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brumster last won the day on June 2

brumster had the most liked content!

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About brumster

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    Wheely good builder!

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    Dan Howell

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    Brum (duh)
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    Listing interesting hobbies and interests on internet forums

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  1. Unless GBS have some, you'll probably need to CAD them up and get a metal cutting place to cut you some
  2. fwiw, the original windscreen supports provided with the Exmo looked different to yours - they had wider webs and were quite basic. I think the angle might be a bit different, but I'll let you decide
  3. I've got an optimate 3 which I've had for *utterly ages* (like, 20 years) and it does my dry cell batteries fine - I've used it on motorbikes and also the dry batteries in the kit car and a competition car. More recently I purchased a NOCO and I must say I am really impressed with it for the money; I bought it because I needed 2 connected at the same time and also I'd bought a Lithium battery for the motorbike - the optimate wouldn't do that, being so old. If you're only looking to maintain a battery, then the base model 1 amp NOCO will be perfectly fine and at £33 honestly, it's a cracking bi
  4. I don't mean to sound cruel but whoever told you the Exmo is an 'exotic' was having a laugh We bought our Exmo in 96/7, there had been a batch before us, so the above dates ring true to my memory - it didn't run for long. They were picked up in batches; everyone turned up to the factory "en masse" to collect what must have been 50 to 100 kits in one day! Quite a fun day actually Most Exmos had a Ford 4-pot SOHC ("Pinto") put in them, 1600/1800/2000cc. Most people were buying Exmo's as a budget build so I don't recall anyone putting anything special in them, bar a couple of Ford V6
  5. I never managed to get much of a recentre effect on the Exmo; there was a little bit at small steering inputs but there was an "over-centre" effect where, past a certain point, there was none whatsoever. At extreme steering angles, the wheels would actually fall outward into the turn - bloody dangerous! When I put the tie bars on I tried to push the strut bottoms forward as much as seemed reasonable to do but you have to remember that the way the tops mount, anything other than perpendicular to the buttress (and the top bearing) you're loading up that bearing incorrectly and potentially bendin
  6. I'd say you've definitely got to do something about the position of that rad and the ability for air to flow through it - it's tight and messy in there, hard to see from photos so apologies if I get it wrong but it looks like there's all manner of things stopping a good passage of airflow, let alone the fact that it's hanging around in open space rather than having anything effectively controlling the air flow through it. Moving it even just the other side of that shock arrangement would allow you to use the nosecone as something to butt panels/ducting up like Richy's lovely arrangement (sligh
  7. Q plate : I'd say yes. It *shouldn't* and people like to make out it doesn't, but I think realistically, it does, there's a bit of Q-plate snobbery that we don't like to talk about :). Up to you really, these cars aren't typically investments so do you really care? Ignore what other people think. I've seen good and poor examples of Westfields just as much as Robin Hoods but, on the basis there are more Westfields out there, and I suspect a lot of them were factory built, you *tend* to see more good examples of Westfields. I'm generalising, but I feel that's probably fair to say, particula
  8. I've always put fans on the back of my cars rads than the front, just habit I think, I've heard people argue over the benefits of either but I suspect it's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other :). No clearance issues here so it's neater and less likely to get damaged, but obviously my car is a different setup to yours, being a Zero and with a different engine, my clearance behind the rad is pretty massive. I would say yes, mine is a 12" or possibly a 10". It's a SPAL. Radiator is Seat Ibiza/Cordoba diesel but again, not being an S7, that's probably irrelevant for your setup.
  9. Any pics without the nosecone on? In addition to the very valid points above : to me, in your last-but-one pic, it looks like there is a gap at the left side of the rad? If there's no ducting in the nosecone, then air will get scooped in via the nosecone front and (assuming we're at speed here) will take the path of least resistance to get back out again to low pressure. Depending on the course through the engine bay - I see side vents on the right, I'm going to guess there's one on the left too (?) - I'm guessing it will go straight through this nice, convenient gap at the side of the ra
  10. Yeah, no pics for me either, sorry!
  11. Be good to see pics. In my experience with seeing cars that have overheating issues it is almost 90% of the time down to bad air flow design. Failure to control the consumption of air into the nosecone and THROUGH the radiator (by ensuring there are no lower-pressure routes around the radiator instead of through it), and likewise blocking the flow of air once it's gone through the radiator - blocking the back of the rad, or not giving the air any suitable low-pressure exit route out of the engine bay. It could still be bad rad, blocked channels, knackered 'stat or whatever, granted, but i
  12. GTM Libra? All the weather protection you need then (they do a couple and soft top version, and the coupe has a removeable roof section)...
  13. Assuming you mean the outer ones (where the ARB fits, originally) then if you can still get them, P100 bushes from Ford are a higher grade (ie. bit of an upgrade) without going all-out on solid poly bushes. More cost-effective upgrade, we did this on our old Exmo.
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