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Grim last won the day on December 15 2021

Grim had the most liked content!

About Grim

  • Birthday 02/08/1983

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  • Car type
    Fully stainless / green 2b, standard 2l pinto, self dismantling
  • Full name
    Andrew Wilkinson

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Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/5)



  1. it can and has been done before. You might find this build on the westfield forum interesting: https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/121032-the-fastest-accelerating-westfield-in-the-world-the-megawatt/
  2. if you're going for a full refresh (I did the same this year), get the nuts on the end of the axles loose before you undo brakes and remove the subframe from the car. They are tightened to ~300Nm, so you'll need to stop the subframe and axles rotating as you undo them.
  3. I checked my sensors recently after an unrelated fault in the injection manifold loom. I got ~4.4v cold and it turned out it was completely disconnected. You ought to rule out a wiring fault before replacing the sensor. Disconnect the multi plug on the sensor (on the inlet manifold between cyl 2 & 3) and measure the continuity/resistance of the wires to the ecu.
  4. a buzzing indicator relay is usually a short to earth in the wiring.
  5. Small changes to camber don't cause significant tyre wear. Unless there's excessive play in your bushes or other mechanical damage etc, the toe out is the only possible cause. I'm slightly concerned you get such large deviations in your measurement of toe - this suggests something is bent. Could it be run-out of the wheel? Can you swap it to another to get more repeatable readings? I have a track-ace and I have not found any noticeable deviation in measurements depending on wheel position.
  6. 20' toe out is enough to get uneven wear, and toe out would cause outside edge wear. Try setting them parallel and see how you go. Threads are right handed usually.
  7. I wouldn't pay in full before collection, but would leave a deposit of a few hundred.
  8. is your fuel return line blocked?
  9. I've had a few alternators do this, I think it's heat related damage as it's close to my exhaust. Eventually the output drops completely until it wont take the load of headlights etc and I replace it. I've now moved it further away, haven't driven it enough to say it solved the problem though.
  10. Grim

    E10 fuel

    I've replaced all the fuel hose on my car this year, partly due to age but I made sure to buy decent hose to replace it. I ended up buying cohline r9 (e85 compatible) hose as it wasn't too much extra. Aside from the rubbers/seals issues, the remainder of the material issues I see are from the corrosion of certain metals due to the slightly hygroscopic nature of the ethanol content. I'd be tempted to flush the car through with a tank of super if the car is going to be stored for any time, but if the car is in occasional use I would think the fuel should not absorb too much water in this time.
  11. If it's similar to the pinto, it's probably caused by the the idle air control valve being stuck - try removing it and cleaning it out as a first step.
  12. Grim

    how do you tell

    You'll have to take the head off and measure the chamber volume. Be aware that there are also low compression pistons in former transit engines which are stamped on the top.
  13. Grim

    Fuel filler cap fail

    a round piece of pipe formed around the cap to prevent access to the sharp edge?
  14. How did you connect the trailing arm hard line to the caliper flexi hose? I'm currently making some brackets to fit to the bearing housing, but wondered if you found a better way. I would have welded something onto the arm, had I realised I needed one before I painted it!
  15. I think mine must be an intermediate design between the two, it's got splayed (horizontally, but vertically fore and aft) bars in the centre of the dash, but the dash tube meeting the bonnet. Go with the above advice
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