Jump to content


Community user
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About steve_wilson

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 03/19/1990

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B Converted Wishbone
  • Full name
    Steve Wilson

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    York, North Yorkshire
  1. Hi Everyone! I'm after advice on what type of vacuum hose people use on their engines... I've had a couple of rough running issues when up to temperature on my 2B, which I believe may be down to the 4mm ID vac lines collapsing when they get warm. They feel pretty flimsy at room temp so I wouldn't be surprised if it was the cause of my problems. I've since bought some more expensive Samco stuff, which in my opinion is no better than the cheapo stuff I already have. Where possible I've used 4mm thick wall copper tube, but there are some lengths that need to be in flexible stu
  2. It's a Z20LET (newer turbo'd version of the red top). Valve stem seals were all replaced for new. Also the exhaust is on the passenger side - still could be a contributing factor though. I've recently had it mapped so should be spot on, I still have my wideband lambda sensor and gauge to install though. So I won't rule out overfuelling! I'll try the above and see how I get on. Thanks
  3. Thanks for your input. I'll exhaust it under the car for now, and check my firewall is sealing well. I'll report back in a week or two with my findings! Steve
  4. I rebuilt the engine and has only had about 300 miles of use since then, so it shouldn't (and as far as I know isn't) using oil. sounds like the best option is to just run a pipe out under the car then? Just to clarify, these oil vapours may not be the cause of the smelliness, but it's just the cheapest, easiest and in my opinion most likely cause. Thanks, Steve
  5. Hello everyone Hopefully a simple question... but one I haven't found an answer to yet! I'm a little put off driving my 2B at the moment as after a few minutes I soon stink of fumes, which then means a shower and a change of clothes when I get back in. I realise this is all part of the experience, but I'd like to make it something I can go to and from work in this year. As it stands I have a cam cover breather with a little mesh filter exhausting the oil vapour fumes into the engine bay - which I suspect is the main cause of the smelliness. So I'm looking at either fitting
  6. I'm baaaack! I've altered my coolant plumbing to how Kerry and Steve have it, fitted a thermostat and installed a Schrader valve to the head to use as a bleed. So I've not really noticed any difference with the overheating/ejecting water issues, however I think I may have identified the problem. I decided to pressure test the system using a bike tyre pump on the Schrader valve. Got it up to 20 psi before the radiator cap lifted, but then wouldn't seal again until the system had lost all its pressure. This issue would repeat itself. I gave all the mating faces a clean up and a lig
  7. In case you cant read my handwriting (very possible) A - Mechanical water pump B - The 25mm connection that's hidden under the inlet manifold C - Thermostat (8mm tail goes to the turbo, big goes to the rad) Thanks, Steve
  8. hopefully this link should work: https://ibb.co/fMM04w it's difficult to get photos on here now. the forums upload feature doesn't seem to work for me, and photobucket are uselsss now! fingers crossed the link works!
  9. Hopefully I've attached my diagram correctly. Now I understand the coolant system a *llitle* better, would I be right in saying the turbo loop as it is could be bypassing the engine? Thanks, Steve
  10. I forgot to mention... I've done away with all the heater parts too. I just put a core plug, plate and gasket to cover. Thanks, Steve
  11. I gave my cooling setup a good coat of looking at last night and it is slightly different to your twos layouts. The bottom rad connection goes to the back of the water pump, into this is a 25mm tee which goes to the connection under the inlet manifold. I've also put a tee into the 25mm inlet side pipe which goes to the turbo. the 8mm feed off the thermostat runs along the top of the exhaust manifold, then back under and into the turbo. I think this is a little different to yours if I'm picturing yours correctly? Would photos or a drawing of mine help? I've fitted a new ther
  12. Thanks for everyone's input, really is appreciated! So I think what I'm going to do is, fit a thermostat, plumb the system the way that Steve and Kerry have it (as I think mine is slightly different), fit the Schrader valve to pressure test the system and then go for a few drives and see how I get on. What is the best way to avoid getting air locks in the system when filling? Do I get the hose pipe on the top rad hose to blast water through? Thanks, Steve
  13. Morning I'm having a few issues with my 2B that I've fitted a Z20LET to... I'm thinking head gasket/cracked head, but I just wanted a second, third and fourth opinion before I start stripping it down. It's a rebuilt engine (by myself) with new gaskets, seals and water pump, new civic aluminium 50mm thick radiator (shrouded), new hoses and a nice big oil cooler. I have removed the thermostat. The grill in the nose cone is one of the Caterham type ones so isn't restricting flow, and I've fitted flared side panels to remove heat from the engine bay. At speeds of above 50mph-ish the
  14. Hi all, I've got a mountfield hp470 which is a push along petrol mower. It's worked fine until a few weeks ago where she'd fire up and then die after a few seconds of running. I've had the carb and fuel tank off and thoroughly cleaned them out and refilled with fresh fuel. Any other pointers/obvious things to check? I'm not keen on spending any money on it as it's worth next to nothing and a new mower isn't a huge amount either. Thanks, Steve
  15. I'm in York, you're welcome to take a look at mine. I've converted mine to wishbones now but originally built mine with sliding pillars.
  • Create New...