Ford Sierra Donor For Sale

[Guest john]

Hi All,

 

I have for a sale a Ford Sierra 5-door Hatchback and IMHO is the ideal donor vehicle.

 

This car has been used by my son for the last year or so, and he has now bought something newer, I have been keeping an eye on it as a future donor, and now I am able to offer it to someone in the group who is about to begin their build.

 

I can honestly say it starts well, and burns no oil, the 5 speed box feels good, and there is no noise from the gearbox or whine in the diff.

 

It has covered 90k miles, and is a 'J' reg, ( November 1991 ).

The engine is a 1.6 with carb and autochoke. It sounds smooth with no clatter in the top end.

 

I built my 2B from a 1.6 donor and found the 1.6 braking system ideal for the lighter kitcar. Its easy to upgrade to a 2.0litre any time. I did.

 

It was my experience that the 1.6 is a little easier to get through the noise test at SVA, and the upgrade to 2.0 litre is a straight swop .

 

It does not have power steering, which is good because the rack should be the right one for the kitcar.

 

 

The MOT is valid for another 6 months, and it is currently taxed. Its ready to drive away.

You could even use it for 6 months before stripping down.

 

 

Price is £ 100, and buyer to collect please, we are near Reading, RG10.

 

 

I know these things are getting a bit harder to find lately, so hope someone in the club needs one.

 

Regards

JP.

[Guest john]

Oops Forgot to add my phone no.

 

07977 45 44 90, or send me a PM.

 

Hope it goes quick, I need the drive space back.! :boohoo:

[Guest crwoodford]

John, you have a PM

Regards

Col (Taunton)

[Guest john]

I still have this donor sierra to dispose of, can't believe its still here.

C'mon out there, someone must need one. Where are all the new kit builders ?

[Guest ScotMac]

I would love to take it...could be difficult getting it to the US, though. At the very least, i would like to get the halfshafts/driveshafts off it, if at some point you are looking to junk it (assuming they are push-in style). I know it is a lot of work getting them out, so we could work out something for the time and sweat....

[Guest elwe]

Hmm this could be a good place for me to get a gearbox.

 

If I were to buy it and break it up for easy items (i.e. not the whole wiring loom) would anyone else want bits?

[Guest salty_monk]

Scot,

 

Don't think the 1.6 Driveshafts would fit your lobro joints or your diff...

 

You'd need to measure & count the splines.

 

Some 1.6 & 1.8's are smaller shafts than the 2.0

 

 

Dan

[Guest ScotMac]

Yes, that would be bad. I assumed that were only two types, the lobro and the tri-pode (not counting the cossie stuff, that is).

[Guest micky bigthumbs]

Scot SLOW DOWN you are looking for the best for your L/W but hang back i did the same iv'e got engines and diffs enough to make three or tree hoods comming out my ears

[Guest ScotMac]

Well, so far i ONLY have two diffs, and *one* set of flanges, and *one* set of driveshafts. But your right, i am trying hard!!! ;-)

 

I have a deadline. In order to get this DMV registered w/out having to pass smog, i have to finish before the year is out (or else i also throw away ~$500).

[Guest micky bigthumbs]

You will waste more than that on stuff you dont need ...fix your targets aim for a pass and then do the add ons...I realy feel like an old geezer now i said that

 

Mick

[Guest micky bigthumbs]

My personal view is that a lsd will do more dammage than good to my 3a chassis also to an unknown L/W energy is dispersed to the wheel that is spinning...if an lsd is used it disperses energy through the chassis ..in a L/W this is un documented .....IMO.....

 

Mick

[Guest ScotMac]

It is my understanding that the maximum amount of force put on the chassis is determined by the engine and the traction/friction of the tires. That does not change, regardless whether you use an LSD or not. The only thing that an LSD will do is make it so that you are more likely (or more often) near that maximum, because it is more efficient at ensuring that that the force is not *bleep* away on a tire/wheel w/ no traction. That is a good thing. And i am sure you have seen my "strengthening the l/w" thread, where i am attempting to ensure that the l/w can handle the load.

 

ie, i would much rather try to make/design the car to handle the performance i want... note, this car will be raced.

[Guest salty_monk]

Scot,

 

Agree you'd want an LSD for the track for defo.

 

Like every other type of Robin Hood before it, you'll have to build the L/W to the best of your ability, strengthen as you see fit & then just keep an eye on it...

 

I very much doubt if anything will fail catastrophically without showing signs of failure first so as long as you keep inspecting for fatigue etc everything should be fine!!

 

Any ideas for making the Diff removeable? Personally I think it would be worthwhile in case you want to change it or change ratio or replace plates or something....

 

Shame we're not closer, I could have come show you how to make real tea

 

Or at least drink your coffee

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

[Guest ScotMac]

Dan, yes, i believe i am doing ok, in terms of making sure the chassis is strong enough, but it is something that i will have to monitor. In fact, since i am using aluminum to strengthen it, it will be susceptible to long term fatique problems.

 

I will have to think about the removeable diff issue. As some of us l/w'ers talked about, it *could* be as simple as just making some type of door on rear panel...would have to think about how to do cleanly.

 

You can come up here any time, and though i have tea, i am sure it isn't quite the same!!! Let alone the fact that i don't really have any idea what "crumpets" are!!! ;-)

 

BTW, when are you gonna bring your car over? Sometime this summer or fall, that way you would ready to register it next year. Better hurry, i hear rumblings that sb100 may be going away.

 

Cheers, -sm