems to be really variable over the years. I didn't get 3 years and had to Mot after first year. Others get 3 years?! I didn't do an mot before SVA either which triggers the system sometimes. Randomly some people have been given a brand new plate
  11. well i got it done (was also doing 3 knobs which took some time). I'm quite pleased with the results. Was a fun little project and learnt a few bits. Thanks for the heads up about using a mandrel. I cut a piece for it to sit on when i turned it around to do the final angle cut on the end. Gotta make another one for my other guitar now
  12. cool, always happy to recieve advice on health and safety. I'd rather be aware of it. I've not really been given much of a guidance on the machines to be honest. I'm just careful about what i do as i know the machine is just looking for a reason to get me! A few things i do to minimise risk. I take small cuts, turn the chuck by hand before turning on to check nothing is going to bind, check where the tool is going to finish and that the holder etc isn't going to crash into the chuck, keep my hand on the lever for autofeed. I did use a bit of emery the other day but i have a block of
  13. oh also if you buy aftermarket alloys you may need spigot rings. Basically aftermarket wheels tend to have an oversized hole for the hub part and then you fit a spigot ring to fit your specific car. I can't remember off the top of my head the sierra ID but you just need to measure the round stickig out hub part and then the size hole in the alloy. You then buy 4 rings with the id of the car and od of the wheel. They just clip into the wheel to centralise them when fitting. I bought wheels with multifit which have 8 holes and 2 different PCDs. I had to use the smaller holes which require a
  14. as long as you have the correct PCD of 108 for ford (assuming you have 4 stud ford hubs) and the correct ET (or can adjust wings etc to cover the tyres) then there are loads of wheels you can choose depending on your style. The ET will determine how far out or in the wheel sits. I think there were 2 'standard' sizes, or at least there were 2 wing stays available on gbs. That being ET15 and ET38 . What do you have at the moment? The other thing will be wheel diameter. Again will come down to preference but 15 seems to be pretty common and good range of tyres in this size and pretty ch
  15. according to the sierra haynes manual the black+blue (sw-bl) is coming from the fuse box then to the switch then out on the black(sw) which runs to the light cluster. easy enough to test if it's open/closed with a multimeter set to continuity. just put it in and out of reverse. I can take a pic of the diagram if that helps
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