Geometry Of Front Bones Out.....

[Guest bloke]

just finished fitting engine- cool momentous occasion in build but it hasnt helped with the front ride height as now shown up error with chassis geometry

 

the bottom bone rear cross member is about 5 mm off centre throwing ride height unequal on each side (about 12mm difference)

 

i could alter the bottom coilover bracket distance but the geometry of the chassis matters right????

 

 

heeeelp please

 

[Guest daveg]

Hi

 

I am not sure what you mean...any chance of a photo?

 

I don't think you have much to worry about 5mm isn't very much

 

Dave

[Guest bloke]

sorry cant do photos but here goes

 

the bottom bones pivot front an rear on front x member(box sec) an rear x member(angle)

 

the centre of each x member should be dead centre to the chassis but the rear is about 5 mm + to the right

 

what this does is push the right hand bottom coil position out lowering the chassis and the left bottom coil in makin it higher

 

also pushes the right wheel forward compared to the left

 

the geometry cant be right and to equal the ride height/ ground clearance the bottom coilover mounts will be differently positioned on L and R bottom bones

 

anyone else had this prob?

[Guest Battery Bill]

Hi Bloke

If I am getting what you are saying right, could you not elongate your rear x member (angle) and fit a packer to take up the slack Or weld up the hole and drill it 5 mm to the left.

Probably not any help but I'm still a bit lost where the "Bones" come into it?

How about a drawing!

Bill and Joey

[Guest Ant]

I think I'm with it. Can't remember what mine came like, but is the hole in the angle section pre-drilled? If not then I think the position you've drilled it at is the problem. With hindsight if you'd discovered this problem earlier the solution would have been to cut down the longer end to match the shorter one, hence making it symetric. So the problem now is how to get back to that position.

 

If you've got access to a stainless welder then I would put a re-inforcing plate over the rear-mopst side of the hole, weld fill the front side, and then cut down the section and re-drill the hole.

 

Alternatively, as the spacer washers go on the rearmost side of the back wishbone mount, make the holes bigger and use the washers to spread the load. If the washers are a snug fit on the bolt then it will be fine.

 

Third option again relies on the extra space filled up with washers behind the rear most wishbone mounts. You could remove the outer couple of inches of the vertical part of the angle section - ie leave it welded in, but remove a piece around the holes. Then bolt another piece of angle on top of it, cut its lengths to make it sit centrally behind the box section at the front, and then drill it where you like.

 

Thinking about it, option 3 sounds the best bet to me. No welding, and as long as the new piece of angle is the same strength as the original then it doesn't weaken the system at all.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Other things to check - are the upper coilover mounts symetric to the front cross member, or to the angle piece, or to neither? I wouldn't worry too much about where the chassis tubes are in relation to it all, so long as you end up with wishbones which are symetric about some point, and the coilovers look about the same. Remember that the engine in the 2B is angled to the passenger side at the front in order to fit the manifold, alternator and brake servo in, hence there is more weight on the passenger side at the front on an un-laden vehicle, hence the coilovers are never set up symetrically anyhow.

 

Ant

 

Ant

[Guest bloke]

nice one ant, hope is what i need an a solution without a welder

 

the rear angle has pre formed holes so any remedy will cancel the inherent prob

 

 

havin just fitted the engine how do you angle it to the p side? or does this happen via the chassis mounts?

 

any hows thanks loads for yor reply

[Guest Ant]

The engine was angled to the passenger side at the front automatically by the engine mounts on my car. Not a vast amount - say 5 degrees angle of turn at most.

 

Anyhow when are you going to go from a community user to a fully fledged RHOCAR member? You could even get the help of other 2B builders who are close to you then! If you're really lucky you could measure up the position of everything on someone else's chassis and modify yours accordingly. See, the joys of membership are near endless

 

Ant

[Guest MikeD318]

Anyhow when are you going to go from a community user to a fully fledged RHOCAR member?

 

Watch out Mick, I think Ant's after your job!

[Guest gordon_macnab]

Just noticed I'm still down as a community user although I'm a club member. How do I change this?

 

Is this done automatically Mick?

 

Gordon

[Guest TerryBarry]

Have a look at Mat's message here.

Message June 3

Terry

[Guest bloke]

will be payin subs soon as the subs period begins and am lookin forward to bein paid in

 

this forum is excellent and i support mat in lettin us on the outside post cos we all have a shared interest including supporting each others build and the more of us then the richer this resource is

 

i also can see the added benefits of bein paid in and am lookin forward to then

 

again thanks for your replys - nice one

 

am guessin that i need to fit more stuff on the get closer to finished laiden weight till i start choppin bits of the roll over bar an drillin more holes in me bottom bones to level it all up with 7 ins ground clearance front and bock floor to underside of side pannel???? rsvp svp