Snapperpaul

Should have read higher up. The only car I ever ran pressures like that was my 2 tonne Galaxy with 6 up in full holiday mode 20psi more like it did that make a noticeable difference?

What tyre pressures are you running?

Don’t raise the rear to cure the geometry issue, it only adds another issues. if you fit camber wedges and it does not cure the problem( or moves it to far the other way) you can remove them and have them skimmed. it all gets a bit complicated but an old oval racer trick is to use washers to change the rear geometry 1 washer at a time until you have the Geo you want then you will have measurements that can be transposed on to a camber wedge. The reason company’s that do 4 wheel alignment can’t realign the rear is that it is not adjustable.

ME have great customer service so that would be my first place to call and WTF are “ R1 Big Bang ITB’s” and yes I know they are ITB’s from an R1 but that means nothing. The Duratec works well with 44/45mm ITB’s (throttle plate diameter not inlet or outlet port size) and an RF 3S4G head

B is minimum level, oil should not ever be below this or oil starvation may happen, in reality you can go a little below but if you drive enthusiastically oil slipping about may uncover the oil pickup result damaged big end or main bearings D is maximum fill level and is there to prevent to higher level of oil where the crankshaft weights may it the oil and froth it to a useless foam, again you can over fill a bit but if you drive enthusiastically oil may slip into the path of the crank weights

I now have images but can’t add them, u2u or email me for images

The camber corrector does two things, corrects the camber issue and also corrects toe so it will be thicker top front and thinnest bottom rear. You should get the cars geometry measured before fitting the wedges and after because you need to know what the numbers are. Toe out on the rear is not good.

No but it is as simple as it sounds

Just replied a second time oops

I ran 2”x1“ box under the car from each mounting point. It acts like a suspension strut and replaced the anti rollbar i also used 90 degree plate inside the bay to sandwich the stainless panels

You need to take the PCV off as it only works with manifold vacuum. the catch tank should be baffled with wire wool in and have a separate filter outlet or vented cap. you run a pipe from the crank case to the tank and another from rocket cover vented cap to second catch tank inlet or out of the rocker cover itself. i run 16mm outlets and pipes. another system is to run the crankcase breather to the rocker cover and run a second outlet from the rocker cover to the catch tank to reduces oil loss. on later blocks there is a plug into the crank case on the right hand side

I agree with you 18-20 is a better range and don’t forget pressure rises with heat. Something I have not done is to take pressures immediately after a hard run

The 3a is relatively light and I found I had to drive like a maniac to get Toyo CF1’s to get enough heat to grip. i run 22psi all round and have 120Lb springs up front

Please refer to my pinned post and other posts I have responded to. there are all the measurements you need to find the correct level of oil and the correct length of dipstick tube and the relationship of min and max levels on the dipstick

Cobra seats fit as do Baby Cubs but if your looking for cheap then perhaps Kart seats and some homemade headrests