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GCash

RHOCaR Member
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GCash last won the day on September 10 2019

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About GCash

  • Rank
    Builder

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B
  • Full name
    Graeme Cash

Profile Information

  • Location
    Blackpool

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  1. Hi Richy. I am looking to do the same thing with a NoDiz, can I have one of the distributors too? Thanks
  2. I'll have them please
  3. It looks really good. I am just making one at the moment for my 2B and I think I will copy your idea of using the aluminium section at the rear. I have had to put multiple straps on the back to keep the tension. How do you manage to attach the press studs to the roof? I use the tool supplied which you hit with a hammer but sometimes when I remove the roof the popper just rips off and stays attached to the car body. If I look inside the popper the middle doesn't have that nice rolled look it looks like when Bugs Bunny puts a carrot in Elmer Fudd's shotgun.
  4. Hello I believe the DTML is a straight replacement of the DFTH and gets rid of the problematic stepper motor. I guess it should have the same layout as the one in the Haynes manual in the previous post.
  5. Hello. I had a problem with mine being too close to the manifold and it overheated on the way to the IVA test! I got rid of mine altogether and just mounted the master cylinder to the firewall and replaced the brake rod with one from tiger racing. I didn't have to make a new mounting plate just drill some new holes. The only other thing I had to do was remake one of the brake pipes as it was now too short. Graeme
  6. Hello It might be a long shot but I am after a manifold for my Robin Hood which has a 2.0l Pinto. At the moment I have an original Sierra manifold but I would prefer one of the Robin Hood Engineering ones. Has anyone got one that they don't want anymore? Thanks Graeme
  7. Hello I am thinking about replacing the 30/34 DFTH on my 2ltr Pinto with a 32/36 dgv or dgav. I don't think my current manifold will fit so I got another from ebay. Can anybody tell me what this is on the bottom? Is it for a temperature sensor? My other thought is to go to bike carbs. Thanks Graeme
  8. GCash

    Parts clearout

    Hello, I will take the doors if you let me know your details please.
  9. GCash

    Parts clearout

    Can you let me know the price of the doors and send me a picture when you get chance please?
  10. GCash

