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Bob Tucker

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Everything posted by Bob Tucker

  1. Its important to set the castor equally each side, or you will have a permanent pull to one side. It may even be worth shortening the crush tubes and infilling with a spacer front or back, if possible ,to move the top wishbone backwards or forwards. These chassis were never set up very accurately, so you have to resort to adjusting out any inaccuracies. Dont worry about trying to set up the coilovers identically (see above!) More important is identical ride heights, once the car is on its wheels, or better still setting corner weights once the car is finished. HTH
  2. Are there any spacers/washers between the wishbone bushes and the rectangular chassis cross tubes?
  3. Try to identify the gauge. Most companies will sell you a replacement sender for their gauges. The standard oil pressure switch is just that, either on or off. It switches off at a set pressure, usually 7-10 psi. Try to keep the oil pressure light, its an attention grabber if it comes on while youre driving, while you may miss the gauge dropping to 0 psi! Most engines have a spare tapping where you can fit the oil pressure sender, otherwise just use a T piece.
  4. On my 2B I made a false floor from 3/4 ply and glued carpet on top.....dainty size 7s!
  5. Paul, I agree about the FR32. My engine had bigger inlet valves, ports reshaped to get rid of the inlet hump, twin 40s with 36mm chokes, and the FR32. Its probably a good cam for the Sierra's extra weight, but the Hood could easily have sacrificed a bit of torque in favour of BHP, maybe the FR33, although that states 7500 rpm.
  6. Neil, thats right. The surrey top ended up being 5 separate sections.
  7. Its not polycarbonate (solid) sheet. I used flexible translucent plastic sheet from somewhere like toolstation or screwfix. Sort of thing you can use for tent groundsheets, or vapour barrier.
  8. I got a sail maker to help with my surrey top. His top tip is to mock it up using sections made of clear plastic sheet ducktaped together so you can see fitting locations etc underneath. It made it much easier to get an accurate mockup.
  9. This guy knows what hes doing, this is a good summary of tuning a pinto. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20136-puma-race-engines-ford-pinto-tuning-guide/
  10. Sorry guys, its not my head, just a "googled" picture.
  11. I dont think so. This is what in injection head looks like.
  12. Check out Rally Design, they have a selection of flexible brake pipes.
  13. Hi Nigel, sorry you have to sell, wonky knees and a dodgy back mean moving mine on will be sooner rather than later. I think I have the timing sheets from one barkstone meet, so I'll try to find and up load them.
  14. Just some random rambling undesirable.
  15. My friendly MOT station has closed, so I had to go to the one that does both my regular cars. I explained what the car was when I booked it, but it was obvious that he doesnt test kitcars often, if at all. So I printed the chart from the DVSA site I linked in the other post, and the front page (It looks really official now!) I let him look it over, he asked a few questions about the car I told him it was based on a 1985 Sierra. He didnt ask if the engine had been changed.! And it sailed through despite being off the road for 3 years.
  16. Theres a chart on page 11... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th-edition.pdf
  17. Well done Sherlock. That took some tracking down. Hopefully you will be able to enjoy using it in the good weather at the moment.
  18. If you want to use it for trackdays, avoid one that has sliding pillar suspension. They have a narrower front track, and it is possible( probable) that the lower part of the pillar can jam into the wheel while cornering hard, effectively stopping the wheel turning and gouging the rim. With work they can be OK for road use. Search out a wishbone model, theres plenty out there.
  19. My 2B came from RHE with a small used flour sack with 2kg of assorted nuts & bolts. ! I had to buy 3 more assorted metric packs from Namrick to finish the car. https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Mixed_Packs_48.html
  20. Didnt it have an IVA or SVA test at some stage to get a Q plate?. But you have to give up the certificate to the DVLA to get it registered with a V5, so the certificate itself wont be available.
  21. Could be the choke jamming on if it uses water temp to open/close?
  22. Found a manual https://www.leschroniquesdegoliath.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Ford-Sierra-Service-And-Repair-Manual-GB.pdf page 170/340 section 15. Good luck....
  23. Hi Andy, the DGAV is a good carb, and will work, although it may be a bit big for a 1.6. so you may need to change some of the jets, but it will be a big improvement over Ford's VV carb. Unfortunately, you will also need a matching manifold. The DGAV carb will not fit on a VV manifold, the bolt spacing is different. It sounds like the ignition timing is out. it needs to fire about 8-12 degrees BTDC at tickover. The flash will be irregular at tickover, so set it to a fast tickover first, to check your strobe, then reduce it. There is a deeper mark on the crank pulley for TDC. Turn the engine anti clockwise about 1/2 to 1 inch. You should see 2, 3, or4 smaller grooves. These are the timing marks probably at 8, 10 and 12 degrees BTDC. A haynes manual describes setting timing very well. You may be able to find one on line if you dont have one.
  24. Check for air leaks anywhere in the inlet side. Gaskets can perish, but especially any rubber pipes, such as servo vacuum pipe, positive crankcase pressure vent systems, and vacuum driven ignition advance pipes between manifold and dizzy.
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