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agent_zed

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Everything posted by agent_zed

  1. yeah that was a pain sorting that. Mine aren't perfect by any means but not too bad looking, i beat some aluminium into the right shape and covered with black leatherette. I'm lucky i had an old rollbar off a tractor with a nice curve that i could beat the ally around. The inner side is cut to allow it to curve as i couldn't get it to bend both inside and outside curves. I can get a picture if you want.
  2. If its the sierra pedal box (most likely it is) then there is a momentary switch on the brake pedal. It actually works backwards to most switches as when you press the pedal it comes off the switch and turns the brake lights on, depressing the switch turns them off. It just clips into the pedal box from memory so you can remove the switch without too much effort. I have a feeling mine got stuck in the past and i tinkered with it and it was all good again. most likely wd40'd it.
  3. Yeah as richyb66 says they get proper tight on there. I've done similar to above but with the wheel in place i push and pull on opposite sides to loosen it. I put mine on a lathe a couple of months back as the same as yours the paint was flaking. It's not perfect but i gave it a buff and left it as ally.
  4. agent_zed

    Gaz shocks

    Do you know the poundage?
  5. Cheaper DIY version of what Andi has linked to ... Small piece of perspex heated and folded in half so you can slip a thin piece of aluminium in between where you place your ticket. Ally has a tab so you can pull it out easily. 2 holes - 1 in each top corner through plastic and ally so you can put a cable lock (e.g https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-T1154-Hand-Tools-Transparent/dp/B06Y6H24GH/ref=asc_df_B06Y6H24GH/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=223170773229&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13162554426772147465&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007420&hvtargid=pla-422224529753&psc=1) through one and back through the other and around the steering wheel. Although don't most accept payment by phone and just have a list of number plates they check against these days?
  6. The 2b roof came with 2 bars. One hinges off the other. This means the roof is held off the rollbar as one is slightly in front and one is behind. Similar to the above but it avoids the roof touching the rollbar. I made my own with aluminium tube. Quite amazed i managed to bend it without kinking it. I bent it around a wooden former and i think i did the trick of filling the pipe with sand (packed tightly - hammer it down with a dowel).
  7. yeah i'd look at the relative thickness and construction of the original clutch fork as a starting point. From memory isn't it only pressed steel?
  8. adding to the above the other way of looking at it is to put in a lighter reliable engine and work/spend more on weight reduction and handling. Switching from the pinto to a zetec for example will drop 30-40kg as the pinto is a brute. Lighter seats, wheels, panelling etc etc will improve handling as well.
  9. You may want to factor in the exhaust as the pinto exits on the right hand side (drivers) where a lot of engines exit the other side. So that will be a fair bit of cost to replace. I think the duratec exits on the RHS but you'd need a bell housing assuming you have a type 9. The other option is going smaller and turbo charging. If you are under ~1500cc you will save £100 a year on tax which doesn't sound a lot unless you keep the car for a while. I've had mine for 13 years so would have saved over a grand in hindsight, or at least paid for the engine, if i'd put in a smaller engine at the start. The 1.4 punto turbo engine puts out 130bhp for example, although that would need a custom bell housing. But as an example it would be significantly lighter than the v6 just my random thoughts
  10. agent_zed

