IanS

Robin Hood deliberately offset the engine to allow a wider tunnel for the peddle box. This gives the driver a bit more foot room round the peddles.

I could be interested and have a pas-out. Lets see if I have the handbrake fixed or am in one of the Saabs.

A common way to do this is to drill and tap the flywheel to take the standard sierra pressure plate and clutch plate.

you are right the bleed nipple has to be at the top. It looks like someone has been careless in the boxing department.

Ferrari row Old American car. It is almost as hard to get into the drivers seat as it is to get into my Exmo with the roof up. And a 2CV with slight modification.

My reaction is that Richard Stewart used whatever parts he could get cheaply. So there was no standard seat. He would buy end of lines and adapt the kit to suit, adapting again when the current end of line ran out and another different one was found. Second previous owners could have changed the seat. So You say that there are studs in the seat. So if the external nuts are loose then trying to move the studs will tell you if they go into captive nuts or loose nuts or even if they are welded in studs.

The series 111 (roman 3) had a couple of front suspension setups during its production life. The main ones were either onboard or outboard. The inboard ones had coilovers just behind the nose cone. The outboard ones had them out in the open between the bodywork and the wheel. The suspension mounting points were not the same so you would require some fabrication to change over. With a bit of luck there will be cars with both types at the national kitcar show Malvern where you could compare them.

series 111 (3) was a mono kit available in both stainless and zintec.

The monocoque chassis kits were also available in zintec steel which is a zinc plated mild steel. Etch primer then paint of your choice or even wrap the car. Use a good mask when sanding down. Some very early kits used a 1 inch rectangular steel space frame chassis. Most people run 18 to 20 psi in the tyres. As the cars are fairly evenly balanced front to back the same psi all round.

Looks like start meetings again in April.

Any one ready for a first meet of 2025?

I think that the small bore pipe is for the dipstick. The Large bore is oil fill.

Main problem with mechanical pumps is leaks in the fuel lines / connections. Though I have had hardened valves in the pump causing failure once. After a longish time the petrol in the carb can evaporate causing long cranking times. Try priming the carb by using an old washing up liquid bottle with some petrol in it and connect it to the carb inlet with a short hose and squeezing some petrol direct into the carb, its a long time since I last did this but it does show if petrol starvation is the problem.

Not mentioned yet, but all the relevant bits of government information came be accessed through the following site. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval Have fun with the build.

Have you tried a push start?