Engine

Right this is really confusing me did the timing belt on my tiger Avon about 6 months ago ran the car a few times no problem what is confusing me is the slack on the timing belt. When I turn the engine over by hand there is a difference in the slack between to cam gears. When it feels like a compression stroke the belt is nice and tight as soon as it gets past that the slack between the cam gears is about 15mm just doesn't look right?

I've received this message from Wilksy - is there anybody out there who can help him with rebuilding one of these carbs ? Thanks, Steve Wilksy Foz DFTH Carb - Help required. Idiots mistake - I have stripped down a 30/34 DFTH ex 1987 Sierra 2.0 carb to give it a good and thoroughly needed clean as well as modify it to run on basic engine electrics and manual choke - yes I know not the best solution but necessary funds wise to get this twice frustrated project mobile for an IVA. Idiot that I am I didn't make note or take pictures when I stripped this gunk laden pie…

Hi Can anyone help me with the ID of this camshaft, it has NEWMAN CAMSHAFTS cast into the body of camshaft. Regards Harry

Hi Can anyone help me with the ID of this camshaft, it has NEWMAN CAMSHAFTS cast into the body of camshaft. Regards Harry

Hi All, I am after some advice mostly second doubting myself as it’s been some years since I have done a cam belt. I have replaced one today on my blacktop, cam tool fitted fine and crank locked etc no issues. When I was spinning it over after double checking everything locked in tool wise I seen that the tensioner kept moving and went slack on the belt and tight again. Belt was tensioned up fine then moved the adjustment when turning it over. The tensioner has in and out movement towards the head and tensioner moves tension. i can’t remember seeing this before like I said been 10 years since I have done a belt. have I missed something? …

Any advice on changing head gasket on a 2L Zetec black top engine. Still looking for the right Haynes manual.

Hi Guys, ( or Gals !! ) Anyone know which Haynes workshop manual is suitable for a 2L black top Zetec engine. Thanks !!

Hi All, The sump on my 2.0 pinto has not had the conversion and therefore sits no more than 3 inches from the ground. It seems to have been battered by the previous owner and looks like it could do with being replaced (picture attached). It’s not leaking necessarily but I have noticed a drop of oil collecting on the underside(only when up to temperature), but it’s not dripping per se. a few questions: 1) is replacing the sump an engine out job? Or can it be done without taking it out 2) if I am to replace it, do I just buy one in good condition on eBay for example, or is anyone aware of one I can get that is pre converted?

Hello, I’m experiencing a knocking noise in my Tiger, which seems to be originating from cylinder 3. I’ve attached a couple of videos that may help in diagnosing the issue. To provide some context, I recently had the engine tuned on a rolling road (~50 miles ago) and everything was running smoothly with no issues. Since the tune, I haven’t overrevved or raced the engine; I’m using a solid-state rev limiter set at 5400 RPM for safety. Prior to noticing the knock, I did have an issue with electromagnetic interference (EMI) affecting some sensors, so I replaced the spark plugs from NGK AP7FS (which was used during the tune) to NGK APR6FS. This resolved the E…

Hi all, I have been struggling like crazy to get ZX6R bike carbs set up on my pinto. They start and idle fine but are running lean and don't really pick up revs on hard acceleration. I've trued upping the jets to 1.8, but it spat fuel back out of the carb, went down to 1.7 which is better, but still v lean and not accelerating. I've read that blocking air correctors is worth trying in order to richen, but I have no idea where the air corrector is. I've taken the air filter off and taken a pic of the jets I can see. Is this the main jet on the left and air corrector on the right? Or do I need to take the bottom of the carb off to access main jet and a…

Hello all I have a 2ltr zetec as supplied in the kit from 12 years ago and I have removed the plugs for replacement and found them to be of two different types . Now I did not note which cylinders they came from so need to know if the replacements need to be 2 different types and if so what they need to be as the plugs are motocraft and which type goes in which cylinder Hope you can help Chris D

Hi All Doing a pre check over for a run out tomorrow and it appears my 2.0 blacktop has sprung a leak from the thermostat. I have stripped it all down to have a look and it appears that the paper gaskets have gave way albeit a previous sealant repair too. I have looked online and can’t seem to find the gaskets on their own, does anyone know where you can get these from, preferably not paper ones. Reading online and looking at the stat it’s a qth102 that has been fitted so these from Burton come with the gaskets?

Hi there, new to the kit car scene and I’m looking to get some help locating water pipes for the pinto engine. not sure if I have the proper radiator that’s needed so any help would be appreciated. here is what it looks like

So I’m going to look at / buy a 2008 Robin Hood with a 2.0 pinto engine, it’s all standard and no mods yet… I’ve never owned a kit car before, I do work in the trade along with my dad who has recently built an SDR V-Storm! what are some initial mods / upgrades I can do / look into to get some more BHP out of these engines? also are there any other mods to consider looking into that aren’t engine related? I know nothing about these cars so any tips / advice is much appreciated! looking forward to driving and working on one!

