Engine
Won't fire, won't even turn? Not running smooth? Cutting out? Ask here!
6,150 topics in this forum
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Hello again, I want to turn to you who know about these things for advice. I have acquired a Sierra based S7 with rear diff and Sierra steering but that’s it. I want to get an engine in to work around but I’m really stumped as to what to put in it. It will be both a track and a road car and obviously not my daily driver so I don’t mind if it is not the most comfortable to drive but I’d like it to be quick. At first I was going to go down the bike engine route, I like the revs and gearbox. Then I had an offer of a V6 Essex but that fell through, now I’m considering a Zetec Blacktop. The weight of the engine affecting steering is a concern. I think …
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- 5 replies
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Hi all, help! so I’ve got a 2b running a 2.0 Pinto (205) Efi engine. it did seem to run ok, but boiled a lot. So I have replaced the rad with a nice shiny cooler one. problem is, since then it refuses to run properly. took it for a brief run on Monday, let idle up to temp before I started. It ran fine for a couple of minutes, then appeared to have a loss of power in 4th and 5th. Eventually ground to a halt on me engine would turn on the starter, it’d catch, but then sound like it wasn’t getting fuel. Put some more petrol (in case it was the gauge and I was out) but it just wouldn’t run. eventually sound the distributor cap appeared lose …
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- 7 replies
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Hello everyone. I just wanted to run past you all an issue I’m having with starting my Robin Hood Mark 2 running a 2.0l Pinto engine from an ‘83 Sierra. Basically, since I’ve owned the car (coming up on 2 years now), it has often been sluggish to start. I think that on the whole, it prefers starting when the engine is warm, which I would expect, but this isn’t necessarily always the case - it’s a bit random. When it’s driving, I notice that if you put your foot down, there’s a little cough before it then decides to open up relatively cleanly through the Rev range, so I’m thinking distribution or carb balance need checking. It’s running a Weber 32/36 (presumabl…
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- 7 replies
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Good morning hope your all well I'm after recommendation for the best set up for a swirl pot and pump set up any help greatly appreciated thanks in advance for your help John
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I've just bought an engine to replace my lackluster 185 pinto and trying to establish if the head is an injection type. I've heard that the inlet ports are egg shaped on injection, but I'm not sure if mine is or not...I'm hoping it is, but not sure if I'm trying to convince myself that they are oval shaped or not? Can anyone help identify this? Are these oval or am I going cross-eyed?
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Hi can anyone give me some tips on how to remove pinto engine and gearbox!
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Hi is anyone selling a exhaust and manifold stainless for my 2b Robin Hood thanks for the help.
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- 687 views
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As the title says not started my hood for 3 years and now want to get it running again so I can sell it. I intend draining the fuel tank and putting in fresh petrol, do I need to strip down the 2 webers DCOE or any other suggestions before I try turning it over. It's a 2ltr silver top Any help or advice greatly received or if you are in the Medway area please call in.
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- 7 replies
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- 1 follower
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Hi all, I currently have a 185 block pinto with a fast road cam (not sure on exact cam make or model), I am also reconditioning a 205 block pinto, which will also have an uprated cam. In order to perfect the cam timing, I thought I'd get a DTI guage and experiment on the 185 block. It's currently installed I'm the Exmo so access isn't great, but doable. So I started with reading up on the several threads on here and other forums, found that the overlap method of working out the correct inlet cam lift was best. I am now a bit confused, because in it's current setup at TDC, both inlet & exhaust valves are closed...is this right? The car starts and r…
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Hi I'm new to the forum and my robinhood I'm having trouble with my robinhood 2ltr efi dohc I thought the battery was weak as it hasn't been used much in the last year and it was struggling to start without the booster so replaced it had the starter motor reconditioned and still my engine don't want to starter I'm getting just clicking or nothing at all any ideas Thanks John
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Hi guys , We are a new kitcar owner and we’ve just bought a kitcar with a pinto engine, I would like to have it checked and maybe have it tuned. 1600 pinto with uprated cam and ZX6R Carbs. Don’t seem to have any issues and drives great 😊 however for peace of mind I’d like it checked and maybe setup if needed. We live in Long Eaton so Derby/Nottingham area would be good, however we are open to good recommendations a bit further a field. cheers Rachael & Iain
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- 675 views
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Hi guys can anyone help me with what I need to get a speedo working on my kit car. I have no idea what to do and what I need any help would be great.
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Does anyone have the knowledge to help me please? I am in the process of buying a 2B, the hold up at the moment is that I (and the owner) believe it is a 2.0l, but it is registered as a 1600 – I understand the hassle of changing this later. The engine block number is 85HM6015BB and it is a 205 block. I believe that the HM means 1987 and the 6015 is universal. AA would mean 1300cc and BA 1600cc, but I have yet to find anything that confirms BB to be 2000cc or that 205 was only used for 2000cc. If I can find something that is relatively official then I will buy it, also the servicing garage will annotate the paperwork to that effect and that will enable me to correct the V5…
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- 10 replies
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- 1 follower
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I would like to get my 2B done, mostly for interest really, although I suspect she may be running a little rich. Any recommendations in Lincolnshire or nearby?
