Sparepart

I just have to comment to add agreement with what the others are saying. As an Exmo builder and owner I would say that only a masocist would try to put one together today and get it through approval. There are parts of the kit that would be saleable, GRP, front shocks and springs, and there might be a reconditioned steering rack, and even a windscreen could be wanted. However you might end up just disposing of the bodyshell. If it's a stainless shell you might find an Exmo owner with a zinc plated steel shell that wants to swap over as a project. Not sure if that would be legal ? The donor Sierra could be worth something, I read "Practical Classics" magazine, they have cars of that age in their free ads pages ... who know? Whatever, I wish you luck, it can't be easy given the circumstance of the disposal.

Googling what fuse ratings are used on a "classic" mini, gives this link:- https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/251403-fuses-by-location-circuits-covered-data/ You will note that on later models the WW fuse is 15 amps, what you are now using.

One small piece of information - You will need to measure the thickness of the anti roll bar, there are three dimensions, 24mm, 26mm and 28mm, obviously the two bushes that hold the anti roll bar in place need to be for the thickness of yours. Maybe I should use the word "diameter" not "thickness".

Try this link. It's a picture from a manual, supposed to be Transit 92+. http://www.ok.eclipse.co.uk/pictures/transit/92onlightschem.jpg

The DVLA website does cover this, you need to write a letter and ask them for a VIN. See this link: https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval You write to: K and R DVLA Swansea SA99 1ZZ

Try these links on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151286890101 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153525812726

You ask "how do people learn this". IMO we don't normally act pro-actively as you are seeking to do. We tend to "learn" by fixing our own problems when they arise or as part of implementing a "project" like building a whole car or making an upgrade to an existing one. Much depends on your background knowledge of electricity in general, did you study Physics in school, do you understand the basics of simple circuits, OHMs law, relays, electromagnets etc.... if not then why not pay around £50 for a kids educational kit on "Electricity and Magnetism". Have fun as you put together basic circuits, understand how electricity behaves. Then get your hands on the circuit diagrams for the various parts of a cars electrical systems, youll find these on line, in loads of places, concentrate on a bit at a time, for example, how is the ignition spark generated ?, how does a light flash, why does a fuse melt ?. Then, when, in the real world, you face a real problem, like the rather general question "The guages don't work" you will instinctively know how to go about looking in more detail at the various wires and sensors that might be involved. This is just my advice for what it is worth.

Oh! you just posted the fact it was fixed while I was writing this ..... so no need to read it. (post deleted)

Is it possible to remove the main motor from the housing and see if there is a bolt or fixture that is hidden, i.e. goes into the solenoid from within the housing. I guess if there is then a special spanner might be needed ...just a thought.

You want thoughts or comments, well, before you get involved with a Robin Hood sevenesque vehicle you will have to forget about "conformity", each car has been assembled from a kit of parts that required a great deal of fettling by the builder. These cars were not bolted together over a few weekends from carefully crafted parts that were guaranteed to fit with each other, like you might expect from Westfield or Caterham, but then they did not cost anywhere as much as a "top end" kit either. Even in your old days with Minis, the design, and fit of bits and pieces was guaranteed off the shelf and there was a Haynes manual for reference. With a Robin Hood you will enter a new world of engineering challenges. At least by buying an already assembled example which has an MOT etc you will save much toil. This is balanced by little knowledge of how well the builder managed to overcome the assembly challeges. So my thought is, think about this before you invest hard earned cash, owning a Robin Hood is a challenge that many find very rewarding, including myself, I also like Marmite.

Oh, yes, in the small print above the box on the inspection form, it says "Design Weights", I should have gone to Specsavers..... in fact I now have an apointment for the 6th... so sorry, I don't know how much the car weighs after all.

At the time of SVA my EXMO weights were front axle = 519KG rear axle 519KG thats with spare wheel, fullish tank and myself in the car, yes, exactly the same weights front and back, thats why I remember. So total = 1038KG a bit heavy I guess, perhaps too many Pizzas before the test?

You might want to consider purchasing a steering column with the switch and barrel etc. For exampe: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Genuine-Ford-Sierra-Mk2-steering-column-barrel-and-key-/373650618339 Cost £50 .... too expensive ?

There is part of a previous thread that might help regarding the method that uses fishing line, look at this:- https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49253-another-exmo-/page/5/

A million years ago when I was a poor student I ran a Ford Anglia on a series of 109E engines from a scrap yard, only a three bearing crank, very very worn, but the big end knock was more of a grumbling sound rather that what sounds like a "clattering" in this case ..... anyway ....in all cases the oil pressure warning light would flicker on/off when idling and hot. What is happening with the oil pressure warning light in this case ??