Bob Tucker

Your problem is that there is no manufacturer. Robing Hood supplied the original kit, which has no certification at all. Its then assembled by one or more amateur builders. In the UK it then goes through the IVA, which certifies that it meets all the appropriate regulations. So sorry, no IVA, no certificate.

That is a classic description for a driveshaft seal leak. They are pretty common, ive never heard of an inner seal leaking. If it was me, Id change the driveshaft seal in situ & see what happens. It just needs the drive shaft removing. It possible to do without disturbing the brakes. To remove the old oil seal, drill a small (1.5mm) hole in the seal face, insert a self tapper, and pull on that. Make sure to follow the Haynes manual. You dont push the new seal all the way in up to the shoulder inside the casing.

I'd guess it coming in between the roof and the top of the screen. I had the same problem when i used poppers to hold it on. . I tried a strip of rubber tube glued to the top of the frame, better but not cured. Eventually i replaced it with a slide in C shape aluminium tube for a caravan awning. No more leaks, Please if at all possible ditch the alligator bonnet. Mine failed on a motorway, flew up, jammed the steering, and sent me into a barrier writing off my car. The only reason im alive is because the windscreen frame broke off the pillars before it decapitated me.

Dave Andrews was the guru for all things pinto back in the day. His figures and advice still apply today. well worth a read. http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/timing.htm

Im with Foz. Just take it easy for the first 1000 miles. Youre already over the first big hurdle, running in the cam. Pintos are notorious for killing the camshaft in the first 100 miles.

You need a variation of these. these are for a sierra hub, it looks like you may have cortina hubs? I'd wait to fit the cycle wings until after youve fitted the 15 inch wheels. Take a look on specialist tyre website that give you the rolling circumference of different tyres. you may find theres very little difference between your 14s and the new 15s depending on the %age ratio, eg 50/55/60/65. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=dar019&x=8&y=10&osCsid=58n06l7fov72f4du0nlqvqskc1

How would ABS respond to having stones chucked at it? I would think aluminium would be more stone proof?

Splines on the gearbox input shaft not aligned with the clutch plate teeth

I had this exact setup. I got mine from Helix, they do a bespoke clutch plate, and a heavy duty pressure plate as a kit.

If its on a Hood its probably a Cortina.

the usual "mechanic" test is can you twist the belt on the longest straight run 90 degrees. If less its ok, if more its too loose.

recommendation for the 2B is 7 inches from ground to the cill directly in front of the rear wing. It was designed (why??) to have a big gap between the wheel and the wing.

Phaeton, I dont disgree. I wouldnt use an angry grinder, I used a Dremel to do mine.

Its a coach bolt, id cut a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver, then replace it.

Sorry mate, that sounds like a b***ered big end, especially as iit disappears when you disconnect the plug. IMHO its too deep to be a small end. That would be more of a rattle than a clonk. Hows your oil pressure?