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Pedal Box


Guest DROID

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Hi folks, Just about to fit the steering rack and pedal box and would like to know if there are any problems I should be aware of or if anybody has any tips on how to fit. I have the stainless steel version of the 2b with the new type rack.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Droid

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Guest Battery Bill

Hey Droid

Of course there are problems fitting the pedal box, this is a "Robin Hood" your talking about!

You have to juggle it around to clear the steering shaft whilst making sure the pedals miss the chassis on the inboard side.

The little bit of metal that is supplied to hold the steering shaft bearing needed one of its little lugs completely removing so that it went as far right as possible.

Remember the accelerator pedal (Richard forgot that on the video).

Have a look at our website it might help

Have fun

 

 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bill.b1/bill/...ages/pedal.html

Edited by mickmellors
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First thing which springs to mind is the exhaust manifold. Put it on the engine first, otherwise you'll find your steering shaft goes through its space later on!

 

There's a lot of fiddling to be done with the pedal box and steering shaft. The rack on mine was dead straight forward - just bolt it down to the holes which were pre-drilled on my chassis. Some people tilt it up at the back to lift the shaft slightly and get more manifold clearance. Then hang the steering column to the chassis with some string, and get it at about the right height for you ... plonking a seat in may help here. Next loosly clamp in the pedal box and make sure the clutch will travel all the way down without catching the chassis. Then clamp the accelerator pedal to the servo plate and see if your feet will fit between the brake pedal and the outer edge of the car to press it.

 

Tip at this point - do it in lots of different pairs of shoes. I falsly assumed that my toe-tector boots would be my largest item of footware and set it up whilst wearing them. I now find I have a careful angled foot position requirement when wearing normal shoes or sandles!

 

The next potantial problem is the brake servo catching the bonnet. Trial fit them before any drilling!

 

Once it's all clamped up the final test is to rotate the steering and watch the steering shaft to exhaust manifold clearance again. My shaft is slightly off centre to the universal joints, and as it turns it get closer to the manifold. Beware of this!

 

Most people put the steering shaft between the brake and the accelerator, and the steering wheel is not quite face on to the driver, but it is in the middle of the driver's seating position. This isn't noticable once it's all finished, and I reckon it's better than most vauxhalls where the steering wheel isn't centred relative to the driver. Line up the centre of the steering wheel with the centre of the upper seatbelt mounts when looking from the front or rear of the car, and hopefully your seat will be centred on this line too.

 

That's about it I reckon. The main thing is to get EVERYTHING clamped in before you fix anything, and try out things like the seat, and pressing the pedals, and turning the steering, etc. I'd also double check it all the next day and the day after that before you get the drill out. Mine was clamped up for about 2 or 3 weeks, and I kept fiddling with it all during that time, and mulling over the options.

 

Ant

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Ant's instructions sound about right to me, when did you pick up your kit? which steering shaft do you have? I had to machine mine to get some room between the shaft and the manifold. have you done your firewall yet mine was 2" lower on the nearside compared with the servo plate. Be prepared to assemble and disassemble many many times before you will get it right. Make sure you leave enough clearance for the column switches.

 

I picked up my kit Dec 01 and did not have to tilt the steering rack I am pretty certain that RHE changed the rack type during 2002 check with Bill & Joey they had to tilt theres.

 

Good Luck

 

Dave B :D

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I didn't use the RHE dash panel, so I don't know. Just make sure that the column has the shroud and switches on it and put a piece of tape across the dash area to mark how close to the driver the panel will be - this helps to get the steering column the right distance from the driver.

 

Ant

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I haven't got as far as fitting the dash panel yet and don't intend to use the RHE stainless one. I have allowed enough room for a plywood or MDF up to 20mm thick to gain extra room you can pull the triangular shaft of the steering column to give you some extra length. You will need to fit a bar to strengthen the servo bracket and the column mounting needs beefing up a little.

 

Dave B

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Ant, thanks for taking the time to help me. Have you finished your car? how is it to drive? are you happy overall with the finished article??

 

Droid

 

"Finished" - no, most definitely not. SVA'd and driving it to work every day - yup. It's been on the road since mid June, and I've totted up almost 3000 miles so far!.

 

I think it's excellent to drive, but you have to remember I was brought up on a mini 850, a 1.0 uno, and a 1.8 cvh sierra. Compared to them it's scarely fast! That said I'm not into throwing it around and screaching on the limits of adhesion - that's just not me. The other thing is that it's my first kit car, I've driven no others, and I've only had a ride in a westfield. Compared to the westfield mine is bliss - I can fit in it and adjust the seatbelts without getting out - that has to be a plus!

 

I'm happy - very happy. Plenty to tweak, and lots to actually finish - 2 months on from SVA and I've still not got a boot lid - too busy driving it to make one so far!

 

Ant

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Ant, sounds like lots of fun and I think I know what you mean by saying your not finished, is a kit car ever finished??????

 

Thanks again for your help.....

 

Droid

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