Engine

Hi All When removing my engine one of the rubber feet pictured that was connected to the engine arms broke. I want to replace the pair but can seem to find the same set online. Anyone know where to source these ? Many thanks Rory

Is swapping a 1.6 pinto for a 2lt just a straight swap? Or do other items such as clutch, flywheel, bell housing, starter, alternator inlet or exhaust manifold need changing or modifying in any way.

Its time I got my 2B back on the road. The problem I have is that its suddenly started to smoke under load. The engine has done circa 3000 miles since the head came off during the build 2010ish and all I did was replace the valve oil seals as when in the donor car it smoked on the overrun. The bores looked very good and the engine ran very well but on the last run when it started to smoke it felt "not quite right". I'm think its probably rings this time but have any pinto experts got an opinion on what it might be! Its a 2.0 EFi and if the donor history was accurate it only has 88000 miles on it. The plan is to do a leak down and compression check, pull the head, check th…

Hi all, First post on here. Aquired a 2019 Zero with 2.0 Zetec.. car hardly used since IVA. less than 1k. drove car home, 5hr journey, All good.Used car for a few runs before weather turned. One of my gripes was poor gauges. Couldn’t see or read oil, water or amp gauge so swapped for Little Devil gauges and added oil temp. Since this had engine misfire/popping and reluctant to pick up. Running K6 emerald ECU with wide and lambda. Have swapped obvious, plug leads etc but no better. Checked wiring but can’t see anything obvious. Did disconnect ECU wiring to tidy up. any help appreciated Jeremy

Just got to the point I’m ready to lift the engine for some winter remedial, I purchased some Ford pinto lifting eyes but not sure where they go for easiest lift they don’t seem to fit in many places so is this something like right ?

So after much winter renovation the only thing I have left to perfect is water hoses top and bottom from the rad to engine I have looked at many different options but any recommendations on direct fit suggestions or other suggestions greatly appreciated it’s a 3a with cortina rad sat at the front

Hi All, I have a S6 Barrel back with a 1600 pinto and it looks like a Cortina\Ford carb, but it doesn't have a filter on the carb and there's very little room to fit one, between the bonnet, is it okay to run it without a filter? Thanks Phil

Hi, I'm not sure if I have a problem with my Pinto 2.0 EFi idle or not, can someone tell me what is the correct behaviour?? It used to idle faster when cold, then drop to 875rpm when warmed up - I thought this was right, as I've seen other engines do similar, but then I read elsewhere online someone saying that was a problem to fix!! I recently serviced the engine and found that it no longer idles faster when cold, it's just 875rpm all the time - So is this right or wrong?

About to have the first Winter with my car and I've recently had the thermostat changed so only have water in the system at the moment. I'm looking to prep the car for Winter and searching for the correct coolant so any advice would be appreciated. Engine is a 205 block from 1989 Sierra. I've read conflicting reports about blue v red and what is for older engines or what would damage them - bit confused at the moment! Also, any additional things to do? Car is outside and won't be used too much over the winter.

Hi All, My Pinto 2.0 EFi idled absolutely fine when cold, until recently. I used to start it and it would automatically rev at about 1200-1500 rpm until it warmed up a bit, then drop to 800rpm, nice and stable. These days, I start it and it almost stalls, then the revs pick up for a few seconds, before it almost stalls again, then it finally settles into an 800rpm idle. Once it's hot the idle is fine, so what's going on specifically when cold? And where has my initial high idle speed disappeared to?? 🤨 Thanks, Pete

So sitting at home bored out my skull, weather's terrible, so has got me thinking, ive always had pretty fast cars, subarus, 2 rs4s, 1s3, ,1 s6,, I love a v8 motor, I have seen people fitting the rover v8 engines without too much of a struggle (not that I'm saying the swap is a piece of cake) but it isn't impossible, so here I am scrolling through evilbay and I'm wondering if it's possible to fit a chevy small block in the robin hood........ I know anythings possible with unlimited funds, but you can get a small block chevy v8 with heads, headers and some ancillaries for 3.5-4k, obviously would then need ignition and fueling solutions bur size wise do you reckon it would …

Hi Guys, So I’ve started tinkering with the new purchase and something grabbed my attention pretty quick. On the side of the block at the top is a large 205 stamp. The engine is however supposed to be a 1593cc (at least that’s what it says in the German registration document). Looking around the net, it seems that the 205 is a 2.0L? can anyone confirm this? cheers in advance Craig

Hopefully this is my last question before completing my purchase of a RH 2B and it may seem a little obtuse, but honestly it is not; for a car registered in 2016 and Ford engined, what would be the difference in emission ratings (for MOT) be between a 1600cc and a 2000cc? If nobody knows but if you have a similar car, could you tell me your engine size and emission code/rating please (on V5C)? This is not about the power of the car I am buying, I am just trying to avoid any unfortunate surprises after purchase.

