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agent_zed

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agent_zed last won the day on October 27 2018

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About agent_zed

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B with double wishbones
  • Full name
    Ryan

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  • Website URL
    http://www.outofthesundesigns.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    forest of dean

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  1. got age related plate back in 2007. Don't know how much has changed since then though. Was relatively easy although a bit nerve racking as they were checking over the car and asking which bits came from where etc. I thought they weren't going to give it me and was surprised when they said it was fine. Again things might have changed but this seems to be really variable over the years. I didn't get 3 years and had to Mot after first year. Others get 3 years?! I didn't do an mot before SVA either which triggers the system sometimes. Randomly some people have been given a brand new plate rather than age related, perhaps a trainee was doing the registering that day.
  2. well i got it done (was also doing 3 knobs which took some time). I'm quite pleased with the results. Was a fun little project and learnt a few bits. Thanks for the heads up about using a mandrel. I cut a piece for it to sit on when i turned it around to do the final angle cut on the end. Gotta make another one for my other guitar now
  3. cool, always happy to recieve advice on health and safety. I'd rather be aware of it. I've not really been given much of a guidance on the machines to be honest. I'm just careful about what i do as i know the machine is just looking for a reason to get me! A few things i do to minimise risk. I take small cuts, turn the chuck by hand before turning on to check nothing is going to bind, check where the tool is going to finish and that the holder etc isn't going to crash into the chuck, keep my hand on the lever for autofeed. I did use a bit of emery the other day but i have a block of rubber i use as a sanding block which is underneith it so if it got pulled it it would just slip out of my hand. You say it needs to held in a jig? how would this work for rounding corners etc. Is this one of those health and safety things that isn't actually practical in use?
  4. oh also if you buy aftermarket alloys you may need spigot rings. Basically aftermarket wheels tend to have an oversized hole for the hub part and then you fit a spigot ring to fit your specific car. I can't remember off the top of my head the sierra ID but you just need to measure the round stickig out hub part and then the size hole in the alloy. You then buy 4 rings with the id of the car and od of the wheel. They just clip into the wheel to centralise them when fitting. I bought wheels with multifit which have 8 holes and 2 different PCDs. I had to use the smaller holes which require a special set of nuts called tuner nuts, which are thinner than standard wheel nuts as they have an internal star key to fit them.
  5. as long as you have the correct PCD of 108 for ford (assuming you have 4 stud ford hubs) and the correct ET (or can adjust wings etc to cover the tyres) then there are loads of wheels you can choose depending on your style. The ET will determine how far out or in the wheel sits. I think there were 2 'standard' sizes, or at least there were 2 wing stays available on gbs. That being ET15 and ET38 . What do you have at the moment? The other thing will be wheel diameter. Again will come down to preference but 15 seems to be pretty common and good range of tyres in this size and pretty cheap as a lot of the hot hatches had these back in the day. Haven't tried myself but i've heard 16s can be a bit harsh on these cars. Caterhams run anything down to a 13, which will give you quicker acceleration (depending on the tyre sidewall ratio). Also don't go too wide on the tyres (195s are enough) as they don't need it and you increase risk of aquaplaning and tramlining.
  6. according to the sierra haynes manual the black+blue (sw-bl) is coming from the fuse box then to the switch then out on the black(sw) which runs to the light cluster. easy enough to test if it's open/closed with a multimeter set to continuity. just put it in and out of reverse. I can take a pic of the diagram if that helps
  7. thanks. yeah a vid i watched said not to ever put your hand over the chuck and also not to have a sharp tang on the file (put a handle or something on it) in case it catches and comes back at you. Being a newbie I'm being over caution and taking my time which means my guitar parts which you could probably knock out in <30mins are taking me hours and hours
  8. I might be talking nonsense but i recall something about using different oil for gearbox and diff. I think hypoid is ok in diff but not in gearbox as it eats the copper on the syncros or something like that. hopefully someone will be able to clarify if i have the right end of the stick and if not at least its more of a reason to check the manual for the actual specs just in case I hate the smell of diff oil!
  9. cool thanks for that makes sense. I'm just going to have a round hole instead of the rectangular one as it'll be so much easier. because everything is metal i can just put a dob of glue stick on the end of the switch and heat everything with a soldering iron to get it on and off. (hopefully) really useful to learn about mandrels as didn't know that before. Think that will come in useful. Also wasn't really sure it using files etc was the done thing but watched a few videos last night so will give it a go. fingers crossed thanks
  10. Hi, not car related but been using a lathe over lunch in the school i work in (nice and quiet at the moment) and been making parts for my guitar i've built - 3 control knobs and 1 toggle switch. my question is how to turn the toggle switch. I was going to make it relatively standard shape but without the curves as i'm not a great machinist. It will be similar shape to this I'll have to do a round hole in the bottom so i was thinking i'd bore the hole first and then cut the angles. The trouble is when i cut it off it will leave a flat and i want it tapered at a slight angle. If i then turn it around to turn that face then the long tapered edges will be hard to hold in the chuck without it sliding out or damaging the aluminium. The only other thought was to drill the hole smaller than i need and tap it to put a small stud to use to hole it in the chuck. How would a professional do this? thanks Oh and car related i put the steering boss in the lathe and took off the flaking paint back to ally. Just finishing a few bits it missed as it isn't perfectly round and debating whether to polish it up and leave it ally
  11. agent_zed

    2B

    Is there a reason for wanting GRP? I know there is the potential for more shaped sides etc but if you are just flat panelling then metal is in many ways better. I'm not sure how much they have improved the flame retardation of modern grp but it can burn with sufficient heat input. Penetration from impacts is likely to be less with metal also. So for safety i'd go will metal. If you watch any of the american car shows they are the opposite and want 'steel bodies' on their hotrods and consider GRP to be undesirable. We brits seem to like it though and to be honest i would quite like a full grp shell for mine but for the above reasons i'm sticking with metal.
  12. on a practical note they don't look as if they have an angled mounting. Have you thought about how you will mount them so the lights are vertical (or thereabouts)?
  13. I've been doing all those little jobs i've been putting off. My indicator/dip stalk has been really sticky for ages so i finally got round to taking it off and stripping it and cleaning all the contacts and lubricating so it moves a bit easier now. also put the steering boss on a lathe the other day to clean it up as the paint was flaking and faded. annoyingly i've got a cold/flu type thing (really don't know if it is covid or not - probably not) so i am staying away from work at the moment so can't get to the lathe to finish it up. better safe than sorry. If you are really bored you could check all the electrical connections and bulb fittings as they tend to get slightly corroded over time.
  14. just about to fit a replacement ally overflow bottle. I splashed out on an ebay jobber and to be fair the welds are beautiful. Got replacement light shells as my originals have rusted. Replacement mirrors. respray the nose, bonnet, scuttle, arches... hmm pretty much everything minus the side panels repair/paint some rust on the chassis looking for new seats as the sierra ones are probably too worn now after 26years! Might re-do the dash. Want to experiment with a suede type material and along the tunnel. finish the bike carb manifold i've been making for 1 million years and finally get them fitted. Got a load of house projects to do also though. So will do a spot of plastering and some plumbing repairs i've been putting off. Oh also got to make an end vice and leg vice for my 'english' workbench i recently made. although just tidying the garage will take me til the summer :)
  15. A G-wiz ... I'd probably do dumb stuff like sleeper an old volvo estate or my peugeot 3008 mk1 which i know is a very odd choice but i like it and pretty much nobody has done that to my knowledge. Oh also re-do my 2b with all the modifications i've promised myself i'd do over the years.
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