Hi Guys, Please bare with me, I am new to the kit car world and recently purchased a GBS zero 2.0 16v black top. I am looking to give it a good service so I know what has been done on it. I have done some searching online and can’t really find anything firm. Does anyone happen to know any of the part numbers for the below? Oil Filter Spark Plugs Gearbox oil Mt75 box diff oil Anyone happen to also know anywhere cheaper than GBS for the clutch and accelerator cable at all? anything else you would look at doing brakes etc are all fine suspension fine just passed an Mot.

My 2.0L RH2B has no expansion tank - back in the day I ran Triumph Cars which all had them as I recall. It was overheating, which I believe, fingers crossed, that I have now cured. It needs more testing, but I believe was a combination of the gauge reading high anyway, the electric fan thermo switch not functioning properly and some idiot taking out the engine thermostat and fitting the housing back, using a gasket that blocked about a third of the hole. The car was IVA's in 2016 (not by me) and it has never had an expansion tank, mind you the guy I bought it from said it had no overheating problems. So guys, does your car have an expansion tank or do you run i…

I have the superspec with a Rover T16 non-turbo. I wondered if anyone had attempted to retrofit a turbo onto one of these? I presume it would require at least a Turbo, Manifold, Intercooler and oil pipes. I already have an uprated head gasket and air intake.

Hello I have a Marcos Martina with a 2 litre pinto. I have rebuilt the 32/36 and am about to put it back. It has two vacuum pipes coming out of the underneath of the carb. I have traced them and they go to the PCV valve. I would like to replace the valve but I cannot find one with two vacuum points like mine. Is this a normal set up, please? What is the best solution? Many thanks John

I'm hoping the wise folks of this forum will be able to help me once again. I have a new, intermittent problem in the form of stuttering/spluttering and a lack of power. It first happened after the car had been sat in the sun for a morning, and I assumed an issue with fuel vapourisation/delivery, as happened occasionally with my mx5 during auto tests on hot days. I put it away and hoped the problem would disappear. It did. The next driver was uneventful. Today it wasn't so hot, and after about 20 mins of gentle driving the engine started to struggle and misfire again. It happens on a light throttle, and/or at low revs. When it starts I lose power a…

Hi everyone, used to be a member but picking up a 2b this week, and back into kit cars again. The car I’ll probably be making a deal on is absolutely lovely ,probably a show car, the only problem I can find twin webers needs referb and then tuning, but on the other hand would bike carbs be better. I don’t mind the cost because the car is superb.cheers Dave

Just started happening, car will run for a few minutes or even up to 10 or 15 then cuts out and then will not start. When it cuts out the engine just stops, no missing, or running like ad dog with 3 legs, just smoothly stops?. I wondered if it was to do with the fuel vapour separator, but beginning to think its not that from what I have read. Any ideas guy would be greatly appreciated. I thought I have sorted this 3 times and ended up pushing it home each time (I'm 74 and getting my ear bent from my wife who wants it gone), I currently can only thrust it to go round the block.

I have a Robin Hood S7 ( 2 lt Pinto from a Sierra) which starts then cuts out, will always fire on easy start. I think it's the fuel vapour separator ,any suggestions where I can source one.

Hi folks. I have an Exmo Seven with the usual 2 ltr Pinto engine. The car came with 48 IDF carbs and - as I had to find out - a racing cam shaft with which no weber carb would run decently. So I downgraded both the cam shaft and the carb to a more standard Weber DGV 32/36 (in DE I need to get any modification from standard approved by German MoT and the 48 IDFs were not in my papers). Since finding somone in Germany that still knows how to tune a carb is really hard, I went at it myself. After 6 months of trial & error using my Lambda dial, I have it reasonably in tune. The mixture now stays within AFR 13 - 15 at 95% of the time, at least above 2,500 rpm. I…

Hiya, I ran my rebuilt Pinto for the first time recently and, now that I have an oil pressure gauge, I just wanted to check if the readings sounded healthy... Bear in mind that the engine has been quite thoroughly refurbed, with new bearings, seals and gaskets everywhere. New pistons, rings and camshaft. The crank wasn't reground, but I measured it and it was within the tolerance for barely worn condition and no ovality to speak of. I also fitted a Burton high pressure/flow pump, as I'd heard the stories about Pinto cam spray bars being a bit crap, so thought it might help to deliver a bit extra. I also read recently that those pumps can suck the sump dry if …

Hello, the front right corner of my oil sump is leaking but only when the car is warm and up to temp. i went under and a bolt seems to be missing but it goes through the block on the other end?! Is this supposed to be like this?