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Longboarder last won the day on May 20

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About Longboarder

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    Old Stager
  • Birthday 04/05/1948

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    New 111
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    Nigel Thurstan

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    Surfing, cars classic or kit and nurturing a deepening and I suspect mutual hatred of computers.

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  1. Red herring. Probably to the rev counter as you say. Another thought. Do you get warning lights on the dash? All there? Oil light goes out when cranking? Rev counter registers? Disconnect 18 anyway in case its blown through to earth via the rev counter. (Thinking: when you wrong plugged it something in the dash got 12V it wasn't expecting or able to cope with. Hence the spark.) Did you wrong plug when the ignition was on ( If so the spark might be unimportant or very important.) or did you get a spark when you switched ignition on after (in which case the spark is vital)?
  2. I hope it's just the impact switch but if not...... Could you make a list of what is working when you switch on ignition? Wipers, indicators, heater, dash warning lights, dash illumination, dash gauges, main and side lights, brake lights, etc? Absolutely everything you can think of. Can you then go through the relays and coil with a multimeter or bulb to see if you have power to coil positive, 30 and 86 on the ECU relay and 30 and 8* on the fuel relay. A what's it for question. The connection from coil negative to 18 on the instruments? Who puts anything other than a switching wire on a coil negative?? Can you take it off the coil neg and do something else with the wire from18 on the dash?
  3. I think you have a missmatch there. Never come across that combination before. From my own experience. The zetec friction plate is thinner than the sierra one, the zetec pressure housing is again thinner than the sierra one. Using zetec 1.8 plate, zetec housing and cct133 works (But slips at about 160BHP) or redrilling the flywheel for sierra plate, housing and cct132 also works (And takes more torque!) and is what I currently use with uprated organic plate for 200bhp with no slip. All the five speed sierras (1.8, pinto, DOHC, CVH) used a 25.4 x 23 spline. So did a lot of the MK1 Mondeos. Most zetec Focus didn't. I suspect your combination just bolts up solid with no free space to allow the clutch to disengage. Your cheapest option is just to get a 1.8 Mondeo 1 friction plate and swap out the sierra plate. Quinton Hazel part number C1189AF should do fine. It's for MK1 mondeo 1.6 & 1.8. 220x25.4x23. (You can use all the other existing bits and you don't need to change the pin.)
  4. Took these pics when I did mine. Can't believe it was 13 years ago. I added one C clip and found the throw was right for me. Clearly you can add several to taste. And yes, chopping board for spacer, cut to shape. Spacer thickness and distance the 'half ball' is moved must be the same or the gear change may be pants or stuck!
  5. Having a constant earth on the negative/switching side of the coil will work fine. No sparks. Very little risk to the coil but it could overheat if ignition was on for half an hour. Still mch cheaper than having the car stolen.
  6. Current practices change with the years. Mine was SVA in May 2000. Mine states in special notes . 1. Non transferable registration mark. 2. was registered and/or used. Declared manufactured 1985.' No record of emissions anywhere on my V5C. Pre SVA kit cars may have been registered as Sierra or Cortina but V5C was supposed to be updated when new legislation came in later around the time of SVA but pre IVA I think. Any kit still registered as sierra is wrongly registered. Amended. Done more reading on the web and come across many cases of wrongly registered kit cars correcting the V5C with DVLA. (Also some which have had to undergo SVA/IVA.) So it's possible to correct the V5C but it is several weeks of hassle with DVLA, possible inspection and presenting evidence (like old photos, tax discs, service records, MoTs, etc) that prove the pre SVA history of the car.) Perhaps correcting emission standards is also possible.
  7. Type bosch wiper motor 0390216054 into ebay. Lots of modern, front wiper motors with similar looks to yours. (modern + front = two speed and five wires). Once you know some of the cars that have similar wiper motors you could hunt your local scrapyards clutching your old motor for comparison.
