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GCash

RHOCaR Member
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About GCash

  • Rank
    Builder

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B
  • Full name
    Graeme Cash

Profile Information

  • Location
    Blackpool

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  1. Hello, I thought I would let everyone know how I have got on with putting my Robin Hood through the IVA and to ask a few questions... My Robin Hood 2B was given to me by my kind friend part finished, I believe it was originally bought in 2002. It is based around a 1989 Sierra with a 2.0l Pinto with a 30/34 DFTH Weber carb. I have stripped it down and finished it over the last eighteen months and I am quite pleased with the result (or at least I was). Attempt one happened at the beginning of May and didn't go well at all. Prior to the test I had a garage down the road check it out and everything seemed ok apart from a bouncing fuel gauge. I didn't get the car back in time to sort the fuel gauge, so I just had to go for it. On the day of the test I filled it up at the petrol station in preparation for the fifty-mile journey from Blackpool to Chatterton. Fuel ended up leaking everywhere from the fuel sender and the car started running rough. Before I got too far from home, I just took it round the block where I broke down a few times as well as got pulled over by the police. I had all the relevant paper work so being pulled over wasn't an issue and I managed to limp the car home. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it to the test so £450 down the drain. Before my next attempt I serviced the carb, replaced the fuel lines, filter and fuel sender, fitted new spark plugs, leads and coil (from Accuspark) as well as checking the ignition timing and mixture. The timing was out, and I set it to about six degrees with the vacuum lines blocked as per the manual. There was also a leak on the line from the manifold to the servo which I fixed. Yesterday I set off nice and early for attempt two. Everything went well for the first twenty-five miles until I could feel the car needing more and more power to maintain speed. I pulled over and found that the brakes had come on and while I at the side of the road they came on completely. After looking around it I suspected that the servo was at fault either too hot, getting to much vacuum or faulty. I managed to get to the test centre (with frequent stops to keep checking) and on the way there the car started to run quite rough. It struggled to pull away and didn't like running at slow speed although it idles fine. Despite being late they completed the test and found the following... Metered Emissions - the HC reading was 4260 when the max is 1200. The car struggled to run at the required 2,000 rpm it just kept hunting between 1,000 and 3,000. The reading from the garage prior to attempt one was fine, well below the limit. I suspect I have messed up the mixture after the carb rebuild. Brake pipe or hose must not be exposed to excessive heat. The car has the original sierra manifold and the exhaust has a heat wrap around it. The servo is close to the engine and heat shield I made is obviously not up to the job (see picture, although the heat shield has been removed). I am thinking about removing the servo all together as described in other posts and then make a bigger heat shield. Brake warning light - The light on the dash functions with both the handbrake and the low brake fluid level switch. However, the low fluid switch doesn't seem to work. Am I correct in thinking that if I fix the low brake fluid switch and can prove it works by unscrewing the top that will pass? I can test the light from the driver’s seat using the handbrake or do I need a separate switch? A couple of sharp edges right under the dash that I missed. I have already put edging on them. The hand brake isn't working on the near side wheel. I will have to investigate. Brake lights are on all the time. I knocked the brake switch off while checking my brakes when stuck at the side of the road and have now fixed. Side repeaters are mounted on the body of the car and do not give the five degrees of visibility from the rear. I need to move them to the cycle wings. Headlight aim was out, I must have knocked them as they had been aligned by the garage. Fog lights come on with the side lights. I going to change the switch feed using diodes as described by other posts. Pinch nut on the from suspension was loose. The pinch bolt was tight, and I had put a safety bolt through to dummy strut but completely missed this. Stupid boy! Maybe unsurprisingly because of the brake issue they wouldn't let me drive it home and I had to shell out to be recovered to Blackpool . Yesterday was a very frustrating day to say the least! I have already fixed some of the issues and apart from the engine and the brakes my car is fine, ha! When I got home, I checked the spark plugs and they are black, so I guess it is running rich? I have a colourtune kit but I was struggling to use it, I will have to have another go. My dilemma now is how best to take it for the retest, do I risk driving it again? And, how am I best getting the engine tested/tuned without having the ability to drive it? Maybe I need to find someone with a trailer for the retest and a rolling road session? Graeme
  2. I have a 30/34 DFTH. I have just stripped it down and serviced it using a kit from Fast Road Cars. I had a problem with the fuel sender I have just replaced this and I am now replacing the fuel hoses and filter. The engine ran fine while stationary but as soon as you put much load on, it would cough splutter and die followed by refusing to idle. My next step was to move onto the electrics and start checking them over.
  3. Every day is a school day, thank you very much for your responses! I had a disastrous attempt at getting to my IVA including a poor running engine. I am just looking over everything and was just thinking ahead about what I might need to do.
  4. Hello I am looking for some advice please. I have a Robin Hood that is based on a 1988 Ford Sierra. It is running a 2.0l OHC Pinto with an ESC II module. I was thinking about replacing the standard ignition system with electronic ignition. I was looking at Accuspark but I am a bit unclear as to what to go for. The current system seems to have a ballast coil that takes it feed from the ESC module. The Bosch distributor hasn't got a vacuum advance and takes it feeds from the coil and ESC module which has got a vacuum feed from the manifold. Is it better to replace the current ballast coil with a standard coil and give it a feed directly from the ignition rather than the ESC? By replacing the points with either a conversion kit or electronic distributor how will it get a feed for the advance if the signal is no longer coming from the ESC? I have contacted Accuspark and they just advised their distributors are stand alone and can use either a ballast or standard coil. Graeme
  5. GCash

    Pinto Idle

    Magic thank you. I have blocked it off and everything is OK now. The PCV connects to manifold via the black hose off of the T piece.
  6. GCash

    Pinto Idle

    Hello I have just about finished my Robin Hood but there seems to be a problem with the idle. After a couple of minutes it starts going lumpy and cuts out. It keeps cutting out if I don't hold the throttle open slightly. It is a 2.0l Pinto with a Weber 30/34 DFTH. I noticed there is a pipe coming from the carb that looks like a breather (black and red). The problem stopped when I sealed the end of this pipe. This may be a stupid question but, does anyone know what it is for? Is it originally from the air cleaner? Thanks Graeme
  7. Hello This may be a long shot but does anyone know what paint matches the red grp parts used on the Robin Hood? I'm not sure what to do other than going to somewhere like Halfords with one of the wings and comparing the colours. I am painting the rear wings and while it doesn't have to be exact something close would be nice. Thanks Graeme
  8. GCash

    Windscreen Marking

    Thanks for the advise!
  9. GCash

    Windscreen Marking

    Hello I am coming to the end of the build of my Robin Hood 2B and I am just in the process of fitting the windscreen. I have read numerous threads and the IVA manual and just want to confirm a couple of things. These are the markings on my windscreen... Am I correct in thinking that this won't get through the IVA because of the missing Roman numerals above the E? If I remove the windscreen, wipers, heater and washers and get it through the IVA would it be a bad idea to fit it anyway because it would be too dangerous? Thanks Graeme
  10. GCash

    Hazard Lights

    Magic, thank you all for your replies
  11. GCash

    Hazard Lights

    Hello I am just in the process of completing a Robin Hood 2B that was given to me in a part finished state. I am progressing well and have just finished sorting the electrics. However, I have noticed that when I press the hazard switch the indicator warning lights don't flash. The indicator lights themselves work and the hazard switch lights up, I just don't know if the dashboard warning lights should flash. The indicator lights and the warning lights work correctly when using the indicator column switch. It is based on a 88 Ford Sierra 2.0L OHC, can anybody help please? Thanks Graeme
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