brumster

I'm up for it too, but can't commit to a ticket this early, but unless there's any surprises heading my way consider me there...

I can't contribute much but I would ask/question where you got 3deg of negative camber from, because that sounds like a LOT !?

Rich, +3 attending here please.

I always use Westfield Fasteners myself...

lol, arse! Typical!

No worries! The Sony action cam is about the only one I can think of that gets close to image quality of GoPro, so that's another one to consider/look in to

Does anyone have a type 9 casing they don't need? A friend in another motor club has a cracked gearbox and needs to replace the main casing. He doesn't particularly need a functional gearbox so it can be just the main casing itself, or a knackered gearbox, or so forth... or a complete gearbox of course, but I suspect with the money people want for them this might not work for him but, hey, let me know what you have Cheers, Dan

I have been through many. Go Pro Hero 2, Hero 3, Session, SJCAM 5000, SJ8 Air, Drift Stealth 2, Drift Ghost HD, and a couple of remote bullet cams. Without exception, the image quality on the GoPros is hands down better than anything else when it comes to rapid motion. If image quality is important to you - I am not talking resolution here, but the camera's capability to compress the image cleanly and quickly with artefacting - then buy yourself a 2nd hand GoPro and be done. As said above, GoPro just keep re-inventing themselves with more models with more features that are largely irrelevant. If you're after cheap as chips basic camera capability, I'd suggest the SJCAM range too, the older 5000 series is size-compatible with the GoPro so you can share all the accessories. For helmet cameras (action cams) for motorbike or mountain biking, I would change my recommendation though, the new Drift Ghost X would get my vote hands-down for practicality. If you are interested, I have a number of cameras I can bring along to the next meet from the above selection and I'd be quite happy to get rid of a few of them so you can check them out and make me an offer on one if you like?

Might pop over for breakfast, play it by ear from there be good to see you all...

A noise meter

As per above, provided the springs are retained suitably that they can't unseat you should be fine. I failed an MOT once but that was because the ropes weren't in place; I was never a fan of them to be honest. I lockwired the spring tops as a temporary measure but I think for IVA you'd want something more permanent. Much as it looks a kludge, the rope approach works I'd maybe just do something a little more professional/permanent looking for IVA, maybe a top cup/seat for the spring (over and above the simple rectangular 'tray' you get as standard) that holds it in place.... but ultimately restricting the amount of droop on the suspension is the sound idea and the rope system certainly does it cost-effectively!

Same here! Otherwise I'm not touching it. I've spent 4 years building the thing, it can stay in one piece for as long as possible ! Gearbox swap on the other car to do though... so that'll keep me busy...

Robin Hood did a coilover kit/upgrade for the Exmo that put it all where your current damper is, and the existing spring just went bye-bye (the space left empty). You could make up something similar although obviously you would need to make your own mounting plate for the top - I wouldn't re-use the RHE one you have for the damper. You want something with some strength in it, maybe pick up/extend the red bracket you have there that mounts the rear section to the tub. *If* you decide to go that route it won't make the thing magically handle any better though so I wouldn't get too tied up about it.

I did the tie-bar conversion on my monocoque Exmo; as has been said, it was a very common conversion and it made a wealth of difference (coupled with softer springs). Lots of details on this forum and other sites - I won't regurgitate what it involves.

Aluminium will need lots of polishing to look nice, unless you fancied anodising it. Would be a bit reflective if not. Stainless would be *very* reflective. I'd think more an opaque plastic myself, or otherwise trim/aquadip whatever you choose. The plastic would be easier to work with, you could pretty much cut it at home if you wanted to, but if you have access to someone with a water cutter then that's a winner, whatever material you chose. If you needed it translating into a CAD design I could happily knock that up for you in a few minutes if you told me the essential dimensions - just let me know via PM if need be