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Everything posted by Sparepart

  1. Nice video, a lot of work has been done to get it that far, on a quick glance, the car needs front cycle wings (do you have all the unfitted stuff, like wings, brackets etc?) Bonnet catches, front indicators, as said no need for windscreen. Needs wing mirrors and rear view mirror. Whats going on around the top edge of the rear drivers side wheel arch, it looks like something sharp there. we cant see the standard of work under the bonnet, things like fuel line fixing, electrical cable fixing, If not original wheel/tyre sizes, is the speedo now accurate? all this sort of stuff is well within the capabilities of a home mechanic, roll up your sleeves and buy a big tub of Swarfega.
  2. So it looks like it could be anywhere as long as its on something fundamentaly attached to the chassis. What I also meant to say was, that when the VIN was punched into the floor panel a metal "dolly" was placed on the underside, otherwise along with the VIN the panel would have a nice dent/depression. You might be thinking of an engraving, but if you do have a punched VIN on that cross member, that nice flat surfaced cross member, be careful not to create a dent. Sorry if this sounds patronising, it's not intended.
  3. Please see my above post:- 7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side of the vehicle when viewed from the rear (see Notes 6, 8, 9 & 12). Your suggested place looks like middle front to me.
  4. Have a look at the current IVA manual, section 18. (I some copy info below) , I took my car to a local garage and had them stamp the VIN into the flat floor pan near the drivers side edge. Also I had them stamp the VIN onto a similar thicknes piece if SS (2mm I think) which I then fashioned into a little plate that I pop riveted onto the bulkhead near the battery, so it is easily readable when the bonnet is off. Read the manual, the "main" plate has to be fixed pretty permanently, If I had a tubular construction I would not try and stamp the crved surface, I would stamp a plate and then weld it to a piece of the tube on RHS (as viewed from behind) near the drivers thigh area so that it can easily be uncovered for inspection, like pulling a flap of carpet back. 18 Statutory Plates 7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side of the vehicle when viewed from the rear (see Notes 6, 8, 9 & 12). 8. The Stamped in VIN must be placed in a clearly visible and accessible position by a method such as hammering, stamping, etching (metal chassis) or embossed, moulded into the structure (glass fibre or carbon fibre chassis) so that it cannot be obliterated or deteriorate. 9. The VIN number must consist of 17 digits with the information shown in a single line (except for mass-produced vehicles where the use of two lines is permissible) (see Note 7). 10. Capital letters and numerals must be used for the VIN 11. There must not be any gaps large enough to insert extra characters between the characters for the VIN shown on the manufacturer’s plate or stamped into the vehicle (see Note 4). 12. The Vehicle Identification Number on the manufacturer’s plate must be marked in characters at least 3.5mm high. 13. The characters on the manufacturer’s plate (with the exception of the Vehicle Identification Number) must be at least 2 mm high 14. The characters used for the VIN stamped into the chassis, frame or other similar structure must be at least 3.5mm high. 15. Use of the letter I, the letter O, the letter Q, dashes, asterisks and other special signs are not permitted (see Note 10)
  5. Me too, I'm in process of replacing mine and have chosen the standard rubber bushes because they are less expensive than the polyurethane sort. Also all the other bushes are standard rubber, so whats the point in having just one pair stiffer, won't it just pass stress on to the softer parts?.... weakest link in a chain etc.
  6. WoW! that is good value. I bought mine with the original kit in 1996 (24 years ago) for £22 AND they did not include the anti roll bar bushes that are circled in Kermit's picture, so £35 including the anti roll bar bushes is a real steal.
  7. Also you could look to see if the head is for unleaded. Normally, 2.0 litre heads with unleaded valve seats are stamped with 'P', 'PP', 'R' or 'RR'. Unleaded I/D for Pinto next to number 4 spark 1.6-- M,MM,N or NN 1.8-- S or SS 2.0-- P,PP,R or RR I can't remember where I got this from.
  8. Take off the air filter. When cold you should see the choke butterfly is flat across the main inlet tube. As the engine warms up the butterfly should rotate and open up the inlet, eventually becoming almost vertical, fully opening the inlet. If this does not happen then the fuel/air mixture will gradually become too rich as the engine warms causing rough running and eventually the engine stalls, usually with a strong smell of petrol in the engine bay.
