Pedal Box For 2b

[Guest markc123]

I am having a great deal of difficulty fitting the pedal box to my 2b. I have read through all the posts i could find with the search feature.

 

My question is this - which side for the steering shaft - between brake and accel or brake and clutch. Mines going between the brake and clutch now, but the brake pedal fouls sometimes.

 

Also when fitting the servo plate, has anyone moved it a little rearwards? to me it looks like if i removed some metal from the bracket where the chassis tube is it would allow me to bring the servo plate back a little - giving just a bit more clearance.

 

Any help would be appreciated as this is an ongoing headache!

 

 

Mark

[Guest Guy]

I mounted my stearing shaft between the brake and the throttle, I also cut and re-welded the throttle peddle into a better shape. you need lots of room in your engine bay and having the stearing shaft out of the way is a great help. Check it doesnt fowl when you turn the stearing as the shafts are rarly strait.

 

I also bent my brake plate forwards, but check that the resivwior doesnt hit the bonnet. I cut lots of metal off most of the brackets to make things fit.

 

You will need to brace the plate, most people put a tube from the Sierra peddle mount to the chassis tube that the stearing wheel mounts to.

[Guest Ant]

Mine is between the brake and the accelerator. The accelerator bracket was modified by me to make the fixed part narrower. The accelerator pedal is also tilted out towards the side of the car. There's not much room between the brake and the side of the car to get to the accelerator!

 

Ant

[Guest TerryBarry]

I've got steering shaft between brake and throttle pedal.

I also cut one side of the "T" shaped mounting bracket off.

This is the only way it would fit - and even then it's a squeeze.

This is on a 2B with front wishbones and four branch exhaust.

If you've got sliding pillars it's different.

Terry

[Guest markc123]

Thanks all.

 

Will try moving the shaft over tonite.

 

Hopefully i can get it so i am happy with it

[Guest DaveB]

Hi Mark

 

Mines between the brake and thottle I also had to cut down the T shaped bracket. Be prepared to take the pedal assy in and out loads of times I rate the pedals and firewall as the most difficult job so far on my build.

 

Dave B

[Guest Twoscoops]

I know exactly what problems your having....I'm doing the same thing at the mo (last night).

 

I have a 2B with wishbones, 4 branch manifold and a low hanging alternator.

 

As per all the other replies, I cut the tabs off the front of the servo plate and brought the whole plate forward and moved it into as close to the engine as possible so the clutch pedal just fouls on the chassis tube. I then squeezed the clutch pedal together a little with the vice so that it clears the chassis. The column then passes between the brake and the accelerator pedal. The accelerator pedal is fixed slightly off towards the offside at the foot end, this helps if you have got size 10 feet and you don't want to press the brake when accelerating or feel the rack turn on the inside of you right foot.

 

Phew...I'm not sure whether it was harder explaining it or fitting it..!!!

[Guest cjbailey]

this helps if you have got size 10 feet and you don't want to press the brake when accelerating or feel the rack turn on the inside of you right foot.

Oh sh!t.

Mine are size 13.

[Guest Twoscoops]

Maybe you should sit in the car with plasticine on your toes and see if the bonnet shuts with those 'plates of meat'....!!!

[Guest cjbailey]

Hehehehe. My build is still waiting to be started, but when I get to that stage I think I shall be making some modifications . Either that, or I will be driving barefoot ! I am just an all round big bloke... 6'4", size 13 feet and weighing in at a hefty (though not quite as hefty as before) 17 stone.

Hmmm... Now I put it like that, I NEED MORE POWER !

[Guest Guy]

It sounds like most people have had to modify the throttle peddle in some way, I cut and re-welded mine so it was further away from the brake as well.

 

When I sat in the Super Speck demonstrater at the show, I couldn't fit my foot between the brake and the outer pannel. The throttle wasn't connected up (I wonder why? )

[Guest markc123]

Its now fitted.

 

Removed the Right hand tab of the steering bracket to shove it over, and ground a little of the servo plate off so i could bring the whole assembly back into the car a bit. This allows the clutch 33mm of cable pull - another thread suggests 28-30mm should be enough. Brake pedal seems to have plenty of travel as well.

 

Steering turns freely with no clicking from the UJ's so im happy with that.

 

Photos will be on my website in a few days.

 

Theres space for the Accelerator as well but it will need a little re-shaping.

 

Tools requires - Angle Grinder and Selection of hammers (Sound Familiar?)

 

When my co builder has tried the cockpit for size i can bolt all down and call it a day.

 

[Guest Mr Pid]

I had to modify mine alot, again i cut and welded the accelerator pedal, the shaft runs between this and the brake, it raised up about two inches and back two inches- it took me about a week solid to get everything right but it is now solid as a rock and is quite happy with me clambering all over it whilst building the rest of the car.

 

It does sit proud of the bonnet, hence a small vent required but hey its worth it to make way for the T25 turbo.

 

Good Luck.

 

Stu