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- 2 followers
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Hi, Anyone with the Rover engined SuperSpec knows how low the oil sump sits. Yesterday, changed mine to the alloy sump from the Rover 420, also had to fit the pick up pipe from the 420 as well, straightforward swap. The sump now is a lot shallower, but still has the same oil capacity (4.5 litres). Note for file though, alloy sump is up to 7mm thick in places, don't forget that you'll need new sump bolts to suit the sump! Oh, and make sure you get the correct size (M6 20mm at least) - Hopefully the pics show the difference. Top pic is new sump, bottom pic is old sump (which i'll get shortened just in case). Big thanks to Phil f…
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- 8 replies
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- 1 follower
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So I have just had the most difficult of journeys with fitting a new set of bike carbs and manifold from DanST to my home build 2.1 Pinto, I will try and keep it short… I bought a new set because I was convinced my old spaced parallel set did not work properly so invested in a set of DanST carbs with manifold vac takeoffs, Pipercross air filter back plate and long trumpets. my engine was run up on Penguin motors engine dyno (Graham Bahr, he of Turbosports and Classic Ford mag game) with his distributor and 45DCOE’s to set a bench mark we achieved 166bhp on 36mm chokes and 175 on 38mm chokes (please see his YouTube videos, my engine is the blue one with alloy roc…
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I have been having a lot a trouble with over heating. it has a new coolant pump and the pipe arrangement has a couple of extra bleeds to release the air pockets. with the fan on all time the engine temp will rise to 100 within 5 miles of driving. you can see the temp vary as the thermostat opens and the the temp drops 4 or 5 degrees but if you if you accelerate hard the temp will go to 108 and the slowly drop back down to about 103 and stay there. I have put some remote temp probes on the rad flow and return and it appears that the rad is just not able to cool the water. obviously the non turbo guys don't seem to have an issue with the rad size and its slope. i…
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Hello all. 1.6 sierra pinto, PC project, venturi carb. Engine runs , but barely sustains tick over unless given a bit of throttle, and even then.... Very little torque/power. HAve had a timing light on the pulley, but get some very odd readings off that - the grades are rarely orientated even close to the marker on flash. I think the mix is okay (but not even certain about that), and I have never changed/moved the timing/dizzy (although I couldn't guarantee that the previous owner didn't mess/move it) Any tips on where to start?
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Good afternoon all, I have an 1800 pinto with a Weber 32/36 carb which I cannot seem to get running right. The engine starts, runs & idles fine, but under acceleration the engine stalls, particularly if I open the throttle quickly. The engine is also very low on power and doesn't seem to pull under load. I have checked and changed the obvious; rotor arm, HT leads & dizi cap. My thinking is that the carb is for a 2litre and I am using it on an 1800. I have changed the primary & secondary main jets from 135/140 to 120/125 - although I haven't driven the car since, I have run in the garage and it hasn't stopped the engine stalling under …
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Hi all I’m sure this has been discussed many times before but I can’t really find information just wondering does anybody know the firing order of a Ford Pinto 1.6 engine I’m assuming cylinder one is the one nearest the timing belt unfortunately I don’t know from the distributor as I look at it on the cap which lead goes to which cylinder any help or links would be greatly appreciated thank you very much
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Afternoon all unfortunately the kit failed it’s mot last week one of which was emissions the co failed at I think around 4.7 when it has to be under 3.5 its been stood over a year for various reasons and it’s running r1 carbs. When it was set up by Bogg brothers I think it was 2.8 or something. I’ve cleaned the carbs and put new plugs in and slightly turned the air fuel mixture screws for idle. Sadly as it has no mot i can’t drive it to get them set up and the mot garage won’t touch the carbs. I’m back in the morning for a retest and just wondered as it’s unburnt fuel causing the issue would increasing the idle speed help at all along with me already loweri…
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I purchased a Robin Hood S7 a couple of years ago as a running project and have been chasing engine gremlins pretty much from day one. The engine is a 1.6l Pinto from a 1983 Sierra - not massively potent but plenty fast enough from behind the wheel! Initially there were issues with the dirty fuel affecting fuelling, so I rebuilt the fuel system with an electric pump, fitted a new 32/36DGAV carb and had it setup by a good friend of mine. Unfortunately the issues remained and persisted even when I replaced coil, rotor arm, distributor cap, leads and plugs - the car would start and run, accelerate OK but would always 'stutter' and misfire in the mid-range when trying to h…
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Hi Whilst driving the other day my car started misfiring and cut out I was then unable to get it start for some time and when It did there was big smoke plume it ran for little n cut out again. Any ideas what may cause this ? Many thanks rory
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hi all just in middle of making inlet manifold for bike carbs for my 2l pinto do i need a pipe in inlet manifold for vacuum pipe from distributer
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