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Longboarder last won the day on July 21 2019

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About Longboarder

  • Birthday 04/05/1948

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    RH monocoque New 111
  • Full name
    Nigel Thurstan

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  • Interests
    Surfing, cars classic or kit and nurturing a deepening and I suspect mutual hatred of computers.

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  1. Agree to all the above for current recalibration. Are you saying the pedal only partialy opens the throttle butterfly? If so then you have extra performance potentialy available. Slight lengthening of the pedal arm to give more cable movement or reduction in length/diameter of the throttlebody arm to require less cable movement, each giving full butterfly opening could be a good plan. However changes to the emerald map would then be needed as top end airflow would be greater than currently. But free extra power? Whats not to like?
  2. Escort/fiesta 1.6 pump. Not Mondeo 1.6 pump. My later solution (I first had a silvertop, then a blacktop then another silvertop and lastly a ST170) was to make up a three leg pedestal holding a V groove pulley and run the mondeo pump off the back of the belt. There are handy bolts or holes to mount it.
  3. Another thing to check is that the ignition timing is not over advanced at cranking speed. The problem being the cylinder first firing too early slows the still upward travel of its piston. This happens on good engines when firing starts before the cranking speed is high, then all the others join in, keeping cranking speed too low. Simple test is to retard the dizzy a few degrees and see if the cranking speed improves. With earths I have an overkill three! Battery to car body, engine to battery and engine to car body, so return circuit is doubled (in case of one connection being poor.)
  4. To add to the above with the escort and mondeo zetec belts, they have different belt runs. The pump is turned clockwise in the escort/fiesta 1.8 and 1.6 , the mondeo pumps 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 (or maybe just the 2.0) are turned anticlockwise. For a simple run without idlers an escort pump works fine. Belt run can then be as below, a simple triangle. All the pumps bolt up to all the blacktop zetecs. The obvious visible difference between the two pumps is the straight exit pipe you want. The pump you have has an angled exit pipe. Pumps are 30 quid on ebay.
  5. I vaguely remember that the water pump from the 1.6 or 1.8 fits straight on and turns the other way. So long since I did it I've forgotten the details.
  6. Most tachos of the 60's, 70's and 80's are three wire, connecting to ground, 12v ignition live and to the 'negative/switching' side of the coil without disrupting whatever switching wiring is already in place. The switching wire may come from points, ECU, or some other electronic module. Just leave that in place and add the wire from the tacho (by convention often green) to the negative pole of the coil.
  7. Zetec blacktop 2.0L bolts onto type 9 standard bellhousing and I guess is easiest but won't get to more than 180 out of the box but 200 is easy. SE/Sigma is a yamaha engine so special bellhousing needed which I guess you already have but only 160. Duratec HE I4 2.0L is a mazda engine so needs a new bellhousing but would be closest to 200 out of the box. I would probably go proper duratec if I was doing it today. Over the years I have had pinto, silvertop, blacktop, ST170.(all modified). Next step was going to be to supercharge the ST but I got too slow as I got older and the car got too fast. Most fun was probably the pinto. All sound and fury. The ST is silly. Find myself unintentionally doing 110 on a dual carriageway slip road when I just intended to get up to joining speed.
  8. I run an ST170 and it has been a long hard and expensive road to get to 200BHP. You will need extensive headwork, all the usual as they are crudely finished and the exhaust ports are the same size as a blacktop, ie pretty small! Without fully controlling the inlet cam, power crashes above 5000rpm. Moving to the SE1700 has all the same problems. If you are thinking of keeping to a budget then modifying the 1600SE or going blacktop zetec 2000 is easier, cheaper and you will get close to 200bhp. Just because you have an ST manifold is a daft reason to consider the engine to go with it. Proper duratec 2000 is an even easier engine to get to 200 horses and only a little more expensive.
  9. Longboarder


    Surprised by that suggestion. Maybe not in todays UK full of people with no moral compass. Just don't tell me about any zero that used to be a Robin Hood. I guarantee I would report it as we all should.
  10. Well, didn't know that! Every day's a school day. Pretty sure my column was not adjustable but just been out to look and yes, there is a pinch bolt as shown.
  11. This sounds like an ideal case for a home visit from local members in the Hampshire area. Probably a simple problem but the dearth of clues suggests a logical comprehensive checking process to diagnose. As it has run since rebuild it is almost certainly a simple fix. I'm 71 and currently being investigated for a neurological problem, ? Parkinsons. Distressing to start a simple job on the car and find what you did easily a couple of years ago either takes forever or you just can't do it anymore.
  12. Obsessional nitpicking, but those are twin dellorto DHLA which I preferred over the webers. I'll get my coat.
  13. Does your V5C give emission figure standards and if so what are they. You should be able to tell from them if you have a chance of passing without a cat.
  14. Hazards have a battery live supply. Indicators have an ignition live supply. So possibly the indicator supply has failed by fuse or wiring or the mechanics of the switch have failed.
  15. Longboarder


    Still thinking about the apparently poor spark. You have the right coil for the accuspark dizzy. Are both getting good clean 12v supply. Might be an idea to confirm this by rigging temporary flying leads, one direct from battery positive to the + terminal on the coil and the second to the + on the accuspark accuspark. This is to cut out any imperfect wiring in the harness. Then start her up and run as normal. Note, you may not be able to switch off without pulling the + lead off the coil. If the misfire is still there after a decent test then you know your car engine loom is OK.
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