nicko

Don't believe all you see in the videos. I built mine as I described, and a couple of other people I know who built theirs have the same configuration. Things changed in the "design" over the years, but the videos didn't. I think it depends on the year of the chassis and remember it's not precision engineering (I've always said whoever welded the 2b chassis had an elastic measuring tape. Nick

The bonnet is not meant to fit to the tube behind the dash, you need to fit the dash to fill the gap. Once everything is fitted in place it is fairly rigid. Nick

When I built mine I cut the dash to fit the chassis then had to extend it to fit the gap to the bonnet. Once it's all fitted together it doesn't look too bad. Remember, you're building a Robin Hood.... If you measure everything it will look wrong!!! Fitting by eye is the way forward. Nick

I've got a red one I bought a few years ago and never fitted, I'll message you with a price. Nick

I could be wrong (it was 15 years ago) but I think there was a mark on the upper and lower edges of the panel that when joined with a line showed the centre of the curve. This was formed by kneeling on the panel and bending the end up and "bouncing" it to shape. HTH Nick

Reading threads like this makes glad I have a large fuel rank and a well calibrated guage. I've never found my maximum range but I can do over 200 miles on a 3 quarters of a tank and can be confident when I hit the red I can keep going for ages.

Is the door on the wrong side? Looks to me like your holding the left door to right side of the car. I may be wrong, but worth a try. Nick

I've made a removable luggage rack for mine for strapping chairs or camping gear to, and a tow bar for either my trailer or trailer tent. I've not done any long road trips, but have driven in all weathers with not too much discomfort. Nick

Another option is Dampertech. Tell them it's for a 2b and Dave will know what you need. Nick

I built mine with the steering wheel/shaft higher than most and have plenty of room. Maybe look at lifting the steering wheel or if it was built with a tilting column it could be set low. HTH Nick

Sorted, it turns out I miss labelled some wires during the build (probably 15 years ago) and had swapped stuff round to fix. I only had to swap 2 wires over and it's all working. Nick

My bottom hose is a flexi one from a mk3 cortina. HTH Nick

Story so far.... Broke down last weekend, fuel pump not getting power, fixed at side of road. Found to be dodgy fuse holder. Decided to buy a 4 way fuse holder as I had a couple of other stand alone fuse holders of the same type. Stripped out fuse and relay mounting board to replace with plywood, checked everything worked (all seamed ok including sidelights but didn't check horn) Prepared new "board", pulled each connector apart, fed through board and reconnected 1 or 2 at a time. Re-mounted everything and tried starting car, success. Then went through everything to check if

All fuses checked with multi meter to show full short circuit, also checked in situ to prove voltage at both sides of fuse and connectors. I just can't find what it supposed to give power to side lights when switched on. I know it's the red wire in the loom but struggling to find on wiring diagrams for loom and Sierra which wire should be live when the sidelights are switched on. Just to add, I didn't go anywhere near the switch gear until I'd already spent a few hours checking everything. Thanks Nick

Help... I had to do some electrical repairs and now I've lost side lights, horn and hazards. I've removed some unused wiring and altered my fuse board but can't find anything I've missed reconnecting. The switches are from an '88/'89 Sierra ghia and its a VG loom. Pin 56 (brown black) ignition Live but goes to 0v when lights switched on. Pins 58 +30(?) (grey and red) permanent live. If I connect a wire from positive battery terminal to any sidelight wire in loom (red wire) they come on permanent. So that proves earth but what next? Everything else seems to work.