    Gaz shocks

    Hi, What version of the gaz shocks are these? I'm assuming standard steel bodied but I have gaz golds on the front which are ally. Are they adjustable damper? If you've got springs I might be interested in the 16's. Thanks
  11. Having a think about this on the way to work this morning and wondering if any of the following applies... Did the one have an LSD and the other not? Similar to above did one have a different diff ratio - therefore different gearing/power at certain rpm. Or different gearbox type9 vs mt75 for example, or even the diesel type 9 which i think has a different set of ratio's. Baffled fuel tank or different location of fuel tank - if your fuel tank is right at the back and sloshing back and forth it could cause problems in cornering Is the pedal box the same - a longer throw accelerator slightly reduces sudden changes in power. If the dampers are shot then it may not keep the wheels firmly on the ground over bumps. As for tyres i run uniroyal rainsport 3's. I don't drive fast so can't really tell you too much on that front but i would guess they are a soft-ish compound as they are designed for rain which is going to be cold. Good if you get caught in the rain as well. I had cheap V tread tyres with the tread almost to the limit and got caught in the rain and it was like ice skating. The rainsports are also a good price.
  12. Hi, I've got the 2b with the optional front wishbones on the front. I'm running Gaz golds 13inch open shocks with 350lb springs. I believe the zimmeride green ones that I had with the kit were 320lb. I've got a 1.6 pinto e-max which is the same block as the 2litre so would expect same weight pretty much. I still have the sierra springs at the rear so don't have first hand experience but from reading on here i believe you need 350-400lb springs. It will depend a little on where you mount the shock. If it's in the spring cup where the original spring was then it will need to be stronger as the leverage will be greater than if mounted where the shock mount is at the back of the wishbone.
  13. I thought i'd read on here people using zetec calipers and discs on the rear? I assume you'd need a custom bracket. Don't know if anyone can shed more light on this
  14. Wasn't questioned at all. This was in 2007 though. Mine is along the lines of (obviously just example as not posting real vin numbers online) ABC2397X2002X2008 The 'ABC' being my initials, 2 (day) 3(month) 97(year) of DOB, 2002 being the start date of build, 2008 being the finish of build. The X's were just to separate the sections and make up the 17digits required
  15. I made my vin up when i did SVA a long time ago. Wasn't questioned by sva or dvla. I guess it depends on which way the wind is blowing though as DVLA aren't always consistent. I like it as it is details personal to me including the year i started and the year i finished. Very few people can say they have a personalised vin number As for areas they might ask for photos for... I was asked to show evidence of anti-crush tubes in the top suspension mount that slides into the roll bar at the rear. I had to weld in a tube that the bolt then goes through so doing up the bolt won't deform the tubes.
  16. On the plus side at least you know it's been inspected, which should hopefully make it safer for everyone. Although if they allow it to pass with the 3 self tappers per side that RH tell you to use in the videos then safety is quite literally out the window! I've heard a few people say they get a glazier to cut a landrover defender screen to size. If they cut it in the right place it will have the correct markings as it needs to be laminated. A lot of our older screens are toughened but not laminated and won't pass anymore. I've bought a film to put on the back of mine to stop glass going everywhere if my screen breaks.
  17. Re-check your ignition timing. I've had similar when it was way out after putting back together. If it's the bosch electronic dizzy there are some initial settings you can line it up with to get a ball park starting point. Its in the haynes manual (don't have it to hand or i'd post a pic). Check all the ht leads are correct too whilst you are at it.
  18. yeah that's the problem I found. Proper courses are expensive. I reckon if you spent a grand on a welder you would weld pretty well quite quickly. I bought a SIP (around £220) and have struggled with it for ages thinking it was my technique (might still be partly). Changed the liner, added a liner to the swan neck, added a big gas bottle, shouted at it, kicked it a little, ignored it hoping it would miss me... eventually found the wire guide wheel was worn so it couldn't grip the wire and push it properly which explained the jerky nature and burn back. Stuck the wheel on the lathe and skimmed it down and now welding considerably better.
  19. also don't buy the disposable bottles of gas! they are expensive and you'll get through loads of them. I made that mistake. I've now got a bit rented bottle from sgs (i think). It's a deposit and then you just pay for refills which are about £40 but last loads of times more than the disposable ones at £15 a pop. I tried aluminium welding but didn't manage to get a stable weld. Also if you have a steel liner it can jam more with aluminium wire. I got a bunch of birds nests. I welded all my exhaust (inc 4-1 mani) in stainless with my mig and quite pleased with the results. If you are welding mild steel outside the flux cored wire is good as less likely the shield of gas is blown away.
  20. Hi, I think the very last 2b's (possibly only the superspecs) had factory standard lift off bonnets. Most of us with bonnets like that though have modded them ourselves. There are numerous examples on here, and different ways of doing it. I went traditional and made a fixed scuttle and nose cone. I did a video years ago its not the best video in the world (2 people out there gave it a thumbs down! ha) but hopefully you might find some use to it.
  21. thanks both. I've had another look at them and not as bad as i first thought. They are pretty flat, no grooves etc so might just give them a quick sand so i don't cover my alloys in brown rusty dust on first drive.
  22. oh yeah i remember i sat in a westfield on their stand at a show a fair few years ago. It wasn't busy at all but the guy couldn't be bothered to talk to me as assumed I wasn't buying/had enough money. I wasn't impressed by that to be honest. GBS were a lot friendlier and chatted for a while
  23. I think it would depend on your radiator or expansion tank. I use a 13lb cap on my 'coolman' radiator that came with the RH kit. I think its cortina based fitting but others can confirm.
  24. I built mine myself so can't help with suppliers but i will add that the one advantage with a custom setup is that you can get it to fit around things. Not sure how yours is currently setup but I know the steering shaft can be in the way of manifold and sometimes needs re-routing. I built my manifold to miss the shaft and also give enough room for the brake servo. What do you currently have? is it a stainless exhaust system? If the box isn't actually leaking it may have just blown out all of the wadding. Cut a hole in the side where you can't see it and re-pack. I used stainless scouring pads around the perforated tube and glassfibre on top of that.
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