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About Daled

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B 2003
  • Full name
    Dale Dunkerley

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  • Location
    South west london

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512 profile views
  1. Hi, as it's the beginning of the "off season" I decided to get some done to work done to my old pinto engine so I can focus on some of the other stuff. The cam bearing was quite noisy and the engine was feeling very tired... so I fitted the following: Kent gts1 cam kit Dual Weber 45 DCOE (yes I know it should have been bike carbs) New water hoses Skimmed the head and case. New gaskets etc. Accuspark ignition Electronic fuel pump The result so far is much better idle and it revs very well. I am going to run it in over the next couple of months and then have it dynoed but I thought I would try and start a thread show casing what work everyone gets up to while it's a little colder
  2. I am starting to get a list of things to do for when the weather gets cooler and driving my 2B is not as enjoyable (as I am sure that most of us are) and would like to know whether anyone has a recommendations on the reconditioning a pair of weber 45 DCOE carbs ? I am sure it will need fitting and tuning too but that might will be at the end of the year.
  3. thanks for the information, i will see if i can find any serial numbers and do some measurements
  4. Hi has anyone seen these anywhere before ? as looking to replace the bushes and rose joints but have not seen the setup on any forums or anything, so I dont know where to get spares for it. hoping someone has seen them before.
  5. Its Black as well, cut offs would work very well. Can you post a square about 15 cm x 15 cm ?
  6. anyone know of a repair kit that can be used on the wet weather hood (leather /vinyl type) as i recently took mine out and it has a hole about the size of 5 pence and I can only find the material type of kits online.
  7. I posted it on eBay, and it sold within minutes.... still yet to get the money and have it picked up. But hopefully it’s gone to good home.
  8. some more pics https://imgur.com/a/Dbn4i8T
  9. HI guys, Attached is the additional photos I said I would post. the engine was pulled apart and found that the crank and conrods had an angle grinder taken to it, to the point the metal was very thin. the head is ok and the block is an older version and not a 205. there was 45 dcoe webers attached which I would like to keep as if I buy another car. The cam is also for an injected model. I happy to send the engine as its not with the car at the moment, and happy to negotiate. other specs are: 1. Car was built on a doner of a ford Sierra and uses the rear suspension and axle 2. 3.92 rear differential 3. Modified suspension 4. 205/50 tyres on 7” inch rims 5. 5 speed box Please PM me with any questions.
  10. Hi, I am looking to sell on my Robin Hood series 3 (stainless steel chassis) as it has become a project that I cannot complete. I have done some work to her since buying it last year and still have a load of new parts that can be used. The engine has been removed as it was due a rebuild but it wasnt economical to do so. The car was running and was on the road back in 2016 and has a q plate but since then has not been on the road (SORN). I have the complete build folder full of receipts, manuals and specs of when it was on the road. Attached is a picture of it what it looked like when I bought it and I will post more pictures of what it looks like now, but it is not much different as the work I have done was under the bonnet. The car is complete and the only thing that is missing is an engine, and it could be ready for an MOT. I am asking for £900 for it, which includes the car and : Complete rear axle and subframe ready to be fitted. New stays and front wings Box of spares such as oil filters, spark plugs etc Spare steering wheel Dale
  11. Hi is the car still for sale ? if so can you PM me with some pics and your location so that I might come and have a look ?
  12. HI Paul, Apologies for being so quiet, it was very useful and it helped me decide what to do with the car as there are clearly things I can do myself and other things that I am going to get done as buying the tools to it once is probably not great. I have at a garage at the moment to get a new rear axle fitted, as this requires more than 1 person to do the work I want to do.... basically want them to drop the whole rear sub frame axle and all and fit a newer more serviced one. Anyway once this is done I am thinking that I will focus on the engine as its running really rough and its using oil in number 3 cylinder and there is a lot of carbon in number 4 which means at best a new head gasket or worst recon the engine as the rings are broken and its scored the block. anyway its a longer journey than I liked, but hey these things are a labour of love! Dale
  13. hey, thanks for all the feedback really appreciate it :good from what I an tell in the documentation and the link above (thanks for that) its a mark 3 with inboard coli overs. so I guess the question is whether I need to brace the front suspension. and if there are any fabricators in and around london that know what they are doing in regards to this. I have decided to get the electrics sorted out first as I think this is the biggest hazard and then will replace the fuel filler as suuggested above with a flex hose instead as well as a few other things. I will post some pics tomorrow to get your opinions. Dale
  14. Hi, I recently bought my first Robin Hood and its an S7 with a stainless steel monocoque chassis from a local guy, and while its not on the road, it has been on the road before and all it really needs is an MOT and I will be having fun ! anyway the guy who had it pulled bits off of it here and there, they all came in a box... which I need to sift through to see if its any good. Its been looked at by a mechanic and has given me a "list" of things that need to be fixed before it can pass MOT, but I have been speaking to Richard from GBS and he has given me a steer around a couple of things, but I would like to ask a few more questions on what others have done and some advice based on what I am thinking of doing... 1. there is a short in the electrics that needs to be sorted, but I am thinking that I might get a sparky to pull it all out and put in a new fuse box and master isolator switch so that I can ensure that its done properly. Has anyone got advice on what I should also consider ? 2. Fuel system: the fuel filler pipe looks like it came from the doner car and has an breather / overflow section that is open and needs to be sealed... although I dont know whether I should use a end cap or fill it with a sealant (or both) as it wont pass MOT with it open. the fuel sender unit, looks like its an aftermarket one but is only held on by 4 bolts which are studded into the fuel tank and while I think its working... I need to seal it as well as it failed a smoke test, and I dont know whether refitting a new sender unit might be better. 3. CHassis: its all stainless and it looks like it has been welded in some places already i cant see any major cracks anywhere so I think I am ok, however I have told that I should add some additional bracing for the front suspension as that is where the most of issues will come from with metal fatigue. SO thats not something that I can do and was going to send it somewhere to get it done (maybe GBS themselves) but if anyone has done this before I would like to know. 4. Suspension: front: is missing a few bolts and the wing brackets need to replaced but I have some new ones with the car, however I would like to know whether anyone has a diagram on how the suspension is meant to go together as I think I am missing a few bits. rear: everthing looks ok but I think the rear bottom wishbone is quite rusty and may need replaced, but if I am going to pull the suspension apart to replace all the bushes then I might replace it as well, but I dont know where I can get a decent replacement from as I cant find any reconditioned bits online. 5. engine its a pretty decent engine (from the documentation I have) but the biggest question I have is whether its any good as the fuel is very old, the Carbs (dual webers) need be serviced and it doesnt idle. but I have had conflicting advice on what to do... from replacing it with a Zetec to just a service and tune! does any one have any advice to how to check it out properly. Sorry for the long post... I hope someone can help.
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