Foz

OK, I've got a pass out 😄 I'm planning to get there midday-ish Saturday and leave Sunday afternoon. See you there 👍

Hi Callum, Do you know if he was ever a member of RHOCaR (as this club was originally known)? If so our membership secretary, Alan Richey, may be able to find some information on the car. If you have a record of the SVA test or anything relating to it's registration it might help to track down it's registration number. There may well be some members from the Manchester area who remember your grandad or his car (if he was involved with the club) but you may have to wait a while for a reply as many members don't visit the forum every day. Good luck with your search, Steve

I'll be there Al, it looks like they're really trying to put a good show on and, as you say, if we don't use it we'll lose it. Not only is it free for car & driver but it is also one of only a few shows where you can come and go as you please. I'm tempted to stay over as pre-booked camping is only £10 (or £15 on the gate), so I might see if I can get a pass out for the weekend. Anybody else fancy stopping over? Steve

Try this version (same document, different format). Steve 1799851615_Hoodtubes.pdf

Hi Jon, Yes, that looks to me like it definitely belongs on the left side of the car.

All being well I'll see you there 😀

You might be better off starting a new post and explaining your problems - I don't think "Takumi" has been on here for a few years.

Crunching or clunks into reverse sounds more like clutch drag to me - the synchro on the forward gears will cope with it but reverse is the first to complain. I'd check your clutch operation first and make sure it's fully releasing. Hope this helps, Steve

What engine do you have fitted ? The 38DGAS is generally aimed at "V" engines with each barrel feeding one side of the V although there is no reason why they can't be fitted to something else. The design is "standard" Weber - the idle jets control the mixture on part throttle and low revs whilst the main jets control the mixture at full throttle and high revs. The idle screw only controls the mixture at tick-over. There is also the pump jet which controls how much extra fuel is squirted in as the throttle is opened. You can waste many a happy hour swapping jets and trying to get it right (guess how I know) but a session on a rolling road is the best solution. However, if the car has run OK previously on this carb then the jets are probably correct. If the car has stood for a while I would recommend you strip and clean the carb as modern fuel seems to like evaporating and leaving a residue in there. Check the float height is correct as this also affects the mixture slightly. Also check your fuel pump and filters. While it's apart you can check the jets sizes. These will depend on the type & size of engine, camshaft and ignition but I would expect somewhere in the region of :- Idle jets 50, Main jets 145, air correctors 200, Emulsion f50 for a 2L pinto. Both barrels operate together so both sides should have the same jets. There are some good videos on youtube about stripping and setting up these carbs such as - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsnF-kjCxYo Hope this helps, Steve

Hi Chris, V8 Robin Hoods were not that common and tended to get attention wherever they went. I'd be surprised if there aren't one or two folks on here that can help you out with some info. If you can put some photos up it may jog people's memory. Steve

Sounds to me like you're 180 degrees out on he dizzy - firing at the right time but on the exhaust stroke, not on the compression stroke.

What model Robin Hood have you got ? What you fit and where will depend on which model you have.

If you contact Dave @ Dampertech (dampertech.co.uk) he has records of a lot of Robin Hood set-ups and can tell you what you need.

Have a look at this brochure for the Robin Hood 2B - it might help you to confirm if you have a 2B. If it is an early 2B then GBS (Great British Sportscars) may be able to help, as they still provide some support for the 2B. See the link at the top of this page, under [Useful Sites] > [GBS] 2B_brochure.pdf

Have a look at this info. on changing the cambelt - it tells you where everything should be when re-fitting. Cambelt.pdf