Foz

Silver button ........................... press to test, release to detonate ??

Me again, I've just had a quick search through the forum and found some posts suggesting the early sliding pillar chassis had some differences which meant you couldn't just add the standard wishbone set-up. Have a search for sliding pillar to wishbones, there's plenty of info. but how much will help you I can't say

Hi Dan, yes the 2B wishbone chassis had box section cross pieces which the wishbones fitted to, but the original geometry was out and there were several ways people corrected it - usually with different top wishbones. The kitspares design is effectively the factory way of doing it. You'll see they also do an upgrade kit for the original wishbones. I've managed to find this picture which shows the front chassis of the original 2B wishbone model - compare it to your's to see the differences. The upgrade is normally to the top wishbone and it's connection to the hub. Chassis2.pdf

Hi Dan, If you're making new wishbones you really need to copy the later versions, not the original ones supplied by RH. The original type had incorrect geometry and gave adverse camber when cornering hard, the later design (there were several versions) corrected this. ThanasisPolitis is the area secretary for your end of the world - it might be worth dropping him a message to see if he knows any members who can help you. Steve

I don't know to any plans for the panels but somebody might. GBS (Kitspares) may be able to make you a set but I'm guessing they wouldn't be cheap. Always worth asking the question though.

I've just had another listen and Bob could well be right. Sadly, whatever it is, I think it's going to have to come apart to find out for sure.

Ooh 'eck, that doesn't sound too sweet. It sounds a bit like a little end knock to me. First question, what oil are you using ?

Hi Jon, Do you know what make of coil-overs you have fitted ? RH & GBS used to do a set of GAZ ones for the 2B (don't know if they still do). If yours has a set of GAZ ones I think you should be able to get new bushes for them. Dave at DamperTech should be able to help 01709 703992. If they're not GAZ post up the make and somebody may well be able to help. Steve

Both Adrian Flux and Heritage support the club so it's worth giving them a call and asking the question.

I don't know of any build manuals but this might help

It's not uncommon for Sierra stalks to play up, especially if they haven't been used for a while. Switch cleaner often cures them. It's well worth getting hold of a Haynes manual for the Sierra, there's usually a few on eBay for reasonable money. I've attached a copy of wiring details up to 1987 which might help, items 94 &102 are the stalks. Good luck, Steve Wiring.pdf

Hi Roberto, The kit for your 2B was supplied by Robin Hood Sports Cars who were eventually bought up by GBS - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robin_Hood_Engineering The 2B required quite a lot of input from the builder to make the kit in to a car so you are unlikely to find 2 the same however, I think most of the nosecones should be the same (assuming it is an original Robin hood one). GBS supported the 2B for a number of years and so they would be the best people to ask how easy it is to fit a Zero grille in to a 2B. Sorry if this isn't a straight answer but hopefully it helps. Steve

I'm not sure you're going to get any updates in the near future, Ant_Harvey hasn't been on the site since June 3rd. If you've got any questions shout 'em up - chances are somebody on here will have some answers. Steve

Hi George, Have a read through this post :- Hopefully it will give you a few answers to your question. Steve

The pinto in my 2B had a CR of about 10:1 and ran nicely with a Kent FR32 set at 108 degrees. As they are all balanced I suspect your low compression figure may be a red herring, I think I got a compression figure around 13 bar (190ish psi) but I had Webers not bike carbs and its easy to open them fully. Have you tried what Trev suggested ?

Does it run any better now or are you still having the same problems ?

Hi Steve, I'm just finishing off the latest edition of the club mag. & I'll happily stick a little article in for you - it might help. If you want to PM me with any info. you have & maybe photos ? Steve

I've had problems with distributors in the past where the body of the distributor doesn't make good contact with the engine block (normally due to a bit of corrosion), and also there is usually a flexible wire from the points (sensor) mounting plate, connecting it to the body of the dizzy, which I have seen broken. A quick resistance check from the mounting plate in the dizzy to the negative of the battery should read pretty much short circuit - if it does then all's good and ignore my ramblings

Interference often happens when you've got a bad earth somewhere, trouble is it can be a real pain to find. I'd check any ground connections you can find. Don't forget the dizzy itself, you should have a good ground from it all the way back to the battery -ve but I've often found some resistance between the points (or module) and the block. Of course, now that I've said that it will probably be something totally different

Hi there, where abouts are you? - stick your location on your profile and somebody close might be willing to come and have a look at it with you (for tea and biscuits of course). Also it might help if you can post up any drawings or pictures you have to help explain what you have. Hopefully some folks on here will have a few ideas for you to try.

It is possible to get the cambelt out one or 2 teeth on a pinto and it will still run, although not too well - don't ask how I know It's worth checking the cam timing to make sure it's correct.

Definitely odd to have low but even readings - did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open ? Closed throttles can give a low reading.

Welcome to you all, it's that time of year for tinkering and winter projects so let us know what you're up to - so we can copy all the good ideas . Steve

I had a different set up but I think the same theory would apply to yours. I had 2 velcro straps that went round the top of the roll bar and round the horizontal part of the hood frame - pull them as tight as you need to hold the frame in place and get the hood taut. Luggage straps or similar would do the same job I think.

Depending on exactly where you are in Derbyshire you may be closer to this meet or to Richy who meets up at the Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Coventry, CV7 7HL, on the last Wednesday of the month. You can, of course, come to either or both if you wish. It's getting late in the year now and there won't be too many kits cars present unless we have some very warm evenings but we'll normally be there in "normal" cars. Steve