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dandan62

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by dandan62

  1. I have a quick release as well. I'm about 5'10 and it all fits well. Seats were bought used and I have no idea of the maker I'm afraid.
  2. Hi. I have a flat bottommed removable 30 cm steering wheel which solved the issue. It may be possible also to raise your steering column a bit depending on how far up it already is.
  3. Stupid stupid! I did a job that involved removing the coil. I put in back 180 degs off by mistake so connected everything back up in reverse. Went for a drive. It ran fine surprisingly! Then noticed the rev counter only reading about half the revs. Got home checked coil and saw my error. Put it all back the right way around. Sadly the rev counter is still only half reading and sluggish. I have double checked all connections. Have I ruined it? Any ideas anyone? Anyone got one in that bin in the corner of the shed for me?
  4. I've got an S7 and am very happy with it. It's an older design but I'd just be happy with what you have. Pros and cons with both.
  5. I'm not sure now! Just seen other pics you have. Sorry to confuse. Easy for you to decide if you do the tube or monocoque test. This will help also. https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm
  6. Hi. I noticed your engine start up vid and the comment about it being an S7? You really need to know before swapping the dash unit. A 2B ( not B2) has a tubular structure ( as in tubey). The S7 is made from a folded flat sheet of steel to make a monocoque. From the little I can see in the video it looks like a 2B.
  7. dandan62

    Radiator hose.

    I used a Cortina bottom hose. Plenty on eBay.
  8. Hi. I also have a stormforce 4 layer from coveryourcar. I've had it 3 years now and it has been great. Keeps the car dry. No condensation which is the killer with cheaper ones. I tried the £40 ish ones before and ended up with corroded electrics etc from condensation. None of that so far with this. About £150 but worth it.
  9. Thank you. My only thought was could the old pump and regulator throw out some crud. There are probably pros and cons..
  10. I have a basic set up. 1600 pinto with a Weber carb, original machanical pump and regulator. Up till now I have relied on the tiny mesh filter in the carb. I think it's time to fit a proper in line one. Best place to fit it? For convenience and easiness to see I would fit it between the regulator and carb. Could fit before the mechanical pump and regulator though. Is there any benefit either way? Cheers David
  11. Hi. My old vinyl roof needed some TLC as it was very faded and I felt it needed feeding like leather. I had some stuff in the shed called Polytrol colour restorer so tried on a small area. Seemed good so applied it all over last summer. Came up like new and is still looking very good a year later. The car lives outside. Of course I can't guarantee it won't rot it in the long term but I'll stick with it.
  12. I have considered that but I'm old fashioned and quite like the idea of keeping the reliable mechanical one to do the main work. Only a thought at the moment....
  13. I read somewhere that you can wire them through the solenoid so they only activate on startup? Setup with 2 t pieces to run in parallel with the mechanical pump. This helps when the car has been left for a while to stop the long turnover needed? Anyone done this?
  14. It was made from 2"x1" box section steel. All done with an angle grinder. The only tool in my tool box Some people use U section but i thought leaving the outer edge closed would add some strength. It seems to be holding up well so far. I'm sure there are neater solutions out there but it does the job.
  15. Hi there. Can't help you with brake advice but I'm in Bury. Other side of Storrington. There are a few new members in the area. Scope for a meet when we are allowed. David
  16. I see your problem. According to the manual the barrel needs to be in position 1 with the key for it to be removed. A quick Google shows a couple of options. If you are very lucky, your barrel will have the key code stamped on the outside somewhere. 1980's security! Some old school locksmiths will be able to make a key. Other option is to drill out the shear bolts? Hopefully someone will be along with an easier option. Keep looking for the key
  17. Rubbed down well. Base coats, clear coats, rub down, fine cutting polish and wax.
  18. After and before. Happy with that. It wouldn't win any awards but its red and shiny which it wasn't before. Just wings to final polish and wax.
  19. Indeed! Still like red though
  20. It has been like that since I bought it 5 years ago. One advantage of the lockdown. Going to match the red with my road car so I know what I'm getting.
  21. My old red panels are very faded as you can see when i removed the lights. My camera makes the original look pink but it is bright red. Long overdue!
  22. Thanks. Just looked at the "pro" version. The top photo looks exactly like mine. The bottom photo looks completely different! Not entirely sure I trust the listing on that basis. When/if mine wears out I will look again. I do put a tiny bit of copper grease on mine. Makes it slide easier and hopefully stops a bit on wear. Using it and a flat bottomed steering wheel makes life so much easier getting in and out.
  23. I bought this one from eBay last year. Still ok but i don't do many miles. I only paid £12 . At that price if i have to replace every couple of years that's fine. I needed a very slim one and this is a good size. You should be able to find one just by the picture.
  24. I'm pretty sure the rose joint eye was m12. I used m8 to bolt the bracket. The box section was 2" x 1" . 2mm thick. I haven't done a huge mileage yet but it all seems solid without distorting.
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