Jump to content


RHOCaR Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


dandan62 last won the day on March 4

dandan62 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

26 Excellent

1 Follower

About dandan62

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood S7 Sierra
  • Full name
    David Neill

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

6,314 profile views
  1. I have considered that but I'm old fashioned and quite like the idea of keeping the reliable mechanical one to do the main work. Only a thought at the moment....
  2. I read somewhere that you can wire them through the solenoid so they only activate on startup? Setup with 2 t pieces to run in parallel with the mechanical pump. This helps when the car has been left for a while to stop the long turnover needed? Anyone done this?
  3. It was made from 2"x1" box section steel. All done with an angle grinder. The only tool in my tool box Some people use U section but i thought leaving the outer edge closed would add some strength. It seems to be holding up well so far. I'm sure there are neater solutions out there but it does the job.
  4. Hi there. Can't help you with brake advice but I'm in Bury. Other side of Storrington. There are a few new members in the area. Scope for a meet when we are allowed. David
  5. I see your problem. According to the manual the barrel needs to be in position 1 with the key for it to be removed. A quick Google shows a couple of options. If you are very lucky, your barrel will have the key code stamped on the outside somewhere. 1980's security! Some old school locksmiths will be able to make a key. Other option is to drill out the shear bolts? Hopefully someone will be along with an easier option. Keep looking for the key
  6. Rubbed down well. Base coats, clear coats, rub down, fine cutting polish and wax.
  7. After and before. Happy with that. It wouldn't win any awards but its red and shiny which it wasn't before. Just wings to final polish and wax.
  8. Indeed! Still like red though
  9. It has been like that since I bought it 5 years ago. One advantage of the lockdown. Going to match the red with my road car so I know what I'm getting.
  10. My old red panels are very faded as you can see when i removed the lights. My camera makes the original look pink but it is bright red. Long overdue!
  11. Thanks. Just looked at the "pro" version. The top photo looks exactly like mine. The bottom photo looks completely different! Not entirely sure I trust the listing on that basis. When/if mine wears out I will look again. I do put a tiny bit of copper grease on mine. Makes it slide easier and hopefully stops a bit on wear. Using it and a flat bottomed steering wheel makes life so much easier getting in and out.
  12. I bought this one from eBay last year. Still ok but i don't do many miles. I only paid £12 . At that price if i have to replace every couple of years that's fine. I needed a very slim one and this is a good size. You should be able to find one just by the picture.
  13. I'm pretty sure the rose joint eye was m12. I used m8 to bolt the bracket. The box section was 2" x 1" . 2mm thick. I haven't done a huge mileage yet but it all seems solid without distorting.
  14. Much easier than starting from scratch. It seems to be quite a common method. You may find depending on the position of your engine mounts that they are just where you need to drill through for the brackets. I just got away with mine and in fact used the mounts to sandwich the inner angle iron which gives further support. All depends where your mounts are. There will be a way round it.
  • Create New...