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It looks like a coil-over, so I would normally say that you don't need to compress the spring ............. but it doesn't look like a "normal" coil-over so it might be a RH "special" in which case it might be prudent to play safe ! Sorry for not being very specific but, hopefully, somebody else will recognise it and be able to give a definite answer. Steve

Hi Harry, I can't fully make out what's on the end there but it doesn't seem to match anything in their current catalogue - have you tried contacting them directly? They're normally quite helpful. http://www.newman-cams.com/ Good luck, Steve

Hi Andi, I'm not sure what category I'm in but thanks anyway, . Same sentiments from me too

Welcome to our new members, happy new year to you all and best wishes to everyone for 2025.

That definitely doesn't look right to me. I'm no expert on blacktops but I'm sure that the bearing shouldn't move like that. Are you missing a washer or spacer from the tensioner assembly ? I certainly wouldn't start it until you've sorted it out. I'm sure somebody on here will be able to answer this better than me but you may have to wait a while for a reply because people don't visit the site as often at this time of year. Steve

Yep, figure out where about the lowest point in the spring seat is when the car's sitting level and drill a hole.

I'm sure there are a few folks on here who can offer some advice but they probably won't visit the site very often at this time of year so you might have to wait a bit for a reply. Sorry but I don't know a great deal about the Zetec engines.

Have a look at this thread - If you read through I think a Focus manual is recommended.

There used to be several people who advertised shortened sumps, one used to advertise on eBay - I have no idea if anyone still does. If you want to have a go yourself have a read of this https://nw.rhocar.org/buildtips/sump.htm You can swap a pinto sump without removing the engine, if it will come out between the chassis rails (I don't know if it will on yours) but it's a lot easier to do with the engine out and turned upside down so that all the gasket bits stay put while you bolt the sump back on.

Silver button ........................... press to test, release to detonate ??

Me again, I've just had a quick search through the forum and found some posts suggesting the early sliding pillar chassis had some differences which meant you couldn't just add the standard wishbone set-up. Have a search for sliding pillar to wishbones, there's plenty of info. but how much will help you I can't say

Hi Dan, yes the 2B wishbone chassis had box section cross pieces which the wishbones fitted to, but the original geometry was out and there were several ways people corrected it - usually with different top wishbones. The kitspares design is effectively the factory way of doing it. You'll see they also do an upgrade kit for the original wishbones. I've managed to find this picture which shows the front chassis of the original 2B wishbone model - compare it to your's to see the differences. The upgrade is normally to the top wishbone and it's connection to the hub. Chassis2.pdf

Hi Dan, If you're making new wishbones you really need to copy the later versions, not the original ones supplied by RH. The original type had incorrect geometry and gave adverse camber when cornering hard, the later design (there were several versions) corrected this. ThanasisPolitis is the area secretary for your end of the world - it might be worth dropping him a message to see if he knows any members who can help you. Steve

I don't know to any plans for the panels but somebody might. GBS (Kitspares) may be able to make you a set but I'm guessing they wouldn't be cheap. Always worth asking the question though.

I've just had another listen and Bob could well be right. Sadly, whatever it is, I think it's going to have to come apart to find out for sure.