Bleeding Brakes

[Guest wrights]

Hi All

 

I Have been trying to bleed my brakes on my super spec, at present I have bleed them 3 times over 2 days and I can only get the brake pedal to resist half way down, when I bleed the rear brakes, when the pedal is pushed and the nipple is realised the pedal will go straight to the floor. When I bleed the front brakes I can not get the pedal to the floor, it will only go half way.

When you pump the brakes the pedal starts to resist more, which indicates air. I have checked every connection and I am unable to find the problem.

 

Most of the air is coming out on the front brakes

 

The only other thing that is happening is I am getting air releasing from the brake reservoir when you push/ pump the brake pedal.

 

Would the connection from the reservoir into the servo be causing the problem or could I have a leaky brake cylinder, I have check the fronts disc’s and found no problems, what ever the fault is I am getting the same amount of air out of the fronts with slightly less on the rears

 

Any help would be most helpful

 

Cheers

Stephen

 

 

Hi All

 

I have just had a 2nd look at the connection on the servo from the reservoir, I am not 100 % happy with this solution, some one must have a better solution or be able to sell a better solution than sticking 2 copper tubes in the servo reservoir holes.

 

Looking at the servo it looks like the two inlet feeds for the fluid are split to feed the front and back, is this correct.

 

If so could this connection be given me problems.

 

I can recall some one else using bango connections , but I can not recall where he brought the inserts that go into the 2 reservoir inlets.

 

Hope some one can help

 

Stephen

 

Cheers

Stephen

[Guest gavinc]

have a look at this topic..

 

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...mp;#entry150572

 

might be of help.

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi All

 

I Have been trying to bleed my brakes on my super spec, at present I have bleed them 3 times over 2 days and I can only get the brake pedal to resist half way down, when I bleed the rear brakes, when the pedal is pushed and the nipple is realised the pedal will go straight to the floor. When I bleed the front brakes I can not get the pedal to the floor, it will only go half way.

When you pump the brakes the pedal starts to resist more, which indicates air. I have checked every connection and I am unable to find the problem.

 

Most of the air is coming out on the front brakes

 

The only other thing that is happening is I am getting air releasing from the brake reservoir when you push/ pump the brake pedal.

 

Would the connection from the reservoir into the servo be causing the problem or could I have a leaky brake cylinder, I have check the fronts disc’s and found no problems, what ever the fault is I am getting the same amount of air out of the fronts with slightly less on the rears

 

Any help would be most helpful

 

Cheers

Stephen

 

 

Hi All

 

I have just had a 2nd look at the connection on the servo from the reservoir, I am not 100 % happy with this solution, some one must have a better solution or be able to sell a better solution than sticking 2 copper tubes in the servo reservoir holes.

 

Looking at the servo it looks like the two inlet feeds for the fluid are split to feed the front and back, is this correct.

 

If so could this connection be given me problems.

 

I can recall some one else using bango connections , but I can not recall where he brought the inserts that go into the 2 reservoir inlets.

 

Hope some one can help

 

Stephen

 

Cheers

Stephen

 

Hi Stephen,

I think you are bogged down with a problem.

The brake fluid above and behind the master cylinder piston and in the resoviour is under no pressure, only under its own weight from the column height. If oil is not comming out all is well with the construction how ever poor the construction seems. When the master cylinder piston moves back oil under the gravity pressure flows past the master cyliner piston rubber seal so the slave cylinder pistons don't retract only remove the pressure.

 

Only with shot master cylinder seals and air in the system will you get air bubbles going up to the resovior top.

 

Air in the system.

If you don't have oil comming out, air can't get in!

 

So you are having trouble bleeding the brakes!

Make sure you bleed nipples at the top of your slave cylinders!

 

If no oil leak check the master cylinder seals.

 

Regards Alan

 

I my

[Guest Bazwaz]

As Alan says, check that your calipers are fitted the right way round. Bleed nipples at the top.

 

Barry

[Guest wrights]

Hi Stephen,

I think you are bogged down with a problem.

The brake fluid above and behind the master cylinder piston and in the resoviour is under no pressure, only under its own weight from the column height. If oil is not comming out all is well with the construction how ever poor the construction seems. When the master cylinder piston moves back oil under the gravity pressure flows past the master cyliner piston rubber seal so the slave cylinder pistons don't retract only remove the pressure.

 

Only with shot master cylinder seals and air in the system will you get air bubbles going up to the resovior top.

 

Air in the system.

If you don't have oil comming out, air can't get in!

