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Thermostatic Fan Switch, Naff Instructions !


Brian T
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I got an unexpected call from the accessory shop today, the variable thermostatic fan switch kit I ordered Thursday arrived by post today. I collected it and it wasn't quite what I had been shown in the catalogue, but pretty close.

 

Got home made a cuppa and had a look at the "Instructions".

 

I quote "There are 3 terminals on the capillary switches, the ones to use are the C terminal & the number 2 terminal." OK Einstein which wire gos to which terminal ? The wiring diagram just has a breaker and "ON/OFF CONTROL SWTCH" in line between 12v + source and the 86 terminal on the relay, do I take it that it makes no odds which "end" goes on which?

 

If I want to retain the manual override switch on the dash am I correct in thinking I run the wire and piggyback it on terminal 86 as well?

 

Sorry if it's a bit vague ,if you need anymore info let me know.

 

Cheers.

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A Switch is a switch, it either conducts or breaks the flow of electricity. Electricity don't care if it's the point or the arm of the switch that the flow is to first. So you are correct it makes no odds.

Some switches have better spark suppression due to their mechanical design, so on DC there can be a best way to use the switch, but as you will be having so few ( much less than 100 million contact changes) don't worry.

 

To get a manual switch to operate you simply put it in Parallel with the thermostat switch. Put one wire on each terminal of your Aux switch. One wire of your Aux switch goes to the C terminal on the thermostat the other wire from the Aux switch to the No 2 terminal on the thermostat. Now you have made and "OR" function the fan will run if either or both the Aux switch or the thermostat is closed ( set to conduct)

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I don't like the sound of "There are 3 terminals on the capillary switches". This sounds like you have a capillary wire to detect the temperature? If so be warned these are not suited to a car, especially a kit cat environment. the capillary tube fractures! The device may have been sold to you suitable for your car but believe me it is not, mine failed and so has every other one I have heard about.

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Hi Alan thanks for the reply.

 

That all makes sense and straightforward enough.

 

You mentioned you don't like the sound of 3 connections , I had a good look at the switch and lo and behold, "16A 250V", hmm car orientated? Think not. It has a capillary tube and bulb if that helps?

 

Not too sure if this will help but the link takes you to the specs page, the thermostat I got in the kit was the 0-120 range and as is pictured at the top with the securing nut on the tubing, obviously used for a varity of applications.

 

Glad you said about going C to 2 on the thermostat switch routed via the override switch, I was advised to run it straight to 86 , which I guess would work, but, also make the wire both sides of the switch "live" by backfeeding when in the "Off" position?

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You mentioned you don't like the sound of 3 connections , I had a good look at the switch and lo and behold, "16A 250V", hmm car orientated? Think not. It has a capillary tube and bulb if that helps?

 

 

It was the capillary tube I didn't like the sound of. The vibration set up in a car causes these to fail (leak first) then the temperature fails to cut in.

Best action is not to fit and take it back.

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