richyb66

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You should be able to start a new topic or reply in Events. The Club Information area can only take posts and replys from Committee or Admin. As a test can you try and post a reply to this thread:

Is it because the database is still working out what each user has read. If I choose unread messages for the last year, the list is quite short, even though I know there are more threads that I didn't read.

Andi, can you delete the cheeseboard for Jackie please. She probably won't eat it all and I don't like cheese so probably better to give it a miss.

Just to add to what Stuart had said, obviously the downtime isn't ideal but it's unavoidable. Now is probably the best time to do it as there aren't a lot of events coming up that people need to keep informed about and the general traffic on the forum does seem quite low.

You probably need to chop the sump or buy a lowered one. There are quite a few threads covering this, put "zetec sump" with the quotes in the search at the top of the page and you'll see a few relevant threads.

It's going fine, just need some dry weather and a free weekend and I'll be out in it.

The picture's not that clear but they don't look like the original boots. If they're the push in type shafts at the diff end, the original boots are integrated in to a metal can that's staked around the joint. When they split, people cut off the old rubber boot and just replace it with the universal type boots. If you want to save a load of mess and dismantling, get the stretchy boots that you can slide over the joint on to the shaft using a cone. They look like they won't stretch sufficiently but they do in fact go on. Luckily for you maybe, I have a cone and I'm in Tamworth.

Given that the most likely cause of a system failure is the pump, doesn't that make a swirl pot system twice as likely to fail. Maybe that's one reason (in addition to the greater cost) why no oem I can think of uses them

Top pipe, fuel return to tank. Bottom pipe, fuel feed to HP pump which then feeds the fuel rail. Opposite end of the fuel rail will have a pressure regulator and the outlet from this goes back in to the swirl pot through the second pipe down. Third pipe down come from the low pressure pump and fills the swirl pot from the tank. Personally I think external swirl pots just add extra complication. If you've already got it then carry on and it will work fine. If you've not bought one yet consider an in tank swirl pot as tractor suggests, a Land rover swirl pot and pump fits easily in a 2B tank, works well and is cheap.

We need a picture of the swirl pot so we know what you're using.

Kerry needs the rubber doughnut to dampen the vibration, it's what's used on the Omega box. He wants the bits that the doughnut bolts to so they can be built in to a new props shaft. I'm sure he'll stretch to a new doughnut.

https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=strength&product_id=1203

25mm square box sat on top of the floor passing from one side of the car to the other. Welded to the side chassis tubes either end and at the centre. I added some vertical pieces that drop down from underneath the tunnel tubes, to the top of the box. This allows the cross pieces to bear the weight of the seats without bending - they're positioned so the seat runners are bolted through the box which saves having to put big spreader plates under the floor. The seat mounting is really solid, no flex anywhere and the floor sheet is just there to keep the water out.

Yes. The seat mountings and seat belt mountings to the floor need to be reinforced.