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Zero Build Questions


Guest 2b_pablo

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Guest 2b_pablo

Thinking of selling up my Mk2 and building a zero. The kit is pretty well priced at around 2k but what else is needed to complete the build?

 

Im guessing:

 

kit (inc collection and weldng) (£2500)

engine (£700)

gearbox (with engine)

exhaust manifold (with engine)

exhaust can (£150)

diff (£300)

driveshafts (£100)

front and rear hubs (with shafts)

shocks (£330)

wheels (£200)

brakes (£400)

steering wheel (£100)

steering rack and column (£100)

cooling system (rad fans and pipes) (£200)

battery (£30)

seats (£150)

clocks (£150)

wiring loom? (with engine)

fuel sender (with clocks)

misc switches (£50)

misc wiring (£30)

misc piping (brake lines, fuel lines etc) (£50)

 

SVA: (£500)

 

total: £6040

 

trying to roughly cost up what it would take to build one. I can get a blade engine/gearbox/prop and ecu wiring etc for £700 so in thoery there shouldnt be *that* much left to go?

 

thoughts please guys I really want to do this!

Edited by 2b_pablo
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Guest Alex Spratt
Thinking of selling up my Mk2 and building a zero. The kit is pretty well priced at around 2k but what else is needed to complete the build?

 

Im guessing:

 

kit (inc collection and weldng) (£2500)

 

thoughts please guys I really want to do this!

 

Haha i convinced u!! :D and now i'm going to be jealous!!! :(

 

Ferry, Van and diesel from ireland and back??

 

U will need and engine craddle and an exhaust mainfold and can??

 

what welding u planing on doing to the chassis??

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Guest 2b_pablo

does the chassis come prebuilt? I was budgeting a bit extra for that either from the factory or getting someone to weld it for me.

 

Id prob get it shipped over if possible, have a couple of family members who work for haulage companies that sould maybe bring it back, or else pop over on the ferry with a trailer.

 

oh yeah manifold comes with engine :)

Edited by 2b_pablo
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Guest scottie686

I'm in the middle of a zero build at the moment. A rough breakdown of price so far as follows;

 

Kit - which includesPre-welded chassis, inner and outter Panels, GRP, wishbones (but no dampers or springs), lighting pack, pedal box. All these parts are not part of the kit, but i purchased additionally from GBS - engine mounts (for zetec), starter motor, fuel tank (which doesn't come with the kit and the zero tank is different from the other tanks), fuel sender (in tank), Steering column and key, 4-way brake union, pressure switch and braided lines, new propshaft, race rollbar, 2.4 Quickrack - £2,400 inc VAT

 

Engine - £230 (ford breakers)

Gearbox - £100 (eBay)

Shortened Sump - £239 (Dunnell Engines)

Lightened Fkywheel - £115 (Dunnell Engines)

Zetec Clutch Kit - £110 (Dunnell Engines)

ZX9R Carbs, custom inlet Manifold, Carb strip, rebuild, Re-jet, plus 2psi bike fuel pump - £439 (Boggs Brothers)

Exhaust Manifold - £119 (Jetex) I haven't bought a manifold, rather pre-bent tube to make my own. Pre-made, cheapest i found £200.

Coilpack and Edis System - £44 (eBay)

Cosworth Limited Slip Diff - £150 (eBay)

Driveshafts XR4X4 - £80 (eBay)

Megajolt ECU - £100 (eBay)

New Front hubs - £90 (eBay)

Rear Hubs - £40 (eBay)

Rear bearings - £72 (Local)

Coilovers - £330 (Dampertech)

Wheels with tyres - £399 (eBay)

Ally Expansion Tank - £94 (Car Builder Solutions)

Copper Fuel pipe - £36 (Car Builder Sols)

Fiberglass seat - £117

Harness 3" - £94 (Xpower.co.uk)

Radiator and fan - part of kit above

Calipers, discs and pads front - £120

Calipers rear - free (brother)

Rear discs and pads - £35 (Halfords)

Wiring Loom - making my own, but, wire, relays, fusebox, switches, etc - £80-90

Exhaust - £65 (GBS)

Dash dials - £free (brother)

 

 

I'm sure there's loads i've missed or left out!! I think the one thing i bought which was a god send was my air riveter. Runs perfectly off my 25hp compressor and after approx. 800 rivets has saved soooo much time!!

