Foz

Welcome to you all, hopefully you'll all find something useful within the club. What must be one of the last events of the year is coming up - Steve

Hi Al, I have a pass out whoopee ! ......................... but I've also got a leaking radiator !!!!!!!!!!!! I chucked some radweld in which improved things but it still keeps dripping, I reckon it's time for a new radiator. I won't have chance to replace it before next weekend so I'll keep an eye on it this week and let you know if I think it will make it. Steve

OOH ECK! I don't think you're going to be able to use that pulley again ! One suggestion is an angle grinder with a cutting disc, cut through the pulley in line with the crankshaft, (along the keyway is the thinnest bit). When you're nearly through, support the pulley securely, put a chisel in the cut and hit it (hard). Hopefully the pulley will split and you can then pull it off. If that doesn't shift it put another cut in the pulley on the opposite side. Good luck, Steve

Yes, you have to stretch them over the trumpets - go gently, it's easy to get too enthusiastic and rip them. Don't ask how I know !!! They come in a variety of sizes and I would recommend going for the longest you can fit in between carb and side panel. As long as they were kept clean I didn't find any noticeable difference in performance.

I used to have foam filters on mine - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352081220887 Steve

The sierra clutch pedal mechanism should self adjust the cable, cutting the tube would at best do nothing, at worst it might stuff it altogether. If you lift the clutch pedal the mechanism should release the ratchet on the yellow quadrant and you should be able to move the quadrant by hand - this is how you release the tension to change the cable. By doing this you can see if it is being pulled by the pedal and can take any tension off the cable. Are you sure that the clutch cable is OK, or has it melted where it passes by the exhausts ? This is a common problem which causes the cable to stick in the outer and then it doesn't release the clutch properly. Steve

I managed to get the belt one tooth out on the pinto in my 2B. It started and ran fine but when I took it out for a run it just didn't seem to be as smooth or powerful as before. No damage done & no overheating problem with mine and the engine ran like before as soon as I put the belt right. I have no idea what the "stuff" is that you've got out of the cooling system though. Steve

Hi Al, hopefully I'll be able to make it over for this, I'll confirm a bit nearer the day. Steve

Welcome to you all - it looks like the sun has finally made it to Britain so make the most of it while you can. Steve

Takes too long ??? I have been to the same MOT garage for years with all my cars - he used to be able to do the 2B in about 15 minutes. He always said it was so easy because everything was so accessible and easy to see. In recent years we ended up standing around talking because he said it would be questioned if he completed it too soon on the computer !

That looks like a copy of an SVA certificate to me. Does your V5 have any figure for emissions ? - normally at the bottom of the front page, if so that's what it should be tested to. Does your car have an age related reg. number ? If it does and there's nothing on the V5 then I think it should go on the age of the engine (as fitted at SVA) which is 3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC for a 1987 engine. It gets even more fun with a Q plate If you can find an MOT station that's used to dealing with older (pre-ECU) cars they should sort you out.

I've also got a Haynes manual for the Sierra 82-93 - Haynes No. 0903 printed 1999 - which gives quite a bit of detailed information on stripping & rebuilding the pinto engine but nothing useful on the gearboxes, although it does cover the CVH engine (not that you need that). As IanS says, earlier print dates are worth looking for as they should give you more info. Like Tickover, I also got mine off eBay for only a few quid. Steve

A lot of guys have made or modified their own doors & roof - have a search through the forum for "doors" and you'll find loads of topics which might help you, or maybe give you some ideas, such as this one :-

Just been to book in for this and realised that they want a £7 fee to exhibit your car - I miss read Ian's post assuming that the £7 was for passengers or visitors. I'm sorry but I'm not prepared to pay to exhibit my car. They wouldn't have much of a show if people like us weren't prepared to spend time & money taking our cars to the show, for their customers to look at & put sticky fingerprints on, and if they think it's OK to charge us for the privilege, them I'm afraid I have to disagree. Right, rant over, but just to confirm - I'm sorry but I won't be going to this show now. Steve

Hi Neill, PM sent, Steve

No takers ? I'll try and book myself in over the weekend so if anyone else is interested book yourself in and we'll maybe meet there. Steve

Hi Neill, I have a pair of Weber 45s that I bought to replace the 40s on my 2B but I ended up selling the car before I got them fitted. These are the ones - https://fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=398&search=DCOE-152-1960006000 I was planning on putting them up for sale but I just haven't got round to it yet. If you are interested let me know and I'll check so I can tell you exactly what I've got as there are some other bits and bobs that I bought to go with them. I can also tell you that I won't be asking as much for them as that advert on your post. Steve

Just checking how many folks are interested in this - it looks like club stands are still available but we need at least 5 entries. Otherwise we can book in as individuals but might end up spread about the place. Stick a note on if you're interested. Steve

What a cracking way to spend a Sunday morning. Thanks to Phil for the education and underground trip. I've walked round that area many, many times in the past and never knew what was under my feet. Here's another photo (when it had stopped raining) with Phil modelling the latest in protective head gear - I'm not sure if it's suitable for some of the smaller tunnels ! Thanks to all and hopefully we can do it again sometime.

As far as I can remember (old age is a wonderful thing ................. what was I on about ????) oh yes, I'm pretty sure both types of pumps are the same block side. Can you drop the bottom hose off the radiator and then pour water through the rad ? If it only dribbles out of the bottom your rad's blocked. With no thermostat in there you can probably also pour water down the top hose and see how quick it comes out of the bottom hose to get an idea of the flow through the block.

I have permission to come out and play too! My car does have a habit of attracting the rain so I'll apologise for it in advance

They look like the ones I've used before which bolt onto the inlet and exhaust manifold studs, (manifolds off the engine) one at the front and one at the back. I can't remember which way round but the ones I had only fitted in one place so you couldn't get it wrong. Steve

Got my ticket - I can only make it on the Saturday. Steve

Not far up the road from me - definitely interested in this, just got to check I can get a pass out !! Steve

Are you sure the fuel is running back to tank ? I always had an electric pump on Pinto in my 2B but I found that the heat from the engine tended to evaporate the fuel in the carbs when I parked it up and I had to wait for the pump to fill it before starting. I also found that this would also "gum up" the carbs after a while. With the electric pump not only could I make sure the carbs were full before I tried to start it, but also, if the engine was good and hot when I put it in the garage I used to switch the pump off and leave the engine idling until it emptied the float chambers and stopped. This meant there was little fuel left in there to evaporate and no more residue in the carbs. Hope this helps, Steve