Snapperpaul

For IVA they require load spreading washers under the floor, this is worth doing if you don’t have a support member or equivalent under the mounting bolts

After rooting around the engine bay, the carbs are Keihin VP I’ve have literally just pulled a set of Keihin VP’s apart, needles are not adjustable so apart from jets, float level and the mixture screw there’s not a lot to change. keep us posted on how the fuel regulator works for you

Change or bypass the fuel filter. see if this has solved the problem. i have a Malpassi filter king fuel pressure regulator with built in filter set to 1.5 psi Bike carbs are usually gravity fed so don’t need much pressure. bike carbs have limited ways of tuning with out going to a rolling road however there are a few things you can do at home. bike carbs have an idle adjuster that props open the butterfly’s a tad, it’s usually a cable with a ½” thumb wheel and the cable goes to the throttle stop, you can turn this to set an idle speed when the engine is warm. Those carbs look like Mikuni’s and may have adjustable needles, you can access these by taking off the top plastic caps, remove long spring, pull out the slide be carful not to damage diaphragm, turn upside down and needle will fall out. If needle has 5 grooves in the top part, a circlip and a collar you can adjust the mid range fuel by shifting the clip position. Up = lean, down = richer. To set idle air/mixture there are screws at the back of the fuel bowl underneath the carb outlet these may be under an alloy plug which needs to be carefully drilled out to access and are a real pain to adjust. I suggest you leave these alone for now and get back to us if all other suggestions have failed. Ditto float levels which also affect fuelling. Do you run an air filter? If not you will be running lean and idle will be a problem.

My cousin has flexible long reach screwdrivers and I have used ¼” drive socket extenders with bit drive ends to good effect. I used gaffer tape to make sure the bits don’t drop off

I have added this link to a Locostbuilders thread that I had forgotten about, it shows the measured distance from block face to min and max dipstick levels http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142862

Be aware that some of the valves or flame traps are one way valves used between manifold and servo. i mistakenly added one before the vacuum line to the Megajolt and as vacuum increased it set the advance at 1 level and stayed there

Just a thought if all else fails swap front break pipes on the master cylinder, if the other side locks up it’s the master cylinder most master cylinders have two outlets for the front, 1 for the rear which goes to a T piece near the back

Gauges measure differential resistance, they usually only have 1 wire to the sender, if the sender wire is broken or the sender does not Earth through the block the gauge will read maximum. often to much PTFE will block the sender earth, I only wrap half of the thread in PTFE. If you have a T piece or double output adaptor that takes the sender and the warning light switch you’ll probably have PTFE on that as well. you could try a crocodile clip on the pressure sender body and earth that to check

I’m doing my brakes as we speak, found the left front also locks first but not by much. The master cylinder has 3 connections front left, front right and rear, once tyres and brakes are warm the front pulls up square I think the 1 wheel first thing is a Robin Hood trait. The rear drums are not worn much at all, this is normal for drum brakes on a light car and remember at IVA they check the tears don’t lock up first this balance is not easy to adjust but you don’t need more braking to the rear in normal driving

I stick the gasket to the maticulously cleaned sump gasket face with grey hyloma let that dry overnight then a thin smear on the exposed surface and present the sump to the block using the bolts to hold it gently in place, let it dry overnight then nip up to required ft/lbs one of the places the Pinto leaks from is the rear main bearing caps, I squirt Grey hyloma down the gap the sump triangle wedges go in before I push them in and smear the external joint face

I have he very same issue, I don’t like the idea of half a gallon (2.273045 litres) of Sikaflex self supported so am looking at a stainless steel blank for the outside and still thinking about the inside look, possibly an insert covered in dash material. There will be sikaflex involved (don’t sniff it, it’s really hard to get of your nose hairs) to seal the stainless blank from the inside.

If you have standard Pinto injection and Ford ecu and it’s all running well and you have a vernier cam I would suggest you have an FR34 injection cam which has the same valve overlap but more lift. a good simple way to get more out of an injection Pinto pull the rocker cover off and look st the back end of the cam, it will have letters and numbers stamped into the end which will tell you what cam you have. firring an aftermarket ecu will not make any noticeable difference and you would only need that if the cam was more aggressive and the engine not running well.

If got photos of a sliding pillar to wishbone conversion which I can transfer by Dropbox, we transfer or burn to disc

Vizard says 7mm less venturie than carb number. yes the 40’s can take a wider venturi but you get less of the venturi effect