Bob Tucker

I am. About a mile away from the safe zone, with a camera between me and the end of the Ulez zone. I'm looking at several ways round it, but not for public discussion! I'll be sorning the car at the end of september anyway. Then I'm resorting to the power of prayer....that Khan doesnt get re-elected, and that one of the candidates who vowed to cancel it on day one if they get elected, actually gets in. If not, I'll probably just bring forward my plans to move down nearer 2 of my 3 kids, one in Devon one in Cornwall.

Hi Neil, sorry ,I got roped into being head chef at a family BBQ. It looks like I missed a good one.

A magnet down the hole restricts the area you are "fishing" in the sump. Assuming there is no oil in the sump, remove the drain plug and systematically move a telescopic magnet from side to side and backwards and forwards to cover much more area., but It will still leave some of the sump uncovered.

I understood that the mechanical pump provides the 1 way valve. Obviously its not working. Have a look at rebuilding it (ifthats possible) or replacing it with another one. I have used CBS for many parts in the past. For a standard engine, the road version will provide ample flow and pressure. You may also need a regulator depending what carb you are running. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/search?q=fuel+pump

Sorry no pics, but Ive just installed a new Kitspares rad. in my 2B which has a sliding pillar chassis (ie a big X in front of the rad.) and it fits very neatly with my VX redtop engine. Maybe post some pics of yours showing what you dont like about the fit?

Check that the bolts holding the belt pulleys are all tight. Get a long screwdriver with a big head. Place the pointy end against various parts of the engine, then put the handle to your ear. Start with the water pump, they do make a fair bit of noise if knackered. Avoid any and all spinning parts! This is best done in the front drive when the neighbours are all out washing their cars! You will hear the sound easily. Dont be worried about whirring, tinking and other assorted noises. They are all normal, just magnified by the screwdriver.

Hi Neil, it looks like a brilliant trip, and a very readable blog. Its set me up for our trip to the loire valley in 2 weeks. Cheers Bob

Hi John, Good to hear from you! These cars do seem addictive. Youre not the first to sell one, then look to buy another. Thats why Ive doggedly hung onto mine. ULEZ or not, I'm hanging on to it. By way of a swansong, were off to the Loire valley in it in 2 weeks, then at he beginning of August Ive booked a trackday at Brands for my second grandson (22 yrs old!). Ive told him he can push it as hard as he likes. If it blows on a track, thats way better than scrapping it. Cheers, Bob

Is that a 4 wheel bond bug? I dont recall ever seeing one of those.

Ive also registered.

Its an absoluter PI55ER isnt it? I'm in the same boat, but I'm waiting to see if its delayed before I get rid of the car. Me & my son put heart and soul into building it, and it will be devastating to have to part with it. But I'm also looking at "legal loopholes," given I only live about 1.5 miles inside the M25....

All the right numbers, but not necessarily in the right order....

All the identification letters are capitals, so as its not a D, I'd say it has to be a P so 2.0 unleaded.

https://rimmerbros.com/ItemFiles/Manuals/Kent Cams Fitting and Timing Instructions.pdf

Bars on the brain eh Keith?

Looks and sounds like a great trip, Neil. I cant wait to set off for France in early July, but I am dreading ULEZ expansion as mine doesn't comply.

I expect its just a typo, but its 2 - 3 PSI not bar. Youll blow your carbs apart at 45 PSI!.

This should help... https://nw.rhocar.org/

If there is no resistance to the pedal (does it go all the way to the floor?) theres probably still air in the rear lines or cylinders. The only way I can properly bleed my rear brakes(2B) is to jack the rear of the car as high as possible, otherwise I cant pump out the air in the pipe running from front to back. Pumping just moves the bubble backwards and forwards in the line. Leave it jacked up for an hour or two to get the bubble to the rear. I'd suggest getting a hard pedal without the engine running first, than investigate the air hiss. HTH

I had one car that was simultaneously the best and worst car. It was a Vauxhall FB VX 4/90. Very plush interior, leather seats, velour trim on all doors, stunning paint in creamy white with a red flash along both sides. It was a 1964 model I bought in 1968. It went like stink. 90 bhp back then was a lot. Twin solex carbs, ally head, larger valves than standard, 4 branch exhaust, all standard from the factory. BUT it was based on the standard Victor that had a column change. So they fitted a convoluted linkage to a floor mounted gear lever. Bushings wore out, linkages came undone, rods broke, always at the most inconvenient time leaving you stuck in gear. Including driving to Cornwall on honeymoon. The clutch was a similar design, all rods and linkages that had the same issues. My old mans welding gear never got so much use. It was so close to being a brilliant car, but it let me down so often, I only kept it for a year.

The tread has to be covered when looking directly downwards. Its not a problem if the sidewall bulges a little. Are the wheels youre using 38mm offset (standard)? you can get wheels that are 25mm offset, ie 13mm further in. Maybe you can borrow some for the IVA? Post up a picture so we can take a look.

The axle itself isnt symmetrical to allow the propshaft to be central. The 2 driveshafts are different lengths, but the chassis design should allow for this. Unfortunately, the 2B chassis design and assembly were sometimes a bit "flexible". This is an issue that a few members have spotted in the past. Try a search on the forums. Unfortunately there isnt much you can do about it.

A bad earth could easily cause all the above faults. So start with the cheap and easy fixes. Run a new earth cable from battery terminal directly to the engine block. A jumper cable will do. Also excessive ignition advance can stop the engine turning over. Retard it just a bit if the new earth doesnt solve it.

I think the nickel colooured bracket will bolt to the top of the carb and the outer cable will fit to that. You may also need a hollow bolt with 2 nuts that adjusts the length of the outer cable. Ask webcon if they have an instruction sheet they can send you.

Undo the nut on the end of the spindle, remove the bracket with the slot. Replace it with the bracket that has the quadrant. I cant see from the picture where the outer cable is clamped, but it should be clear once you have it in front of you.