Snapperpaul

Please refer to my pinned post and other posts I have responded to. there are all the measurements you need to find the correct level of oil and the correct length of dipstick tube and the relationship of min and max levels on the dipstick

Cobra seats fit as do Baby Cubs but if your looking for cheap then perhaps Kart seats and some homemade headrests

I’ll have the worst dizzy as I want to cut it down for a Megajolt install

The cc thing is all about road tax. if you got to bigger engine above a certain cc it would increase your road tax. the engine number is a deal if your pulled over by plod we have used car clubs for valuations can’t see an issue with trying that route

Exhaust back pressure myth

Once again the back pressure issue comes up, engines don’t want back any pressure You confuse this with scavenging caused by tuned sound wave pulses which is a dark art I have tried to dabble with. The calculations involved are complex and specific to your engine. exhaust diameter at a basic level is about port velocity and includes primary, secondary and collector lengths and diameters. in the most simplistic terms a bog standard Pinto will be just about ok with a 2” pipe from collector to tail, I would prefer 2 ¼” again on a bog standard engine but any tweeking such as an air filter or long 4 branch manifold I would consider 2 ½” as about right. back pressure backs up to the exhaust valve, when the piston rises to push the exhaust gas out it meets the back pressure and has to work harder pushing the gasses out... you loose power pushing it out that could be used to turn the rear wheels.

Age related registration plate is not as difficult as some make out. it is all about evidencing and no more difficult than it was decades ago it’s just that most people consider it far to late in the build process, I did and had to do a lot of work to get the evidence needed. I asked tricky dicky for a copy of the original build receipt at Stonleigh one year and he wanted £200 for it, I was never going to pay that.

You can just buy the rubber and slide it in

The seatbelt holds you and the seat in 8.8 is just fine the support load spreader is important

90C degrees is fine I only worry if it stays at 100 for a long time what static timing are you running? what is the peak advance at between 3k & 4k

300psi is not achievable on a Pinto so suggest you gauge is not working properly

I used two metal bars to bridge the studs as just bolting up the studs caused the tank to bend. I used oil filter seals and a cork layer. A ring of steel would probably be even better

My cousin is a heavy lorry mechanic, yes he has a lot of Snap-On stuff but also uses Mac just as good a bit cheaper. He buys Sealey and often takes advantage of Machine Mart VAT free offers. There is no 1 right answer. for the keen amateur Halfords is an excellent choice but I will also buy Aldi or Lidle stuff if it won’t get hammered to much

If your going to buy a Type9 to modify start with a V6 version as they have better ratios to start with. you will only need to change first gear to a 2.7. input shaft is longer but if your rebuilding you can replace the long input shaft with a standard length one or use a 40mm bell-housing spacer, the bell housing will need to be swapped for an in-line one as engine bolt patterns are different. there are 2 variations of V6 Type 9, the one with the larger lay shaft bearing carrier which sticks out at the front is the one to go for.