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brumster

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brumster last won the day on June 2 2020

brumster had the most liked content!

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About brumster

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    Wheely good builder!

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    Zero
  • Full name
    Dan Howell

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    http://www.brumster.com

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    Male
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    Brum (duh)
  • Interests
    Listing interesting hobbies and interests on internet forums

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  1. brumster

    Car love

    That's not right in the head, for sure... # edit: unless it was the 1.4, in which case, good move, should have be done as soon as it came out of the factory
  2. Looking at that, I *suspect* the bell shaped washed is to stop the mount pulling totally through (upwards) in the case of a crash or the rubber bush separating apart? As it doesn't seem to make contact with any rubber directly?
  3. I would go with the mindset you'll get some failures at your first IVA; think of it more as a snag list. People's experiences are vary variable over the years, you can get picky examiners and you can get easy-going ones. Plan for the worst; hope for the best If you go to IVA with a windscreen then it must have the appropriate sundries also fitted at the same time - a mechanism to clear it (wipers), wash it (washers) and demist it (heater/blower mechanism or heated screen), wipers must sweep a certain amount clear, must sweep a certain speed, etc. It must also pass all the usual safety re
  4. It'll be a different bike - he's on about the engine from a Superblackbird, aka a CBR1100XX. Although maybe the management on a 929RR is the same, I don't know, but.... just sayin' I'd have suspected fuel first if it'd been standing around for ages how long is 'ages' ?
  5. You're saying a constant 5v but this doesn't come out of the lambda sensor itself, you're talking about your controller, right? So it could very much be the controller at fault rather than the sensor. A spare sensor isn't a bad thing to have. I had an Innovate LC-1 that died within what must have been 20-30 hours of total running time; electronics fault - the Bosch sensor itself was fine. So it's entirely possible, I guess.
  6. Lord knows we're all driving less !
  7. brumster

    VIN

    <chuckle> this takes me back to being a kid, I had the same discussion with my dad. "What's nearside mean?" "It's the side of the car near the kerb" "Oh, so, the left?" "Yeah" "Unless you're in europe..." "Yeah" "So why not call it the left side?" "Errm, yeah"
  8. I scrapped an entire Exmo chassis and rear suspension from a Sierra and got about £50 for it. So you'll almost certainly get more for the parts. Then just weigh in the body. You just need to spend a bit of time on eBay and Car Builder Solutions looking at what prices things go for, for the things you've got. Radiator, steering rack, etc. Or else if you're just contemplating weighing it all in, just stick each of the items on eBay at 99p start or somesuch and see how it goes. Also consider listing it on locostbuilders.co.uk forum, donor parts tend to go pretty quickly on that (I'
  9. I'd agree, I'd probably see more value in selling all the bits and plan on the fact you'll just throw away the body/chassis. The wings for example might be of value to someone building a kit/locost, and then things like the steering rack, radiator, lights, etc probably all have more value individually than you'll get as a job lot. You might be lucky and find that one person out there itching to build a lightweight but I think, if we're being openly honest about it, they are few and far between
  10. HELIflipper03, if you find a car where the V5 doesn't match what you're actually looking at, there are a few possibilities as to why. And let's be honet, the most likely reason, irrespective of what the seller tells you, is that they (or a previous owner) wanted to avoid the paperwork, effort, cost and red tape of going through an IVA but wanted to build a kit car. So they found an existing kit car, bought it, and used the identity for the one they built. Whether it's actually MADE from that car (ie. they stripped it and put the bits into a new chassis) or they just swapped number plates
  11. He only said "I'd be tempted...". If you're going to jump down his throat at least read exactly what he wrote rather than misquoting him as saying "RINGERS are fine" which he, quite clearly, didn't?!
  12. Cool, ok. I wouldn't really choose a 2B as a trackday car then, if I had £5500 burning a hole in my pocket.... I'd probably go more for a Locost chassis with a more fruity engine. You'll have way more options in terms of chassis tuning, it'll weigh less. 2Bs are great for the road but for what you're after, I think that sort of money would be better spent on something a bit more track-focused...
  13. Is this purely a track day car? You're bit "hold it's own on track" has thrown me a bit, that can mean different things to different people
  14. They're in the IVA guide (table 1) but referenced as "position lamps"... 400mm max in from the side, max 1500mm high (or 2100 if impractical) and at least 250mm off the ground. And bear in mind the angles of visibility
  15. I may be showing my ignorance, but I thought the test checked the pattern and intensity of the light so why does anyone care whether the actual emitting source of light is a conventional filament bulb, a HID gas bulb or an LED? So, like said above, if the output of light conforms to the requirements in terms of spread, not blinding anyone, etc then I'm curious as to why it matters (assuming e-marked, etc, that's all fine)... presumably the MOT test doesn't check some critical aspect (genuinely curious)? edit: did a google https://blog.motoringassist.com/news/fit-led-lighting-car-legally
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