Sparepart

The answer to your second question is yes, if you scrap a vehicle the V5 must be handed in at the ATF (Authorized Treatment Facility) you only keep the yellow part of the V5 as for a sale or transfer. This is all covered in the official documentation at https://www.gov.uk/scrapped-and-written-off-vehicles. If a registered vehicle is not scrapped or written off then someone must either pay duty or have a SORN in place. Given this, I can't see how the actual donor V5 can be part of registering a kit car, although of course a photo copy or scan could be retained by you.

I attach below a pdf that has a colour diagram of the lighting circuits. The steering column switch shows up as items 35 and 36 which are housed in the same unit and share contacts. So looking at this we can answer your questions about contacts as follows:- 54. Live via Fuse 9 from ignition switch posn 2 and 3 30. Live direct from battery 15. Live un-fused power from the ignition switch posn 2 and 3 31.- Can't see this on the column switch (35/36) it is the earth connection on the indicator flasher relay. If the one you see on the column switch has brown wire the its probably an earth. 56a. Feeds fuses 14 and 15, Main beam (also driving lights relay which you most likely dont have) 56b. Feeds fuses 16 and 17, Dip beam (possibly a dip beam relay which you most likey dont have) 55. Think that might be the horn. 58. Feeds fuses 18 and 19, Side lights, number plate light etc. H is power from the Hazard warning swich, on top of column. L. and R. are the Left and Right power to the LHS and RHS indicator bulbs from the flasher relay via pin 49a. The frantic clicking of the flasher unit is most likely either a bad bulb or bad earth to the bulbs. The flasher unit uses the current flowing through it to heat a bi metal strip, that then breaks the contact until it cools down and then makes contact again etc, it is wired in parallel to the flasher bulbs, and has its own earth (see diagram) so if the bulb circuit goes to hight resistance, more current flows through the flasher and it heats up quicker and operates more often. Sierra-Lights-Wires.pdf

Looks like they are screwed into a piece of threaded tube that crudely welded to the frame. There is corosion around the tube base and it looks like moisture could get in there. So most likely the end of the thread at the base of the tube has rusted and expanded so that now it has to cut a thread through the rust as it unscrewed. I would give both ends a dose of wd40 and then slowly increase the amount unscrewed by turning till it stops then screwing back in a bit, then out a bit more, then in again etc until a thread is cut thruough the rusty bit.

Also you might try starting and running the engine with the alternator disconnected.

Maybe you have checked out the following thread there is a long list of things to look at and a final resolution of a problem very much like yours. https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/126981-air-con-clutch-not-engaging-pressure-relay-okay/

I found this topic very interesting, so did a bit of digging and soon found the reason. When the same coil is used to generate the two sparks the plugs are wired in series with the secondary coil between the two plugs. The current flow for the spark starts in the engine block, travels from the outer part of one plug to the central electrode, then through the secondary winding to the central electrode of the other plug and back to the block via the outer part of the plug. This difference in electron flow through each plug means that the erosion behaviour in each is different, one plug has +ve central electrode other has -ve central electrode, so the central electrode metal alloy is different. The diagram below makes it all clear.

In the Sierra donor car that I used, the ignition system had two things not mentioned so far in this thread. I think both were to try and prevent noise on the AM/FM radio and also protect the early form of electronic ignition. The first was a galvanised steel shroud fitted tightly around the top of the distributor, where the rotor arm whizzes around, the shroud had/has a very visible earth strap to the main body of the distributor. This is a ford part, but it's somewhere in one of my bits piles, and I can't find any references to it on the web, I'll try and find it. I attach a photo of one from a different distributor so you can see what I mean. Anyway I assume that this shroud helps remove some of the EMI associated with the small sparks that jump the gap between the rotor arm and the pick up pegs in the cap. I would think that this gap has to be significant to allow for a worn distributor shaft. The second device is not for EMI, it serves to remove voltage spikes in the loom caused by the primary winding of the ignition coil. This takes the form of a capacitor connected between the +ve connection on the coil and earth. The Ford part number on mine is 71HM-12A 019-A2A it is rated at 2.2 micro farad 110v.

