Peter Bell

I have a Fiat rad in mine which has a sensor in the bottom, it’s a lower temperature sensor but can’t remember what value, has worked fine for donkeys years. I thought the good thing about that was if you had lost water there should always be some in the bottom of the rad not necessarily in the top hose. The indicator light problem mentioned had happened to me, queuing to get into Stoneley, I couldn’t work out why it started boing over when the fan was running, well the light was on but the fan earth had come undone.

It might be not too important to look for a sierra one I think the fittings were pretty standard on cars of that era. The little elbow and grommet that fits into the servo on mine wasn't from a ford.

Hi Nigel, this really needs to be moved to a new topic, first of all you need to find out what model you have, it's most likely an early monocoque, look at this site to find out Identification.

An LED in the charging circuit normally won't allow enough current through to excite the alternator, if you search on here you will find that some people use a filament bulb in parallel but hide it behind the dash.

Were these the 3 main wires going to the connector for the ignition switch, red, black, black/yellow? If so I had a similar problem when the connector failed, I cut it off connected them up as seemed obvious but discovered it should have been Red to red, black to black/yellow and black/yellow to black/blue!

If that doesn’t clear it and it’s running very rich check the map sensor.

Assume you have a filament type bulb as a charge light?

Have you tried spraying it with switch cleaner or even wd40? They get damp and corrode.

Hi Kevin many years ago I bought a cheap Aldi/Lidl version with an earpiece and Mike. The problem was there is so much noise you can’t hear the earpiece! It would be ok with a helmet on, I think you will need a set of over ear headphones like rally cars use. Then you can’t hear bits falling off either.

If you are you intending to use the existing slave cylinder looks like you have a problem with using a standard pedal master cylinder. What you need to know is how much movement the clutch requires, then measure how much movement your existing 5/8” master cylinder has. It’s a simple ratio calculation then ie. if your master cylinder moves 1” then a 5/8” slave will also move 1”.

Try contacting a local screen company if they will cut you one as above. I know it was many years ago but Autoglass cut me one for a Dyane once

https://nw.rhocar.org/mini_wiper_motor_wiring.htm, there’s an assortment of diagrams on the nw hoodies site that may be useful.

Does sound a bit like poor connections

I think it will, I’ve just measured one I have and the 32/36 fixings are about 93x46.

Think I have a 2l flywheel tucked away if you get stuck, (better check), and I'm not too far away. The welding technique works well if you can do it, the heat breaks the rust free.