 

Any questions just hola!

 

Scott.

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Guest 2b_pablo

did you have to wait long from ordering?

 

Also what engine are you using? zetec?

 

Im in two minds if I sell my own to build or buy built. looks like the build is heading towards megablade money.

Edited by 2b_pablo
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Guest timswait

You can probably use the Blade's exhaust Mani, and you can probably even use a motorbike can, there'll definitely be some modification involved to both to make them fit the car though. And reusing the bike mani means the exhaust passes under the engine which may mean mounting it higher than is ideal. Also as Alex says you'll need to fabricate a cradle to hold the engine. The chassis should be fully welded, but you'll probably have some modfications (involving welding) to do to fit your bike engine cradle.

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Guest scottie686
did you have to wait long from ordering?

 

Also what engine are you using? zetec?

 

Im in two minds if I sell my own to build or buy built. looks like the build is heading towards megablade money.

 

 

I wanted to wait a while for mine, to co-incide with some holiday time i had booked off, but i think in normal circumstances it's about a 3 week wait so they can get bits'n'piecees together and the chassis welded. I'm heading down the zetec route. The car fully assembled according to GBS will weigh a little over half a ton, so a bike application could be a cool way to go. As in previous threads, mods will need to be made to take the bike lump and not sure where to locate a quaiffe reverse box. Maybe an idea to chat to GBS about it. I personally, money permitting, would consider maybe a cosworth turbo application?!?!?!

 

Scott.

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Guest scottie686
lol cossie turbo would indeed be the job!

 

My brother is currently doing a cossie turbo conversion on his 3a. Found an old cossie on eBay for £2,500 and used all the parts from there but with a few changes such as dry sump, omex ecu with launch control and anti lag, custom turbo manifold. It's gonna be a giggle thats for sure!!

 

S.

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Guest zoomzoom

hi

Going to pick up my zero kit this saturday :D

The only extras so far ordered with the kit are shocks, springs, and a donor kit (engine box etc)

Great value for money ;)

Can't wait !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Guest scottie686
is there much work involved in fitting the metal panels? ie are they precut and easy to fit or need to be cut and fitted?

 

cheers

 

Errrrm, yes and no, from what i have done so far. The side panels fitted very well. All pre-bent and pre-cut. I just 'G' clamped them in position and started drilling and riveting. Worked out to be around 200-220 (maybe more!!!) rivets per side. The back panel and transmission tunnel panels were a little more involved, but nothing to taxing. Where the panels sat against the bars, some had notches cut out to allow them to fit round other tubing, some of the these notches needed widening or just generally made bigger to allow them to fit over or around. I found that the measurements of the panels was accurate but needed adjusting slightly, for instance where two bars joined, the original space where the panel would fit was reduced due to the weld on the tubes, and therefore the panel would not sit flat. Surface mounted panels were fine though. You will need to grind all the welds on the chassis though to ensure panels sit flat.

 

The two panels that i think will involve a bit of work will be the back panel, which is pre-cut but will need folding and bending and the scuttle which will require the same.

 

The problem i encountered this weekend was engine mounts. I wanted to mock the engine in place so i could start looking at the exhaust manifold design. After getting the lump mated with the gearbox i attached the mounts and had a series of problems. 1) The O/S, when assembled to the rubber gromet and chassis plate braket was too wide!! I couldn't get the mount to sit flat against the block because it was bashing the side panel, and by quite some way. 2) When the metal mount, rubber mount, and chassis plate were assembled there was no way the chassis plate mount would sit flat. If it sat flat then the chassis plate would be at the 35 degree mounting angle they recommend. Currently it's about 45-50 deg. Annoying, but nothing that can't be fixed i'm sure. Finally, 3), and prob the most worrying at the moment. I lowered the engine to what would be the final ride height. The two round tubes that are in the engine bay for strength run right across the face of the exhaust and inlet ports. I'm keeping my fingers firmly crossed the inlet manifold from Bogg Bros i just paid for is angled upwards from the flange and not straight out! or i could have issues!! :help:

 

Scott.

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quick Q: does the new Zero7 use an Escort steering rack? or shortened sierra rack..?

 

I'm trying to work out if I could use as many parts from my locost build as posible..

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