I have a cunning plan. Would you go along with the idea of concentrating on each of the bits of kit in turn and in isolation?. The aim would be to deduce what each device is capable of, what function each of the connectors serves, and whether or not each device is working correctly. Then armed with this knowledge we should be able to work out a wiring diagram to achieve what you want to do, within the limits of the devices of course. This would mean you doing all sorts of tests using a multi-meter and reporting the results, which may in turn suggest further tests. I don't know how "electrics" savvy you are, so you might have to put up with what might seem patronizing questions occasionally. If you'd like to give it a go, then the first question is simple, will you list all the devices that you believe are involved in this project, I mean everything that has wires going to it or connectors on, for example "2 actuators, 1 push button, 1 key fob", don't include anything that you have added, as they might be red herrings. Oh and yes I assume you have a multi-meter, capable of measuring DC voltage in the 0-20V range and resistance in the 0-2K ohm range, if it also has an audible continuity function so much the better.

First off, like Nelmo says we don't see many questions like this. However there's no harm in asking the questions. If possible do you have any details regarding the manufacturer and model of the bits, any clues like part numbers or names on the bits ?... I sort of assume you do since you say that you have been watching "everything on line" ... so any links to what you have watched?. One thing I notice on one of the hand crafted circuit diagram is that the actuaters appear to have one lead connected to earth. I think you will find that the two wires to the actuator are meant to be used as reverse polarity inputs. That is to say current through in one direction will lock and then reverse direction for unlock. So in the diagram showing a lead to earth the actuators are only going to operate to lock or unlock but not both, and judging by the written comment it looks like they only unlock.

I am assuming that the pictures are looking down on the header tank of the radiator ?, personally I hve not seen one like this before. Anyway, if it is the header tank then you have noticed the small outlet/inlet on the RHS. If there is no filler with pressure cap on the unseen part of the header, then this small pipe is probably where a seperate header tank is connected. It would be somewhere in the engine bay mounted higher than the higest point of the engine water jacket. It's probably plastic and has a pressure cap.

I have a suggestion. Find the engine code of youre blacktop and then search again for info using the code. You might even find some information by searching the magnificent archives of this site. For example, your next question is "Where do I find the engine code?" and guess what, we already have a thread here about this:- https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/32675-zetec-blacktop-engine-number/ Then you might pick up info on the web such as:- https://www.carrepairdata.com/service/repair/manual/eng/ford/focus/2_0-16v-zetec-e/1998-2004/eddb__eddc__eddd__eddf/1988/96/ I don't know, but perhaps some spare part sites specify applicability by engine code. Hope this helps.

Thanks for that. The £13 KA master cylinder arrived. It's for a MK2 KA. It looks like its not a repairable item, no circlip holding the piston in, also it features one of those tiny trapped ball bearings that is probably some form of pressure relief. The diameter of the ring on the mounting surface is quite large. On the plus side the two output ports would be on the side away from the exhaust manifold. The diameter of the bore is not obvious. Googling away for more info it appears that on the KA the two outlets are used for diagonally opposed brakes, and there are two possible bores 20 and 21 mm. So on the face of it this might not be the best candidate. I am going to continue with trying to fit it, however am busy web surfing for other possibilities, preferable with 19 mm bore.

I'm rebuilding the Exmo after 17 years under a tarp. I'm re fitting the brake servo and master cylinder, the ones from the donor Sierra. I'd forgotten how close to the exhaust manifold it all gets. I stripped the master cylinder to find a sorry state of gunge and corrosion. The bore is so-so but the rubbers and springs are shot. I could buy a repair kit, however I suspect it would not last long. Getting a whole new master cylinder (Lucas/Girling Part No. 74066315) is prooving elusive. So I am going to try fitting a Ford KA master cylinder without a servo. Searching our archives here there are plenty of mentions of this having been done, however no specific information with part numbers and instructions. Does anyone here have such information that they are willing/able to share ?...... I have bought a cheap used "KA master cylinder" on eBay, (waiting for delivery), and will soon start trying to make it fit.

The answer to your question is NO, you don't always need a donor car. IMHO it just depends on how much money you are prepared to spend. Do that first. At one end of the scale buy a complete kit from Caterham, with little mechanical knowledge and a few free weekends you can be on the road in no time. On the other end buy Ron Champion's book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-Sports-Little-£250/dp/0854299769 and learn how to do the mechanicals/design and meet IVA requirements and get parts from many donor cars and in SEVERAL years you might be on the road if you have the tenacity to complete your mission. In between these two extremes, just Google "UK kit car manufacturers" and you will see many choices try https://www.totalkitcar.com/uk/uk-manufacturers/. Try and look at the build manual of something you like, see if you feel it's within your skills, think about the cost, and make your choice. Good luck.

Just to be pedantic the part number is QCC1585.