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Everything posted by steve_wilson

  1. Hi Everyone! I'm after advice on what type of vacuum hose people use on their engines... I've had a couple of rough running issues when up to temperature on my 2B, which I believe may be down to the 4mm ID vac lines collapsing when they get warm. They feel pretty flimsy at room temp so I wouldn't be surprised if it was the cause of my problems. I've since bought some more expensive Samco stuff, which in my opinion is no better than the cheapo stuff I already have. Where possible I've used 4mm thick wall copper tube, but there are some lengths that need to be in flexible stuff. What's everyone else using that doesn't collapse and where do you get it from? Thanks, Andy
  2. It's a Z20LET (newer turbo'd version of the red top). Valve stem seals were all replaced for new. Also the exhaust is on the passenger side - still could be a contributing factor though. I've recently had it mapped so should be spot on, I still have my wideband lambda sensor and gauge to install though. So I won't rule out overfuelling! I'll try the above and see how I get on. Thanks
  3. Thanks for your input. I'll exhaust it under the car for now, and check my firewall is sealing well. I'll report back in a week or two with my findings! Steve
  4. I rebuilt the engine and has only had about 300 miles of use since then, so it shouldn't (and as far as I know isn't) using oil. sounds like the best option is to just run a pipe out under the car then? Just to clarify, these oil vapours may not be the cause of the smelliness, but it's just the cheapest, easiest and in my opinion most likely cause. Thanks, Steve
  5. Hello everyone Hopefully a simple question... but one I haven't found an answer to yet! I'm a little put off driving my 2B at the moment as after a few minutes I soon stink of fumes, which then means a shower and a change of clothes when I get back in. I realise this is all part of the experience, but I'd like to make it something I can go to and from work in this year. As it stands I have a cam cover breather with a little mesh filter exhausting the oil vapour fumes into the engine bay - which I suspect is the main cause of the smelliness. So I'm looking at either fitting an oil catch tank, routing the oil vapours back into the turbo inlet or just extending the current filter and hose to under the car somewhere? Why do people fit oil catch tanks over burning the oil vapour or just exhausting the fumes under the car somewhere? Any advice welcome! Thanks, Steve
  6. I'm baaaack! I've altered my coolant plumbing to how Kerry and Steve have it, fitted a thermostat and installed a Schrader valve to the head to use as a bleed. So I've not really noticed any difference with the overheating/ejecting water issues, however I think I may have identified the problem. I decided to pressure test the system using a bike tyre pump on the Schrader valve. Got it up to 20 psi before the radiator cap lifted, but then wouldn't seal again until the system had lost all its pressure. This issue would repeat itself. I gave all the mating faces a clean up and a light coat of grease and repeated the pressure test with no issues. I'm going to get a new cap ordered and see how I get on with that! Should've checked the rad cap first really (as people suggested), however as it was a new cap and radiator I assumed it would've been fine! I'll report back with my findings
  7. In case you cant read my handwriting (very possible) A - Mechanical water pump B - The 25mm connection that's hidden under the inlet manifold C - Thermostat (8mm tail goes to the turbo, big goes to the rad) Thanks, Steve
  8. hopefully this link should work: https://ibb.co/fMM04w it's difficult to get photos on here now. the forums upload feature doesn't seem to work for me, and photobucket are uselsss now! fingers crossed the link works!
  9. Hopefully I've attached my diagram correctly. Now I understand the coolant system a *llitle* better, would I be right in saying the turbo loop as it is could be bypassing the engine? Thanks, Steve
  10. I forgot to mention... I've done away with all the heater parts too. I just put a core plug, plate and gasket to cover. Thanks, Steve
  11. I gave my cooling setup a good coat of looking at last night and it is slightly different to your twos layouts. The bottom rad connection goes to the back of the water pump, into this is a 25mm tee which goes to the connection under the inlet manifold. I've also put a tee into the 25mm inlet side pipe which goes to the turbo. the 8mm feed off the thermostat runs along the top of the exhaust manifold, then back under and into the turbo. I think this is a little different to yours if I'm picturing yours correctly? Would photos or a drawing of mine help? I've fitted a new thermostat which I know works, and I'll be fitting a Schrader valve tonight to bleed the system. I'll let you know how I get on! Thanks again! Steve
  12. Thanks for everyone's input, really is appreciated! So I think what I'm going to do is, fit a thermostat, plumb the system the way that Steve and Kerry have it (as I think mine is slightly different), fit the Schrader valve to pressure test the system and then go for a few drives and see how I get on. What is the best way to avoid getting air locks in the system when filling? Do I get the hose pipe on the top rad hose to blast water through? Thanks, Steve
