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agent_zed last won the day on October 27 2018

agent_zed had the most liked content!

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    2B with double wishbones
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    forest of dean

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Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/5)



  1. Thanks both. Will be useful to have extra air at times and also be able to carry the light tank about for the odd need without having to cart my 50ltr compressor about.
  2. Just sanity checking but is there any reason why I shouldn't use my old 24ltr compressor tank as a reciever tank? I've taken off the motor (as the piston went) but I've left on the pressure release valves and gauge. I just need to get a fitting to block the inlet the compressor used and then it is a self contained unit. Can I then just fill using the standard outlet from my working compressor with a flexible hose? any reason I shouldn't do this? thanks
  3. When I built my tank I cut out the shaped hole from the sierra tank that the sender goes into. I then riveted and araldited (as its petrol proof) it to my tank so i could fit the sender unit in the same way it had fitted in the sierra tank, by just twisting and locking into place. Been like it for 10 years without a problem. Not sure how easy it would be to make the correct shaped hole to accept the sender but if you could the sender would then use the correct seating face and be easy to remove in the future as needed.
  4. as mentioned already, using a sealant/adhesive between panel and frame will add an extra barrier. In addition to this if you are riveting you should use stainless rivets rather than aluminium or the rivet may corrode where it contacts with the steel chassis.
  5. yeah that was a pain sorting that. Mine aren't perfect by any means but not too bad looking, i beat some aluminium into the right shape and covered with black leatherette. I'm lucky i had an old rollbar off a tractor with a nice curve that i could beat the ally around. The inner side is cut to allow it to curve as i couldn't get it to bend both inside and outside curves. I can get a picture if you want.
  6. If its the sierra pedal box (most likely it is) then there is a momentary switch on the brake pedal. It actually works backwards to most switches as when you press the pedal it comes off the switch and turns the brake lights on, depressing the switch turns them off. It just clips into the pedal box from memory so you can remove the switch without too much effort. I have a feeling mine got stuck in the past and i tinkered with it and it was all good again. most likely wd40'd it.
  7. Yeah as richyb66 says they get proper tight on there. I've done similar to above but with the wheel in place i push and pull on opposite sides to loosen it. I put mine on a lathe a couple of months back as the same as yours the paint was flaking. It's not perfect but i gave it a buff and left it as ally.
  8. agent_zed

    Gaz shocks

    Do you know the poundage?
  9. Cheaper DIY version of what Andi has linked to ... Small piece of perspex heated and folded in half so you can slip a thin piece of aluminium in between where you place your ticket. Ally has a tab so you can pull it out easily. 2 holes - 1 in each top corner through plastic and ally so you can put a cable lock (e.g https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-T1154-Hand-Tools-Transparent/dp/B06Y6H24GH/ref=asc_df_B06Y6H24GH/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=223170773229&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13162554426772147465&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007420&hvtargid=pla-422224529753&psc=1) through one and back through the other and around the steering wheel. Although don't most accept payment by phone and just have a list of number plates they check against these days?
  10. The 2b roof came with 2 bars. One hinges off the other. This means the roof is held off the rollbar as one is slightly in front and one is behind. Similar to the above but it avoids the roof touching the rollbar. I made my own with aluminium tube. Quite amazed i managed to bend it without kinking it. I bent it around a wooden former and i think i did the trick of filling the pipe with sand (packed tightly - hammer it down with a dowel).
  11. yeah i'd look at the relative thickness and construction of the original clutch fork as a starting point. From memory isn't it only pressed steel?
  12. adding to the above the other way of looking at it is to put in a lighter reliable engine and work/spend more on weight reduction and handling. Switching from the pinto to a zetec for example will drop 30-40kg as the pinto is a brute. Lighter seats, wheels, panelling etc etc will improve handling as well.
  13. You may want to factor in the exhaust as the pinto exits on the right hand side (drivers) where a lot of engines exit the other side. So that will be a fair bit of cost to replace. I think the duratec exits on the RHS but you'd need a bell housing assuming you have a type 9. The other option is going smaller and turbo charging. If you are under ~1500cc you will save £100 a year on tax which doesn't sound a lot unless you keep the car for a while. I've had mine for 13 years so would have saved over a grand in hindsight, or at least paid for the engine, if i'd put in a smaller engine at the start. The 1.4 punto turbo engine puts out 130bhp for example, although that would need a custom bell housing. But as an example it would be significantly lighter than the v6 just my random thoughts
  14. agent_zed

    Gaz shocks

    Hi, What version of the gaz shocks are these? I'm assuming standard steel bodied but I have gaz golds on the front which are ally. Are they adjustable damper? If you've got springs I might be interested in the 16's. Thanks
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