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agent_zed last won the day on October 27 2018

agent_zed had the most liked content!

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About agent_zed

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    Wheely good builder!

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    2B with double wishbones
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    forest of dean

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  1. just about to fit a replacement ally overflow bottle. I splashed out on an ebay jobber and to be fair the welds are beautiful. Got replacement light shells as my originals have rusted. Replacement mirrors. respray the nose, bonnet, scuttle, arches... hmm pretty much everything minus the side panels repair/paint some rust on the chassis looking for new seats as the sierra ones are probably too worn now after 26years! Might re-do the dash. Want to experiment with a suede type material and along the tunnel. finish the bike carb manifold i've been making for 1 million years and finally get them fitted. Got a load of house projects to do also though. So will do a spot of plastering and some plumbing repairs i've been putting off. Oh also got to make an end vice and leg vice for my 'english' workbench i recently made. although just tidying the garage will take me til the summer :)
  2. A G-wiz ... I'd probably do dumb stuff like sleeper an old volvo estate or my peugeot 3008 mk1 which i know is a very odd choice but i like it and pretty much nobody has done that to my knowledge. Oh also re-do my 2b with all the modifications i've promised myself i'd do over the years.
  3. you can just see the tube that goes up over the scuttle area. I don't think anything other than the 2b had this. One of the reasons i like the 2b as (i'm hoping) it gives more protection. It also has the 4 tubes welded to the top bar for the seatbelts like my chassis. I'd be interested to know how they have done the suspension as i've had a thought about doing it myself. One of the main problems i can see is how to bracket the top suspension mount as the centre of the wheel it is not inline with the rollover bar so it wouldn't line up. I'm not sure of the effects of moving the shock mounting point on the wishbone.
  4. agent_zed