    Parts clearout

    Hello, what are the doors from? I'm after a set for my 2B. Graeme
  11. Well I finally passed the IVA and my documents have been sent to the DVLA! To summarise what I did in case anyone is interested... - I did away with the servo and just ran the standard Sierra master cylinder and brake pads. I beefed up heat shield to be safe. - After some inspection the valve stem seals had fallen to pieces and I replaced them with the head in place using the popular rope technique. - I replaced the handbrake cable and put another adjuster on so I could balance both sides. - I just aligned the headlights on the garage door using masking tape As for getting the car there and back I employed the service of a local transport company called RS Motor Co. Now just to wait patiently for my log book!
  12. Hello, I thought I would let everyone know how I have got on with putting my Robin Hood through the IVA and to ask a few questions... My Robin Hood 2B was given to me by my kind friend part finished, I believe it was originally bought in 2002. It is based around a 1989 Sierra with a 2.0l Pinto with a 30/34 DFTH Weber carb. I have stripped it down and finished it over the last eighteen months and I am quite pleased with the result (or at least I was). Attempt one happened at the beginning of May and didn't go well at all. Prior to the test I had a garage down the road check it out and everything seemed ok apart from a bouncing fuel gauge. I didn't get the car back in time to sort the fuel gauge, so I just had to go for it. On the day of the test I filled it up at the petrol station in preparation for the fifty-mile journey from Blackpool to Chatterton. Fuel ended up leaking everywhere from the fuel sender and the car started running rough. Before I got too far from home, I just took it round the block where I broke down a few times as well as got pulled over by the police. I had all the relevant paper work so being pulled over wasn't an issue and I managed to limp the car home. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it to the test so £450 down the drain. Before my next attempt I serviced the carb, replaced the fuel lines, filter and fuel sender, fitted new spark plugs, leads and coil (from Accuspark) as well as checking the ignition timing and mixture. The timing was out, and I set it to about six degrees with the vacuum lines blocked as per the manual. There was also a leak on the line from the manifold to the servo which I fixed. Yesterday I set off nice and early for attempt two. Everything went well for the first twenty-five miles until I could feel the car needing more and more power to maintain speed. I pulled over and found that the brakes had come on and while I at the side of the road they came on completely. After looking around it I suspected that the servo was at fault either too hot, getting to much vacuum or faulty. I managed to get to the test centre (with frequent stops to keep checking) and on the way there the car started to run quite rough. It struggled to pull away and didn't like running at slow speed although it idles fine. Despite being late they completed the test and found the following... Metered Emissions - the HC reading was 4260 when the max is 1200. The car struggled to run at the required 2,000 rpm it just kept hunting between 1,000 and 3,000. The reading from the garage prior to attempt one was fine, well below the limit. I suspect I have messed up the mixture after the carb rebuild. Brake pipe or hose must not be exposed to excessive heat. The car has the original sierra manifold and the exhaust has a heat wrap around it. The servo is close to the engine and heat shield I made is obviously not up to the job (see picture, although the heat shield has been removed). I am thinking about removing the servo all together as described in other posts and then make a bigger heat shield. Brake warning light - The light on the dash functions with both the handbrake and the low brake fluid level switch. However, the low fluid switch doesn't seem to work. Am I correct in thinking that if I fix the low brake fluid switch and can prove it works by unscrewing the top that will pass? I can test the light from the driver’s seat using the handbrake or do I need a separate switch? A couple of sharp edges right under the dash that I missed. I have already put edging on them. The hand brake isn't working on the near side wheel. I will have to investigate. Brake lights are on all the time. I knocked the brake switch off while checking my brakes when stuck at the side of the road and have now fixed. Side repeaters are mounted on the body of the car and do not give the five degrees of visibility from the rear. I need to move them to the cycle wings. Headlight aim was out, I must have knocked them as they had been aligned by the garage. Fog lights come on with the side lights. I going to change the switch feed using diodes as described by other posts. Pinch nut on the from suspension was loose. The pinch bolt was tight, and I had put a safety bolt through to dummy strut but completely missed this. Stupid boy! Maybe unsurprisingly because of the brake issue they wouldn't let me drive it home and I had to shell out to be recovered to Blackpool . Yesterday was a very frustrating day to say the least! I have already fixed some of the issues and apart from the engine and the brakes my car is fine, ha! When I got home, I checked the spark plugs and they are black, so I guess it is running rich? I have a colourtune kit but I was struggling to use it, I will have to have another go. My dilemma now is how best to take it for the retest, do I risk driving it again? And, how am I best getting the engine tested/tuned without having the ability to drive it? Maybe I need to find someone with a trailer for the retest and a rolling road session? Graeme
  13. I have a 30/34 DFTH. I have just stripped it down and serviced it using a kit from Fast Road Cars. I had a problem with the fuel sender I have just replaced this and I am now replacing the fuel hoses and filter. The engine ran fine while stationary but as soon as you put much load on, it would cough splutter and die followed by refusing to idle. My next step was to move onto the electrics and start checking them over.
  14. Every day is a school day, thank you very much for your responses! I had a disastrous attempt at getting to my IVA including a poor running engine. I am just looking over everything and was just thinking ahead about what I might need to do.
  15. Hello I am looking for some advice please. I have a Robin Hood that is based on a 1988 Ford Sierra. It is running a 2.0l OHC Pinto with an ESC II module. I was thinking about replacing the standard ignition system with electronic ignition. I was looking at Accuspark but I am a bit unclear as to what to go for. The current system seems to have a ballast coil that takes it feed from the ESC module. The Bosch distributor hasn't got a vacuum advance and takes it feeds from the coil and ESC module which has got a vacuum feed from the manifold. Is it better to replace the current ballast coil with a standard coil and give it a feed directly from the ignition rather than the ESC? By replacing the points with either a conversion kit or electronic distributor how will it get a feed for the advance if the signal is no longer coming from the ESC? I have contacted Accuspark and they just advised their distributors are stand alone and can use either a ballast or standard coil. Graeme
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