Foz

Yes, as far as I know, Robin Hood started selling the Sub K kit in 2001 - assuming that this car is a Sub K then it must have been built in 2001 or later. Just to make things more confusing - the Sub K became known as the 2B/04 from 2004 - the seller describes the car as a 2B so, it might be a 2B/04 from 2004 or later. From what you are saying about registration in Germany I think you would need to get some confirmation of when it was actually built. The suspension is not a straight swap between generations. but anything is possible with them. The cost and the work involved would probably make it impractical to do any major changes unless you wanted something to keep you busy over winter ! Hope this helps, Steve

Hi Jonas, This looks like a Sub K to me, if so the kit would have been sold in 2001 or later, but the Sierra donor car may well have been a 1987 model. The quality of these cars is really dependant on how well they were built. You need to check the quality of the workmanship and make sure that the kit was built well, particularly things like brakes, steering and suspension. I don't know a great deal about the Sub K but I'm sure other people on here will be able to tell you of any weak areas on these models. Best regards, Steve

My 2B has two M12 bolts through each side. 1 through the centre of the rubber bush (although I've now removed the bush and made it solid), and a second about 60mm further back, both going through the corner plate of the chassis. I'm not sure how this relates to a 3A but I reckon M12 bolts should hold things together OK.

I found this page in the Weber manual which is generic for their carbs. I had to read it several times before it made any sense to me, but I think it answers your question. Have a read and see what you think. Steve Carb.pdf

I've just found this sales brochure in with my 2B stuff - I've never seen a real one though. Kaig.pdf

Hi Rob, PM sent, Steve

I tried to take some photos of my master cylinder today but soon realised it isn't easy to show you anything useful with everything in place ! It bolts through the front of the sierra pedal box, (where the servo was) with a couple of new bolt holes. I then had to make up a new pushrod and pipe it up. I have attached a photo of it in position to give you an idea of how it's fitted. I'm glad you're happy with your set up now and it's probably best not to let me confuse things ! All the best, Steve

Hi Rob, I'm definitely interested in this - I was planning on overhauling mine this winter. How much do you want for it ? ATB Steve

I can send you some pictures of mine but my car is a 2B, using a Sierra pedal box, so I'm not sure if it's similar to yours, or not. I fitted new rear wheel cylinders a few weeks ago and I don't think I've got all the air out so I want to try bleeding them again later this week. I can take some photos of the master cylinder while I'm at it, if it will help. Steve

Hi Andi, I'll do my best to make it - just so I can moan about the roadworks again !! Steve

Do you need the servo? I got rid of the Sierra servo and master cylinder on mine, replacing it with just the master cylinder from a KA (it's a smaller diameter bore). No problems stopping the car and a good pedal "feel". I think there are quite a few RHs out there with KA master cylinders now. Steve

I had similar seats in my 2B and bolted a length of flat bar between the harness holes on the chassis (about 30mm x 6mm flat I think). I then bolted the belts to the bar at the correct position & spacing for the holes in the seats. I have since swapped seats and harnesses which now fit differently so I can only go from memory. Hope this helps, Steve

One thought - if you have a car with a towbar (or know someone who has) it is fairly cheap to hire a car trailer for the day and collect it yourself. You only need a relatively lightweight trailer as the car is unlikely to be more than 700-800kgs - I used to hire one quite often, when taking mine to trackdays.

I think you've got the basics covered there and if you don't get it going any better it might be worth doing a compression test. If you're still struggling with it I'd suggest starting a new thread, giving as much detail of your engine as you can (carb type, ignition type, cam etc.) and maybe a short video of it running rough - there will almost certainly be somebody on here who's had the same, or a similar problem.

Hi Darrell, I think the R means there is an internal resistor inside for suppression purposes, (but I might be wrong). I'm assuming that you've got a pinto engine and I think the gaps might be a bit tight. I would have expected something like 0.8mm, but again that would depend on what sort of ignition system you're using. Does the engine run OK - if so I wouldn't worry about it.