Jump to content


RHOCaR Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Longboarder

  1. Agree to all the above for current recalibration. Are you saying the pedal only partialy opens the throttle butterfly? If so then you have extra performance potentialy available. Slight lengthening of the pedal arm to give more cable movement or reduction in length/diameter of the throttlebody arm to require less cable movement, each giving full butterfly opening could be a good plan. However changes to the emerald map would then be needed as top end airflow would be greater than currently. But free extra power? Whats not to like?
  2. Escort/fiesta 1.6 pump. Not Mondeo 1.6 pump. My later solution (I first had a silvertop, then a blacktop then another silvertop and lastly a ST170) was to make up a three leg pedestal holding a V groove pulley and run the mondeo pump off the back of the belt. There are handy bolts or holes to mount it.
  3. Another thing to check is that the ignition timing is not over advanced at cranking speed. The problem being the cylinder first firing too early slows the still upward travel of its piston. This happens on good engines when firing starts before the cranking speed is high, then all the others join in, keeping cranking speed too low. Simple test is to retard the dizzy a few degrees and see if the cranking speed improves. With earths I have an overkill three! Battery to car body, engine to battery and engine to car body, so return circuit is doubled (in case of one connection being poor.)
  4. To add to the above with the escort and mondeo zetec belts, they have different belt runs. The pump is turned clockwise in the escort/fiesta 1.8 and 1.6 , the mondeo pumps 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 (or maybe just the 2.0) are turned anticlockwise. For a simple run without idlers an escort pump works fine. Belt run can then be as below, a simple triangle. All the pumps bolt up to all the blacktop zetecs. The obvious visible difference between the two pumps is the straight exit pipe you want. The pump you have has an angled exit pipe. Pumps are 30 quid on ebay.
  5. I vaguely remember that the water pump from the 1.6 or 1.8 fits straight on and turns the other way. So long since I did it I've forgotten the details.
  6. Most tachos of the 60's, 70's and 80's are three wire, connecting to ground, 12v ignition live and to the 'negative/switching' side of the coil without disrupting whatever switching wiring is already in place. The switching wire may come from points, ECU, or some other electronic module. Just leave that in place and add the wire from the tacho (by convention often green) to the negative pole of the coil.
  7. Zetec blacktop 2.0L bolts onto type 9 standard bellhousing and I guess is easiest but won't get to more than 180 out of the box but 200 is easy. SE/Sigma is a yamaha engine so special bellhousing needed which I guess you already have but only 160. Duratec HE I4 2.0L is a mazda engine so needs a new bellhousing but would be closest to 200 out of the box. I would probably go proper duratec if I was doing it today. Over the years I have had pinto, silvertop, blacktop, ST170.(all modified). Next step was going to be to supercharge the ST but I got too slow as I got older and the car got too fast. Most fun was probably the pinto. All sound and fury. The ST is silly. Find myself unintentionally doing 110 on a dual carriageway slip road when I just intended to get up to joining speed.
  8. I run an ST170 and it has been a long hard and expensive road to get to 200BHP. You will need extensive headwork, all the usual as they are crudely finished and the exhaust ports are the same size as a blacktop, ie pretty small! Without fully controlling the inlet cam, power crashes above 5000rpm. Moving to the SE1700 has all the same problems. If you are thinking of keeping to a budget then modifying the 1600SE or going blacktop zetec 2000 is easier, cheaper and you will get close to 200bhp. Just because you have an ST manifold is a daft reason to consider the engine to go with it. Proper duratec 2000 is an even easier engine to get to 200 horses and only a little more expensive.
  9. Longboarder


    Surprised by that suggestion. Maybe not in todays UK full of people with no moral compass. Just don't tell me about any zero that used to be a Robin Hood. I guarantee I would report it as we all should.
  10. Well, didn't know that! Every day's a school day. Pretty sure my column was not adjustable but just been out to look and yes, there is a pinch bolt as shown.
  11. This sounds like an ideal case for a home visit from local members in the Hampshire area. Probably a simple problem but the dearth of clues suggests a logical comprehensive checking process to diagnose. As it has run since rebuild it is almost certainly a simple fix. I'm 71 and currently being investigated for a neurological problem, ? Parkinsons. Distressing to start a simple job on the car and find what you did easily a couple of years ago either takes forever or you just can't do it anymore.
  12. Obsessional nitpicking, but those are twin dellorto DHLA which I preferred over the webers. I'll get my coat.
  13. Does your V5C give emission figure standards and if so what are they. You should be able to tell from them if you have a chance of passing without a cat.
  14. Hazards have a battery live supply. Indicators have an ignition live supply. So possibly the indicator supply has failed by fuse or wiring or the mechanics of the switch have failed.
  15. Longboarder