How are you guys wiring your ignition coils? Mine Is pre wired to the dizzy, but the live and earth used to be earth to chassis and live to ignition (push button swith) there was nothing in between on the live (which surprises me) I'm sure there should be a ballast resistor or wire, but it worked before and since stripping the wiring and re doing it, it just won't spark, it did started once but revved right up, backfired then died, should I be taking a live from the starter motor to the ignition coil rather than the start button?

Hi I have just bought a RH fitted with 2.0 pinto with fast road cam (kent cams) and Webber DGAV 32/36 car is great but there is a huge hole in the acceleration between progression and main the carb has been butchered and I know when the engine was built it had R1 carbs but these have been replaced with the Webber which I suspect is not jetted for this set up Can anyone point me at any information, as to what jets I need to try, I have found lots of links to information but the links from early 2000's dont seem to work example .. "Mark it is called the progression stage and is the most difficult bit to get right. It is the change over from the idle jets to the …

I want to replace my old radiator and pipework for something that fits a bit better. Does anyone have pics of theirs and suggestions on new radiators that fit nicely as well as do a good job. James

Overheating Issue 2.0l Pinto – your thoughts please. Last year it seemed to running too hot and consequently the electric fan came on early and stayed on for ages, never boiled over though. Most of the time I got bored waiting and disconnected then reconnected a terminal to stop it.. I haven’t yet completely ruled out a faulty control thermostat and have another one ready when I can work out the wiring (it has 2 terminals instead of 1). This year, I have only just got round to getting the car ready to drive (I know, don’ ask!) and after leaving it idling, it overheated with water coming out of the hose ends, so the radiator cap might be wrong or has failed, so I …

Hello, Got myself a Robin Hood 2B. Going to modernize the whole car and want to put a 1.6 Eco boost engine in it with a mk3 mx5 gearbox and lsd. Has anyone done something like this. Not interested in doing a Duratec etc Thanks Daniel

Hi all I've removed my engine from my car and stripped it down ready for new pistons and a rebuild. I'm struggling with removing the outer pulley on the crankshaft. I've used pulleys, heated it and soaked in oil all to no success, in doing so ive now snapped the outer of pulley off and was looking for suggestions on how to remove the rest ? Has anyone manged this before Many thanks Rory

Hi guys me again, one of the 1st things I would like to do when the car arrives is look into the carb filters (or lack of) as you can see in the pics, there's no filtration of any kind on the carbs, my question is can I get filters to slide over the ram pipes or is it better to take the ram pipes off and fit filter? Or is it better to leave as it is? I know years ago a few layers of the misses tights would have sufficed buy I want to do this one properly lol

Evening all! Question for the pinto engine gurus... been a long time since I done work like this on a motor. So In the process of replacing the water pump and flushing out the system overheated on a small run and turns out No thermostat in the engine.. took rad out and flushed that out with the hose and this came out... any ideas? So then thought I'll do a belt change and when I put the crank pulley to TDC the cam pulley wouldn't line up with the mark on the head 🤦🏻 so has my belt slipped and knocked my timing out? Any advice on how to fix these issues? I'd it just a case of new belt and move the cam pulley into correct position? Starts and runs okay only …

Having got the Exmo on the road at last, my 1800 pinto is proving to be a bit of an anticlimax. As a result, I've just bought a 205 block from ebay. I'm planning on getting as much HP as possible within a budget of approx £1k, but I have very little experience in this...can anyone advise on best setup? I am not sure whether a re-bore to 2.1 or 2.2 is worth it? I do have a 2.8 cologne v6 in the garage that could be harvested for pistons. I would like to do as much of the work myself as possible but don't have tools for re-bore/skim. I'm also not clear on the right injection, whether I use twin 45s or bike cards or std injection? If anyone ha…

Hi does anyone on know where I can get an inlet manifold as pictured below to allow me to fit twin carbs.

One issue I have is if I leave it stood (2.0 pinto mechanical fuel pump) it takes ages to start loads of cranking some coughs splutters etc .. then finally fires and is good as gold ! I know this is due to fuel running back to the tank when stood. I have considered an electric pump but all research says mechanical is more than good enough don’t waste money ! So thinking about putting a way one check valve in fuel line ? Would this cute the issue and where would be best to fit near tank ? After pump or near Carb ?

Hi All, I have recently stripped out my old radiator and pipework to change it for something that fits better. The new red is mounted and the pump and thermostat replaced. Now I need to sort the pipework! does anyone have diagrams of locations in the system for the expansion tank and if its needed. The engine is a 2L pinto.