Peter Bell

Could be anything really but probably Cortina Ujs, if they are staked then it need to go to a specialist if they are the old style with circlips you can do it yourself. I don't know if you can take the prop off easily on a Cortina based one, perhaps you can just drop the axle on those, it's engine and gearbox out on the later monococqes.

Vibra technics make their own version of these, they are not cheap but at least you know they are not 40+ years old. Look up escort or Sierra cosworth.

These were also used on the cosworth sierras so they were always expensive.

I did have a farmer uncle who many years ago bought a Renault Dauphine when they first came out (that dates it!) he loved it and used it all over the farm, when it died, rusted? he dug a big hole and buried it! I always wondered if anyone found it later.

I have done similar bashing on cam covers, they distort if they are overtightened. But I think you will need a bit more than a piece of wood and a rubber mallet to encourage it to move, a steel chaser and a biggish hammer against a steel plate

Do you mean to use two seperate reservoirs instead of the standard one? If so I guess you will just have to bleed each one seperately, ie. rear brakes, then the fronts asuuming that is the split. You will need a switch in each reservoir to know what is going on.

Yes its all very simple, you may find it's helpful to slacken the pinch bolt on the sierra upright and remove the dummy strut when you lift out the wishbone. It is a lot easier than trying to remove the top ball joint. The through pin should come out easily it just runs through the 2 bits of angle iron.

There is a long spindle threaded both ends as you can see in your photo, the tube on the wishbone has a bush pressed in either end as bearings, there will be an assortment of washers at each end too these are to set the castor angle. So you will need to replace the bushes as they dont get lubricated after installation, some people have added a grease nipple in the tube and fill it up with grease. I had a similar problem with play but when I took it apart one bush had worked its way along the tube towards its mate. When I reassembled it i made a spacer tube to stop it happening again.

Mr Whippy is selling a set of 2B wet weather gear on Locost builders site. Be quick though if you are interested, the site keeps going down at the moment. Wet weather

Same sump as mine, I have about 80mm clearance at the lowest point. If you have some clearance under the bonnet above the carb, (if its a standard set up) you could try spacers/washers on top of the engine mounts, to raise the engine.

Normally you want the lower suspension arm to be about horizontal, have you got a shortened sump or standard?

Assuming you have inboard front shocks you need 9" x 1.9" 120 lbs/in The standard ones were 170 lbs/in but were much too hard.

Seals follow this link for an alternative way to replace the seals, unless you need to take the head off to do other jobs.

Here's the now ancient socks fitted. It depends on the manifold you have, this is a Boggs, and I think the 2B is a bit roomier than a monocoque.

I measured mine a long time ago and these were the results, this is a 2l with a piper 285 cam and flowed head, no vacuum advance. Distributor advance, Bosch Hall effect. RPM Advance ° 1000 14 1500 18 2000 21 2500 24 3000 27 3500 30 4000 33