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Sparepart last won the day on October 14 2023

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    Robin Hood EXMO
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  1. I agree, the Haynes manuals for the Sierra helps for Pinto, and also for all the other bits that come from a Sierra donor used in RHE and other kit cars. The most detailed one is the "Owners Workshop Manual" ISBN 1 85010 538 3 (1982 to June 1989) .... but hard to find. The other one is the "Service and Repair Manual" ISBN 1 85960 090 5 (1982 to 1993 K reg) easier to find. Here is a link to a copy for a fiver. https://www.gumtree.com/p/books/haynes-manual-ford-sierra-82-93/1479713537
  2. The sensor in the picture is screwed into the threaded hole that is usually used to drain the coolant from the engine. So it normally has a simple blind threaded bolt head showing. Looking at the PTFE tape that appears to be in two places on the "sensor" I'd guess that an adapter has been used to reduce the hole diameter to the size needed to fix a water temperature sensor, probably for a gauge. Before you ask, the other blind bolt head that is in the photo lower down on the crank case is sealing the hole that is used on some (high spec) models to mount a sensor for a low oil level warning light. I dont know of any drawing for all the sensors. The sensor for coolant temperature is on the other side of the block, just above the disributor, and the oil pressure sensor is also on this side lower down not far from the starter motor. If you have a standard carb inlet manifold (I don't think you have) then depending on the ignition control module there is another coolant temperature sensor on the manifold.
  3. That mark that looks like an F is enigmatic, not quite a proper stamp, but unusual if its just by chance. The head on my Pinto is stamped with the letter P, but it took me a while to find it. Why? ...well its stamped next to Number 4 inlet port and can only be seen properly when the manifold flange is removed AND it upside down with the engine in place. My assumption is that it was stamped when the head was not on the block during manufacture.
  4. I suggest that you scrape the paint off the machined flat surfaces next to the no 4 spark plug, it will then be clear if there are any markings there. If you find an * stamped then look on the other side of the head near the inlet port for no 4, (look there anyway). I have picked up the following information from the various threads on this frequent topic. It might be of use. N.B any marks will be punched not "scratched" or cast in the mold. Unleaded I/D for Pinto next to number 4 spark 1.6-- M,MM,N or NN 1.8-- S or SS 2.0-- P,PP,R or RR Have a look at the shape of the inlet ports. If they are round its no help but if they are cam lobe shape then its an injection head and is unleaded. 'I' OR 'L' stamped next to number 4 spark plug hole= a leaded head most likely to be 1979 - 1982 in age
  5. One assumes thatyou have looked at the literature links in the Wikipedia, like the Steve Hole A to Z book, perhaps not because of the cost. Some car shows on TV seem to be able to let the viewers know how many of car type are still on the road, also classic car magazines ... so how do they find out? The .gov.uk site has a page where you can start making an enquiry https://contact.dvla.gov.uk/vehicle/capture_transaction_type?locale=en&transaction_type_id=requesting_information_from_dvla_vehicle_records
  6. I have done some more digging around, and believe I can now answer my own question, which has been raised in other Ford related forums. The type of spline bit needed is XZN "Tripple Square", the profile being three squares overlayed to form 12 corners of 90 degrees equaly spaced around the circle. At least this is what I am going to buy, I will be after an 8 mm bit of this type. A hex key might work but it wouldn't have 90 degree faces, a square drive would probably be a better fit. I'll update this when I get hold of the XZN to try. In case of interest I am attaching a page from Wikipedia that shows the range screw head types in the world, might be useful if you are trying to find what the head that you see is called.
  7. I have changed a pinto cam belt, but not for a while. I know I have the splined bit that fits the tensioner spring bolt somewhere, BUT where did I put it! ... So many spiders are now homeless in my attempts to locate that strip of 4 or 5 splined sockets/bits....... so I need to buy some more ..... but now I look on-line and am amazed by the number of different splined sockets/bits available, I don't mean different makers, I mean different standards. The one the block that I have looks like it has 12 points, then I see 3 different standards of 12 point splines (at least) depending on the angle between the teeth. I did find a set of bits handed down from my father, but when I tried the one that looked the right diameter it started to go in but was obviouly the wrong tooth angle because it started to make grooves on the sides of the bolt teeth. I searched our extensive database and found the link below, however apart from telling me that a hex key might be ok, there is no definitive information abount exactly the type of splined bit needed. Does anyone here know the details ? https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/25924-cam-tensioner/
  8. I did this last autumn without this problem, following the manual as you have. Perhaps the seal has not gone into the housing all the way, and might be wedged out so that it is fouling the inside surface of the flange ?, or might have been proud and has now been pressed in by the flange and just needs to be tapped in a bit further.
  9. Yes, you are correct, I attach a snap from the manual.
  10. On the Mk1 Sierra (at least mine) the engine support arms do not have a slot. They use a special washer and spacer that fits over the bar in the mount and slots into a hole in the support arm. This means that there is no twist on the bolt in the rubber part when tightened or loosened. I attach two photos below that show the washers and the arm.
  11. There is nothing special about your Ford Pinto engine, so just Google for advice on starting an engine for the first time after having been silent for a while, it's simple stuff like making sure the oil is clean and up to level, water in the cooling system, clean fuel in the tank and pipework to the carb etc..... take the plugs out and turn it over on the starter first see if oil pressure is enough to turn off the warning light.. check you even see a spark at the plugs, check that the timing belt is okay. As for the missing master cylinder, your Sierra servo doesn't look too good, rather than trying to get a Sierra master cylinder, you might consider ditching the servo and fitting a Ford KA master cylinder. Members have done this. Just use this sites search facility and search for "ford KA" (in quotes) and you will see the posts relating to this. As for identifying which 2B you have check out the page we have on identification at https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm . The 2B build video is on Youtube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNA1Zs8jY_I
  12. Sparepart

