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LewisH

RHOCaR Member
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LewisH last won the day on June 21

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  • Car type
    Exmo
  • Full name
    Lewis Harman

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  • Location
    Maidenhead

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Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/5)

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  1. I gave up pretty quickly on option 1 after I realised what is involved, with my lack of the correct machinery and knowledge I think it will just be a long stressful swearing session. No part numbers from Dave, we've agreed a price, but not actually worked out how to do it yet. The main problem is trying to make something that can reliably take the loads in a mcpherson strut setup, but also fit under the narrow Exmo suspension buttress. I've given Dave lot's of images of the Exmo setup, dims, also shared the solution that Richard came up with, so that we can try and find a solution. Fingers crossed, I'll keep you posted.
  2. Yes, beginning to wish I had done the same. Mine didn't look rusty, I'm assuming it's the rubber seals that have perished but either way it's extremely annoying. I've been in touch with Dave at Dampertech and to be fair to him he responded straight away with a solution and good info...however, they cannot be repaired apparently and are no longer made, so my only option according to him is to replace with a GAZ equivalent, which is £320 for the pair! I now have a couple of options; 1. Hunt for a replacement seal kit, I believe this is all that I need in order to repair these dampers. I assume all I need is a kit for a damper with the same diameter...probably more to it than that, but worth a try. 2. Go for the replacement units from Dampertech. Dave said that these have a 50mm body dia, I explained that my RH dampers are 42mm, but he has stated that 50mm is the correct size for mcpherson struts as they are load bearing. I just need to check the sierra hubs to see if it will accommodate a 50mm strut...and then find £320 down the back of the sofa. 3. Chop the front of the car off and engineer a double wishbone setup. Something I don't have the time, expertise or money to do.
  3. Thanks! Yes, it was purely to raise the height of the belts. The C-channels that I used for the lower mounting points were 3mm gauge by the way.
  4. Apologies, reigniting an old one here, but did you make these or buy them from somewhere? I have done less that 100miles in my exmo and have noticed today that both shocks are leaking. Admittedly they are many years old and have been sat under a tarp, but nonetheless very frustrating seeing as they are not an 'off the shelf' product anymore.
  5. I can't remember the gauge to be honest, I'll measure tomorrow and let you know, but yes it was belt and braces for me as this was an area of concern. With the shoulder mounts I added a crossbar to my rollbar for the belts to run over. Pic below.
  6. I did exactly this on my Exmo and passed in Feb this year with no comments on how I had mounted seat belts. I used some C-channels with captive nuts on the outside, with additional spreader plates on the inside of chassis. Pics below. I used top section of the rear tub for shoulder strap mounts, but fitted an extra piece of angle inside the tub to spread the load.
  7. LewisH

    Fuel tank leak

    Unfortunately this is much smaller than the exmo tank and the holes for filler & sender do not line up. I've just taken the tank out and mine is 860mm wide...rivnut tool has arrived though so I am going to go down this route. Thank you for going to the efforts of the drawing though, much appreciated.
  8. LewisH

    Fuel tank leak

    Ah ok yes definitely. I assume that the sender unit hole is to fit standard sierra unit? The main concern I have is whether it will fit in the exmo. Would you be able to send me some basic dims of the tank and also dims of where the holes are for sender & filler? The exmo has pre-cut holes in the monocoque that need to match the tank roughly.
  9. LewisH

    Fuel tank leak

    I like the idea of cannibalising the sierra tank to fit onto the RH one, the cheapest one I can see on ebay is starting at £60...so I'll try rivnuts first and see how it goes, it's a tool I don't have currently so an investment if nothing else. If it still leaks I'll go down the sierra tank route or try and fabricate something like Jez. Many thanks for the suggestions gents
  10. Hi all, After experimenting with the Exmo this week, I have found that the fuel tank is leaking around the sender unit. I then tried to tighten up the 6mm nuts that hold the sender unit in place, only for one of the threaded bars that is welded to the tank to come off in my hand! As I don't fancy tying to weld aluminum, I am now looking for a new fuel tank. Are these standard across the Robin Hood range? Can anyone suggest an affordable option? I have looked on kit spares and they are £180, but don't seem to have any provision for the sierra sender unit to be fixed in place.
  11. Ok thanks. I will take this bit apart and give it a flush with carb cleaner. Fingers crossed!
  12. Yes. So should this be in both or is it progressive i.e. First barrel under partial throttle then the second under full throttle? It's definitely working in the barrel closest to the engine, I've not noticed this in the other barrel.
  13. I've recently had the tank out when fitting new fuel pump and refilled with new fuel. Carb also seems to fill fairly quickly when I've not used it in a while so fairly confident fuel lines and pick up are clear.
  14. Hi, thanks for your reply. I've checked the plugs and they are a little sooty but not massively. Checked the float, looks fine and is sitting level. I've changed the fuel pump from mechanical to electric (low pressure facet), this didn't make any difference to the running, just saves the battery when I try and start it after not having done so in a while. All fuel filters changed as well. I've double checked every fitting/gasket/face on the manifold, pretty sure it's not leaking. I've double checked the ignition timing, was set at around 10deg, I've moved back to 6 as per Haynes. This seemed to help a little but still feels a bit gutless, engine still stalls if the choke is fully open and hard throttle - doesn't do this when choke is closed. This is when up to temp. The air jets are only a couple of £ each so might just bite the bullet and buy some to experiment.
  15. Good afternoon all, I have an 1800 pinto with a Weber 32/36 carb which I cannot seem to get running right. The engine starts, runs & idles fine, but under acceleration the engine stalls, particularly if I open the throttle quickly. The engine is also very low on power and doesn't seem to pull under load. I have checked and changed the obvious; rotor arm, HT leads & dizi cap. My thinking is that the carb is for a 2litre and I am using it on an 1800. I have changed the primary & secondary main jets from 135/140 to 120/125 - although I haven't driven the car since, I have run in the garage and it hasn't stopped the engine stalling under heavy acceleration. I am now thinking I should also change the air jets, but I really don't know what I am doing here, it's all guess work. Can anyone offer some pointers here? Should I be reducing the air jets as well, or increasing the air jets? Was I right to reduce the main jets or should I be increasing these? I have looked for a rolling road near me (Maidenhead) but the only one I could find said that they only do Bike carbs...which is now tempting seeing as I am getting nowhere with the weber. Any advice here would be much appreciated. I've had the car on the road since Feb but haven't managed to do more than a 20 minute journey testing and then more head scratching.
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