LewisH

Don't worry, problem solved. Faulty TPS - serves me right for buying crap from ebay. If it seems to good to be true, it normally is.

Afternoon all, I am in the process of converting from dizi to megajolt on Ford Pinto, but have come up against a problem when wiring the TPS. There are 3 pins to wire from the sensor, my understanding is that they should be identified as 1 = signal. 2 = ground. 3 = 5v. Can someone tell me how to test these to find out what is what? So far, I have connected a multimeter set to ohms x1k, one lead connected to centre pin (purple), the other connected to one of the other pins (grey or black). I am getting a high resistance between purple and black and a low resistance between purple and grey. If I connect grey & black the resistance isn't constant. Not sure if the above testing is the correct way to do it? Also, if I turn the throttle when the leads are connected, the resistance isn't changing, this is the same when measuring between any of the pins. I've tried taking the TPS off and turning by hand and get the same result. Any help on this would be much appreciated. For info, this is a Mikuni TPS fitted to ZX6R carbs.

Lovely stuff

dave@dampertech.co.uk

After a lot of messing around, checking timing, changing cylinder head, changing plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizi cap...I've finally found the source of my engine running problem. Frustratingly, after all that, it was just a blocked fuel filter on the carb. I've got a weber 32/36 and beneath the carb there is a 19mm brass nut, underneath the nut there is a small filter, which was full of black detritus. Never realised there was a filter there...now I do, cleaned and she now starts and idles just fine, hallelujah! Just in time for summer, oh bugger. At last, the upgrade to 2.0 and stage 3 head is complete, only took me a year.

New head has arrived at last, but in taking the old head off I accidentally dropped one of the m6 bolts that holds the plate on the back of the camshaft down an oil-way in the block. I've tried fishing it out with a magnet but no joy. I assume it's now sitting in the sump...question is, do I need to take the sump off and get this out? Or can this sit in the sump without causing an issue? Pic attached of where the bolt has gone.

I have done this using these from kit card direct. They need a bit of modification but work well and allow wings to steer with the wheels. http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/cycle-wing-bracket-front-wing-stays-for-billet-aluminium-upright-black-single.html The front suspension buttresses also need trimming a bit to allow the wing to sit across the width of the wheel.

So I've checked and double checked cam/ignition timing, it must be close enough to run. I've taken the carb off and given it a good clean, a bit gunky but not too bad...yet still I'm getting exactly the same issues. Very difficult to start and once running it won't idle and just dies. I'm now thinking is this potentially leaky valves on the head giving low compression? I've rebuilt the bottom end but didn't think to check how the valves were sealing. Given that this was an ebay engine purchase, probably should have checked this before slapping the head back on. I've got an injection head being refurbished/machined by Burtons at the moment, but was hoping to do the running in miles with the existing head whilst I wait for the refurbed one. Is there an easy way to check for vavle leakage without taking the head off? I don't know if my symptoms are a result of low compression but running out of ideas here.

I have a spare weber 32/36 auto choke with manifold. Came to me with a complete engine so I've never used it but looks in good condition. Let me know if you are interested

Oh. Looks like I have totally misunderstood the term "maximum lift on inlet valve". Doh! Thanks Richard, I'll give this a go tomorrow just in time for the great weather...

Yeah. Double checked this yesterday with gap figures when cold from Cam supplier

Thanks Steve, I'll double check cam timing with DTI. Pretty sure carb/fuel supply is OK because using same setup as was on previous engine.

Engine is built and installed, however, I'm having trouble getting it to start and run properly. It struggles to start, lots of coughing then finally fires but won't idle and cuts out. I suspect timing is out, but I've double checked everything and in my mind it is correct. I've changed HT leads, dizi cap & rotor arm but still the same. I have worked out cam timing by finding TDC, zero'ing timing disk, then turning crank clockwise until I reach 108 deg (FR33 cam), then setting cam at this point with inlet cam lobe on no1 cylinder pointing to the sky...is this correct? At this point the rotor arm is pointing to no1 lead. Any help or pointers to check much appreciated.

I could be interested. I'm only in Maidenhead, so there's a good chance the car would make it that far I'm yet to fire-up the newly built pinto though...so fingers crossed!

Sorry, just measured again and they are 38mm, not sure how I got 33, maybe digital calipers should have been on my Christmas list! Anyway, 42mm into a 38mm hole is going to be difficult. Do I just need to persist with a big hammer? Or are these plugs too big? I can only seem to find one size for pinto but I am a bit worried about cracking the block. From the little info online that i can find, plugs should be less than 1mm larger than the hole, but no idea if this is correct or a general rule of thumb?