Refurbishing Alloy Wheels

[Guest Andybarbet]

Having just got a very cheap set of alloys, i just wanted to know if anyone had some tips on cleaning them up/rubbing them down and painting them etc.

 

Is there any type of mild abrasive disc/wire wheel thats fits to a drill that won't damage the surface too much and might save me some elbow grease ? (Or is wet'n'dry paper best ?)

 

Also what type of primer/paint to use ?

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

[Guest mickmellors]

I've painted 2 sets of 5 alloy wheels for friends in the past and did them pretty much the same way same both times.

 

I got them gently sand blasted with very fine new clean grit which is almost like fine caster sugar rather than the recycled dirty coarse stuff used for old garden gates and rusty lumps of cast iron etc. It cost a bit extra because the grit is new before you start, gets lost in the process and doesnt get recycled. If I remember corectly I paid £35 for the first lot about 4 years ago and about £45 for the second lot at a different place 2 years ago. Phone around and find someone who is prepared to go to this trouble, some are not. The metal is soft and easily overdone by a heavy handed operator.

 

Get the tyres and valves removed, take off any balancing weights and remove any trace of adhesive left behind before taking them for sand blasting.

 

A set of wheels takes up a considerable space in the garage when they have to be kept apart and out of the way of overspray whilst painting others. Place them around the garage to see how much space you need. If 'storage' space for all 5 wheels at once is a problem, do them on or two at a time so as not to risk spoiling them. Also consider that the overspray from 6 coats of paint on 5 wheels is quite considerable and will cover EVERYTHING in your garage that is not protected.

Only spray outdoors if there is absolutely no possibility of rain for at least 2-3 hours.

 

Any obvious scrapes and scratches in the metal were tidied up with a Dremel with a worn drum sander and then filled with cellulose putty, left to go hard for a week and then rubbed back.

 

If you dont have access to paint spraying gear, pay someone to do it properly for you - dont use aerosols - you will never be happy with the results.

 

Buy the best thinner the shop supplies - cheap stuff is for cleaning guns out with - not for painting your pride and joy.

 

You then have a choice - use etching primer or standard primer. I did one set one way and one the other. I see both cars regularly and they both still look good, so I guess you pays your money and takes your choice on that one. Ask your suppliers advice. Either way make sure it is thoroughly stirred before use.

 

Mix primer with thinner as directed. Try it with your gun on a test piece before approaching your wheels.

 

I sprayed one light coat of primer to show up any scratches or imperfections that I had missed at raw metal stage and put them right. Use this coat to get a feel for the wrist action required to follow the curves of the wheel. Gently rub down with well used wet or dry with clean fresh warm water. New paper will be too sharp and will remove too much paint. Dont worry at this stage if you rub through the paint on the high spots and edges but take much more care on successive coats.

 

Dry wheels thoroughly with a cloth and stand them in the warm to ensure completely dry. Move the dog from infront of the fire ! GRRRRR ! !

 

Spray 2nd coat primer, slightly heavier than 1st but still quite light.

Gently rub down again with part worn paper, warm clean water. Dry as before.

 

Spray a 3rd coat primer, again quite light, making sure to get no runs.

Gently rub down again with part worn paper, warm clean water.

 

Mix your 'colour' paint as instructed making sure you dont over thin it. You can always add more thinner but you cant take it out ! !

 

Spray 1st colour coat, nice and even but light and avoid runs. It is too easy to allow yourself to just put a bit more on - and then watch it start to slide ! - be patient, let it dry a bit before squirting a bit more on - it only takes a minute.

Leave to dry.

 

Take advice from the supplier if you are using metallic paint as to whether to rub down at this stage.

 

Spray 2nd colour coat. Do not rub down. Leave to dry.

 

Spray one nice even coat of lacquer (usually sold ready to use). Leave to dry THOROUGHLY for 24 hours.

 

Wheels are heavy items and when handling, if the paint is not 100% dry and set hard, it will take an impression of fingerprints if you lift them or move them, ruining your hard work. Leave them at least 24 hours before you pick them up or move them. If you do have to move them, handle them by the inside of the rim where the tyre will be to avoid damage.

 

It is at least a full weekends work to do a good job on a set of wheels but it is well worth the effort. Good wheels set off a cars looks and make a fantastic difference to its appearance when they are done right. Take your time and you will reap the rewards.

[Mat-Moo]

I rubbed down a really grubby set of allow with wet and dry once, after cleaning and spraying they came up a treat to be honest (and a couple of coats of laquer).... however I did manage to wear out my fingernails as well as working with wet and dry in all the nooks and crannies is hard woark with a block!

[Guest Andybarbet]

Thanks Mick/Mat,

 

I've used a scouring pad on one test wheel with with some Autoglym alloy wheel cleaner (I work for them so its very cheap!) and it has taken off the thick muck and break dust quite well.

 

Think i'll go for the wet'n'dry route then as it sounds basically like preparing a car for a re-spray and i don't think they are bad enough to need bead blasting. I've got a compressor/spraygun etc. and have re-sprayed a few cars in my time so that's the bit i'm looking forward too.

 

I've also got a Dremel, so will try that on the scuff's as you mentioned, it hadn't even crossed my mind !

 

As far as the paint goes, ive got half a gallon of anti-bloom thinners and have been thinking of using silver Smoothrite as it's an enamel paint. I used this (in black) on the sills of my TR7 some 8 years ago and when it was taken away to the graveyard last week they were the only shiny bits left on it !

 

Sounds basically like it's all in the preperation - me thinks, still as you said it'll be worth it !

 

Cheers Andy B.....