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Everything posted by danielbrookes

  1. Hi, excluding VAT and without the gasket they are - I paid £600 inc VAT and the gasket. There’s also a long lead time waiting for them.
  2. Looking for £500 collected from Middlesbrough, can deliver at buyers expense. I’ve moved house and I’m never going to use it now. It’s brand new, never been fitted. Been sat on a shelf and comes complete with new gasket.
  3. And I rewired the whole engine loom, including injectors and the coil connection - everything from the engine loom plug. I made the loom in the first place so it was relatively easy for me.
  4. Sorry just spotted this, yep all still good. I haven’t done mega miles, maybe another 200 but no issues at all. I am wondering if maybe I had a bad earth for the ECU.
  5. Make sure you get photos of the part where the brake pipes leave the tunnel and goes to the master cylinder. It sounds like the same area already mentioned near the gearbox, if not clipped properly then the brake pipes can rub. My inspector wanted to see just inside the tunnel in the most awkward part - luckily I had photos which he was fine with. Had I not got photos it would have been a nightmare. Take loads of high quality pics and you can then zoom in to wherever needed on the day.
  6. Thanks for the feedback, I might check the relay connection, you mention a twist of the screwdriver - what did you tighten? The relay clips in doesn’t it, or was it the connection into the fuse box? Happy to say my cars still running well without Missfire. I’ve done about 100 miles now as the weathers been bad, but it’s 100 without problems :). Confidence returning.
  7. Sounds daft but have you checked the fuses? I’ve spent ages in the past chasing down problems and in the end it was a blown fuse. It sounds like you have because you mention changing the fuse board, but just in case I thought I would comment.
  8. Well still fine but I am driving round like an old woman. Another week of quiet driving and I’ll start to push here, then take her for a blast.
  9. Nightmare, when you reset the TPS it changes the throttle pot values for min and max. There’s a setting and tick box to enable idle control and configure when it kicks in, have you tried to disable idle control and/or checked the throttle pot value it’s enabled at? I don’t think that’s the problem though as it wouldn’t have cleared the map like you describe and would only affect idle.
  10. Hi, I kept the imobilser in the end, turns out I had used one of my “dummy” wires. My own fault but after realising today I now have power to the fuel pump. I seem to have solved my problem, the issue now is I don’t trust it. Need to bite the bullet and go for a decent drive. Sat on the drive she performs as expected upto 3k, haven’t tested much over as I don’t want to annoy the neighbours too much. Driving round the block at 30 she seems OK as well, which wasn’t the same before. Hopefully when I’ve plucked up the courage to take her out properly I’ll give a positive update! thanks, Dan
  11. Replaced the wiring for injectors and ignition, I didn’t find any faults in the loom and I checked every pin. Now I have no high pressure fuel pump, no 12v supply. I wonder if I have found my issue.... I have an immobiliser fitted that’s spliced into both the hp fuel and the starter, both controlled off separate relay. The starter motor works fine so I know the immobiliser is getting the signal from key and disarming. Can anyone confirm that both the HP and LP fuel pumps are connected to the same relay? The LP pump works. I’ve checked and double checked the wiring and I think I might have a faulty relay in the immobiliser itself.
  12. I would think it will be fine and your overthinking it, something I always do :). You could ring GBS tomorrow to be sure? They are really helpful if you call them - don’t email, phone is quicker they can be slow to reply to mail. Ive rang a few times and asked questions and they were always happy to help.
  13. Here is the one I had, you can see no cap: https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=radiator&product_id=320 If it helps I changed to a different rad layer on that had an overflow pipe at the top. I capped it off with some old coolant hose as a stop gap and that’s never caused me problems. Maybe the rad doesn’t get above 10psi so the fact it has a cap on it doesn’t matter is what I am trying to say.
  14. Normally you would only have one, not two. I remember when building mine, which is also a Zetec, I ordered the rad (with valve) and thermostat from kitspares. They rang me and said I need the rad without the valve and it’s worked without issue. Makes sense if you think about it. In your case it should still work assuming the pressure is less than 10psi (no idea if it is). Might also aid in getting rid of any air locks when filling.
  15. Not really the same but might be of use (or could be obvious who knows!). I built my own Zetec loom and started out with a big mdf board. I drew all the components on the board like air flow sensor, temp sensor, injectors etc and then put a nail where each one would be. I then wrapped the correct wires round the nail and tackled each wire one sensor at a time. By the time I put it on the car I knew the loom inside out, cut it to size, put the correct connectors on, documented and tested it. Worked for me and allowed me to break it down into manageable chunks. Perhaps a similar approach would work?
  16. Hi, as it’s intermittent (assuming it’s wiring) then my thoughts are if I take the wiring out then I can take a good look at it. Not too much effort to take out the engine loom to be honest, scuttle is removable and the rest is easy. I’ve taken it out and so far found no faults. I have however replaced the driver wires for all injectors and both sides of the coil, and the 12v supply to each. If the problem still exists afterwards then it’s time to speak to emerald.
  17. Thanks Paul, I ran the car upto temperature today and it worked fine - didn’t actually drive it but revs freely without issue upto 4K. Tested all the wiring and found no issue, however, decided to take the loom off the car and inspect it. I don’t want to just drive the car with an intermittent fault. If I don’t find the culprit I’ll give emerald a ring I think.
  18. I'm going to run the ECU earth directly to the battery negative post to see if that helps. I am guessing the voltage drop at the injectors is something to do with the injector drivers and I dont understand how they work. Given there are 4 separate driver cables, I have a good + supply to each injector and they all show the same voltage reading if I connect pin1+pin2 I doubt there is a fault (unless it is indeed a bad ECU earth).
  19. Hmmm. Even more interesting! I don’t suppose you (assuming you have an emerald) could check to see if you have the same I.e when the ignition is on, engine not running, you get voltage across the injector pins? I wonder if I have a wiring fault and they are earthing out.
  20. Even when the ignition is on Dan?
  21. Does anyone know if I should see 12V at the injectors with the ignition on? I've checked the ECU earth and its good, 3ohms resistance to battery negative. Not so with the negative on the injectors but as they go to the drivers I'm not sure if its normal or not.
  22. Some progress - maybe. I am getting 12V at the injectors but only if I earth the multimeter on the battery. If I use the loom I’m getting 9.9v only. That’s a large drop, assume I have a bad earth.
  23. Eugh I am starting to get annoyed now. My compression test kit doesn't fit, the thread is correct but its not deep enough to reach the thread in the block - frustrating to say the least. Issue still persists this morning. Battery voltage when idling is 12.6v and rises with revs, unsurprisingly the problem is still there. I've checked the resistance of the injectors and they are all the same, 14.9ohms (they should be 14.5 according to the data I have, but they are all the same). Does anyone know if I have the ignition plugged in should I get 12V at each injector plug on the wiring loom, because I am not I am getting less? I have the stock plastic loom for the zetec where all 4 connectors are together so would need to open this up to do some investigation.
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