LewisH

Tested this afternoon again with sliders held open, made no difference. Yes, testing with a cold engine. I got the dial indicator out again on the inlet valve to double check if was fully open at 108deg. Looks to be spot on.

I've not tried this. I'll have a go this afternoon and report back, thanks.

I have checked the timing using dial indicator to spec, but the compression numbers still seem low to me, I'm just not sure what I should be getting? My head is skimmed and the block has also been re-faced, I was thinking that this could change the required cam timing from the Kent quoted figures and perhaps it needs advancing slightly?

Haven't got that far yet unfortunately. My thinking was continuing with advancing the cam timing to see if it helped raise compression even more. I just wasn't sure if it was a good idea? Also not sure if raising compression correlates directly to better running engine.

Afternoon all, Bit of an update...difficult to grab an hour these days, but managed to get out this afternoon to check timing and tappet clearances. The cam timing looked slightly out, I have advanced this on the vernier pulley as much as I can - this was a big improvement with compression, jumped from 100psi to 130psi. I then checked clearances, all inlet valves were tight. Re-tested compression and I now have around 140psi on all. Although I am pleased to get some progress, I am still wondering if 140psi is low for a tuned pinto? If it is low, do I carry on advancing the cam timing slightly to see if this keeps improving? It is set currently to roughly 108ATDC (Kent quoted figure for FR32). Any help much appreciated.

Brand new, this was installed when i first assembled the engine after re-bore and new head etc. I checked the timing against the quoted figures from Kent, however I'll double check along with tappets etc.

Yeah all plugs out and throttle open. When I first installed the Megajolt I checked the ignition timing with a strobe on the base map and then again on the pinto map. Looked to be correct.

Yes throttle was wide open. I also found oil on the spark plug threads, does this indicate oil passing by piston rings? The block was re-bored, just wondering if they have over-bored/honed and now it is oversized for pistons???

Yeah all reading roughly 100psi. It's a brand new cam as well, I'll double check valve gaps though.

I'm using a new compression test kit, not sure how I can verify if it is calibrated correctly?

So bit if an update, I've done a compression test and I'm getting just over 100psi in each cylinder. From what I've read, I should be getting close to 200 with a stage 3 head etc. The question is now, how do I find out what is giving me such low compression? I'm assuming this is the cause of low power and misfire etc. Any help much appreciated.

I'll try anything at this stage. Another £65 though

Really banging my head against the wall here. Nobody that I have contacted locally isn't interested. As soon as I mention kit car and carburettors, they say they can't help me. Does anyone have a contact that could help me? I have a 2.0 pinto, with megajolt ECU and ZX6R carbs, based in Maidenhead SL6. I've tried changing jet sizes, ignition maps, but getting the same result. As above, they idle fine and rev up nicely in the garage, but under load when driving, it doesn't rev past about 2k rpm, sounds almost like it's misfiring.

Hi all, I have been struggling like crazy to get ZX6R bike carbs set up on my pinto. They start and idle fine but are running lean and don't really pick up revs on hard acceleration. I've trued upping the jets to 1.8, but it spat fuel back out of the carb, went down to 1.7 which is better, but still v lean and not accelerating. I've read that blocking air correctors is worth trying in order to richen, but I have no idea where the air corrector is. I've taken the air filter off and taken a pic of the jets I can see. Is this the main jet on the left and air corrector on the right? Or do I need to take the bottom of the carb off to access main jet and air corrector? I've tried searching the forum, lot's of talk about what to do, but I'm not 100% on what's what. Please help!

Don't worry, problem solved. Faulty TPS - serves me right for buying crap from ebay. If it seems to good to be true, it normally is.

Afternoon all, I am in the process of converting from dizi to megajolt on Ford Pinto, but have come up against a problem when wiring the TPS. There are 3 pins to wire from the sensor, my understanding is that they should be identified as 1 = signal. 2 = ground. 3 = 5v. Can someone tell me how to test these to find out what is what? So far, I have connected a multimeter set to ohms x1k, one lead connected to centre pin (purple), the other connected to one of the other pins (grey or black). I am getting a high resistance between purple and black and a low resistance between purple and grey. If I connect grey & black the resistance isn't constant. Not sure if the above testing is the correct way to do it? Also, if I turn the throttle when the leads are connected, the resistance isn't changing, this is the same when measuring between any of the pins. I've tried taking the TPS off and turning by hand and get the same result. Any help on this would be much appreciated. For info, this is a Mikuni TPS fitted to ZX6R carbs.

Lovely stuff

dave@dampertech.co.uk

After a lot of messing around, checking timing, changing cylinder head, changing plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizi cap...I've finally found the source of my engine running problem. Frustratingly, after all that, it was just a blocked fuel filter on the carb. I've got a weber 32/36 and beneath the carb there is a 19mm brass nut, underneath the nut there is a small filter, which was full of black detritus. Never realised there was a filter there...now I do, cleaned and she now starts and idles just fine, hallelujah! Just in time for summer, oh bugger. At last, the upgrade to 2.0 and stage 3 head is complete, only took me a year.

New head has arrived at last, but in taking the old head off I accidentally dropped one of the m6 bolts that holds the plate on the back of the camshaft down an oil-way in the block. I've tried fishing it out with a magnet but no joy. I assume it's now sitting in the sump...question is, do I need to take the sump off and get this out? Or can this sit in the sump without causing an issue? Pic attached of where the bolt has gone.

I have done this using these from kit card direct. They need a bit of modification but work well and allow wings to steer with the wheels. http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/cycle-wing-bracket-front-wing-stays-for-billet-aluminium-upright-black-single.html The front suspension buttresses also need trimming a bit to allow the wing to sit across the width of the wheel.

So I've checked and double checked cam/ignition timing, it must be close enough to run. I've taken the carb off and given it a good clean, a bit gunky but not too bad...yet still I'm getting exactly the same issues. Very difficult to start and once running it won't idle and just dies. I'm now thinking is this potentially leaky valves on the head giving low compression? I've rebuilt the bottom end but didn't think to check how the valves were sealing. Given that this was an ebay engine purchase, probably should have checked this before slapping the head back on. I've got an injection head being refurbished/machined by Burtons at the moment, but was hoping to do the running in miles with the existing head whilst I wait for the refurbed one. Is there an easy way to check for vavle leakage without taking the head off? I don't know if my symptoms are a result of low compression but running out of ideas here.

I have a spare weber 32/36 auto choke with manifold. Came to me with a complete engine so I've never used it but looks in good condition. Let me know if you are interested

Oh. Looks like I have totally misunderstood the term "maximum lift on inlet valve". Doh! Thanks Richard, I'll give this a go tomorrow just in time for the great weather...

Yeah. Double checked this yesterday with gap figures when cold from Cam supplier