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RHOCaR Member
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About wowblaauw

  • Birthday 06/19/1964

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    GBS Zero std
  • Full name
    Craig Blaauw

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tickhill, Doncaster
  • Interests
    GBS Zero Zetec 2.0l fully forged turbo engine with Owen Developments GBT54 Turbo

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  1. All, looks like this is what I need: to extend my MT75 thrust bearing by 19/20mm see attached in the turbosport site will sort my short clutch arm travel. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=84458 If anyone here has a spare spacer and or thrust bearing please let me know. Thanks Craig
  2. Thanks Dean, much appreciated although I'm in need of a pressure plate which I have found from Turbo Sports. Arriving Friday but thank for the response, always humbled by this site, its members and knowledge. Cheers Craig
  3. All, Having nailed all my other issues, the clutch has been bugging me so I bought another AP pressure plate in the hope that it was my pressure plate which was causing this issue only to find that the replacement didn't fix this issue. Back to the drawing board so I removed the engine gearbox ahead of the final build to replace the whole clutch. My question therefore is, which clutch is favoured by the Zetec turbo to MT75 builds? Thanks again for all of your help, it is very reassuring to know that there is this pool of knowledge ready and waiting to help the poor souls like me. That said, if your Apple product Mac or iPhone or iPad breaks, then bring it to me... Cheers Craig
  4. All, As I am now in the final stages of this long winded nut and bolt rebuild/major upgrade - if it isn't the chassis, it has been replaced/upgraded - and am looking for one point of either advice or confirmation. I am using a Owen Developments 54 frame GBT turbo and am draining the oil from turbo via -10 line to sump via one of the scavenge ports and letting the scavenge pump back to tank. What are your thoughts on this? Any help/thoughts will be gratefully received. Thanks Craig
  5. I didn't know that - nice one Richy, guess what I'll be doing next time the magnet falls off...
  6. I ran my second pink wire through a relay and it worked as it should. You still have to switch the circuits with the key to make it work or depends on how you wire up.
  7. This might be relèvent might not. When I was wiring my 2b back in the day I had an awful time wiring up using vicky greens wiring harness schematic. In the end, a mate of mine a local auto electrician nailed it down to direct shorts and failures within the switch gear. I had three sets and all three were faulty. I did get there in the end with an exchange set from GBS. Just a thought
  8. I made a bracket which sat the sensor on top of the prop shaft flange to diff and calibrated it on the speedo if I remember. One thing I do remember is the instructions said two magnets in opposing positions on the prop which recorded double speed against my satnav so I removed one of the magnets, and with no further calibration (I might actually be wrong here) I had a speedo. I then fitted GBS’s p&p loom and the speedo stopped so I wired it directly between sensor power and the dial. Only fails when the magnet falls off so I used some Jb weld and voilà hasn’t fallen off in 500 miles.
  9. Scrapped that thought, I just bought an adaptor plate from J9 which will sit between the GBS thermostat housing and the head which has an M14 x 1.5 take off for the turbo coolant feed. Gosh, I'll have this running next week, thats going to be dangerous lol
  10. Thanks all for your thoughts. I am now thinking that I can take off from the cylinder head temp sensor as this is just a sensor with no output. I have the GBS thermostat housing which provides me with both temp sensors for ecu and dial. But, there I was thinking this is straight forward that its a 1/8' npt so i ordered a 1/8" npt to an4 fitting to run coolant to the turbo and then on to the rad. Fittings arrived from Torques this morning and have just tried fitting them and no, the thread is finer than that of the npt. Any ideas would be gratefully received.
  11. Richard, that’s great and thanks. But, can you tell me where on the cylinder head you took your feed from?
  12. Thanks Dean, but it is unclear from the images at redseven as to where he takes the coolant feed from although both cars look quite spectacular. Cheers Craig
  13. All, I hope you are all finding solace in your respective builds while this pandemic is raging. I started my nut and bolt rebuild to my GBS Std last December - with the rear end done and finished in no time with a completely new rear end, suspension, diff, drive shafts and hubs and brakes, I started on the front end. With the all of the suspension sorted in no time, I started on the engine bay. A refreshed hybrid ST170 block with RST pistons and steel rods ARP bolts, ported flowed BT cylinder head etc to make for a really strong engine. I have been beset by problem after problem with components being too large or not the right size - you know the gagg. One thing is changes and the repercussions and causality... I am now plumbing my newly acquired TOCA BTCC Owen Developments turbo in. While oil in and out is straight forward, my issue is where do I take the coolant feed from - there are. several opposing views on this, taking the feed from the lower intake from the radiator to the thermostat for take off. I also read somewhere that there is a port on the rear of the cylinder head for which a coolant take off could be had. Given my cramped engine bay and ease of access to the rear of the cylinder this would be my preferred option. My question is this, would it be OK to remove the 1/4" or 3/8" (not sure which at this time) plug and replace it with a coolant feed - my concern is that this isn't a plug for coolant? If anyone has an idea for this i"d be most grateful. Thanks in advance, Craig
  14. I’ll take them if Foz doesn’t. Thanks Craig
  15. Very interested in these but am not sure when I will be passing to collect and pay Thanks Craig
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