Snapperpaul

I would go back to basics and take out the jets and clean them with carb cleaner and jet brushes, I’ve just done this with some bike carbs and you’ll be surprised at the amount of fine dirt that comes out. I have a very small pot with a lid and spray enough carb cleaner in it so I can immerse a jet, soak that for a little while then take it out and use jet cleaner brushes (some are just twisted wire) and push through every hole, I also have some canned air but a compressor would be better just don’t blow the jet out of your hand. check all the cast in air and fuel runs in the carb bo

What air filter are you using? it may actually be running lean if air flow is greater than stock or running rich if you have one of those chrome/wire things that are ½” thick

Thermostat is a must or at least a blank plate with a hole as the high water flow can cause air pockets to form. would recommend an 82degree thermostat Do you have a header tank? If not then the hose from pump to manifold will be the highest part of the system and will have air in it, fit a T piece with a small cap and do final water fill through that. Even with a header tank this hose can have air in it so T piece solves the problem. When it’s cold of course

That is the answer, the S7 or S3a have a large cross beam where the suspension mounts and that will block over half of your radiator airflow. Mount the radiator in the nose at an angle if required and put the biggest fan you can fit on it (in front is ok). I used some alloy tube to extend the lower pipe through the bulkhead and silicone for the top. once this has been done and you have driven the car report back. i had a number of issues originally as I had a standard single core Cortina radiator, I moved to a cool man double core with 42 tubes up from the 27 single tubes on the orig

I asked my cousin who is a very skilled panel beater and painter the very same question. his advise was to key the surface or any paint would not adhere to shiny stainless. I would explore etch primer after keying the surface with wet & dry then use a high build filler. Be aware that every panel edge on a Robin Hood is like a razor... ask me how I know!

Should have read higher up. The only car I ever ran pressures like that was my 2 tonne Galaxy with 6 up in full holiday mode 20psi more like it did that make a noticeable difference?

What tyre pressures are you running?

Don’t raise the rear to cure the geometry issue, it only adds another issues. if you fit camber wedges and it does not cure the problem( or moves it to far the other way) you can remove them and have them skimmed. it all gets a bit complicated but an old oval racer trick is to use washers to change the rear geometry 1 washer at a time until you have the Geo you want then you will have measurements that can be transposed on to a camber wedge. The reason company’s that do 4 wheel alignment can’t realign the rear is that it is not adjustable.

ME have great customer service so that would be my first place to call and WTF are “ R1 Big Bang ITB’s” and yes I know they are ITB’s from an R1 but that means nothing. The Duratec works well with 44/45mm ITB’s (throttle plate diameter not inlet or outlet port size) and an RF 3S4G head

B is minimum level, oil should not ever be below this or oil starvation may happen, in reality you can go a little below but if you drive enthusiastically oil slipping about may uncover the oil pickup result damaged big end or main bearings D is maximum fill level and is there to prevent to higher level of oil where the crankshaft weights may it the oil and froth it to a useless foam, again you can over fill a bit but if you drive enthusiastically oil may slip into the path of the crank weights

I now have images but can’t add them, u2u or email me for images

The camber corrector does two things, corrects the camber issue and also corrects toe so it will be thicker top front and thinnest bottom rear. You should get the cars geometry measured before fitting the wedges and after because you need to know what the numbers are. Toe out on the rear is not good.

No but it is as simple as it sounds

Just replied a second time oops

I ran 2”x1“ box under the car from each mounting point. It acts like a suspension strut and replaced the anti rollbar i also used 90 degree plate inside the bay to sandwich the stainless panels