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Bob Tucker

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Bob Tucker last won the day on November 28 2018

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About Bob Tucker

  • Rank
    It'll be OK in the end, if it's not OK, it's not the
  • Birthday 03/01/1950

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B + 16vXE +wishbone conversion (&MX5)
  • Full name
    Robert (Bob) John Tucker

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orpington, Kent, BR6 9AN
  • Interests
    Drag Racing, Aircraft (full size); Radio Control Aircraft; Sea angling; All other motorsport.

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  1. Bob Tucker

    Alps in July?

    Keep 'em coming Neil, really enjoying them.
  2. https://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=spray+bar+pinto
  3. A heavy duty spring either end of the shorter cable? Post some pics of the setup. especially the throttle pedal. Can you connect the supercharger cable a bit higher than the other throttle cable giving more throw?
  4. Bob Tucker

    Throttle cable

    Solder the end of the wire. Clean it using W&D paper first, then soapy water, clean water, warm air to dry, then lots of flux. Run solder into the final inch or so.
  5. A bit off topic now, so I'll leave the thread for the OP's st170 question after this. Thats the final figure. I tighten in 3 equal (ish) steps, finishing up at 32 and 65. But I stress they are ARP non-stretch bolts/studs, so no direct comparison for stretch bolts. The rod end bolts torque figure seems crazily low, but this is the 4th redtop ive built, all using ARP rod bolts. One was even designed for 8k rpm with forged rods, & is still running strong (right Kevin?) https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/109-6001.pdf
  6. Just for interest I'm building a modified Redtop (again) using ARP bolts everywhere. The settings are 32 ft lbs big end bolts, and 65ft lbs mains studs.
  7. Well those figures are backed up here too, but it does seem to refer to ARP bolts https://www.focaljet.com/threads/torque-specs-zetec-engine.510001/
  8. I am coming at this from zero knowledge of this engine, but it seems odd that the conrod bolts are far tighter than the mains bolts, or is that all to do with different stretch properties? Just interested.
  9. Just re-read earlier posts.... Hi Blue, yes, the engine fires after spraying with holts, but peters out after a few revs. That sounds more & more like water in the carb
  10. i'd also make sure the carb is empty. Water in the float chamber will screw things up. You probably need to remove the top of the carb, lift out the float and mop out the fuel chamber.
  11. Bob Tucker

    Cam swap

    Been shut up too long....confusing 2 different threads... I promise I'll try harder next time....
  12. Bob Tucker

    Cam swap

    The Ford VV carb is not one of the best. Look for a Weber DGV, (manual choke) or DGAV (auto choke), or a DGAS (hens teeth) you will also need the manifold that goes with it, yours will not fit. Otherwise you can get a refurb kit for the VV here.. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit
  13. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit
  14. Bob Tucker

    Cam swap

    that should be fine. mark the TDC on the crank pulley. Set the strobe to 37 degrees and then rev the engine to 3500 (point of maximum advance) It should match, if not adjust the dizzy. Once thats done, set the strobe to 14 degrees & check tickover. Again it should match, if not speak to Aldon & see if they can help modifying your dizzy/ecu This will help.. http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/
  15. Bob Tucker

    Cam swap

    The FR 32 is a very good cam as a first start to tuning the pinto. I ran one in a standard engine, then over time I added a large inlet valve head, then twin 40s. The cam ran well in all these configurations. Although the spec does say from 2500 rpm, thats when it starts pulling really well, but It still has plenty of torque from 2000 upwards. The cam itself wont cause overheating. I'd look at checking cam timing, ignition timing, thermostat installed right way round, no air locks in the cooling system. To get the best from the cam you need a modified dizzy. The cam needs more advance at tickover, without altering the maximum advance, a standard dizzy will result in a lumpy tickover.
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