mickpond

Thank you for the replies. I think I will have to go with what I (think) I remember. Mick.

I am going to fit Yamaha R1 carbs to my 2L Pinto using a Danst inlet manifold. I did it on a previous RH and was impressed with the ease of setup and the instant throttle response. However, I have a very poor memory so could someone confirm or correct the following? I think that all I had to do to the carbs was drill out the main jets to 1.5mm. I then had to fit an electrically operated low pressure fuel pump producing 1 to 2psi. Job done. Thanks. Mick.

Hello everyone. The new link given by Steve works so I will take some photos of my front suspension and compare to the photos.. Somewhere I've seen mentioned "Inboard Coilovers". Where would they be fitted and can they be retro fitted. Many thanks for all the info. Mick.

Hello Alan and Ian. Thank you for the replies. The link you gave me Alan cannot be reached at the moment. The V5 does not give a model But the SVA and the previous owners advert listed it as a Series 3. Does that help. I will start off with tyre pressure you have suggested Ian. Many thanks. Mick.

I have bought a Robin Hood that is not a 2B so does not have a Tubular chassis. I assume it is an early kit. What material will have been used to manufacture the chassis? what is the best way to prepare it for treatment? What should I treat it with? Named products would be useful. It has 185/55 x 15 tyres so what pressures should I use front and back? Any info/advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Mick.

Thank you both. You are absolutely right. I had actually looked at that diagram and still went looking for the mark on the top of the camshaft front bearing housing. I must stop having these "Senior moments" and going into panic mode. Mick.

I have bought a 2nd hand cyl. head for a 2L Pinto. Luckily before stripping things I try to record how they are when received. So, I rotated the Camshaft sprocket so that the pointy arrow inside the sprocket was vertically upwards and looked for the little dot to line it up properly but no little dot. Checked the Haynes manual and it confirmed that it should be seen when the arrow is pointing vertically upwards. So, I went looking for it and found it when the pointy arrow was vertically downwards (180 degrees out) . The sprocket is held from turning by a Woodruf Key so can only go onto the shaft in one position. Is Haynes wrong or is my cyl. Head wrong?

Thank you all for the advice. However I got it all wrong (I get a lot of these "Senior moments"). It has a Q reg No and that is what set the alarm bells Going. However I have contacted the seller and he assures me that he has the V5 and it is listed as a Robin Hood so all is well. Thanks again. Mick.

I have seen a 2B advertised but it has a "J" registration. What are the practical difficulties caused by this? Will it have to go through the SVA system? Will it be registered as recently put on the road so subjected to emission tests on the MOT? How will insurance companies treat it? Any other problems? Any comments gratefully received. Thanks. Mick.

If this is still for sale then I am interested. Could you please send a picture looking down on the top of the front suspension (See my post under Wanted) Mick

My Pinto engine needs reconditioning and at the same time I would like it worked on to get the output up to about 130bhp. OCS at Winchester and Brett Sims at New Milton look promising but has anyone had personal experience of their work? Any comments on the above or other recommendations will be appreciated.

Hi everyone. The symptoms are that I get some smoke when the engine has been at tickover and I then increase revs or blip the throttle. I had the head off during the summer to do some gas flowing (not porting). No1 exhaust valve had a soft black buildup of about 3mm covering the top of the valve seat that went right up to where the stem enters the valve guide. All the other valves were fine. I could remove the buildup with a scraper so as I said it was quite soft and I finished off with fine wet and dry. When reassembling I fitted new oil seals to all the valve stems and I purchased them from Burton Power so they should be good quality. To be honest the amount of smoke doesn't bother me But I am concerned about the MOT if I get a fussy Tester. I will know by the end of this month. I'm pretty sure the engine has not been converted to run on unleaded but the person who built the car ran it on unleaded and did about 3000 miles. I add a lead replacement additive which also has a ethanol stabiliser. To make it really confusing the engine number says it was produced Jan 1989 which is exactely the month Ford changed over to unleaded. So, it could be the last of the leaded or the first of the unleaded. My reason for thinking it's leaded is when I lapped the valves in the seats cleaned up with little effort. Had they been suitable for unleaded I would have expected them to be much harder. Thanks for the feedback so far. Cheers. Mick.

Is it possible for an amateur mechanic to change the valve guides on a 2L Pinto that has not been modified to run on unleaded? If so what is the procedure? I don't mind buying a couple of special tools. Cheers. Mick.

Hi Richyb66. I removed the Head. Although I did not disturb the Distributor, as I said, I did change Rotor/Cap etc. The Bosch distributor has a strange Rotor Arm in that it only has a 10mm hole that goes over the Rotor shaft. I had great trouble sourcing one so wonder if it is incorrect. I will put all the original stuff back on tomorrow and see the effect that has. Cheers. Mick. For Leslie's info. If you have a marking for 8 degrees btdc then by using a ruler you can measure the distance to tdc. Measure and mark the same distance the other side and you have a mark for 8 degrees AFTER tdc (simple).

After reassembling my 2l Pinto I find it will not accerated below 2000rpm and then takes off like a rocket. Although I had not disturbed the Distributor I strobed the Ignition and found it firing at tickover 8 degrees AFTER tdc and when revved just coming up to tdc (I did change plug Leads/Rotor Arm etc) Engine has Bosch dist with Hall Effect and Vac pipe goes to ECU. Haynes says timing is factory set but can be adjusted. Any ideas on what has happened? Which bolt do I loosen to adjust Distributor? Is it the one that goes into Block? Cheers. Mick.