 

So you are having trouble bleeding the brakes!

Make sure you bleed nipples at the top of your slave cylinders!

 

If no oil leak check the master cylinder seals.

 

Regards Alan

 

I my

 

Hi Alan

 

Many thanks, I will check today, I know the nipples are at the top of the master cylinders because that's one off the 1st things I checked

 

cheers

Stephen

[Guest wrights]

Hi All

 

Just looking at the front brake calipers and my bleed nipples are below the fluid input pipe, Has any super spec owners got a photo off the brake calipers. Looks like I need to swap the units from one side to the other.

 

Cheers

Stephen

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi All

 

Just looking at the front brake calipers and my bleed nipples are below the fluid input pipe, Has any super spec owners got a photo off the brake calipers. Looks like I need to swap the units from one side to the other.

 

Cheers

Stephen

 

I think they are standard sierra and will change side easily. Been there as you will see.

 

picture 2B/4 Visit My Website water & brake pipes

 

regards Alan

 

I my

[Guest wrights]

I think they are standard sierra and will change side easily. Been there as you will see.

 

picture 2B/4 Visit My Website water & brake pipes

 

regards Alan

 

I my

 

Hi Alan

 

Thanks that looks like the problem then, mine are on the wrong side, ie up side down with the bleed nipple below the inlet, thats what you get when you buy the kit from RH and you do not get a CD telling you how to get it to a rolling chassia

 

next job then

cheers

Stephen

[Guest wrights]

Hi Alan

 

Thanks that looks like the problem then, mine are on the wrong side, ie up side down with the bleed nipple below the inlet, thats what you get when you buy the kit from RH and you do not get a CD telling you how to get it to a rolling chassia

 

next job then

cheers

Stephen

 

Hi Alan

 

Guess what, you can not swap them, the end of the calliper catches the support for the front wings. Going to try and bleed them with the callipers off the car.

Cheers

Stephen

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi Alan

 

Guess what, you can not swap them, the end of the calliper catches the support for the front wings. Going to try and bleed them with the callipers off the car.

Cheers

Stephen

 

Hi Stephen.

 

Warning

 

You must have disk and pads between the pistion and anville. Else the pistons will pop out.

 

If I remember you have a Superspec so no actual hands on, but they use Sierra front hubs and of course pads and calipers!

 

If your mud guard bracket is in the way I strongly suggest it is they that are in the wrong place and that the calipers are just on the wrong side. As per my picture earlier.

 

Trickey had thrown together too many marks to get that wrong.

 

Regards Alan

 

I my

[Guest wrights]

Hi Stephen.

 

Warning

 

You must have disk and pads between the pistion and anville. Else the pistons will pop out.

 

If I remember you have a Superspec so no actual hands on, but they use Sierra front hubs and of course pads and calipers!

 

If your mud guard bracket is in the way I strongly suggest it is they that are in the wrong place and that the calipers are just on the wrong side. As per my picture earlier.

 

Trickey had thrown together too many marks to get that wrong.

 

Regards Alan

 

I my

Hi Alan

 

The calipers I have are different to yours, mine look longer and have a large white button which is the problem at the lower end, when I put on the other side this hits the cycle wing bracket, if you let me have your email address I will send a photo over as I do not have the software to make photo's smaller to be able to put on this web site.

 

cheers

stephen

[Guest wrights]

Hi All

 

Any super spec owners could post or email me a photo of the front callipers on there car, mine are upside down but I can not reverse them i.e. moving to the other side due to the size of the calliper and the cycle wing brackets.

 

Cheers

Stephen

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi All

 

Any super spec owners could post or email me a photo of the front callipers on there car, mine are upside down but I can not reverse them i.e. moving to the other side due to the size of the calliper and the cycle wing brackets.

 

Cheers

Stephen

 

THIS IS THE PROBLEM

Calipers bum up because of the mudguard bracket.

Superspec owners help

[Guest erichetherington]

Looking at this I don't see that you really have any choice but to re-engineer the wing brackets. Sorry but until you do you're always going to have problems so bite the bullet and solve the problem permanently.

All part of the fun of owning a Hood

[Guest rhetorical-oracle]

Hi Stephen

 

Looking at you calipers they are different than the ones I got with my Superspec. Mine haven't got the white bit on them.

 

That said wouldn't it be easiest to just slacken of the top hat bracket in the upright and to lift it up slightly? From the picture it looks as though you've got plenty of the bracket sticking through the bottom of the upright. Wouldn't that move the cycle wing brackets up slightly giving the required clearance?

 

Phill