Jez Morton

Two things I might suggest based on mine own mistakes. 1 Is the CAM 180deg out? Crank turns 2x CAM. 2 Timing marks are before TDC, maybe you need to go 108degs the other way

The tank on my early S7 did the same studs snapped off. I also found the tank too thin to support a gasket under the sender so it would leak between studs. I made a ring of stainless with studs attached to go inside the tank (needed a slot in ring to get it in). Fitted that with a gasket and a rubber gasket under sender, sealed it OK.

Make sure the chokes are off, their next to useless on DCOEs. All they did was flood my old car, I was advised don't use it and just press throttle 3 times then crank.

What does Roadside mean, are we on 6th Street in one row? I've seen that set up before.

Hi Rich is it meal and meet postponed or just meal. Ta.

Without specialist training don't, its dangerous. Most EV batteries are around 400vdc, make a mistake and it will kill you. Even flat batteries aren't safe, I've seen a battery from car that was scrapped 2 years ago and it was still at 100volts.

Hazards and indicators are fed from different fuses, hazards are live all the time and indicators from ignition. I think sometimes the hazard switches gets a bit sticky and need a bit of persuading to work, mine stopped and cycling the switch brought it back.

I fitted a none return valve that was in the sierra system, it kept the vacuum maintained on my car and stopped the dizzy bouncing.

Is your fan mounted direct to radiator? If not you need to make a shroud to force the air through it. For reference I'm using the Coolman rad (two core Cortina type) mounted behind the suspension cross members and the fan that came with the kit in front of them with a shroud running back to the rad. I've never had overheating issues, but the car gets very hot in summer so I switched to an 82 deg thermostat and 92deg fan switch.

Are you sure your looking at the right sensor? There's one in the cylinder head near the dizzy with a spade connection and one in the middle of the inlet manifold with the round connector. Cylinder head sensor is for temp gauge and manifold sensor is for efi.

Any recommendations for a powder coater to do my windscreen frames, will need to be blasted first. Replacing broken screen and they need something tougher than just spray paint as the doors rub through. Thanks

Just wanted to thank every who chipped in sorting me out after my screen shattered on the run. And a special thanks to Kerry for coming up the patented RHOCAR 3/4 racing screen, it worked a treat and got me home safe. Looked at the dash cam footage but could see anything hit it. Shatter.mp4 Will be looking to get a laminated screen over the winter. I think I was lucky with no injury just found a small shard stuck in my chest this morning.

If its OK warm, I'd be looking at the temp sensor in the manifold. Mine went but other way around I would get high resistance when hot so would rev at 1200 when hot. Sounds like you may have a short or low resistance when cold.

Yes I had the same issue, I extended the firewall up with new stainless and boot seal trim to close off, mine is the alligator bonnet. To get the height to extend I wrapped some round dowels/sticks with string and taped them to bulkhead at various points, the string holds the sticks but allowed the sticks to slide and be pushed down when the bonnet was closed. I had to do it this way as car was complete and access was rubbish. There will also be gaps down the side of the bonnet due to the bottom return, I closed these with some foam cut to suit and wrapped with heat reflect material. I finished the new fire wall 10mm short to allow room for the seal and also let it compress.

Sounds like green and red is both filaments on in series so will be a duller light. Doesn't sound like you have sides in there that would need a fourth wire.

I would avoid rotating the mushroom if its to far off centre you could exceed the ball joints range of motion. Lifting would raise ride height, but you could do that with the spring seats. Most if not all of the adjustment is in the top wishbones. Taller mushrooms are to correct the none ideal suspension geometry. There's a kit for the 2B, I've not seen one for the S7.

I managed a first time pass with windscreen fitted. I did need to make a small correction to mirror positions. I think the key is to present a car that looks properly finished and ready to use. When I was there a manufacturer was retesting a failed car and to be honest it looked thrown together.

Prop shaft UJs, gave me weird drive train vibration.

Might be worth checking the temp sensor under the manifold is ok, mine would get warm and go high resistance causing the car to over fuel. If its open circuit it might cause your over fueling.

I was with Admiral, they refunded £20 to everyone due to reduced mileage. But their renewal was way higher around £200. I did change car but found quotes 150 to 200 cheaper elsewhere. I'm now with direct line and they offer a mileage refund if you do less than expected.

I doubt I'll be able to find the carb set up from my old car, twin 40s fr32 cam. But I can say a rolling road session is probably the only way to get them setup and running properly.

Sounds like timing might be 180deg out, swap hts on dizzy diagonally.

Other side of engine. I'm thinking a bit of heat may have helped it on its way. I never seen a car so rotted away there's next to nothing left.

I think its a Fiesta, is this a Ford engine.

Could be. Here's another pic.