Sparepart

Here are a series of snaps, that shows the path I followed. As you have found the brackets are thick and hard to bend. So I started by making copies in thin mild steel, from the sides of an old desktop PC case. I practised the shaping process with these so that they fitted nicely. Then using one of those curve guages, with the sliding prongs, like a comb, I copied the curve of the scuttle at the centre of the brackets. Then with a jig saw I cut out several curves in dense plywood and bolted them together to make a solid former that I could use to help shape the curve. I then used this with cla

The TWO bends that are made in these flat brackets are nearer the top of the trangle, so if there is any angle change between the leading edge and the base it is quite small. It is a pity that you have flattened the old brackets, as you could have used these to compare the bends that you will make in the new ones. I have recently had to do this on an Exmo, where in the virgin scuttle there are no pre-drilled mounting holes. Advice above about the distance from screen top means that you would need to mount the screen to check, which is going to be cumbersome unless you have a second pair of hel

S7 builders will soon answer your question I am sure. In the meantime, on the Exmo where the lamp is into an almost box section, there is access from directly below. If you also have access from below the you can use a "basin wrench".

I have a digital copy (pdf) of the Haynes manual. I am wary about distributing it to anyone because of copyright laws. However, I have tracked down an enthusiast's site in Finland, where the Sierra was sold as a Taunus (I think).... anyway below is a link to two pdf files on the web site, both in English, one is the Sierra Service and repair manual and the other the type 9 gearbox manual. I just tried them a moment ago, they work for me. Hope this helps. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat

Looking at the contents list in the kit these white bits are "Rear main cap chocks" I use this as a Google search and among the hits I see two useful images:-

Kieran, I think that you might be slightly hi-jacking this thread although I am no afficianado of the protocols here. It might be better to start a seperate thread for this discussion. Have you made use of the search facilities here ? I did just now, I made a search for three words and selected the search option to have ALL words present the words were Exmo front strut. The search turned up 32 hits, and one of them seems to discuss your question in some detail. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/27038-exmo-suspension/page/3/&tab=comments#comment-323081 Good luck, I a

P.S. I just measured the resistance across the unit, between the two black leads and its Zero, and between either black lead and the mounting bracket its infinite. So it is not a ballast resistor. The 73 ohms must be in series with the condensor, so I might add a resistor in the repacement. P.P.S. There is one on sale on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-RS-Cosworth-ignition-coil-resistor/224393688484?epid=28003500454&hash=item343ee7f5a4:g:bscAAOSwAQJgPUJc OR. I think that this new BOSCH part should do but will need a small mod to the connector to wire it in

I have the same potential challenge, the leads to/from the coil supressor are in a bad state. I have done a bit of research on this subject. There are two conflated things in some of the previous posts here. The two things are (1) a Ballast Resistor and (2) a Supressor. There is a nice piece of explanation on the Burton site that covers (1). https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ignition-systems.html Reading this I do not believe the unit in your picture is a Ballast Resistor because the ignition on my Sierra is ESCII, i.e has no points. In any case this can be

Might be useful to know when it last run ok, was it idle for a while and now won't start or was it running fine yesterday ?

Do you mean the Ice Warning Sender? If so then I dont have it connected. In fact I have removed all the wiring that is related solely to the Graphic Display and Trip Computer. On my loom there are two temperature sensors, one is bolted into the engine block for the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster, the other is on the inlet manifold and is for the temp inputs to the ECU.

Why is the headrest at an angle ? do you drive with your head slanting ? or perhaps so tall that you twist your head to the left to keep out of the wind?

I agree, crude but functional, I should have said. I forgot about the plastic sleeves, they are in the small pile stuff I removed when I dissasembled the mechanism, phew!.

I have a fuel sender on the table in front of me. The Ohms between the pins (numbered as above) and the earth post are as follows:- Pin1 float at top (full) = 21 Pin1 float at bottom (empty) = 176 Pin2 top = 200 Pin2 bottom = 67 Pin3 top = 183 Pin 3 bottom = 183 These "top" and "bottom" positions are with the float moved by hand and obviously out of the tank, and without the plug from the loom connected. Also the sender is an old one from the 1986 donor so the rheostat will have worn somewhat, never the less the values match niduncan's, more or less.

Thanks, yes the BMC wipers are very different and probably a better setup both for fitting and weather proofing, however like they say on Mastermaind "I have started so I will finish" with the Sierra wipers. The pictures just above are great. I notice that there is only just enough of the spindle shaft protruding. With the arm installed, the leading edge of the nut cover dips a tiny bit under the scuttle. Weather seal is very simple (although, forgive me for this) a bit crude, I assume the Sikaflex was allowed to cure and then when the wipers were next turned on the spindles broke free. OR -

Hey! thank you all for so many suggestions, the video link is for a 2B? not an Exmo, I have the video for the Exmo, it covers all the same stuff about windscreen construction and modifying the Sierra wipers etc, but sadly nothing about mounting under the scuttle, the kit should have come with a tube of "Deep Heat" to aleviate the back pain. I like the suggestion of taking even more material from the top edge of the brackets, I was afraid to cut into the alloy of the spindle mounts (the big round bits on the mushroom shaped part in the photo) however I do now have a spare modified motor and arm