  8. My VVT pro was bought direct from ME just before they sold it to TriggerWheels, and has been problematic although it does seem to still work, but only in 2D mode. (Advertised as 3D.) The software is in my opinion something out of the 80's. Very clunky. Seems to refuse to do and confirm changes in the map but when I next drive the engine note changes where I have made the map changes so it does seem to have accepted them, even though the software says it hasn't. I have had zero support from ME. I'm not convinced Trigger wheels understand it either and they have no obligation to me anyway. I couldn't recommend buying an ECU from ME due to my opinion of the poor quality of their software and lack of interest/assistance/customer support, although I have had no experience of the ME100. Haven't spoken to them for 3 years so they may have changed. If I was going for VVT control again I would upgrade my Omex 600 to any of the quality brands that included proper cam control, such as Omex or Emerald.
  9. A 'leaded engine' runs fine on unleaded petrol although the lower octane level will require ignition retarded a couple of degrees but suffers valve seat erosion which of course will eventually cause a compression drop and running problems. It is possible this has happened and if yours doesn't have hardened valve seats then a compression check would be worthwhile. Cylinder heads with valve seats for unleaded were stamped with letters on the exhaust face close to spark-plug number 4. See pic below. Letters for 1.6 are M, MM, N, NN. 1.8 are S, SS. 2.0 are L, R, RR, P, PP.
  10. Tuned pinto needing a more reliable electronic spark. The aftermarket choices must be powerspark or accuspark both of whom can supply a distributor for about £100. You can tell them current/future mods to the engine so they can provide the ideal advance curve built in. They may specify an ideal coil as well. Very simple to fit and reliable. Only an ECU controlled 'non distributor' ignition system with mappable spark tables will do better such as megajolt from someone like Trigger-wheels but more expensive of course and will need mapping on a rolling road for perfection.
  11. I have to disagree with you there. Thermostats are simple and amazingly effective devices that have been around for a hundred years and remain the cheapest most effective and efficient way of maintaining the engines operating temperature within relatively narrow parameters. The design of the cooling system is also important to avoid air locks and allow proper flow of coolant. The thermostat flow control also allows the fitting of a radiator with sufficient heat exchange capacity to cool in hot weather when driving hard without over cooling in subzero winter days. I wouldn't want to drive without one.
  12. Basic problem is the water rail. Designed to took good but ignores the problems remote thermostats bring and the install instructions do not suggest using a header tank (or they didn't when I bought one years ago). Having the stat 9inches down a blind tube with no flow is not a great plan so you have to create flow. Hole drilled in the fixed part of the stat and I would suggest 5mm diameter is the best solution. Fill, run up to temperature and keep topping up as you run the engine with occasional rev-ups for 10 minutes. Addition of a header tank is also a good thing. If it doesn't self bleed air under these circumstances the cooling system has other flaws. The raceline rail is much better designed, cheaper but not so blingy. The original stat housing works perfectly and the raceline one saves less than an inch of space in comparison. (My blacktop stat housing cannot be removed with the engine in situ but I can change the stat in situ.)
  13. The ESC11 with DFTH carb that went with it are a bit clunky and overcomplicated. If you have a poor running engine then changing to an accuspark dizzy and converting the carb by removing the stepper motor and making up a screw type 'throttlestop' to allow you to set idle will simplify matters. This will only help if you have checked through the usual culprits for poor running like cam timing, compression, air leaks, ignition timing, dizzy components, leads, plugs, jets, fuel supply, float height etc and they are all ok. What carb are you using?
  14. ESC11 and its Bosch 'Hall Effect' dizzy are already electronic, albeit with a more conservative ignition map than say Accuspark. The ESC11 also controls manifold heater and the stepper motor on the carb for idle control. Is there a problem with the unit? Changing to accuspark would be unlikely to give big gains but is perhaps a little more adjustable. I ran ESC with twin 40's and it was fine.
  15. True it's not a good design creating the potential for air to gather in the hose but flow is pretty vigorous at that point which reduces the effect. You could have a look at the hose length. Cutting an inch off each end of the hose will lower the rear arm of the hose that attaches to the stat housing but not the arm on the radiator. Further you may be able to raise the radiator a little. I would also have a look at the gearbox mount under the rear of the box if it's a type 9. Raising that by mounting it above the floor rather than under it will drop the front of the engine and it may be able to be shimmed up even further without problems. Probably not much you can do to lower the engine mounts without endangering the sump but make sure they are not shimmed up. Is the sump already shortened?
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