  9. Without knowing what kit you have it's hard to help. The rack on my car comes from a Sierra and is bolted directly to the cross member, same as it was on the donor Sierra.
  10. If there was/is a problem with the choke giving a rich mixture then you should have lots of smoke just before it cuts out as the engine drowns. If there is the opposite problem, i.e. a fuel supply problem (blocked jet, blocked line, fuel pump failing when hot etc) then after turning over and not starting, whip out a plug and see if its wet with fuel. If it's dry then fuel supply could be an issue. However, by the sound of it, you get smoke when its finally starts, probably not a supply problem, but could look at plug anyway. Also when it turns over and doesn't start you could whip out a plug and with the lead attached check if there is a spark when the outer part is touched to earth with the engine being turned over (you need two peaple for this). You need to see a really good spark, because when the plug is in situ and under compression a spark is harder to produce, so a failing coil could produce a spark, but not at enough voltage to work in situ.
  11. It would be unusual for you to have a wiper arm connected directly to the motor. You probably have one of two mechanisms, most likely hidden under the scuttle. Obviously both types use an electric motor. In one arrangement the motor drives a crank lever that moves a solid bar back and fore, the spindles for the wiper arms each have a solid bar conecting to the one driven by the crank, it's all quite a sight to see in motion, also takes up space under the scuttle because all electrics and anything else needs to be kept clear of all the moving parts. The other sort, is much more refined, the motor also has a crank (small) that drives an Archimedes screw cable (encased in a sheath) back and fore. Anywhere along the length of this cable a spindle drive can by inserted where a small peg inserted in the screw will cause rotation as the screw moves back and fore, two such drives are inserted, one for each wiper. This type is much more compact and does not endanger surrounding fittings. Well done if you have stayed awake long enough to read this far. Most kit builders use this second kind, it is what was originaly used by BMC cars, Austin, Morris etc and most notably on the original Mini. If you currently have this type then the wiper arm is a push fit on to a splined spindle shaft header, you won't have a nut, you just pull them off, they can be hard to remove. So as pintogogo says, if you do have this Mini type of wiper then you should find what you want at the link below. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/windscreen-wash-wipe
  12. I am thinking (always risky), my car is "C" reg (1985), however just like for IVA, the V5C shows date of first reg as January 2000 (SVA date). I wonder if I can now purchase a personalised number for any year up to 2000 (that would be a V reg car) .... it would give me more choice of numbers ... I'm assuming that when a different reg is put on a car they only check that you are not trying to put on a plate thats for a year newer than the date of first reg?
  13. I am attaching two docs, extracts from the manual, first is the spec of degrees advance etc.. for Pintos and the second is what you do, assuming that you are using the original ECU. Pinto-Ignition-Timing.pdfPinto-Ignition-Timing-Procedure.pdf
  14. Perhaps you can obtain the Haynes manual for the Capri donor, it will have the wiring diagrams and colour codes of the wires. If there was no fog light then it will be apparent from the diagrams. Getting a copy of the manual would/will be useful for other questions about what wire does what that will probably arise.
  15. Do a bit of digging on the web, the link below appears to be an example of what you are looking for, I looked no further, there may be other suppliers that have similar catalogues. https://www.frap-oem.com/technical-catalogue/?lang=en
  16. I have the modified original Sierra wiper motor with the original loom, so like you have multi speed and park etc .... there are a couple of challenges when you use the Sierra wipers, I should mention, because they will not crop up with the Lucas wipers. 1. the Sierra wiper motor was designed to live outside of the passenger compartment, ahead of the bulkhead, thus has no need for any water proofing seal where the wiper shafts poke through the holes in that grill that runs along the under the windscreen of the Sierra. If you fit these wipers behind the bulkhead then you need to waterproof the shafts where they poke through the scuttle. You will have to figure out how to do this yourself. 2. I found that as standard the Sierra wipers park to the right and its hard to get them to both park neatly down, so one gets a bit in the way when looking through the screen (for the driver that is), so a modification to the way in which the driving arm attaches to the motor is required to have them park out of the way on the left. Unless of couse the kit that you bought included a solution for these challenges.
