Peter Bell

The 1.6 and 1.3 had 8” rear drums, different to the 1.8 and 2l which had 9”. I believe they had smaller dia. drive shafts too so perhaps that’s why your seals don’t fit? They also had solid front discs, think of all that weight saving!

Talk to Dampertech they should be able to supply you with 3/8" bushes which is the bolt size. The way I solved it was getting some thin wall tube turned up which pressed into the damper bush.

I always get confused with offset but Sierra wheels are usually ET38, I suspect your car has been fitted with 18s so the front tyres have plenty of clearance from the suspension buttress. So if you fit 38s on the rear it should I think, move the wheels in 20mm. Check if there enough clearance inboard so there is no interference with the shocker/spring whatever the rear arrangement is. If you were nearer I could lend a set of wheels to try.

Looks like you have twin 40s in which case just leave the hose in to a catch tank. The standard set up is a PcV valve into the block the other end connects to the inlet manifold.

Just be aware that when you pull the shaft out of the diff that oil will come out, so use a drip tray.

Do you believe your gauge? Have you overfilled the oil?

Citroen 2CV did some ‘square’ ones

Hi again Alan, I'm surprised at your castor angles presumably you have very little steering self centering, can I suggest you try to increase the nearside to at least equal the offside. 3° to 5° I think is the accepted norm, perhaps this would help the left side pull as well.

That looks like a Dave Andrews mod to use Capri rear shockers instead of the Sierra ones. http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ You could just get adjustable Capri ones, otherwise if you go for coilovers you’ll probably need to strengthen the brackets and some guess work on the spring rates. Are the existing springs a problem?

I doubt if you will get it any closer than half a degree, as you have to turn the ball joint a whole turn, are they 1.5 pitch? If it pulls to the left on braking check the rh caliper is working properly and not slightly rusted/sticking

It's not always necessary to split the ball joint Al, can you just pull out the dummy strut from the upright, or have you got those very long ones?

Try contacting GBS, Great British Sportscars, current incarnation of Robin Hood they may be able to help.

Aah too late!

I don't know the part no but I'll take a picture later in the week, I haven't got a cap for it. What's wrong with yours?

I think I have one with the 2 pin connector.

Have you tried Avo? They are in Northampton.

I have a Fiat rad in mine which has a sensor in the bottom, it’s a lower temperature sensor but can’t remember what value, has worked fine for donkeys years. I thought the good thing about that was if you had lost water there should always be some in the bottom of the rad not necessarily in the top hose. The indicator light problem mentioned had happened to me, queuing to get into Stoneley, I couldn’t work out why it started boing over when the fan was running, well the light was on but the fan earth had come undone.

It might be not too important to look for a sierra one I think the fittings were pretty standard on cars of that era. The little elbow and grommet that fits into the servo on mine wasn't from a ford.

Hi Nigel, this really needs to be moved to a new topic, first of all you need to find out what model you have, it's most likely an early monocoque, look at this site to find out Identification.

An LED in the charging circuit normally won't allow enough current through to excite the alternator, if you search on here you will find that some people use a filament bulb in parallel but hide it behind the dash.

Were these the 3 main wires going to the connector for the ignition switch, red, black, black/yellow? If so I had a similar problem when the connector failed, I cut it off connected them up as seemed obvious but discovered it should have been Red to red, black to black/yellow and black/yellow to black/blue!

If that doesn’t clear it and it’s running very rich check the map sensor.

Assume you have a filament type bulb as a charge light?

Have you tried spraying it with switch cleaner or even wd40? They get damp and corrode.