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danielbrookes

RHOCaR Member
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danielbrookes last won the day on September 21

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About danielbrookes

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 09/20/1983

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    GBS Zero GT
  • Full name
    Daniel Brookes

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockton-on-Tees

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  1. Sounds daft but have you checked the fuses? I’ve spent ages in the past chasing down problems and in the end it was a blown fuse. It sounds like you have because you mention changing the fuse board, but just in case I thought I would comment.
  2. Well still fine but I am driving round like an old woman. Another week of quiet driving and I’ll start to push here, then take her for a blast.
  3. Nightmare, when you reset the TPS it changes the throttle pot values for min and max. There’s a setting and tick box to enable idle control and configure when it kicks in, have you tried to disable idle control and/or checked the throttle pot value it’s enabled at? I don’t think that’s the problem though as it wouldn’t have cleared the map like you describe and would only affect idle.
  4. Hi, I kept the imobilser in the end, turns out I had used one of my “dummy” wires. My own fault but after realising today I now have power to the fuel pump. I seem to have solved my problem, the issue now is I don’t trust it. Need to bite the bullet and go for a decent drive. Sat on the drive she performs as expected upto 3k, haven’t tested much over as I don’t want to annoy the neighbours too much. Driving round the block at 30 she seems OK as well, which wasn’t the same before. Hopefully when I’ve plucked up the courage to take her out properly I’ll give a positive
  5. Replaced the wiring for injectors and ignition, I didn’t find any faults in the loom and I checked every pin. Now I have no high pressure fuel pump, no 12v supply. I wonder if I have found my issue.... I have an immobiliser fitted that’s spliced into both the hp fuel and the starter, both controlled off separate relay. The starter motor works fine so I know the immobiliser is getting the signal from key and disarming. Can anyone confirm that both the HP and LP fuel pumps are connected to the same relay? The LP pump works. I’ve checked and double checked the wiring and
  6. I would think it will be fine and your overthinking it, something I always do :). You could ring GBS tomorrow to be sure? They are really helpful if you call them - don’t email, phone is quicker they can be slow to reply to mail. Ive rang a few times and asked questions and they were always happy to help.
  7. Here is the one I had, you can see no cap: https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=radiator&product_id=320 If it helps I changed to a different rad layer on that had an overflow pipe at the top. I capped it off with some old coolant hose as a stop gap and that’s never caused me problems. Maybe the rad doesn’t get above 10psi so the fact it has a cap on it doesn’t matter is what I am trying to say.
  8. Normally you would only have one, not two. I remember when building mine, which is also a Zetec, I ordered the rad (with valve) and thermostat from kitspares. They rang me and said I need the rad without the valve and it’s worked without issue. Makes sense if you think about it. In your case it should still work assuming the pressure is less than 10psi (no idea if it is). Might also aid in getting rid of any air locks when filling.
  9. Not really the same but might be of use (or could be obvious who knows!). I built my own Zetec loom and started out with a big mdf board. I drew all the components on the board like air flow sensor, temp sensor, injectors etc and then put a nail where each one would be. I then wrapped the correct wires round the nail and tackled each wire one sensor at a time. By the time I put it on the car I knew the loom inside out, cut it to size, put the correct connectors on, documented and tested it. Worked for me and allowed me to break it down into manageable chunks. Perhaps a similar ap
  10. Hi, as it’s intermittent (assuming it’s wiring) then my thoughts are if I take the wiring out then I can take a good look at it. Not too much effort to take out the engine loom to be honest, scuttle is removable and the rest is easy. I’ve taken it out and so far found no faults. I have however replaced the driver wires for all injectors and both sides of the coil, and the 12v supply to each. If the problem still exists afterwards then it’s time to speak to emerald.
  11. Thanks Paul, I ran the car upto temperature today and it worked fine - didn’t actually drive it but revs freely without issue upto 4K. Tested all the wiring and found no issue, however, decided to take the loom off the car and inspect it. I don’t want to just drive the car with an intermittent fault. If I don’t find the culprit I’ll give emerald a ring I think.
  12. I'm going to run the ECU earth directly to the battery negative post to see if that helps. I am guessing the voltage drop at the injectors is something to do with the injector drivers and I dont understand how they work. Given there are 4 separate driver cables, I have a good + supply to each injector and they all show the same voltage reading if I connect pin1+pin2 I doubt there is a fault (unless it is indeed a bad ECU earth).
  13. Hmmm. Even more interesting! I don’t suppose you (assuming you have an emerald) could check to see if you have the same I.e when the ignition is on, engine not running, you get voltage across the injector pins? I wonder if I have a wiring fault and they are earthing out.
  14. Even when the ignition is on Dan?
  15. Does anyone know if I should see 12V at the injectors with the ignition on? I've checked the ECU earth and its good, 3ohms resistance to battery negative. Not so with the negative on the injectors but as they go to the drivers I'm not sure if its normal or not.
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