  17. Perhaps the link below will help, apparently early blocks had 3 and later only 2, however the later block still lets you use 3. Read the blurb in the product description. https://www.retroford.co.uk/product/standard-timing-belt-kit/
  18. If the Sierra loom was from a model up to 1987, then both dip and main use the same earth. I think that you probably have a sealed beam unit ? with the three spade connectors, in which case make sure that the contacts of the spades are nice and clean however since you swapped them then they probably have scraped cleaner by now. If its a bulb holder then youcan try swapping the holders?. The Main beam is a white wire the RHS one runs from fuse 15, the dip is a yellow wire, the RHS runs from fuse 17. Check the contacts on either side of the fuse holders. The LHS fuses are 14 and 16 resp, so you could measure the resistances from the fuse to the bulb connector on each side to see how they compare.
  19. Are you considering the purchase of a four wheel drive car and replacing the engine ? For example a cheap Audi TT as per the link below. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202203053231965
  20. I agree, if the top plate is too low it could even block the carb. Years and years ago when I was a "boy racer" I took the filter off altogether and plonked a conical tube made from a yoghurt carton on the carb inlet, it made a great sucking noise on full throttle. just did not care about nasty thinks being drawn into the engine I guess.
  21. I dont have the same carb, however I bought a "Universal" pancake filter which was not very thick, it does not foul the bonnet. The drawback is that the surface area through which the air is drawn is limited, so the filter represents a hinderance to the ease with which air enters the manifold. This reduces the power of the engine. For this reason I am not totally happy with it, so am looking to reduce the restriction, by increasing the surface area of the filter, perhaps obtaining a much larger diameter pancake or making a large bore pipe manifold to bolt on top of the carb to which I will connect a wide pipe to a conical air filter mounted forward of the engine where the air intake is cooler. I attach some snaps of the filter that I am going to replace to show the sort of thing that can be done, just as a start to get the car on the road.
  22. I am 46 minutes away from The Chalet, however the Exmo is not going to be on the road until later in the year. I'll keep this in mind till then.
  23. Sparepart


    This topic has come up before. I did a simple search for "Brake" and "Servo" and near the top of the hits was the exact same question. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/48518-brake-servo-touching-manifold Browsing the others it looks like there have been several solutions, just fit a Ford Ka master cylinder, use the Sierra master without a servo. Have a look there is a wealth of information in past topics.
  24. Here is a link to a site where you can download a copy of the service and repair manual for the Sierra, you might find it useful for lots of questions that you might have. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat/ The wiring diagram for an 1988 model for lights is on page 13-40 (Diagram 2), there you can see the dip beam relay (37). You could check if the relay is the problem by making the connection that the relay would make by connecting pin 87 to pin30 which will provide +12v to the yellow wire that runs to the bus bar for both fuses 3 and 4. Each of these fuses should be 10 amps, so the relay needs to switch 20 amps. I'll pass on what a "continuous" relay is. I have a similar circuit, and have purched a fusebox that contains the sort of relay you need. It is rated at 30 amps for the switch when energised, and 40 amps for the switch when not energised (using the centre pin 87a, which is not connected in this application) I have measered the resistance between pins 86 and 85 and it is 80 ohms. Hope this helps. P.S. I looked at Halfords and this link is for the sort of relay you could try. https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-hef557-relay-12v-30a-5-pin-184161.html
  25. You say the council have approved. I assume that you have checked for applications and approvals on their web site ?, I went to https://planning.leicester.gov.uk/ and searched at 9 Welford Place (for example) to uncover application number 20142317 for a change of use that was approved. For most applications you can see all the documentation, including any letters of objection, and the decisions of any any other parties (like parish councils) that might get involved. If you can't find a change of use approval at the property address then I would contact the council formally, be letter to enquire on what grounds they have permitted the change of use. It might be that it was publicised using notices through your letter box or pinned to the property boundary giving notice of the application, and you did not object.
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