Sparepart

I am thinking (always risky), my car is "C" reg (1985), however just like for IVA, the V5C shows date of first reg as January 2000 (SVA date). I wonder if I can now purchase a personalised number for any year up to 2000 (that would be a V reg car) .... it would give me more choice of numbers ... I'm assuming that when a different reg is put on a car they only check that you are not trying to put on a plate thats for a year newer than the date of first reg?

I am attaching two docs, extracts from the manual, first is the spec of degrees advance etc.. for Pintos and the second is what you do, assuming that you are using the original ECU. Pinto-Ignition-Timing.pdfPinto-Ignition-Timing-Procedure.pdf

Perhaps you can obtain the Haynes manual for the Capri donor, it will have the wiring diagrams and colour codes of the wires. If there was no fog light then it will be apparent from the diagrams. Getting a copy of the manual would/will be useful for other questions about what wire does what that will probably arise.

Do a bit of digging on the web, the link below appears to be an example of what you are looking for, I looked no further, there may be other suppliers that have similar catalogues. https://www.frap-oem.com/technical-catalogue/?lang=en

I have the modified original Sierra wiper motor with the original loom, so like you have multi speed and park etc .... there are a couple of challenges when you use the Sierra wipers, I should mention, because they will not crop up with the Lucas wipers. 1. the Sierra wiper motor was designed to live outside of the passenger compartment, ahead of the bulkhead, thus has no need for any water proofing seal where the wiper shafts poke through the holes in that grill that runs along the under the windscreen of the Sierra. If you fit these wipers behind the bulkhead then you need to waterproof the shafts where they poke through the scuttle. You will have to figure out how to do this yourself. 2. I found that as standard the Sierra wipers park to the right and its hard to get them to both park neatly down, so one gets a bit in the way when looking through the screen (for the driver that is), so a modification to the way in which the driving arm attaches to the motor is required to have them park out of the way on the left. Unless of couse the kit that you bought included a solution for these challenges.

Perhaps the link below will help, apparently early blocks had 3 and later only 2, however the later block still lets you use 3. Read the blurb in the product description. https://www.retroford.co.uk/product/standard-timing-belt-kit/

If the Sierra loom was from a model up to 1987, then both dip and main use the same earth. I think that you probably have a sealed beam unit ? with the three spade connectors, in which case make sure that the contacts of the spades are nice and clean however since you swapped them then they probably have scraped cleaner by now. If its a bulb holder then youcan try swapping the holders?. The Main beam is a white wire the RHS one runs from fuse 15, the dip is a yellow wire, the RHS runs from fuse 17. Check the contacts on either side of the fuse holders. The LHS fuses are 14 and 16 resp, so you could measure the resistances from the fuse to the bulb connector on each side to see how they compare.

Are you considering the purchase of a four wheel drive car and replacing the engine ? For example a cheap Audi TT as per the link below. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202203053231965

I agree, if the top plate is too low it could even block the carb. Years and years ago when I was a "boy racer" I took the filter off altogether and plonked a conical tube made from a yoghurt carton on the carb inlet, it made a great sucking noise on full throttle. just did not care about nasty thinks being drawn into the engine I guess.

I dont have the same carb, however I bought a "Universal" pancake filter which was not very thick, it does not foul the bonnet. The drawback is that the surface area through which the air is drawn is limited, so the filter represents a hinderance to the ease with which air enters the manifold. This reduces the power of the engine. For this reason I am not totally happy with it, so am looking to reduce the restriction, by increasing the surface area of the filter, perhaps obtaining a much larger diameter pancake or making a large bore pipe manifold to bolt on top of the carb to which I will connect a wide pipe to a conical air filter mounted forward of the engine where the air intake is cooler. I attach some snaps of the filter that I am going to replace to show the sort of thing that can be done, just as a start to get the car on the road.

I am 46 minutes away from The Chalet, however the Exmo is not going to be on the road until later in the year. I'll keep this in mind till then.

This topic has come up before. I did a simple search for "Brake" and "Servo" and near the top of the hits was the exact same question. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/48518-brake-servo-touching-manifold Browsing the others it looks like there have been several solutions, just fit a Ford Ka master cylinder, use the Sierra master without a servo. Have a look there is a wealth of information in past topics.

Here is a link to a site where you can download a copy of the service and repair manual for the Sierra, you might find it useful for lots of questions that you might have. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat/ The wiring diagram for an 1988 model for lights is on page 13-40 (Diagram 2), there you can see the dip beam relay (37). You could check if the relay is the problem by making the connection that the relay would make by connecting pin 87 to pin30 which will provide +12v to the yellow wire that runs to the bus bar for both fuses 3 and 4. Each of these fuses should be 10 amps, so the relay needs to switch 20 amps. I'll pass on what a "continuous" relay is. I have a similar circuit, and have purched a fusebox that contains the sort of relay you need. It is rated at 30 amps for the switch when energised, and 40 amps for the switch when not energised (using the centre pin 87a, which is not connected in this application) I have measered the resistance between pins 86 and 85 and it is 80 ohms. Hope this helps. P.S. I looked at Halfords and this link is for the sort of relay you could try. https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-hef557-relay-12v-30a-5-pin-184161.html

You say the council have approved. I assume that you have checked for applications and approvals on their web site ?, I went to https://planning.leicester.gov.uk/ and searched at 9 Welford Place (for example) to uncover application number 20142317 for a change of use that was approved. For most applications you can see all the documentation, including any letters of objection, and the decisions of any any other parties (like parish councils) that might get involved. If you can't find a change of use approval at the property address then I would contact the council formally, be letter to enquire on what grounds they have permitted the change of use. It might be that it was publicised using notices through your letter box or pinned to the property boundary giving notice of the application, and you did not object.

I think that in order to run a business from a property that was only used as a residency previously, a change of use would be need to be approved by the planning authority. This is what a local in in my area had to do in order to use part of a garden as a car park. See the link below. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/9/change_of_use