Snapperpaul

No manifold sold

Tin box, noisy when it rains, condensation, in hot weather it’s like a sauna, they always rust and hammerite paint is so much more expensive than wood stain or wood paint and then there is lightning…

I am going to the Malvern show and maybe the Newark show as well. Malvern is a camping job Newark I can do in a long day

I’ll take it, posted please, message me to sort payment and postal address Ta

Do you still have this? I have had problems with clutch pedal position on my car and this would probably solve the problem

A friend with a sliding pillar 2b bought the double wishbone kit and fitted it, I have photos of what needs to be cut and where the brackets go somewhere, send me your email and I’ll look them out for you.

I have done a huge amount with the car over the last year and am now going to look at the geometry in a bit more detail, currently I have camber wedges on the back and little else, I have looked at the Haynes build your own sports car by Chris Gibbs, some very old notes from Track Developments and came across Caterham CSR settings and this is the confusion I am trying to deal with. across the 3 the range for camber front is 0.25-1.5 degrees rear 0.66-2 degrees caster 5.5-6 degrees (CSR only) Toe front 0-0.5 rear 0.16-3 i am tempted to start with the Haynes settings but for now what are other peoples RH S3 settings for Caster, Camber & Toe Front and Rear thanks

I have been meaning to do this for some time on my S3, the problem is that I have Cobra seats with the seatbelts going over a crossbar on the roll bar and through the seats but mounting on the rear of the car meaning I need 2 pockets for the seats and some strategically placed cutouts and zips or Velcro, clearly this is way beyond my skills. where do I go? Who can help?

I took the frame apart, drilled and tapped the holes, shortened the cap head bolts and checked clearance. I fitted the glass with bicycle inner tube originally so easy to get apart. I fitted reversed rivnuts in to the lower frame to fit the completed frame to the support arms.

I would buy new pistons and have them flush to block deck which is better for squish, you then have the opportunity to adjust compression ratio with gasket thickness and head skim

Oh yes it is, my original RH can (I won’t call it a silencer as it was more of an amplifier) was way to load for SVA which had a 101db limit, I ended up having a silencer made, 1” wider and twice as long, re-packable and so much more liveable

Have sent photos on one of my engines, this manifold was used once on an engine dyno I stayed with the standard Robin Hood manifold as it was already fitted to the car

No I don’t have a full system for it

Will do, it’s at a barn I rent so give me a couple of days. send me your email and I’ll send photos. On the dyno I made 170bhp with this manifold

I’ve got an over the side rail stainless 4 branch available, only used on an engine dyno for a few runs from new.