richyb66

No pass required if you come in a kit. Driver gets in free and passengers are charged a tenner. Once we actually know where the stand is going to be, we'll let everyone know and they just need to head there and park up. The stand will be well marked with club branded banners and flags.

We are hiring the Curbourough Sprint Circuit on Thursday 30th May 2019 which is off the A38, north of Lichfield, Straffordshire. Initially this is open to 2019 Club Members only and we'll see how quickly the places go and then if there are free spaces we'll throw it out to everyone. We have places for 20 Cars available and the circuit can be used from 1000 to 1300 then 1400 to 1700 so there will be plenty of time for everyone. For safety there will only be one car on the course at a time and we will be using the top loop which keeps the maximum speed down to a sensible level. There is a 105dB static noise limit that MAY be enforced.All drivers and passengers will be required to sign an indemnity before using the circuit. More details of the circuit can be found here https://www.curborough.co.uk/ Places can be booked via our store link further up the page. If you book your place, please put your name on here so we can track who's going and how many places are taken. I'm aware that Thursday won't suit everyone but the dates (especially weekends and Fridays) get booked up quickly. If there's enough interest, we will try to book more dates later in the year and consider making it a more regular event. The cost will be £42 per car. Any other question, please ask and I'll try and answer them. Store link - https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/store/category/8-track-days/

I have been asked about passengers and they will be allowed, as long as they sign the same indemnity as the driver. To keep thinks manageable we are saying one passenger per driver so in effect, if you want to bring someone with you on the day, it's OK and there isn't a problem if the passenger wants to have a drive. On the previous occasions I've been to Curborough there hasn't been a requirement to wear a helmet. However, as the club will be responsible for safety, we are saying THE USE OF HELMETS IS STRONGLY ADVISED. We want to make this a fun day for everyone and part of that is making it as safe as we can.

Words don't do it justice.

I made a card template and then cut some black plastic sheet which slotted in to the bottom of the screen rail. I then ran a small bead of black PU sealer around the edges. The first 2 pictures are the mark 1 version but the centre of the scuttle isn't very well supported so on mark 2 (picture 3), I re-made the finishers around my screen vents with two small vertical tabs on the front edge and screwed the plastic through in to this which tied everything together much better and removed the potential movement between the screen and the scuttle.

Someone else saw it

Getting it IVA'd would be more ambitious. This is the perfect example why modified monocoque cars need an IVA before going back on the road.

It depends on what you want to keep dry. A split tonneau would keep water out of the passenger side while you’re driving but you’re still going to stick out of the top and get wet. I have a Surrey top and decent doors which keep me pretty dry but the doors don’t fit in the boot so once they’re on, they’re on for the day and getting in with the roof and doors on isn’t very diginified. Maybe you should consider a Surrey top and fabric half doors which will keep the majority of the wet out but you’ll still be able to get in and out fairly easily. I made my roof and doors but other people have used https://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/

Anywhere in the intake airstream, upstream of the throttle body. I've got mine in the airbox, just behind the air filter.

I'm really looking forward to this, The Stilton Run is always a good start to the year.

Red isn't a colour I've ever consider using for trim but I must say, it really does go well with the BRG.

Main problem with the mechanical pump is that it's not too clever for starting the car if there's not much fuel in the carb. I used to find that after the car was turned off and left for a long period of time, the underbonnet heat evaporated the fuel in the carb and it needed to be cranked for an age to full the bowl before it would fire.

This is still on for tomorrow and I'm planning on seeing Andi there. This is early in the year to be getting something up an running again in Staffs so the timing probably isn't going to suit everyone but he's got to start somewhere. Can I ask if people are considering supporting these meets in the future, that they give Andi some feedback to help him plan future dates. If he doesn't get some sort of idea what times / days are most popular, it will make the task far more difficult. You can post up here or drop him a pm and then he will keep you up to date with things.

Only a small update today as we only did a couple of evening’s work on the awning this week. We needed to add the top part of the side panel. Before this was sewn on though, we put a strip of Velcro across the top of the windows so we would have something to attach the curtains to. On the donor awning there’s sort of plastic channel section sewn on that the curtains clip and although we had kept this for possible reuse, we found that the strip didn’t bend very easily which would make it more difficult to fold the awning up. Using Velcro means the awning can be folded down smaller without risk of damaging the plastic strip. The Velco was initially attached with a row of stitching down it’s centre through the double folded edge of the plastic window. Next, we added the top strip which overhangs the top of the window by 10cm (the same as on the end panel) and has white bias binding sewn across the bottom edge. The top strip was sewn on with 2 parallel rows of stitching, again through the double thickness window edge. With the top piece added, we could mark out the rounded corners for the zip. Two lines were drawn on, 3cm apart. The outside line is was the cut line and then we would fold over the edge to the inner line and iron it to create a 1.5cm folded edge to sew the zip on to. The corner radii were marked out with our templates of 38.5 and 41.5cm (3cm difference) The panel across the bottom was made the same as the end panels – a strip of material for the top part, grey vinyl for the bottom and the plastic pegging toggles sewn in between. The zip could then be sewn on, starting with around 8cm overhanging from the pegging line. This is the end we started sewing so all the main part was to the left of the needle when sewing, outside of the machine where one person could support it while the other one did the sewing. At the opposite end, we have more zip overhanging which will need to be cut off. Here’s the whole panel, just the zip to shorten. The next part we will be working on is the main part of the awning that fits in to the side rail and has the roof and all the attachment pieces for the side and end panels.

Never one to shy away from a winter project, I'm about to embark on the next one which should see me spending the dark Winter evenings in the garage. Neither myself nor Jackie are particular fans of camping, something that was reinforced by 2 nights under canvas at Hoodstock this year. I quite fancied a challenge and so I've decided to build a caravan, mainly just because I think I can but also so we can use it occasionally. Jackie is dead keen on the idea and wants to help so a few months ago we bought a trailer tent so I can use the chassis as a caravan base. I did think of building from scratch, but going the trailer tent route means I get a galvanised, braked chassis that's rated at 900KG, more that enough for what I need. A couple of weeks searching on Ebay turned this up this 1990 Conway Challenger in Rhyl which we bought for £350. It had been stood for 12 months but all the lights worked and I towed it back without any mishaps. We bought it without seeing it erected but it was all there and came with a whole host of extra goodies, some of which may be of use. A day of light cleaning brought it up a treat, so good in fact that we decided to test it out at the EOSB and save ourselves the cost of proper overnight accommodation. For those of you who weren't there, (shame on you), here it is in all it's glory

Click on Chris's name in one of this posts which will take you to his profile then click the envelope icon to send a message.

Looks nice. Well done for sticking at it.

That's an offer you won't see every day.

What pump are you using?

Pretty unlikely you'll get a plastic tank the same size or anything similar to fit. Is it leaking on one of the welded seams or has it been holed somewhere else. If it's on one of the seams, you can maybe use tank sealer on the inside but you'd probably need to rotate the tank around to spread the sealer, you'll need to remove the tank. https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike-motorcyle-fuel-tank-repair-sealer.html Taking the tank out isn't going to be a 5 minute job, if you go that far, you'd be best getting it welded up properly.

2wd Cossy is the long cable.

Why the change to hydraulic operation, cable works well and has much less to go wrong. This may be why I can't recall anyone having done it before.

I would persevere with Premier Wiring - try sending them a message via their Ebay store: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/premierwiring-uk

What's it actually being used for. Speculating about materials and manufacturing processes is pointless unless we know what it's got to do.

Looks a nice job, you must be pleased with that.