  13. Morning I'm having a few issues with my 2B that I've fitted a Z20LET to... I'm thinking head gasket/cracked head, but I just wanted a second, third and fourth opinion before I start stripping it down. It's a rebuilt engine (by myself) with new gaskets, seals and water pump, new civic aluminium 50mm thick radiator (shrouded), new hoses and a nice big oil cooler. I have removed the thermostat. The grill in the nose cone is one of the Caterham type ones so isn't restricting flow, and I've fitted flared side panels to remove heat from the engine bay. At speeds of above 50mph-ish the temperature will creep up and up and eventually start blowing past the rad cap (which I believe is a 20 psi one). I've also had a few little slow drives around the estate on a cool evening with no bonnet fitted and the same issue occurs but much slower. in 50 miles of use I've used roughly 3 litres of water. I bought one of the testers off ebay that tests your coolant for combustion gasses which has indicated there are no exhaust gasses present in the coolant. The next thing I'm planning on doing is fitting a pressure gauge and Schrader valve to a coolant pipe, pumping up with a tyre pump and looking for pressure drop... which I think should rule out any coolant leaks in the system. Despite the coolant tester indicating no exhaust gasses in the coolant, I still consider head gasket to be the most likely culprit. Although would it be possible for the water cooled turbo to be leaking coolant into the exhaust somehow? Perhaps its possible for it to be airlocked - how do I rule this out? The exhaust gasses are quite smokey/white but that could just due to the low temperatures outside. There are no other running issues. it pulls very well and isn't making any usual noises. Advice/opinions welcomed Thanks, Steve
  14. Hi all, I've got a mountfield hp470 which is a push along petrol mower. It's worked fine until a few weeks ago where she'd fire up and then die after a few seconds of running. I've had the carb and fuel tank off and thoroughly cleaned them out and refilled with fresh fuel. Any other pointers/obvious things to check? I'm not keen on spending any money on it as it's worth next to nothing and a new mower isn't a huge amount either. Thanks, Steve
  15. I'm in York, you're welcome to take a look at mine. I've converted mine to wishbones now but originally built mine with sliding pillars.
  16. Hi all I'm after the windscreen surround, glass and windscreen brackets for a 2b. If you only have the windscreen surround then that's fine too, I can get glass cut to suit and fabricate some brackets. I can arrange a courier if needed. Beer tokens waiting Thanks, Steve
  17. i used to have a vx220 turbo which used the header tank off an astra (can't remember which year/model, although 2005 sounds about right). as the engine cover was mostly mesh to let heat out, the header tank was exposed to sunlight and they would go brittle and eventually crack/leak and need replacing. I had exactly the same problem as you describe by fitting a cheapo ebay header tank. on discovering the fault I replaced it for a genuine Vauxhall part and the problem went away, well documented problem on the vx220 owners club. Hope this helps!
  18. I think I've got some in the garage. Let me have a look tomorrow and I'll let you know. Steve
  19. well i was a bit ambitious in thinking the first tat was only a cou of weeks way in m previous post!! Tried yesterday for the first start and failed, left the battery on charge over night and decided to revisit this morning. Despite this failure, everything else looked promising. Oil pressure looked good and so on. Had another go this morning and I was getting some kick back on the starter motor which made me think the ignition timing was out. However when I looked into it using the Data Logger in the software I could see the VR signal was very erratic, which suggested I'd wired the VR sensor the wrong way round, simple fix. VR signal was now fine but now I wasn't getting a spark at all, turned out to be a dodgy connection on the fusebox (my fault) so again another easy fix and then went for the start up. Couple of seconds turning over and it fired into life! Sounds a little rough at the moment however I'm still dead chuffed! Big thanks to Steve in Stockport and Ben Copeland for helping me this far, would have been quite a struggle without your guiding hands!
  20. hi all I'm after some sierra column switches. I only really need the indicator side and if possible (to save altering my wiring) they need to be BG87 or BG90. Beer tokens waiting Thanks, Steve
  21. hi andrew I've sent you a pm thanks, steve
  22. cant believe this has almost been a year since my last post! progress has been made since i last posted on this, wiring is almost complete, all the plumbing has been done, i've remade all the interior panels (gearbox tunnel and so on), complete new wiring loom, redone all the brake lines, fitted a new radiator from a civic, the list feels endless! starting to look like a car again! will post some pictures up over the weekend, hopefully will be able to go for the first start in the next couple of weeks!
  23. managed to get hold of a boss off ebay so i only need: the horn slip ring plastic fitting which holds the brushes for the slip ring centre push horn for a mountney steering wheel beer tokens waiting
  24. i have a z20let fitted, which is different to the c20xe, however i think the bottom ends are very similar. i have a yukspeed sump fitted which meant i didnt have to alter the plough, i have about an inch iclearance between the top of the plough and the bottom of the sump, quality of the sump isnt brilliant, but the price reflects this. i tried to make the sierra pedal box work but decided to bin it and go for a floor mounted obp pedal box, certainly looks neat but untested yet.
  25. bump I have Peters old steering wheel (thanks again!), does anyone have a boss they're not using? thanks, steve
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