Peter Bell

Let’s hope the turnout will be marginally better than last year!

When hot at tickover mine drops to about 15, mechanical gauge. How accurate it is though no idea, I tend to think that most car gauges, at least old ones are indicators rather than accurate.

They used to be available from Ford but listed as cosworth with the associated price hike!

The spring colours are misleading from RHE, the original red ones for inboard suspension were 170 lbs/in which were too stiff, many have changed them to around 120. RHE sold them and were supposed to be black, but the ones I bought were red, I also have a pair which are blue! Is your car inboard or outboard shocks? If you remove the springs and are lucky they will have the rating written on the end.

Can take your old hoses into a decent local factors on a quiet day and see if they could help? I did something similar many years ago with a shape drawn on a bit of cardboard and they let me go through a big box of odd hoses!

I remember it well, good to see it back out.

I’m sure the top wishbone is a rhe design I’ve seen similar on an early cortina based car. The lower seems to use a cast control arm with an additional front section, it could be triumph not sure if it looks ford. What is the pcd on your front wheels, if its 108 then it’s likely a ford upright, if it’s different then triumph 4” pcd or 41/4”?

I've got a pair of original 2b top wishbones if thats what you mean.

The cam marking is an indicator and you may not necessarily get them exact. Also if the head has been skimmed it will put it out, if you really want to get it right use a vernier pulley and set it up correctly.

The big nut holds the rear bearing/driveshaft assy, don’t undo that even if you could. The drum should come off but is probably rusted on at the centre where the black paint of the drum ends and the rusty spigot begins. If you haven’t already got one get a Haynes Sierra manual, the brakes are all in there.

Sorry just saw your reply so the pump should be fine, its the float needle valves in the carbs that may not be seating correctly.

Any particular ford?

The original (red) spring rates for the inboard suspension models 1, 2, 3a, were 170 Lbs/in and were too stiff so people changed them to around 120. One of the many things that RHE were inconsistant with were the spring colours, I bought 120s from them which should have been black but they were red too. The geometry of your suspension with the more conventional? set up will be much greater than 120 Lbs/in. I have seen a Mk 2 car with external shockers like yours but whether there is an owner on this site with one and knowledge of the spring rates I wouldn't know. Doing away with the roll bar and fitting tie bars makes a great improvement in the handling, Usually the roll bar is just bolted up from underneath but it almost looks as though yours is inside the monocoque? Where abouts are you, and it's well worth joining this club for information and advice as well as getting a reduction on your car insurance!

Personally I would do away with the vacuum advance on the dizzy, it’s only there really to improve fuel consumption, sounds like there are lots of possibilities for leaks, just leave one line for the servo. What fuel pump are you using, have you got a pressure regulator? Sounds like possibly carbs 3&4 are just flooding, are the needle valves ok in them?

Where abouts in Bedfordshire are you?

If only you could find the prototye of the Rager!

There was a small shower about 2 then a heavy rain at 4 which was a shame as a great band called barefoot doctors were just starting their second set as everyone dived for cover! for about 20 mins then it dried up.

I'm no electrian but why 2 ignition modules? If you have the dizzy with the 2 wire round plug I'd just connect up the ford module as it was originally.

THe show was good, loads of interesting cars, good entertainment but a bit lonely.

I have received the following information regarding the Kimbolton show, I hope it works ok. We are in a different area this year, next to the East Anglian group and near the MGs which are celebrating 100 years apparently! Kimbolton Classic Car Show Information For Drivers 2023.pptx

It’s a series 3a which is based on a Sierra, they came out in ‘82 so a bit odd, I wonder what the donor was claimed to be?

Take the cam cover off and check the rocker fingers are all in the right places

Hi I've received this information from the organisers, I hope it makes sense. I am delighted to announce the availability of online ticket booking for classic car clubs. This service is live now. Tickets can be booked and bought individually by each car club member, so club organizers no longer need to distribute wristbands. Club members can book here: https://www.ticketsource.co.uk/kimbolton-castle-rotary-club Members will need to use the following code to access club stand tickets: KCFCCS2023 Club members can book in advance to access the early bird price of £13.50 until 18th June 2023. Please note: this system does not allow any way for us to track how many tickets have been purchased by each club. This means that we are relying on you, our car club organizers, to ensure that your club does not exceed tickets for the number of cars you have booked a stand for. If your club has more cars than can fit in the stand space, additional vehicles will be asked to relocate to Area 99 (general exhibition area) or public parking if the show is at capacity. You can request additional space for your club until 9th June, after which stand spaces will be locked to enable the stand plan to be finalized and shared. If you have any club members who are not able to, or don’t want to, book their ticket online, we will still have options to pay by cash or card on the way into the show. Towards the end of June, you will receive an email with the site plan and details for how to enter the pay lanes to make parking as smooth as possible. Dream Rides will be taking place at the show again this year so if any of your members are interested in participating please get them to visit the SBMC website for details. Support vehicles will not require tickets to enter but must relocate to the public parking area as soon as possible. Also, if for any reason your members do need to turn up in their daily transport instead of the classic they were hoping to bring, please can you ask them to park in the main public parking to preserve the display aspect of the show. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ALL CARS IN THE SHOW MUST BE STATIONARY BETWEEN 11am and 4pm ACCORDING TO HEALTH AND SAFETY RESTRICTIONS ON THE SITE THIS YEAR. This is a strict requirement and not adhering to it could result in cancellation of the show for future years. Last year, we had a number of cars trying to leave the site for a variety of non-urgent reasons and this is not acceptable in line with the requirements from the Council to keep the public safe. If any members are aware of situations that may require them to leave early, please ask them to use public parking. I hope you all have a great day again. Please remember the aim of the show is to have a good time AND support local and national children’s charities. See you there!

1.7 mains is a good starting point

Not sure, the s7 is narrower than a 2b. but could be made to fit?