Jez Morton

If you can get a ring it might be able an option to replace the worn brushes in the contacts I have.

I'll be up for this, wake me up nearer the time though.

Just had quick search, looks like your looking for rocking horse poop. Can't believe when I built mine i got new carbon contacts from Ford and now there's nothing? I do have the old contacts but they where too worn to reach the slip ring in my Mountney wheel. You can get old MG or triumph rings and spring contacts easily enough, they might be possible to adapt but they are single pole so you would need to earth through column?

You could try Gbs, or maybe ebay I've seen panels come up before. Fitting isn't a massive headache, lots of clamps and rivets, hard part is forming top corners if its stainless.

I would tin the wire strands and make sure there's no strain or movement on the wire, the screw would do more damage to the wire strands than anything else. Altenatively you could try insulted pin terminals or bootlace ferrules, but both require crimping.

Looks like I got a night off dads taxi service so should be there.

Thanks really appreciate it.

I need a set of runners and will be at EOSB, how much do you want for them.

Are you checking the wires between left and right switches, there should be a wire joining the light switch to the main beam flash switch. Might be white with black trace. This will stay live with headlamps on while the flasher switch activates main beam and turns off dip. On later cars its a small brown/black wire which is switched to earth as relays where added to the lights.

The basic Ford set up has an oil separator which looks like the red part but it has one hose attached via a push in pcv. This hose is usually connected to the inlet manifold to draw fumes out of the crank case. If your using a catch tank, make sure there is no valve in the system that would let pressure build before you connect to catch tank. I don't know that oil seperator/ pcv setup, it could be top hose is pcv and bottom is direct to crank case perhaps for the filler breather. I'm sure someone will be along soon who knows better than I do.

Usually you can set the tdc and cam then just withdraw the dizzy and refit in correct orientation. You still need to time it correctly afterwards but you should be close and have room to adjust.

Normally the vacuum in the manifold is used to draw gases from the block and burn them through the engine. It may be easier to go back to a standard Ford setup. When I fitted DCOEs on my old kit that chucked oil out of the filler, this was due to to the breather having a valve where it meets the engine allowing the crank to pressurise. I cut the end off to remove the valve and spring and fed to a catch tank.

Last I heard you have to pre purchase a ticket to get access for C&M. May have changed now but worth checking.

I beg to differ, I use 15W40 in my pinto and have done for over 10 years with no issues.

It has front double wishbones so is 2B Plus.