    Still thinking about the apparently poor spark. You have the right coil for the accuspark dizzy. Are both getting good clean 12v supply. Might be an idea to confirm this by rigging temporary flying leads, one direct from battery positive to the + terminal on the coil and the second to the + on the accuspark accuspark. This is to cut out any imperfect wiring in the harness. Then start her up and run as normal. Note, you may not be able to switch off without pulling the + lead off the coil. If the misfire is still there after a decent test then you know your car engine loom is OK.
  16. That seems like a reasonable explanation and it was happening both before and after the rebuild, suggesting the rebuild has not addressed the problem. Now you could be pumping excessively to fill the rocker cover or the draining is restricted in some way. Long time since I gazed at a pinto head with the rocker cover off. The engine has to be level for the oil to reach the drain holes. The holes must be open and unobstructed. A nut or bolt could easily find its way into them without passing through and cause an obstruction. Any missing? Can't remember where and how many there are but I would have the rocker and sump off and probe each drain hole with a magnet on a telescopic rod, them a wire coat hanger and a bottle brush to ensure they are clear.
  17. Longboarder


    Just in case, have you checked the strength of the spark on the other three plugs. Might not be as localised as it seems and they might all be weak and cylinder 4 (possibly the least efficient mechanicaly due to wear, sticky valve or whatever) just the first to show the problem.
  18. They are usually shown as the pic below. Split system, tandem pistons, pressure reducers? on rears. Intended connections are one front and one rear to each piston and thus equal displacement for each piston (near as makes no odds). You have one piston working two disc calipers for the fronts (lots of fluid) and one piston working two drum slaves for the rears (little fluid). When the piston currently feeding the rears has shifted its fluid and the rear brakes are hard on both pistons stop. Quickest check for this is swap the rear and one front connector on the master cylinder and bleed then try the brakes. Volumes each piston needs to shift would be closer but not equal so watch out for uneven braking, pull to one side etc, but I would hope more effective braking. Don't know if you need to use the reducers or not. First try without but be careful. If so then I would re-plumb with the pressure reducers going to the rears as indicated so the MC works as intended. Yes you would need two lines to the rears. Benefit is the safety of a genuine split system.
  19. I think an air lock is unlikely if the pump is giving 8.5 bar. That's enough to purge any air and yes it will purge through the injectors easily. You can confirm that the pressure regulator is on the fuel rail outlet and not at the input end? Fascinating (and handy) that the fault is so repeatable. Then in use for your fuel pressure to fail something goes beyond its weakest point. I suspect the fuel pumps ability to suck is its weakest point. Replace the low pressure pre-pump filter with a cheapo £1 ebay see through plastic one or even temporarily test run without it if your fuel tank is clean enough. My first thought was fuel filter clogging and collapsing and the pump failing to suck through it. Release of hose at rail allows slight back flush to slightly clear the filter. Air (if it enters) enters between LP filter and pump. If it's not the filter then something in the tank blocking the outflow. Other thought was tank vacuum but you say no. No this doesn't explain why touching the inlet hose is a problem and may not explain why releasing it cures it temporarily. I take it you have examined those joints and the holes are unobstructed. Would be usefull to know what the fuel pressure gauge reads when the engine stalls.
  20. In the traces above is the pale blue line revs? If so, should it not be continuous? Crank sensor problem?
  21. Sounds like an air-lock. Worth checking the stat to make sure it has a hole and jiggle pin to assist air bleeding. Easy on the zetec as it's just three screws.Make sure you refit with the jiggle hole uppermost. The run the engine up to temp plus ten minutes with the rad cap off and keep topping up. Then refit rad cap. That will usually shift air. Sadly I have warped one zetec head by boiling it when I had a hose rip.
  22. To replace kit car dampers the first and most important measurement (which the supplier won't have) to take is the length, eye to eye, when the car is at its normal ride height. You can wind down the current spring platform positions and then jack up to get the ride height to what you want it to be. This gives the supplier the running length of the shock and allows them to select a shock that roughly has two thirds of its movement for compression and a third for extension. Spring rates are affected by corner weight and shock angle mostly and will be individual to your car. For a series 3 with almost vertical front springs about 100 to 120 I would guess. Rears about 300 if in the centre of the trailing arm pans but 230ish if from the original shock mount, assuming they are close to vertical. More if angled.
  23. Just to check you are not using a facet style square block LP pump with bullet filter are you? As shown below. These bullet filters are infamous for wierd fueling problems. Pumps are OK ish, used with a £1ebay simple plastic paper filter.
  24. And it's a new series 111. Would also suit anyone with a very tatty or bent series 3 or new 111 who wants to rebody.
  25. Did you get round to fitting a fuel filter after the HP pump? That was something left over from your previous thread, along with the custom map. You still running on a generic map? Have been reading your blog. Good read. DB4 GT Zagato still my favourite car. Going back to basics (but I'm still tending towards ignition), can you detail your fuel system. What pump do you have for LP/what LP filter/swirlpot/HP pump/filter/Fuel rail/pressure regulator. Can you draw up the circuits like below (which is mine and fairly typical I think).
  • Create New...