Carbon Build Up

[Guest chris]

Hi guys,

any usefull tips on how best to remove carbon build up on valves and cylinder head

would be most helpfull as Im currently trying to refurb an unleaded pinto head I have aquired.

thanks

chris

[Guest dajimmy]

The best way i found, is with a drill mounted wire brush. You have to be carefull, but works a treat.If yoe have a bench grinder with wirebrush attachment, even better for the valves!

[Guest Takumi]

nonono, Ive put gaffa tape around the valve stem, and placed it into the chuck of a drill, spin it at high speed and apply an abrasive, like emry cloth fairly coarse i used, then fine wet and dry, you'll see the blackness turn to brown , and eventually after a few miuntes youll get down to the stainless , from here, just using brasso or a good metal polish to bring it upto a shine, this will help air flow, and prevent future carbon build up.,

 

As for the head, get a small round type wire wheel for you Black and decker and put it up the port and dont breathe.

 

The chamberes should have the same treatment, after all the black has gone, get a dremel multi tool like drill and fit the small grind stone onit, and smoove around the chamber face, and the entry/exit mouths of the ports.

 

happy cleaning..

 

 

pic is of my newly prepared 2.0i head with DGV manifold.

Whatcha think, anygood.?

[Guest chris]

Cheers chaps,

Any other tips on what I should poss be doing while the heads off would be most appreciated.

Takumi,Im fitting a lynx 4 into 2 manifold to fit a 45dcoe,should just fit!

[Guest timswait]

My mate's Sierra keeps running on after the ignition is turned off. As far as I can tell the shut off solenoid on the carb works fine. This is rather puzzling as the engine didn't do it when it was in my Hood, but the previous engine in his Sierra did (although to a lesser extent).

One possiblity could be carbon fouling. Are there any ways to remove this without having to take the head off? I thought it might be possible to get something to squirt down the carb?

[Guest daveg]

Tim

 

Depends on how long it runs for, can you have a bath and come back and its still running? or does it run for a couple of seconds?

 

if its the former then you have a faulty ignition switch or relay in which case find the fault NOW or risk the car going up in flames if its the latter then you can get some squirty stuff (if the damn environmetalist haven't banned it)

 

Dave

[Guest Takumi]

good, good..

the lynx manifold distributes the mix a bit more evenly than the stock manifold, where did you find your manifold.. ?

What sort of card are you going to employ..? 38 DGAS, or you could get the converter plate to allow use of 4 barrel Holley and 4 barrel weber carbs, obviously these are for full race applicaions.hehe,

let me know, your setup sounds intriguing

 

ive only managed a gas flowed, and v/mildly ported 2.0i head

performance valves, 32/36 DGV carb. hoping for 120+ hp (115 is 2.0i std output)

 

www.esslingerracing.com

lots of performance parts for the Pinto (american 2.3L)

 

look forward to hearing about your engine.

 

tak

[Guest Takumi]

Not sure much space there will be if your going to use a DCOE,

most people have small clearance using twin DCOEs on very short manifolds, with the extra depth of the lynx manifold, would not the carb need a hole cut in your side panel to clear it.?

I would have liked to have used the same manifold and carb, I dont like the idea of twin DCOEs, overkill and no Eco, the single DCOE sounded much more realistic to me. Although I was never able to find a lynx manifold local enough. Maytbe my next engine will have one, must look out for another 2.0i, FR32 cam, lynx manifolld and 45mm DCOE, and some alloy replacment aux pulley wheels from esslinger. .oo and a nice 4 branch

 

does anyone know what is the rpm limit for inj conrods? I read 7500 rpm.

Any advances.?

 

 

thnx

 

tak.