    I made my tank out of stainless and used the original sierra fittings. For the filler hole i used the bit rubber grommit and for the sender i cut around the shaped hole from sierra tank and riveted and araldited it to my tank. The sender then fits exactly as it did in the sierra by turning and locking into place. Just remember to work out where the arm of the sender will sit in the tank and affix the shaped hole in the correct position. I used the RH filler neck but added an extension as my tank was just a bit lower and i wasn't convinced it went intot he tank far enough. I recently drilled a couple of holes near the top though as without these i couldn't fill the tank right to the top as the air couldn't escape from the top 2 inches. It's been like this for 10years without a problem (so far )
  5. When i built my 2b i welded the L shaped piece on rather than bolting. It's pretty solid when welded. If you've bashed it pretty hard you might want to also check the lower wishbone balljoint and consider replacing as a matter of course. Due to the design of the suspension this balljoint is taking enormous stress, there is the outside possibility that it could pop out especially if damaged, I have heard that has happened before to someone on here (can't remember who as a long time ago although i think that was due to wear. They are hard to remove though apparently. hope that helps
  6. I'd agree with the above drawing. As mentioned though make sure you have the correct length dipstick and tube as they could affect where the max mark is. I shortened my sump and didn't bother adding extra capacity and it's been fine for 10 years. I'm sure i read somewhere that the pinto can take a fair bit over the max line without a problem as the americans tended to overfill, but that could be complete nonsense. At the end of the day as long as the crank isn't hitting the oil and frothing it, keep the oil as high as you can. I can measure mine later if you want for comparison
  7. Depends on your setup. It'll be the coil that needs 12v not the distributor as such. My setup has the original electronic ignition which has a small module that I guess would need power and i also have a weber carb that has a fuel cut off solenoid on the carb that needs 12v. If you hve an electric fuel pump that would also need electric. Not sure if my autochoke would cause issues without 12v. I'd try and find the cause of the intermittant fault if i were you.
  8. To me ripping it all out because of a few loose connections might be a bit drastic at this stage. If it is all working when you jiggle the wires then it is just a likey a loose connection as mentioned above. If there is a big mess of wires just cut each one to the correct length and either put a new connector on it or resolder the orginal connector back on. once you are happy just re-wrap them all together neatly. This is how i did mine with the original sierra loom. There is still a bit more than is needed under the dash but it is pretty well sorted otherwise as everything fits into the standard ford stuff so the electronic ignition module just plugs in as normal and i don't have to worry about trying to get this or that to work on a different loom etc. You also have the advantage that the haynes manual has a fully colour coded schematic so if you really needed to you could get someone else to work on it. If that then still doesn't work pull it all out and replace with a new loom.
  9. it isn't a standard prop as the sierra had a 2 part setup but it is standard ford ends to fit the mt75 (I think this is the box superspecs used) to ford diff. Unless gbs do one you wont find an off the shelf one so you'll have to get one made up. It'll no doubt be better quality than the rhe one anyway.
  10. awesome! nice to see it laying waste to a fair few bigger cars. Always nice to see how many people give these cars a look. I've driven down a road in mine behind a ferrari and watched the people on the street giving my car more of a look (I assume it was positive and not because something was hanging off ). I find people tend to let me out of junctions a lot in my 2b. I think people have respect for '7's as it's such a classic shape rather than just assuming it is someone with loads of money in a flashy supercar.
  11. the later chassis has a tapered rollbar like this (not my pic). It also has a bigger engine bay than the older chassis, but it doesn't have the hoop up over the scuttle which i like as i think it adds strength in that area (could be completely wrong). be careful you don't have insurance problems if you swap the chassis. It's unlikely they would know but if your car was registered before the later chassis was in production it might cause an issue if they realise. In terms of whether it is better or not. It's pretty much the same in terms of suspension (unless you have the sliding pillar) so not really much need to change unless you want a bigger engine. If it was me i'd just chop about what you have. The sump is always low which needs a lowered sump (if yours isn't chopped) and the bar in front of that (the plough bar) could be cut and bent and rewelded at a higher level. You could also look at changing the mounting points for the front upper suspension moving the mounting down to create better geometry and moving it rearward to get more caster. At the rear you could create your own rear subframe to hold a double wishbone setup. Don't think anyone has done this yet but I've discussed this with others on here with the idea to use the 'build your own sportscar' plans with a bit of modification. For interests sake there was a chassis 'the hood' with a few built that had a full rollcage and double wishbone suspension on the rear. It was a pretty good looking chassis but i'm not sure if anyone has one on the road. hope thats useful
  12. yes it is a sliding pillar version. I think the original build videos are on youtube not sure where (can anyone point them out). This will show you how it all goes together and I think mentions what bush is used. I can't quite remember but i think it is probably the same bush used in the macpherson strut but it's been a long time since i watched the video so could be wrong.
  13. Was finally getting to work on my 2b today as i've been meaning to drop the diff and replace the seals to fix a leak that mot won't like. Didn't actually see it happen as i was under my car at the time but heard a loud bang/scrapping noise on the road outside my house. I figured a car had lost it's trailer or something. walked out my gate to find a vw passat estate looking low on the back with a bunch of scrape marks on the road. Checked the lady was ok and we walked around the other side to find no only was the wheel off but it was still attached to the hub... brakes and all. The weld had broken all around the hub mount to the trailing arm, looked to have rusted through. She had come down from north wales on the motorway earlier today so was pretty damn lucky to have it happen going up a hill in a 40 zone on a wide road and not at 70mph on a motorway!!! it's got an mot til jan 2020 so must not have been obvious at test time. I guess if you have a 51 reg passat estate i'd check and double check the rear trailing arms?!
  14. In addition to brumsters point, make sure your shock hits the bump stops before any other part of the suspension at full droop. On the 2b with wishbones if the shock doesn't engage first the force will be taken by the top balljoint! there is a potential for snapping the balljoint if this happens. Instead try and mount it so the shock hits the bumpstop before the balljoint. Not sure if the series 3 has the same potential as the suspension setup is different but just be aware as you are checking.
  15. just for reference takumi is also suggesting 400lb rears.
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