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agent_zed last won the day on October 27 2018

agent_zed had the most liked content!

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About agent_zed

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    Wheely good builder!

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    2B with double wishbones
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    forest of dean

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  1. have a look on ebay if you want a paper copy. the pinto was used in a few cars as you prob know so Capri or Sierra manuals will cover it. The capri manuals seem cheaper and more of them from a quick look
  2. Hi, Anyone got a Renault twingo (around 2015)? or know someone who has? I'm after the seat measurements as i think they look pretty smart and i need to replace my 30yr old sierra ones (they don't make things to last do they ) It's mostly the seat width i need to know. I don't mind removing plastic off the sides to get more space so if it's obvious there is a cm or 2 spare i could do with knowing that. I can probably mod any levers etc thanks
  3. awesome! you are making me jealous. Mines been off the road for a year working on it now to get it MOT'd as soon as i can.
  4. Looking at your pic i noticed something you may need to check for IVA. The covers on the pedals might fail. I have a feeling the brake pedal has to have a non-slip surface and that looks pretty smooth in the picture. would be worth checking the manual to be sure. Its a bit of a weird one for MOT 1. Brakes - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) as 'A brake pedal without a rubber usually has grooves or raised sections to provide grip in wet conditions and should be rejected if it’s worn smooth. However, some vehicles may have been
  5. I think mine were off a fiesta mk2 but same idea as the sierra ones. Managed to fit them with some mods with enough spindle poking out to put the normal wiper arms back on. Can you hack off any of the material above the spindles? I assume this is the part of the frame that is preventing them moving higher through the scuttle. Can't quite see in the pic but looks like the frame is above and infront of the spindles. Perhaps welding support in a different place would give you the clearance needed? Forgotten what is in the video but when i modded mine i also changed the sweep length on
  6. The English also have their own flag. The union jack is the UK flag though.
  7. yep you are right Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) for cars: help to get a pass - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) everything else on the dash etc has to be 2.5mm radius
  8. as far as i am aware there is no problem with the material used for IVA as long as it meets the curvatures required (2.5mm radius?). Under my passenger side i have a infill panel so the dash comes down and round and is then flat all the way to the firewall/end of the footwell. I failed SVA first time as there were 2 nuts through the firewall that were visible and 'sharp'! so this panel covered everything so no issues. It's a bit crazy as if you are sliding down into the footwell and killing yourself on 2 m6 nuts then something has gone properly wrong. But them's the rules. Toggle switches
  9. I did the same as Fry61 and have a hardboard dash covered in vinyl. After 13 years its finally needing a refresh as its got damp over the years and is sagging slightly. But nice and easy to replace as not that difficult to cut. I did a large oval shape to use the original sierra clocks rather than individual holes as it was easier than trying to cut vinyl around small holes. I prefer the idea of hardboard above my legs than a sheet of steel! The windscreen lower bar looks worse than it is. There will be a bit of a gap that the rubber fills but it looks worse at the moment as it is l
  10. It'll be the old rules so if it's above 1549CC then it'll be the higher rate (£265) or below (£160). The most annoying thing is my 1.6 pinto is 1593 so only 44cc's too much Have considered having a smaller engine if i ever replace it. A modern 1.4 produces more bhp as standard and is about 50KG lighter than the cast iron pinto! There was apparently a 1.3 pinto back in the day but i doubt you'll ever find one of those. Or go electric
  11. my sierra came with steel wheels with 185/60/14 for reference. I now run 195/50/15's which are slightly smaller rolling circumference so speedo reads a bit fast.
  12. I found when i made longer struts I had to cut the lock nut on the balljoint as i couldn't find it in far enough otherwise. I think they are an 18mm fine thread so not very common to get hold of.
  13. I'm with IanS - i was led to believe the racks were LHD metro racks flipped over??!! the tie rod end is definitely sierra and the joiner as Ian says was a RH part. I personally didn't like the amount of play in the joiner so i had some longer ones made which tightened up better. I seem to remember the threads on the rack end got tighter the further up the threads, hence the need for longer joiners.
  14. wow this is quite a resurrection of an old post. On the bright side my welding has improved and i've learnt a fair bit in the last 10 years! My SIP welder has given me nothing but grief to be honest but i think i've finally got it working to a reasonable standard. (it wasn't just me) This included changing the liner, adding a swan neck liner, new tip holder and taking off the wire feed roller and cutting it down on a lathe as the grooves had worn so much that the wire wasn't gripping. I've also switched to a big bottle of 5%CO2 which is a lot cheaper in the long run than the ridicul
  15. don't think it will effect the ground clearance/ride height. that is more to do with where the suspension mounts to the bottom wishbone. I think from memory you want a 2/3 1/3 setup where you have 2/3 of the suspension movement on the up stroke and 1/3 for the downward. Eg I have 13inch open 9inch closed which gives 4 inch of travel (bump stop is about 1inch) so i have about 2inches upward travel and 1 inch down when it's sat normally. so you can't necessarily just wind up or down the springs too much as you would potentially be changing the available length of the shock. Ideally y
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