    No Air Filter

    This is a suggestion, ive not tried it. Firstly use a long straight edge, say length of baton between scuttle top and nosecone edge to measure how much clearance you actually have. Then look at at thin universal pancake filters, like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311892226985 to use. Such a filter could even be made thinner by trimming the sponge and cage, but obviusly too thin will strangle the carb. The other challenge will be to find a way to mount it on the carb. You could cut a round hole a bit smaller, say 20mm, than the inlet diameter, then cut lots of radial slots round the circumference, 10mm deep, then bend each out at right angles. This would let the filter base slot over the carb inlet with a jubilee clip around the all the bent down bits to fix it to the carb. Perhaps some tape around this would then make an air tight seal. The filter could be mounted upside down so that the dome nuts are underneath, leaving a totally smooth upper surface.
  13. Bit late to this topic.... I attach a couple of snaps from my car. The second is the standard pedals, to see the standard spacing, yours look to have an offset brake pedal, but that could be perspective. The first is from above with the pedals installed. You see that the throttle is seperate, not installed, so could be moved easily in all directions. What is not easy is changing the height or spacing of the clutch/brake pedals. The clutch quadrant position is fixed by the release mechanism in the cable guide, and the brake pedal top by the alignment of the master cylinder rod. Moving the whole assembly up is theoretically possible, with spacers, but the whole top cover (not shown) would need to be raised, all the brake pipes extended, and then not so high as for the servo or fluid reservoir to hit the bonnet. Lowering the floor and/or altering the pedals is going to be easier, although shortening pedals will of course alter the leverage and range of motion somewhat, e.g. shorter clutch pedal would be harder to release smoothly.
  14. Oh, just look at the S7 build manual, (I have an Exmo) and there is a small difference, the routing of the S7 cable looks to be through the sloping panel as shown in the build manual that I attached before in a different thread https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/50972-s7-handbrake-cable/#comment-413125
  15. Have a look at this diagram, of the Sierra rear subframe from above. See, the cable route is pretty much symmetric, left to right. From the wheel backplate on top of the trailing arm and then through a hole in a flat plate part of the subframe really close to the pinion UJ (not shown here), so you have to imagine the prop shaft between the loop in the cable, out of frame bottom right to the pinion flange (shown). On the Sierra the nylon adjusters use a bracket from the body, but on your car the adjusters use the aformentioned holes in the flat part of the subframe. Out of frame there is an exposed loop of inner cable that goes through a metal yoke. The centre of the yoke is attached to a single rod that goes to the bottom of the handbrake. When the handbrake is applied the yoke moves forward and tightens the cable, if the yolk is properly lubricated any difference in L/R tension will be equalised by the cable slipping through the yoke. Because the cable is shorter than the one shown here, the yoke will be really close to and just above the prop and UJ, just inside the hole through which the prop appears from the transmission tunnel. If you use the "cut the cable in the middle" method of fitting then whatever you use to rejoin the ends has to fit in this restricted space between where the cable comes through the subframe and the yolk, without fouling the UJ or preventing enough slippage through the yolk to equalise the R/L tension. If you shorten by removing one of the end pips, then you have to be very careful to pre thread the items along the length of the cable before you weld on the new pip. Hope this helps.
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