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RallyChris

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RallyChris last won the day on May 12

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  1. RallyChris

    Front hub

    No, but I might be interested in one of your NS hubs if you can find an OS one to replace it! There are a number of ‘old stock’ RH/OS hub housings on eBay from the same seller, albeit ABS type (and note he also has 4x4 type that are different too). Chris
  2. No spacers within the rectangular box section cross members at the front - I am using non standard poly bushes and corresponding crush tubes that are well matched to the width of the box section. The rear (open) cross members are more challenging on my chassis with definitely a few mm difference in longitudinal position of the upper angle section between both sides. There is a correspondingly different thickness spacer on the rear side of the upper wishbone rear mount to compensate. Even so, the measured castor angle of the two front hubs is also a couple of degrees different between sides.
  3. That’s definitely a factor - I’ve spent a couple of weeks trying to set the front suspension against a horizontal datum and there is undoubtedly some asymmetry in the chassis. But I’ve not been able to pinpoint any single large dimensional variation in the suspension pickups that would cause both the camber issue and the wheel centre height to be about 10-15mm different from side to side for the same coilover mounting position.
  4. I'm currently building up the front suspension of my 2B, but have a suspicion that the geometry of the front LH/NS/Passenger side hub casting is not quite right and it may have suffered a kerb strike in its original life! Before I attack my new upper wishbone to make enough clearance to bring the camber angle into spec, does anyone have a spare front hub available to buy? Either a bare Sierra housing or a built up assembly (2wd). Alternatively if anyone has one they could lend me, if not for sale, to check if it solves the geometry issue that would also be very useful. I'm located near Newbury, Berks so can either collect locally or pay for courier collection. Picture for attention - that's the other side and all seems to be OK!! Thanks!
  5. Yes, the issue is likely to be that the offset between crankshaft Centre and gearbox is too large on most bikes for the engine to be aligned straight in the chassis, without the propshaft wiping out the footwell on a RHD seven style kit. By skewing the engine over it allows the prop to sit closer to the car’s centreline.
  6. I think given the issues you and other owners have had, a sleeved shaft with appropriate welding of an original oem splines end is a safer bet than a RH/GBS original shaft spline made from cheese!
  7. Update - looks like you are not the first to suffer an issue with wear of the RH steering shaft: https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/44206-superspec-steering-shaft/#comment-358668 Given that a compatible replacement UJ is stated in that thread as coming from a LR Discovery I would be looking for any compatible steering shaft from either a mk2 Escort (actually the inner steering column?) or a Discovery, then chop the end off and have it welded onto your existing shaft with a tube over the outside.
  8. Andy, I don't know exactly what major components were used on a Superspec, but on the 2B it used Sierra steering column with a modified Metro (or later Escort mk2?) steering rack. The lower steering shaft was therefore a RH fabrication to join a Sierra compatible UJ at the column end to a Metro compatible UJ at the rack end. I think the Superspec used a Mondeo column and Escort Mk2 rack? In any case, if I understand your issue the lower spline is now worn out so you need a dummy end from the donor vehicle steering shaft to suit the steering rack UJ, and have that welded into your steering shaft in place of the current worn out end. I am using a Mazda steering column on my 2B so I dissected the RH lower shaft, which was simply welded in a ring around the shaft at the back of the UJ. There was then an inch or so of the original shaft spigoted into tube, so you may be able to do something similar to unpick your splined stub from the RH shaft.
  9. Wanted - a pair of camber/toe wedge shims for standard Sierra IRS, when fitted to RH 2B.
  10. Quite likely the issue then. Modern engines have so called ‘smart alternators’ where the charging can be controlled by the engine’s ECU via a single feed wire to the alternator (all part of a CO2 reduction effort so the alternator does most of its work when the car is decelerating). I don’t know much about the Ford engines but on an MX5 engine the alternator was ‘smart’ from about year 2000.
  11. IVA comes before registration, and the car will be emissions tested for IVA based on the documented age of the engine. Bike carbs might be a problem and you’ll need a CAT. However, if as Richie says you go for a non age related Q plate subsequent MOTs are visible smoke test only as per a pre 1974(?) registered vehicle so you have more freedom to tune the engine and remove cat etc.
  12. On a similar topic - does anyone have any experience of fitting ‘monocoque’ fibreglass RH rear wings to a 2B? There’s a 2B for sale on gumtree showing the wrap around rear wings/quarters so I wondered if anyone knows how well they fit to the 2B chassis?
  13. If you aren’t bothered about the colour of a replacement nose, why not just repair and paint the one you have?
  14. I doubt it would be worth it with the Exmo being a sheet steel monocoque chassis. The later tubular chassis models can be converted to wishbone suspension as it is (relatively) easy to weld on the new brackets. Not so easy with thin stainless steel sheet!
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