mickpond

Yes, but please note that it has to be collected.

Nobody has shown any interest in these items so I am open to offers. Be a shame to have to take them to the scrap metal merchant. Mick.

The following 2B parts are brand new and still in packing. Orange Nose Cone. £70 (Cost £132) Stainless Steel Bonnet with integral Scuttle. Has holes drilled for Heater Vents and Wipers but no louvers. £200 (Cost £330). Starter Motor. Doner car was a 1987 Sierra with 2L Pinto and standard Gearbox so Starter was bought to fit this setup. £45 (Cost £90). Nose Cone and Bonnet will have to be collected from Bishops Waltham in Hampshire.

Hi. I wanted to list something on the "Wanted" forum but it would not let me do it because it said that I was not a member. Who do I contact to get this corrected? Please don't just give me a name. I need for details such as: How to locate him on the Website, how to send a personal message etc. Thanks. Mick.

Had a minor prang in my 2B yesterday. Result is a smashed Nosecone and a very bent and creased bonnet. I think the Nosecone is still available from GBS but not the Bonnet panels. Mine are stainless steel. Does anyone have some for sale? If not then I need a good fabricator in the Southampton/Fareham/Winchester/Portsmouth area. Cheers. Mick.

I'm impressed that some of you are getting 0 - 60 times of less than 7 secs particularly as these are "real world" figures. When I can get my brother in the passenger seat I will give it a try (Speedo is in the middle of dash so need someone to watch that and operate Stopwatch whilst I concentrate on Revcounter). Because of the comments on 1st to 2nd problems I will also have a go starting off in 2nd. I often do this in general driving because it feels quite happy doing so. If I can get less than 9 secs with 2 people in the car I will be more than happy.

Hi. Whilst browsing I came across this old post and thought some owners might find the following interesting. All figures are approx. Using Megadodo's data then I will assume a 2B with 2L Pinto weighs 750 Kgs. Standard Pinto gives 105 BHP. My 2L Pinto has been lightly tuned by Vulcan Eng. with Gas Flowed Head, Kent Cam, 4 Branch Manifold with Caterham Silencer, 4 Honda Fireblade carbs and gave a Dyno figure of 134 BHP. Subaru Impreza 2L Turbo weighs 1240 Kgs and gives 218 BHP (My favourite car). POWER TO WEIGHT FIGURES: Standard 2L Pinto 105/0.75 = 140 BHP/Tonne. My 2L Pinto 134/0.75 = 178 BHP/Tonne Subaru 2L Turbo 218/1.25 = 176 BHP/Tonne. Even the Standard Pinto figures are pretty impressive. Now the Subaru has 4 wheel drive and the Turbo and a 0 - 60 time of 5.8 Secs. I know just by feel that my 2B will not approach that figure (I have had 3 Subaru Turbos). However, the Pinto feels to have much better mid-range torque. So, under normal driving conditions, on the move, on B roads with some traffic I reckon it would hold it's own. I know that, when overtaking, if I drop a cog, I am impressed with the acceleration and short time it takes to overtake something. I'm quite happy for anyone to rip apart the above figures or statements. Also, like Alimcc, I would be interested if somebody has tried some 0 - 60 times. I am not a good enough driver to get a true indicative figure. Cheers. Mick.

The next time the garage is clear (I'm working on something else at the moment) I will get the RH in, jack it up, and see if I have an access plate. Fingers crossed!! Mick.

Several of the replies indicate that you only need to get to the Diff end of the shaft. This is fine when removing the shaft. However, when replacing the shaft, the UJ on the splined (Gearbox) end will allow the splines to flop about. I would have thought it very difficult to get them to enter the Gearbox if you can't get access to support and guide them.

Thanks for the replies and possible solutions. I think I will go for Chris's solution of a hinged side panel. Cheers. Mick.

On the assumption that, if I know how my 2B was built, I will know how to take it apart, I have been watching the Build videos and the following has struck me. Order of build/installation is shown as: Engine and Gearbox. Rear subframe and axle, Propshaft. You then start putting on the panels. When this is done you cannot see the front of the Propshaft from above or below. To remove the Engine and Gearbox you first need to remove the Propshaft so how do you get at the front? It would not make sense to cut out the Floorpan and if you remove the top of the Transmission tunnel panels it is still covered by the twin chassis tubes. Lots of you must have removed the engine and gearbox from a built 2B so what is the procedure? Cheers. Mick.

OK. Found them on Youtube. I can work my way through them slowly so as to give myself time to digest one part before moving onto the next. Cheers. Mick.

I did not build my 2B but bought it 3rd hand. If I could see how it was put together it has got to be useful should I have to take anything off. So, could somebody loan me their Build video for a few weeks? I will return it within a month and pay any P&P incurred. Is there anyway I can find out what the Donor vehicle was? The Reg No is E104 DRM. Cheers, Mick.

A few weeks ago I posted a topic titled "Suspension Setup specialist". The ride and handling on my RH was terrible. I had bad Bump Steer where, if I hit a bump, the wheel would leave the ground and when it landed would veer off. It was unpredictable and would sometimes go right and sometimes left. Result was I had to grip the steering wheel tightly and was constantly correcting. There were a couple of places that members have recommended but both were around Birmingham about 150 miles away. I decided to try one further South in the hope of adding a closer one to the recommended list. I found one at Kemble near Cirencester (80 miles from me) and booked it in. They found and corrected the following: Camber - NS cambered in 10 mm, OS cambered out 5 mm (Should be very slightly cambered in). Tracking - 10 mm Toed in (should be straight ahead). They also found the Steering rack Tie rod ends were different lengths and so were the top Wishbones. Additionally they lowered the front ride height so that (they said) the wind would tend to push the front down as apposed to trying to lift it. It has also reduced the spring pre-tension and given me a slightly softer ride. The transformation is amazing. The car is a joy to drive. Took them just under 3 hours and cost £250 including VAT. So, I can highly recommend them. Details are: Neil Garner Motorsport. Unit 8. Kemble business Park. Nr Malmesbury. SN16 9SH 01666 577449 Cheers. Mick.

I can't post photos. I am not the Builder and neither was the previous owner so don't know history. I have used Bob's quick method of checking Camber and got the following. Measuring over a distance of 15" (diameter of wheel). Drivers side wheel is leaning OUT, at the top, by 5 mm. Passengers side wheel is leaning IN by 10mm. Bob says both should lean in slightly. There are several things about the car that lead me to think that the car was built and setup for track use and has not been changed. I have decided to get suspension checked and setup for road use. I have found someone near Cirencester. When it's been done I will report back. Hopefully I will be able to add someone to the clubs "Recommended List". Thanks for all the interest. Mick.