IanS

If you use stud lock with pozi A2 screws do not expect to remove the screw without either drilling or a fair bit of heat. Do you realy need stud lock suerly a lower strength thread lock like loctight 222 will be more than enough. Before I retired we used 222 on many very high vibration machine tools that we made without problems, just clean oil off before applying the thread lock.

Self drilling bolts can be reused a few times. Need a power screwdriver / drill to drive. Lite duty ones good for up to 5mm steel, heavy duty for up to 12mm steel. https://www.datapowertools.co.uk/ProductGrp/Self_Drilling_TEK_Screws_For_Heavy_Duty_Section_Steel

I was going to reply but richey beat me. There was plenty of info about cracks in the mono cars. I have not read any about the 2B chassis and I have been a member since 96 when this forum was just starting.

I also had a leak in the petrol tank. Tank looks just like yours. Leak was actally from a crack in the seam. I removed tank and emptied it. Painted aircraft fuel tank sealer round the seams on the inside ( do all seams as leaks travel ) PPG 1440 2 part sealer. It is expensive but it has held for over 20 years. I got it cheap as it was a couple of days off time expired. Now retired and these expensive solutions might not suit your finances.

About 20 years ago I did an inadvertent carbon clean of my wifes 1.2 vauxhall nova but only on cylinder 1. Driving along and suddenly large amounts of white smoke from the exhaust. Coolant level dropped so I topped up and crawled home. Right I thought head gasket gone so purchased a new gasket and took the head off, piston and valves to cylinder 1 looked like they had been polished the other 3 looked like you would expect after 60,000 miles so I cleaned them. The old gasket looked good but I replaced it and fitted the head back on and topped up the coolant. Started the engine and lots of white smoke, BLEEP, BLEEP. I took the head off again and then removed the inlet manifold (a lot easier with the head off) the inlet manifold gasket had gone between inlet one and the heater coolant takeoff, problem solved. The thing is just how clean cylinder one was, obviously coolish coolant hitting red hot carbon cracked it off, I do not say that this is a good way to decarbonise an engine but even at tickover it takes a fairly massive waterflow to cause hydraulic lock with most of the water exiting down the exhaust every cycle.

I am not able to reply to Alan Richies ( did I spel that right) post in the club info part. So one observation is that I only had problems when cuting and pasting content that had RTF and onward links. Doing everything in pure txt does not appear to run into problems.

Have had the same in events.

Early 2b sliding pillar suspansion. https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/suspension/products/copy-of-robin-hood-2b-double-wishbone-handling-pack This will change your car to double wishbone type suspension, it does require some welding if I remember correctly. Ian

Easy way is to get the complete rear subframe off a sierra that had rear discs. XR4 or Cosworth sierra. Be aware that you stand a good chance of being over braked at the back and will need some sort of restricter to the back. The drum brakes are more than adequate for our cars.

Ribin Hood had a lot of diferent suspension systems. Early ones were triumph herold based, Then came later model ford cortina front subframes. Then came sierra front subframe lower suspension with various upper modifications. We need to know which you have if we are to help. A picture can help.

Coolant temperature is only needed for cold start enrichment and switching on the electric fan behind the radiator. Cold start is handled by the carbs, Fan needs a seperate switch <https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/adjustable-fan-controller-thermostat> is one. Air temperature is also used mainly to control fueling as air density changes. Carbs being analog handle it automaticaly (they work on mass air flow). Immobiliser will probably end up as stearing colum lock like in the old days.

Ignition only just needs 2 inputs. 1 Crank position sensor 2 Engine load sensor, this can be either a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) or a MAP ( Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. The engine might or might not have a coil pack with it but you will need one!! The Zetec engine should have the crank position sensor working off a 36-1 toothed wheel on the crank shaft, you can use this. As you have bike carbs you probabaly need a TPS and this might already be with the carbs. The Canems unit does not need the original ecu but might not have an imobiliser function. Have fun.

(what did we do before Amazon next day delivery ?) Hit it with a hammer.

Albert Einstein famously pointed out that "If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?"

I have taken the old core plugs to my local independent motor factor who has a draw full of new ones to pick from, easiest way to get correct sizes.