LewisH

Hi all, I am after 2 x ford wheel for my IVA as my current rears are too wide and stick out slightly from the arch. 108 pcd, ideally 15". My wheels are 6.5" wide, have an offset of 18 and are fitted with 195 wide tyres - they are sticking out by approx 5mm, so I guess anything narrower than these will work. My retest is booked for the 15th Dec, but ideally I would borrow then ASAP so that I can make sure they are going to do the job.# I am based in Maidenhead, Berkshire, but happy to drive within 100miles to collect.

Unfortunately some of the tyre can be seen when looking down from above, so sadly the examiner is correct, albeit 5mm at most. Very frustrating. I am going to have to look for some similar sized wheels with a smaller offset.

That would be great. Current wheels are 6.5 wide with 195 tyres. Offset is 18.

Yeah good shout. I'll get through the retest first and then look at this again.

Retest booked for December...bit of a delay whilst the bathroom got finished. I have done all of the items, but I'm struggling to find a solution to the rear wheel arches not covering the wheels. Pic attached, does anyone have an idea for this that doesn't involve making holes in the arches? I had considered using narrow wheels for the test but don't particularly want to spend a fortune just for one use.

I've had a bit of a nightmare with this unfortunately. TCA's arrived but unfortunately the guy had made them 2 inches longer than OEM when not extended, rather than 2 inches longer when fully extended as I requested. I put them on and found that I had approx 7 deg of negative camber...obviously far too much. I've tried cutting the threads & shanks down as much as I can but still got approx deg. So I've put the original TCA's back on and adjusted the tie-rod to push the caster forward as much as possible, which has also improved the camber a bit. I've now got approx 1 degree of negative camber, just a shame it took all of this messing around and wasting money on the adjustable one's.

Thanks for the info Dave. I've ordered and should have these by the weekend, I'll let you know how I get on. The guy at compbrake was very helpful, I said that I wasn't sure how much longer I needed them to be and he said that the extension is interchangeable, so in the event of them not being quite right I could always swap this bit out for something smaller/bigger if needed.

How did you go about setting up the amount of camber? Trial and error or did you have a tool for it that you can recommend? Also, can you remember how much longer than OEM you made them?

Cool, thanks. Good shout, mine are nut type as well!

I am thinking of changing the Track control arms for these https://www.compbrake.com/product/ford-sierra-mk1-mk2-pinch-bolt-adjustable-track-control-arms-pair-copy/ These can be made to any length, so I'm thinking of making larger than OEM in order to push the bottom of the wheel out so to give more negative camber. Currently my front wheels look to have slightly positive camber, my thinking is that doing this mod, as well as pushing the caster forward as much as possible with my tie-bars (instead of anti-roll bar), will give me a better 'centering effect' on the steering, which was one of my IVA fails. Any thoughts/opinions on this would be appreciated. Lewis

Thanks Chris

Hi all, Pic attached of the leaking part on my rad. Do you think this is repairable? If not, can anyone recommend a suitable replacement? Many thanks Lew

Hi Chris, Nit far then. The exmo is quite different to your 2b and my running gear is from a sierra, so not sure how much help I will be! Nonetheless, let me know if you need anything. Regards Lewis

I'm in Maidenhead, just finishing an Exmo build. What are you building?

This is stunning. Hat's off to the builder, very nice work.

Cam looks okay. Pulling the shaft further towards me didn't help because the boss stops against the assembly for the lock barrel, so it just ended up giving me more thread through the big centre nut. I've managed to sort it by using some old plastic lids to cut out disks with a hole in the middle to act as a spacer on the back of the boss. Only 3mm or so but just enough to move it away from the indicators. Problem solved and steering now SOOO much lighter. Now I've just got to work out how to get the horn buttons on the new wheel to work.

Okay thanks, I'll give that a go.

I've discovered the reason why my steering is stiff and hard work to turn the wheel (one of my recent fail items). The back of the steering wheel boss is fouling against the sierra indicator assembly, so much that it is gradually wearing down the indicator assembly plastic. Has anyone else encountered this? Pic below is with Momo boss, but Mountney is the same, if not worse.

Has anyone removed the Mountney boss to swap out for a different wheel? I have bought a Momo wheel which has come with a new boss, but I am struggling with how to remove the existing. Pics below, first part of boss removed, but not sure how to remove the rear section. Is this on a thread? Tips on how to get this off would be great, many thanks.

ZT sounds like the best bang for buck option, so any more info would be very helpful as this will most likely be my project for next winter

Part of my IVA fail was the "sharp" edge on my fuel filler cap. Does anyone know where I can source one with a radius edge that will fit? It is the one supplied from Robin Hood and the hole size from the filler neck looks to be around 35mm. Failing that, does anyone have an idea as to how I could fit a piece of trim around the edge? Reluctant to file off the edge but that may be my last resort.

I am planning to swap out the 1800 pinto that is in my Exmo at some point next winter and was wondering what people thought would be the best replacement? I have a 2.8 ford cologne v6 that is in bits in the garage but needs restoring, having looked into costs, I think it would be around £3k to get it restored to how I would like (re-bore to 3ltr). Given that it would probably still be under 200bhp, albeit sounding very nice, I am wondering what other options I could go for on this budget?

Cool, thanks for that mate. Got the in-laws down for a couple of days so I'll try this at the weekend and let you know.

I seem to remember doing this by counting out number of turns on the track rods from a Robin Hood video. Both front wheels are visibly pointing in so could well be far too much toe in. I am going to set up some sort of string alignment tool and try to get a parrallel base setting. Pics below of what I mean. Fingers crossed this sorts it!!

Thanks for the info. I'll have a play around with tie-bar setup and see what difference it makes. Difficult for me to test this though considering it isn't road legal. Might have to be a quick run around the block and hope I don't meet the rozzers. The front suspension is fouling on both front and back of the n shaped outrigger, so I am going to have to "manipulate" and create more room. I'll focus on bending the front out so that I have more room to push the strut bottom forward.