IanS

I cannot open the pictures. As GAZ dampers I would be supprised if the rubber was bonded so grease between rubber and tube.

I have always been of the opinion that if a steel tube is expected to rotate on a bolt shaft it needs lubrication. BUT I also think that the steel tube should be trapped to stop rotation in a rest position as rotation can wear the bolt weakening it a risking catastrophic failure as a tube over a bolt will not have the close tollerance fit required of a bearing thus allowing hammer action in the joint. The poly bush wearing will be progressive so should be caught in time to replace the bush. I await other views.

My rear fog light works the same as yours. It is wired exactly the same as in the 1983 sierra doner and works the same. I have never had any problem with it at MOT time, on the road in 1997 and tested every year since.

A long time since I did anything with this setup. But I recall that the idle speed is controlled by the idle control valve which is prone to sticking. This sticking causes the engine to stall. So adjusting the throttle stop to increase the idle is a common "FIX". Then you need a bit of throttle to start the engine and if it is not to cold this works. As I recall short time of increased idle was normal on a fully working engine. Idle valve sticking normally cured by carb cleaner, the valve is closed at any power setting above tickover. Its main use was to improve MPG whilst in start stop driving conditions by having the lowest possible tickover so adjusting the throttle stop just costs you a bit of petrol.

I drilled the frame with the glass in. I slid a length of copper brake pipe over the drill bit cut to a length to stop the drill hitting the glass. I used self tapper screws to attach the press stud. I ground the tip off such that the screw could not hit the glass. Its been that way now for 25 years and 70,000 miles.

I went round the car breakers and got a full set of smiths guages off a triumph dolomite. The speedo was even calibrated the same as the sierra one, 1000 turns per mile. Cost £30 and a bit of work.

Yes second generation 2l block. Had an engine change and did not update registration. In the UK would probably only be of interest to the insurance provider.

Radiator and hoses will not be from the doner so can be fun to replace. For the rest try entering ford sierra 2.0l petrol year 1985. Fan belt (V Belt) should have a part number printed on its outer face.

If the doner was a sierra then there was no ballast resistor but a electronic module as in the link. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143733067141?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw7c2pBhAZEiwA88pOF2ojS2FL7mbtGvbwQaZjyEMrvdMtGeXwIVuxxoIVRBbkQ_7wDVcNIhoCC1IQAvD_BwE

Autosol chrome polish and a lot of elbow grease on the stainless. There is a large area to polish for a small car. Fiberglass needs Tcut. But be carefull not to go through the gellcoat (or paint coat )

It is a narrow tub sierra based S7. The clue is the trumpets covering the end of the rear subframe just in front of the rear arches. It uses the sierra front subframe which makes it Mark 1 Sierra S7. So the kit dates form 1994 to 1996. Have fun and drive like you stole it!!

I have not seen connectors like those in a sierra. It is probable that the loom has been split with aftermarket connectors. Do you know the age of the donner? There were several changes during the production run.

Pitched Circle Diameter i.e. the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of the bolt holes.

The upright looks to be Ford Cortina Mk5. The rest I have not a clue.

Definitley none standard. I recently had this on one of my Saabs which turned out to be alternator bearings, a right pain, as the exhaust has to be removed to change the alternator. Three belts repaced before the real cuprit came to light, alternator was good when cold but siezed when hot. This was also a toothed belt for alternator, water pump, aircon compressor etc. Good luck finding root cause.